Audi vibration while driving & braking wobble shaking seized stuck brakes caliper piston a4 a5 a6 q5

[@NaptownTuner]

I put 2 brake calipers on the front of this car & no more issues over a year later.. didn’t need a booster hoses or anything else despite the calipers & slides all looking good.

[@bryanbair6508]

Another great video. Just replaced my 2011 q5 2.0 driver caliper in April 110k, after first trying cleaning and replacing pins. Giveaways are: brake smell/ hot wheel spit sizzle test/ hot metal cooling sound after driving (clicking sound). Here’s the kicker…my passenger side just started doing the same thing the other day, 6 months later, so about to swap. Luckily cheap fix. I will say, if you catch it soon enough you don’t have to swap pads/ rotor. I didn’t on my driver side and still drove fine.

[@BargainBandit]

Happy to see car videos again. Any chance you can do an auto trans fluid change. That’s my next project on my B8 A4. Not a lot of content on the subject.

[@thakery5720]

If the seals were fitted dry or with some mineral based lubrication then pistons can stick, another thing can be corrosion stopping the brake pads sliding on the carrier - check everything several times and make sure the area of the pad's backing plate that slides on the carrier is actually slightly bevelled as they make have a burr or sharp edge that 'digs in' stooping them slide - don't forget that the pads are subject to rotational forces by the disc/ The way only one pad is badly worn indicates that the pads are not sliding and stooping the caliber slide.

[@mobster2]

Would love to see the full removal and replacement of this brake job. This is really cool, video felt short. Great tho!

[@watermelonharvesting3292]

How can we reach out to you , ready to help fill the piggy bank we’ve got Audi trouble

[@tstricklin4808]

Nice tips on compressing calipers / diagnosing stuck ones 👌

[@fastboatster]

Nice, finally, a car video. Been missing car videos on this channel lately)

[@NaptownTuner]

Appreciate the input but I’m moving into full time truth and it will be at a great sacrifice for personal gain and money

[@gucsog]

I agree with the "seal theory", the piston's surface is smooth, it should work properly if its rod seal is intact. You could probably check with a dentist's mirror and a lamp.

[@ancientdiscoverys]

This vibration you felt was when you were accelerating forward without braking?

[@onedegreetech]

You mentioned you are taking your channel another direction other than working on the Audi’s and more towards self help videos. With that being said can you please recommend any other mechanics in your location that you trust that I could take my 2009 a4 b8? I appreciate your content that you have put out and will continue to support you in what ever way you take your channel. Thanks!

[@benkohout6495]

Naptown! Big fan of your videos. I got a 2011 2.0l avant. Just replaced the whole engine @ 132k miles. $5k later and it still shows p2229 code. Have you ran into this code?

[@jackc244]

That caliper looked like it was in great shape. The boot looked good too. If the piston was seized, it would not have come out that easy. Ive had seized pistons where i would have to put channel locks on them and rotate them out. There wasn't a scratch on that piston. Maybe the customers brakes very hard as you suggested, hence all the brake dust on the wheel.

[@laszloseregi0]

Exactly what I was thinking,no way that caliper was sticking. Also that inner pad wasn't even clipped in properly.

[@ollietheboy7107]

Sorry to say but you guys are both extremely wrong. My calliper was sticking for 2 years until I finally got a parking brake fault. Honestly couldn’t tell a thing was different with the car. I am extremely gentle with my brakes but my left wheel would always end up caked in brake dust. Rebuilt both my callipers and the pistons did not have a single mark on them. Not everything is always as it seems with these cars…….

[@nickmiller7067]

Hey big fan of your videos. My car is having a pretty off the wall issue. It’s a really long story. If you have time tomorrow s there anyway to reach you?

[@jack_voidskin3043]

dont let the caliper hang on the hose

[@watermelonharvesting3292]

Are you back to working cars ? You where mia for a min

[@NaptownTuner]

I invite everyone to unsubscribe if they don’t like what I decide to post, I’m not motivated by money

[@watermelonharvesting3292]

@@NaptownTuner dam it was just a question never mind then !!! Next time put down what you want to hear and what you don’t !!

[@NaptownTuner]

@@watermelonharvesting3292 I’m not necessarily even replying directly to you, I just don’t want to feel pressured to stick with one thing. It’s time for me to get involved with more serious topics.

