Monaco Diesel RV Charging System Upgrade Trick?

My customer uses his RV as a stationary winter home. Unfortunately, the RV is not built with a charge circuit for the chassis batteries when the unit is just plugged into shore power so his chassis batteries were always dead. There are many methods to solve this problem, the easiest being a 120vac battery tender connected to the batteries. He did not want something he would have to connenct and disconnect. A Xantrex Echo Charger could also work, but they are also prone to failure and fairly expensive. Winnebago uses a Trik-L-Start but it is also prone to failure. I chose to install a Bi-direction Isolator Relay Delay and replace the stock Isolator Relay Delay installed by Monaco. Thanks for watching!

[@rsmith5504]

I only recently came across you channel and I have to say, I’ve enjoyed each of you episodes. Interesting to see the inner workings of each type of RV you work on. Thank you for all the cool items you share with us. 👍

[@AZExpert]

Awesome, thank you!

[@WadersInAlaska]

Great video! Thanks for your efforts in doing the filming and your job at the same time! A lot of extra work!

[@AZExpert]

Thanks for watching!

[@jimlove4394]

Thank you for posting new video! Can’t wait for the next one.

[@AZExpert]

Thank you so much. I'm glad you enjoy them!

[@vkmccable]

So happy we found this video. We have a 2006 Monaco Diplomat and are having charging problems with our house battery bank. This is a great help. Thanks!

[@AZExpert]

Glad it helped!

[@rayfernandes1319]

Your videos are very informative and helpful. They have helped me repair quite a few problems with my 2005 holiday ambassador. Keep the videos coming. Thanks for saving tons of money. 😊

[@AZExpert]

Thanks Ray

[@Just___me_]

I know this video is a bit old, but hopefully you someone will see this and answer my question. Would there be a problem just plugging in a battery maintainer into the cigarette lighter and power it from a 110 outlet inside the coach.

[@philw7174]

I like this upgrade. Thanks for this video. Happy trails!

[@AZExpert]

Glad you like it!

[@rogerstruthers3799]

Thank you for the great video. This really helped by when I changed the disconnect relay to a Li-BIM from Precision Industries while installing my new Lithium battery setup .

[@AZExpert]

Glad it helped

[@CharlieM1219]

Thank you! I learn something new on every video!

[@AZExpert]

:) Thanks for watching!

[@josevaldez918]

Great video as a retired shop teacher I appreciate the way you take your time to explain everything on these coaches I own a 1997 American Eagle and I tell you. I could have used a lot of this information when I first bought it but thanks for the great information

[@AZExpert]

I appreciate that!

[@michaelm9623]

I appreciate your explanation of how this works. My 2006 HR charges both sets of batteries no matter what how we're connected, and now I know why.

[@AZExpert]

I'm glad to hear it helped. Thanks!

[@joefranco5397]

Your videos are very informative, learn something every time I watch. Keep them coming.

[@AZExpert]

Thank you so much. For every video I post I probably filmed 4....I'll keep them coming hopefully. Thanks for watching

[@rogerdconley8310]

Very good...now I gotta find one you have done on transfer switch.. mine has gone out .got new ready for a install video.... thanks for sharing.

[@AZExpert]

Thanks for watching! :)

[@johnjackson9564]

I agree with Joe , not only informative but you give logical trouble shooting. If people pay attention they can’t do anything but learn. Keep u the great video’s

[@AZExpert]

I appreciate that. Thank you!

[@Thesaltymedic36]

That Bird sounds like a better option then the factor one. Nice to charge everything off the shore or generator. Nice job.

[@AZExpert]

They are priced cheaper than a echo charger, about equal to a Trik-l-start and much cheaper than a good battery tender. The big problem is when the generator is connected to the chassis batteries, but the 120vac doesn't charge the chassis batteries. Older Beavers and Safari's did that. Thanks!

[@antoinewart5305]

@@AZExpert Same thing / problem / reality for a Monaco Knight 2000 ?

[@tombeilman5579]

The house battery disconnect on my Monaco just went out , glad I watched this , I originally thought it was the switch because it was bad also

[@AZExpert]

Glad it helped

[@hoofixrman]

Great content...im ready to bring my stuff to az for you to work on!

[@AZExpert]

Thank you for the confidence in me !

