Engine Oil Change 2010-2015 Lexus RX350

[@Dfgzx12xyw]

One of the best oil change instructions.

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@martindouglass3248]

Good no nonsense video like always. Thx again.

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@maurice2014]

Great videos! You ever change the suspension components? (Bar end links, bushings, etc?) I also have a 3rd gen Rx. I need new trailing arm bushings but haven't seem someone video the process yet.

[@AutoFixYT]

No I haven't touched any of these yet since they're still good. I did however install two new struts in the front because one of them was leaking. That's all, other than that I only did regular fluid maintenance and front and rear brakes.

[@maurice2014]

@@AutoFixYT OK gotcha, thanks for the videos!

[@njsongwriter]

If it's 6.4 quarts don't overfill it. The oil filter cap is the part you remove with an oil filter cap wrench. It is not the drainbolt on the oil filter cap. The torque spec found on the oil filter cap is not for the drainbolt but it is for the oil filter cap. Oil filter cap = 25 N•m or 18 ft.lbs. Oil filter cap drainbolt = 10 ft.lbs. If priming the filter was necessary then it would be mentioned in the official instructions on the OEM oil filter box and it's not.

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you for all the information. You are right that the torque imprinted on the oil filter housing is for the housing, not the cap. In regards to the oil capacity, 0.1qt. won't make a difference. On most cars you have a margin of error of anywhere between a quarter and half a quart, even more on larger engines where more oil is required. As for the oil filter, it is common practice to pre-fill the oil filter if possible on any vehicle. The engine will run dry for longer if you don't. You can verify this by watching the oil pressure light on the dash and compare a dry start with a primed start.

[@stevensevek6151]

@@AutoFixYT Some manufacturers actually say not to prefill the filter. However, Caterpillar is the only one I know of. Seems anal to insist on doing it or not doing it. I use to do it but I don't any longer. There's enough residual oil still clinging to the internal parts that I doubt it makes any difference especially when you realize that it takes twice as much oil to fill the housing as it does just to fill the cap for the housing.

[@AutoFixYT]

@@stevensevek6151 Although the filter does fill up quick, you are still better off pre-filling it, for three very important reasons. 1. Oil pressure. It takes longer to build up oil pressure because the pump has to fill the oil filter first. And during that time, as you mentioned, the engine is running on just residual oil. However that very thin film isn't always enough and over time it can cause premature wear, especially around the piston rings, rod bearings, and even the cam shaft lobes. Those are crucial components that do wear over time (to some degree) even with proper lubrication. So you want to lengthen their live as much as possible. Extended dry start-ups can significantly reduce the life of them. That's why I always pre-fill my oil filters if possible, to get the oil pressure up as soon as possible in order to help prevent wear. 2. Oil capacity. If your engine takes 5 quarts, and that's where the full mark is on the dip stick, but you leave the filter empty, then if you add your 5 quarts up to the full mark you are actually going to end up with less, because some of that will be used to fill up the oil filter. And if that's about 1/2 Qt., you're essentially 1/2 qt. low to begin with. 3. Aeration. When the oil filter is new, it is obviously dry. If you pre-fill it, you are allowing the filter material to soak in oil at its own pace. You aren't forcing oil through it fast. However, when you put the filter in dry, you risk aerating the oil inside the filter. As the pump pushes the oil through the dry filter, it can create small air bubbles everywhere in the oil that comes out of the filter housing. That aerated oil is not good because the small bubbles of air create less oil pressure and also create an area for metal components to touch when they're not supposed to. Instead of a uniform coating of oil, you now have oil flowing that is interrupted by little tiny air bubbles. If you pre-fill the filter, there will be much less air in it that can cause this, therefore you significantly decrease the chances of this happening. Those are the main three reasons I always pre-fill my filters as much as possible. Sometimes you can't pre-fill them, and in those cases it is what it is. But if you can, I recommend it. I hope this helps!

[@34tripoli]

Every how many mil ? Change oil on 2015 RX 350

[@AutoFixYT]

I change it very 5k on this vehicle. You can go up to 10k as per Lexus but I wouldn't. I'd say 7500 max if you want to keep this engine around for a few hundred thousand miles.

[@maurice2014]

I'm doing 5k - 6k miles. As AutoFix says, if you want your car's engine to last up to 300k miles or more. Change it as frequently as possible.

[@roovslena]

I'll doit 6k or every 6 months...you'll be good😊

[@hrandmahmoudi147]

Thanks good job 🙏👋🙏🌹

[@AutoFixYT]

Thank you!

[@shannonotoolerose]

Thanks

[@AutoFixYT]

You're welcome

[@MontyGumby]

Open fill cap FIRST Always something missing in these types of video

[@AutoFixYT]

What's that going to do?

[@MontyGumby]

@@AutoFixYT dude think

[@AutoFixYT]

@@MontyGumby Please enlighten me and share your thoughts on this.

[@MontyGumby]

@@AutoFixYT how about a hint: pressure

[@AutoFixYT]

@MontyGumby The crankcase is not under vacuum nor pressure. There are breathers. Next time you change oil, try draining it without removing the filler cap, you'll see that there is no difference in oil flow. What you're referring to is only applicable to cooling systems, hydraulic power steering, and in some cases braking systems, but even those will drain with the master cylinder cap on. Engines, transmissions, differentials, and even transfer cases all have breathers and are never meant to operate under vacuum or pressure.