[@watermelonharvesting3292]

@@NaptownTuner I hear you there , diversifying nothing wrong with that , naptown tuner let’s be friends ,I’m sorry please forgive me

[@bryanhager1545]

could it be the line collapsing? or deteriorating

[@NaptownTuner]

It could but I’ve personally not seen that yet. I don’t work on really old cars though or haven’t for over 10 years. It is something I should have mentioned but didn’t think about. The fluid came out as is should with just a drip bleed when I put it back together and worked on the test drive.

[@SanGanjaAWD]

If I may ask. My little brother poured water into the head cylinder of his/now my b8 2.0 like a dummy. now the car won’t start not sure how I should go about fixing this. I tried changing plugs and oil change. I have started to take the head apart. Let me know what you think or maybe something to make a post about? Thanks naptown !

[@NaptownTuner]

I have no idea, you lost me. Pouring water in the engine is always bad because liquids don’t compress and water causes rust

[@gasNmudtv]

When offroading if you get water in your intake of your engine you need to flush the oil multiple times. Change plugs . Like naptown said liquids in the engine are bad. Id start with a compression check cuz theres a big chance your engine is toast if it tried to compress water in the cylinder. Good luck

[@oleandreaswilladssen7290]

I'm not and xprt but bad/wrong fluid or badly bled brakesystem. -Also, sometimes I see drivers drive with the brakelights comes on frequently, like their double footing or just lady legs. Scary stuff as I'm a commuting biker, seen ALOT of bad drivers.

[@ErsiNur1]

Hi Over the past 4-6 weeks I’ve gotten suspension work done on my 2014 a4 2.0t Complete control arm kid (fcp euro) Rear struts (fcp euro) Intermediate steering shaft (vw audi dealer) Complete front strut assembly (strut master) And I keep getting a popping clicking sound when I get on the brakes, take hard slow turn, letting off the brakes. The shop is telling me its something to do with the front diff and that the whole transmission/diff essambly needs to be swapped out. I saw your s4 video where you said the subframe was installed poorly and that caused popping and creeking. I dont think that could be my issue since they didnt pull the subframe to do the struts and arms. I got it on a lift and pulled and pushed all the arms and couldnt hear anything. Any idea how I can diagnose this further?

[@NaptownTuner]

They could have loosened the subframe. It’s so hard to make a guess at noises, it really takes a good specialist and I’m not the best either. We did have an old British racecar mechanic that I got to learn from though, he was a steering and suspension specialist. If any shop techs or dealers see this, there is value in having specialists in dealerships.

[@gasNmudtv]

@@NaptownTuner my Granpy was a british racing mechanic. He was beyond talented with setting up a car. He had a fix for everything

[@berto371rr]

I just did my pads and rotors and now I get a damn clinking noise when I go over bumps. Any idea what that could be. I thought it was the slide pins. Replaced them. Then I put the originals back in thinking it might fix it but it didn't. If I slap the caliper it makes the noise like they're loose or the pads are loose. Any ideas on what to look for

[@admir83]

Did you ever figure out the problem? I'm experiencing similar issue.

[@EJR20]

So were the calipers seized before the brake job? Basically what I’m asking is, if a caliper is already seized and you replace the pads only (obv without knowing if the calipers are seized) will they seize again?

[@NaptownTuner]

I didn’t replace the pads only, I did caliper pads rotor on one side because I did the job for free. If the same or other side goes bad again I’ll be sure to update

[@anthonymorrical8136]

What junk yard do you prefer to get your audi parts from in Indy?

[@NaptownTuner]

My backyard, I don’t know

[@bobdeengineer7396]

Great video. I thought my caliper was seized because of the pins and/or the piston. It turned out to be the use of grease on the shims because it collected dirt and brake dusts and acted like sand paper sticking (preventing outward lateral movement) the pads against the rotor which caused heat buildup and lateral runoffs resulting in vibrations when braking. This occurred on both brakes which prompted me to question what root cause led to two rotors being warped almost at the same time. Either the brakes fluid is dirty (dirt and moisture = sticking and rusting of the pistons) or maybe since I greased the shims on both brake calipers. I replaced with new hardware (did not replace or rebuild calipers) including new greaseless shims. I don't even think the car manufacturer puts grease on the shims.

[@hanynowsky]

What do u mean by shims. Pin sliders or the back of pads?

[@bobdeengineer7396]

@@hanynowsky the consumable metal that fits between the ends of the brake pad and the caliper housing. It is where the pad slides laterally relative to the disc.