[@bearscat101]

Nice work

[@AZExpert]

Thanks and Thanks for watching! :)

[@elijahcbr6009]

bad ass, I definitely got to do this. thanks so much.

[@AZExpert]

Thanks!

[@robertthompson6958]

It amazes me the depth of experience and knowledge needed to do your job. Imagine a less informed technician who gave it the old college try and royally screwed something like this up. As always your videos are both entertaining and inspiring. I know you run your own shop and do contract work for local rv dealerships when needed. They don’t seem to call you for the easy stuff. May I ask your first name?

[@AZExpert]

Sadly, dealerships tend to ask me to do the more technical and less fun jobs yes....but sometimes I get fun easy jobs for them. Thank you so much for the compliments, I know that I cringe thinking about the repairs I did early in my career. I might even give advice in videos of things I learned the hard way. My name is James. Thanks for watching!!

[@ronniecardy]

Like your videos glad I found your site

[@AZExpert]

Thank you for watching and letting me know you enjoy them. :)

[@surferjoehangten]

Well done !!!

[@AZExpert]

Thank you

[@richclark4618]

Thank you for all of your content, appreciate your clear and concise videos! I have completed the BIRD install but for some reason I can't get the system to work whether I use shore power, generator or alternator. I am confident I have everything wired correctly so I'm wondering if my charge solenoid needs replaced or maybe I have a bad BIRD? A couple of questions for you... 1. Is there a way I can test the solenoid and BIRD to confirm they are working? 2. Is it necessary to remove the existing isolator relay delay? I unplugged it but didn't completely remove the panel. Thanks again for your content... 2004 Holiday Rambler Endeavor

[@cluuck4617]

Supplied 12vdc to the GenSet terminal to separate my batteries while using solar going down the road keeping the Fridge on 120vac. Trying not to load the alternator as much as possible. I did have to move the Fridge over to the inverter.

[@randycordes464]

That’s a awesome video thanks

[@AZExpert]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@miketomas8564]

nice use of black on red. and white on black.

[@williamdodson6681]

Excellent video I’m wanting to do the same to my RV 2003 HR Endeavor 40DST. The problem I’ve run into is my main board doesn’t have that isolator relay ! Is it possibly located somewhere else? Or does it not have one and if so can I even install a bird ?

[@russrutledge8989]

I bought one of these not long after you made the video and just got around to installing it. All looks well except it’s not charging as it’s supposed to . When I test the boost relay with the switch it works fine. However after installing the bird the coach power is not transferring is to the chassis. Would this be a faulty bird or a bad relay?

[@Inpreesme]

Thank you

[@AZExpert]

you're welcome!

[@brucebrannum8191]

Love your video. Thanks for sharing your work. This one made me wonder. I have a 2012 Winnebago, Vista, 35f. If I wanted to upgrade power what would you recommend?

[@AZExpert]

Thank you!I am not sure what you mean by upgrading power, but increasing the battery bank is the best upgrade you can do, but only if you will be dry camping.

[@christopherrasmussen8718]

I just had the charging solenoid go bad in my coach. Lost my DC. I got it back by working the relay about 20 times in a row. I had a battery go bad and it most likely dead shorted. Must of welded the relay contacts shut or pitted them bad. I like this lots. My inverter might be a bit more advanced because is will bulk and float so I think a new relay (same one) will do it. It is working but it’s really hot.

[@AZExpert]

These relays go bad often. They will get warm and hum when they are engaged. They should not be too hot to touch though. They are rated for about 200amps continuous but when used to jump start a diesel engine with dead chassis batteries they might get hit with 1000+ amps. Thanks for watching!

[@christopherrasmussen8718]

@@AZExpert Mine is hot almost too hot to touch. I am replacing it tomorrow.

[@christopherrasmussen8718]

Replaced and a new battery. Warm now so that’s probably normal. Everything is working.

[@williaml5570]

I'm addicted to your videos. What would you recommend to replace a Source Manager II with? 40' class A. Thanks!

[@jameskrivitsky9715]

It's not a hack....it's a UTILITY UPGRADE ! Yippie JwgK

[@AZExpert]

thanks :)

[@patb9375]

Thanks

[@AZExpert]

You're welcome!

[@rtaylor7727]

I totally enjoy your videos, you have taught me a lot. I'm struggling with this one. I have a 2008 Holiday Rambler diesel. There is a BIRD installed but don't know who put it in. The house battery's charge on shore power and generator only, and the chassis battery's charge on engine only. The trombetta does work with the switch on the dash, all battery's charge when the switch is engaged. The BIRD does have a wire connected to the generator. I assume its either the Isolator Relay Delay or the Bird but I'm not sure how to test them. I definitely need your help.

[@rtaylor7727]

Correction, the generator is not connected to the BIRD. The BIRD is a model #00-00362-100 for a gas rig, not sure if that matters.

[@AZExpert]

the generator is only used if there is a stand alone generator battery. It's not commonly used

[@dangrefrath9852]

What about gasoline motor coaches? I have a 2007 Winnebago Voyage with the Work Horse chassis and a 496(8.1) GM gas engine. When the unit sits for a week , or more, the chassis battery seems to "fall asleep". After starting it with the boost (coach) batteries it's fine. Is there a "sleep mode"?

[@craigdet]

I have a 2003 Fleetwood excursion, would that bird equipment work on that model charging system also?

[@NigelM18]

What if you have lifepo4 for house batteries? Can that screw up the bi directional?

[@gregguarin8788]

Do you have to connect the N series 6 volt batteries in any certain order do two of them have to be last

[@NackDSP]

Now that LiFePO4 batteries are available it makes lead acid batteries look so bad. Lead acid battery specs are so inflated that you can only use 40% of what they claim. Lead acid batteries degrade when ever they are not at 100% charge, and they self discharge rapidly. So they are perfect for starting a car several times a week if you don't mind the weight. If you can't plug in all the time, a small solar panel and charger is my preferred solution to keeping my lead acid batteries working. Just a few watt panel thrown on the dash and plugged into the cigarette lighter outlet can solve the problem. Harbor Freight is your friend here.

[@RorySeldon]

Great video! I think I will tackle this upgrade. My only question is at 9:18 you talk about the ignition wire. It is black coming from the BIRD unit, but at the battery connection, it is blue. Is that only because you coupled a fuse with it or is there a connection I am missing? Can't see where they connect. Also, is the fuse recommended? Thanks again for a great video!

[@AZExpert]

Likely, because I only had black wire to use. RVs play fast and loose with wire colors on circuits so I've become numb to color matching.

[@elvarodriguez9396]

I have a question 1999 Monaco dynasty it has 4 6 volt batteries and a large battery this morning it did not want to start the engine only the generator starts my question the 4 small batteries have to do with starting the engine

[@paulk303]

What will make the dash lights go off on the diplomat Monaco motorhome

[@PhilipZurcher]

Great video. Do 2007 CC's have bi-directional charging? I have just bought a 2007 CC Affinity. It has been sitting for several months and could not get enough of a jump charge to start the engine or the generator. I tried with several jump boxes and then a normal jump from a vehicle. No luck. Before I buy new batteries I will hook up normal charger with a portable generator so I have a charge that is constant and longstanding and retry.

[@AZExpert]

That is a great question. I do my best to stay out of the middle basement compartment of Country Coaches. I do not remember seeing any BIRD, but they may have a Xantrex Echo charger which does the same thing.

[@terrysweat4204]

What if you have voltage in the chassis battery but no light or anything when turning the ignition???

[@Yukonjackman1]

I use a solar panel and charge control on my batteries in storage. 12 volt panel

[@AZExpert]

good idea

[@user-ow7fg6ir4l]

Does a 2017 Endeavour 40G have this in it already?

[@X0seph0X]

Would you know if the gas 2013 manaco are the same and only charge one way?

[@melvineisele183]

Thank you for this excellent video. It is very easy to follow. I have installed the BIRD following your directions. I have a 2007 Holliday Rambler Endeavor that I purchased a little over a year ago and still trying to work out all the bugs. The Bird has not solved my problem with charging the chassis batteries. With the OEM Isolator Relay, the only time I have 12 volts coming from the power boost switch was when the engine was running, then there was 12 volts on the (purple) lead all the time, power boost switch on and off. With the Bird installed, the most voltage I get is 3.45 on the power boost switch on and off, it is constant. Is this a complication with the solenoid in the battery bay? Do I have another relay malfunctioning or a fuse blown? Last question, this is not necessary, but could be helpful. If I run a lead to the BIRD from the generator, will that complicate things when the engine is operating? There are times we operate the generator while driving. I will really appreciate any help you can give me.