[@hanynowsky]

@@bobdeengineer7396 thanks.

[@Amathegoat]

@@bobdeengineer7396that was a great explanation, very detailed

[@hotshotfx3502]

Hey long time follower subcriber since 7k .. how can I get ahold of you.. some work for you.. I have 2014 a4 allroad .. Long crank starts on hot engine . Will start if I give it gas.. No problem on cold start.. no check engine light.. Hpfp ? Crank sensor ? Fuel pump ? Any help would be appreciated

[@NaptownTuner]

Hpfp first

[@hotshotfx3502]

Thank u.. that was my first thought too.. awesome 👌 👍

[@hotshotfx3502]

@@NaptownTuner update I replaced hpfp and no more no starts on hot engine.. And BTW feels like new car instant acceleration and mpg went up by 1.5 mpg.. crazy how u never know hpfp was dying not pushing the fuel properly..

[@kalmaar125]

i was same problem. piston stuck and wont find any problem. i put it back together and works again. its about year now and still works good.

[@CP-ok1gv]

My 2008 a4 is going through the same thing. Vibrates when I brake. Going to check the brakes sometime this month.

[@laurenciogalutan91]

Are you still running the pcv block off in ur a4 sir? Thanks

[@NaptownTuner]

No just a stock breather, I have put over 50k miles on my manual transmission k04 with a catch can cts system but it’s too complicated of a system and oil consumption is too prevalent to do experiments yourself. I’d stick with the stock setup. Remove intake manifold and Clean the valves and every 60-100k miles for best results

[@laurenciogalutan91]

@@NaptownTuner your catch can cts deletes the connection from the pcv to the intake manifold sir?

[@laurenciogalutan91]

The breather hose

[@TOLDyouSOagain]

Hey buddy... Partsgeek has original equipment upper timing covers with seal and bolts on sale for 37 bucks.. I got one and seems legit, if you stock them it may be worth checking out

[@Pod_30_0]

Thats odd, expected the piston to be marked and scored.

[@atubebuff]

If it came out like that with the air and a possible swollen seal it really should've been able to compress back in. Still, with the guide pins Ok it can only really be the piston.

[@Mexican_AAG]

I think it was a bad brake line hose

[@NaptownTuner]

I find it hard to believe a brake hose could be such an effective Check valve to hold pressure but if it happens again I’ll be sure to let everyone know what I find

[@towhidahmed5053]

Hi can anybody help me with this my audi a4 2006 2.0t when I am driving its drives fine but when I am Accelerating hard is starting juddering and car doesn't wanna go after I let go of accelerate the juddering goes ways but my car doesn't let me accelerate hard anyone knows what could be wrong

[@gasNmudtv]

Fuel injectors

[@scrwbl8]

I upgraded from stock to brembo discs and pads ... major difference imo

[@rendezvu175]

Upgraded? My stock 2013 Q5 2.0T came with OEM Brembo rotors and pads.

[@scrwbl8]

@@rendezvu175 I have 2011 A5 SB 2.0t

[@Fatihxo]

Im planning for Perforated disc from brembo and ceramic brake pads from brembo on my A4 Allroad 2010.

[@scrwbl8]

@@Fatihxo ah yes, mine are perforated too with regular pads. Love them compared to the stock ones.

[@DM-gp5mp]

That's Audi A4 2.0t

[@lovepreetsinghhanjra1997]

👍👍

[@Fatihxo]

brakes are supposed to be hot

[@NaptownTuner]

Please no cursing in my comments

[@Fatihxo]

@@NaptownTuner my fault

[@nizou1913]

Bad quelity of materiel bro

[@joelcaleb1781]

Fucking amateur hour. I am an Audi, mechanic, and certified to do brakes…. Anytime you do brace disassemble the caliper, grease and wire brush the slides, and replace if necessary if you would’ve wire, brushed, and then greased the slides and made sure they were functioning correctly and would’ve ruined your new brake pads and the rotors

[@NaptownTuner]

Please make your point without cursing next time, (in my comments)

[@tstricklin4808]

@@NaptownTuner you ask for opinions, I think Joel's a prick 🥸✌️😅JK

[@willworthoberg6818]

Sorry, I don’t understand your point…

[@redauwg911]

yes and he showed the caliper guides were functioning perfectly... Could be a caliper? Looked clean though maybe a bad hose or master... But to just wear the inner pad i was thinking guides also. Lets take the other side apart and have a look .