[@AZExpert]

you don't have a generator battery(third battery) so that won't do anything. the bird sends sensing voltage which is what you are likely measuring. Just make sure you have a ground, full time house power, full time chassis power, and a connection back to the solenoid not the switch.

[@melvineisele183]

I believe I have installed BIRD as you have in this video. The BIRD ground post is connected to the panel ground. The BIRD Ignition post is connected to the Battery Chassis post on the panel. The BIRD coach bat post is connected to the house non switched post on the panel. I have checked out the purple wire to the solenoid, there is not a problem with it. I can hear the solenoid activating when I attach a 12 V to the solenoid. I also tested the purple wire with 12 V connection and the solenoid is activated from the front panel. I left the BIRD on overnight on show power. The house batteries have 15.07 V. I'm nervous about that. I will be glad to send you a picture of the connections if that will help. I have disconnected the BIRD. The coach is now set up as original. I think there was a problem before the BIRD was installed. You mention in the video @5:45, that the test light is now on (with the bat boost switch on). My light does not light up. There is 15.07 mv current on the post where the purple wire connects to the 12 post connector. Is there a relay or a fuse I'm missing somewhere that would send 12 V to that lead? Could it be a faulty switch? I just looking for options. I really appreciate any help you can give me.

[@melvineisele183]

Sorry to bother you. I have found the fuse and please don't ask me how many times I read the back of the panel cover looking for a fuse and didn't see that line. Installed a new fuse. The BIRD is reconnected. We will see now what happens.

[@bradeisenhauer6294]

@@melvineisele183 what fuse? I have same issues with install on 2006 Monaco cayman. And is it working correctly now?

[@johnalbury3320]

@@bradeisenhauer6294 There is a 5 amp fuse for the Boost Switch. The way Melvin describes it. It must have been blown and he replaced it and is working now.

[@pammcneil7051]

needing help with my monaco executive 12 volt system that is not working

[@larrydobbe980]

Thank you. Does this work if house batteries are switched to Lithium?

[@AZExpert]

Yes it does, but you likely will need a smart relay to protect the chassis alternator as lithium batteries can accept a lot of charging amps when depleted.

[@larrydobbe980]

A video on modern day application of Lithium in an older luxury coach would be good. @@AZExpert

[@Richard.Hybels]

I use a Trik L Start deal that keeps chassis batts charged. Cost $60. Am I wrong?

[@hakunamatataadventurebus5944]

What’s with the rubber gloves?

[@user-ur5cq5bc9n]

Interesting, but I'm not sure thats still my problem. My 08 HR Ambassador owners manual says that with generator running and invertor on, it should charge my chassis batteries. House charge when on shore pwr and chassis charge when engine running, but chassis doesn't show charging when generator is running, but house do. Where is my problem? Boost switch worked with generator running to jump chassis and get engine running. Do you have a link to the "BIRD" you use?

[@DawnNLN-ee2kh]

Put a trickle charger on the starting batteries while parked ! A simple $25.00 motorcycle trickle charger works great to keep them topped off! Simple solution!

[@AZExpert]

Yes. That was a solution I offered, but he did not want to connect and disconnect and have cords hanging out of compartments. I'm with you and would install a battery tender though a nicer quality one should be 50 to 85. Thanks

[@jennyengland2896]

How to fix a step cover that does not work on a 2006 Monaco.

[@Tom-S-]

Did you remember to remove the golf tee from under the switch?? If not, would that of messed with the test you did at the end??

[@AZExpert]

absolutely. Thank you!

[@beemor2]

I had a Freightliner dealership put new batteries on my Winnebago Vectra. I keep it plugged in, but last time I tried to start the motor the batteries were dead. Should I just get the battery tender for the chassis batteries, or have the dealership look at it and see why the chassis batteries are not charging?

[@beemor2]

By the way, I watch a lot of videos on repairing just about anything and you are one of the smartest guys I’ve seen. I wish I could have you do all of the work on my coach.

[@AZExpert]

yes a battery tender is a very good idea, Tiffin came to that conclusion way back in 2006 or so and I'm still surprised no other manufacture followed them.

[@thedisneytribe8687]

Were u are located at😊

[@805videogroup5]

just WOW !!, i have an 03 Monaco Cheetah, 330 cat, inverter....having BATTERY TROUBLES. Where in AZ are you ?

[@AZExpert]

The valley

[@mikesavage9499]

I did this upgrade and it worked great for a couple of weeks. Now there is no charge going to the chassis batteries when on shore power. I did unplug the IRD. Should I have unbolted it from the panel too? I don't know if the new BIRD failed or what else to test. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

[@mikesavage9499]

Update: The upgrade is still working great! The problem I had came down to two bad chassis batteries. Interstate rep took them to the factory and had them tested then replaced them under warranty. One was 17 months old and the other was 13 months old.

[@christopherrasmussen8718]

I ground off all the powered coat on my battery tray and painted it with POR 15 and a enamel top coat.

[@AZExpert]

I can't explain how unimpressed with "powder coats" I have become after working on RVs. I think the movement to lithium batteries will solve most of the tray issues, though trays will not be needed with those.

[@christopherrasmussen8718]

@@AZExpert I put in a boatload of lithium battries and a big inverter in my coach, Run that at 48 volts. Find out I still need 12 volts for the relays to make the bus work so I put 6 12 volt AGMs in back where the 8Ds used to live and I had to put in a 110 volt DC charger to make up for the loss of the old 12 volt inverter.

[@AZExpert]

Thats unfortunate. What size batteries are the lithium?

[@christopherrasmussen8718]

@@AZExpert Battle Born 100ah

[@ToddM452]

Ok James so what does the Gen terminal do if it was being used?

[@AZExpert]

if there was a stand alone generator starting battery, only common on bus conversions.

[@prestonjones4481]

Where do you work? Need some work on my battery issues on my 2001 holiday rambler endeavor

[@AZExpert]

I am based out of mesa, AZ

[@antonygilbert9695]

Hey ! We're from Quebec and Having a Monaco Cayman XL 2007 with some issues... We are going down to Florida in January for a month or two, would there be any chance to meet you somewhere :) ?

[@AZExpert]

I live on the opposite side of the country in Arizona

[@antonygilbert9695]

@@AZExpert ohhhhhhhh... wish we could vave met you :). Thanks for all your good videos, just made this modification, ... Cheers !

[@antonygilbert9695]

@@AZExpert By the way, would you recommend installing a platform to bring a 800lbs motorcycle in the back of a Cayman XL 34 feet ? The way it's made underneath is not to welcoming for such installation first view.... and one last thing... where to find good rubbers for slide-outs? thanks in advance :)

[@jimenglish368]

Just installed a bird on my Monaco 2008 replace the house batteries and recently replaced The relay in the battery bay don’t know if it’s a continuous duty though how do I tell and also the board upfront (purple wire )is only sending 3.3 V to the relay you think that’s correct

[@AZExpert]

it sends out sense voltage to the solenoid, are you checking with the solenoid control hooked up or disconnected

[@KevinCoop1]

I have an issue with my 2014 Thor Windsport. No shore power and batteries disconnected, chassis battery went dead in few days, Emergency start would not work. Jumped it. No shore power with batteries in use mode, coach batteries dead in few days, engine started right up. Question: I went under hood to open isolator panel, and it has a flat steel plate two cam clips that you pull out on the face. Since I do not know how it works inside I can not figure out how to get the cover off. The clips don't twist and the cover only got slightly loose. Any suggestion would be great. Respectfully, Kevin

[@AZExpert]

if they are black plastic square knobs like a refrigerator vent doo, just twist 90 degrees, and pull out. if they are pull down just pop the handles up and pull out, usually these are into rubber well nuts and get hung up

[@KevinCoop1]

AZ Expert Not like fridg square. They are like 3/4" arm that pivots at base with a cam action. Handle down to face plate is latched. Pull until straight out to unlatch. I think you are saying pull harder outward.

[@TimothyMichaels]

Looks like I'm going to need a lot of work done.

[@AZExpert]

You can do it!

[@Fireguy1962]

Late to the party! Can you drive your coach and have the generator running ( to have the ac units cooling the coach) and not have a problem with the BIRD?

[@AZExpert]

It will work fine. Most diesel are already wired that way. Thanks

[@donkisler3538]

Sorry I am having problems with my house batteries so I was embarrassed and deleted my post. I misunderstood the video as I do not have problems with chassis batteries. Thank you for impressive response time. I am still trying to figure out the drain on my 400 amp hours of Battleborn house batteries. I have .4 drain when all is turned off according to my BMS meter on my MSH 3000 Magnum inverter monitor system. About two years ago I changed to a Samsung residential refrigerator and I and drain house batteries in one day now. According to all I have researched it should last for several days without any charge especially while driving. I am trying to research things so I can isolate the problem in order to ask intelligent questions. If I can isolate my issues and ask intelligent questions I would be willing to pay you for your consulting time but I am not there yet. I have 400 AH Battleborn batteries and my phantom drain is .4 AH I should be able to last for 1000 hours or 41.66 days. That is not my experience as they are shutdown and in safe mode in less than a month. I did not turn off the cutoff switch by accident and it pointed out my batteries were not lasting like they should with all systems off, i.e. fridge off, satellite dish unplugged, tv unplugged etc. Thanks for responding. Don.

[@AZExpert]

small drains can be difficult to find usually down to pulling fuses and cables until its gone, sometimes it's the step with the light on cause the switch is on or the door is open

[@BigFern9876]

Hello guys. I have the exact issue and after some research I believe what is going on is the chassis batteries are getting charged with the lithium. The circuitry thinks the house batteries (Lithium) are being charged do to the higher voltage 13.6vdc and engages the solenoid/relay?!?!? Seems logical…….. James, can you chime in with your Jedi knowledge please?

[@falcon7350]

at 3:00 that is called a bear relay and there 180 to160$ new . there not made to be on 100%of the time and get very very hot, there not very good in cold weather

[@AZExpert]

thanks

[@TP-pu1hw]

You used the INTELLITEC 0000839000 B.I.R.D but didn’t use the Genset connector. Could you have just used the INTELLITEC 0000362100 B.I.R.D which doesn’t have that connector or is there some other difference between those two BIRDs?

[@bradeisenhauer6294]

Did everything but no power at the pin on board!? Replaced rear solenoid and front solenoid. Have power to front solenoid 8mm bolt that is purple wire that feeds switch but only getting 3.3 volts at rear solenoid and when switch is pushed only goes to 5.04 volts. And does not activate rear solenoid. Works with engine running and generator running but not plugged in. What is causing this problem?

[@bradeisenhauer6294]

And I have 2006 Monaco cayman

[@brucegordon3566]

2006 founders tepid ME BUT IS THIS FOR CHARGIN THE house batteries charged when driving only

[@AZExpert]

Yeah thanks

[@qwiklok]

Good teaching. Here is a toughie. The furnace max voltage allowed is 13.5V. When charging either by shore or genset, it is 14.4-=14.8V by design and required for FLA batteries to fully charge. Alternators charge at 13.8-14.2V. This higher voltage causes an overspeed condition on the 13.5V max Suburban furnace, vibration, noise etc. Called Suburban tech. Said do not ever run the furnace over 13.5v. Or can damage the board. Well, hang on a second - 2 million RV's and cant use it when shore or genset is working - what the heck? YUP, that is the bottom line he said. No one has ever heard of this condition. And when driving, you would think the alternator would charge the house by default / design. I mean, 330HP and no charge - come on . . . . . What am i missing here?

[@brucegordon3566]

And when on shore plugged in instead of small trickle charge

[@AZExpert]

Thanks

[@saladbreath607]

One day there will be no wires. Not in my lifetime 😢

[@patrick7998]

With all due respect, and I do mean that, I disagree with your installation instructions. The ignition lead that you are connecting to chassis battery post should be connected to a switched ignition circuit. The way you have it wired the BIRD thinks the ignition is always on. With the ignition always on you’re bypassing the safety circuitry that prevents the coach load from drawing down the chassis battery to 12v instead of 12.6v before the relay opens. It matters because 12v is a 25% charged state and 12.6v is over a 90% charged state. If there is any failure there is no safety drop out to save your chassis batteries ability to start the coach. I’m sure there are other potential issues but without understanding the actual functions and thresholds within the BIRD’S microprocessor, it’s hard to determine any additional electrical detriments. I do not have 100% visibility to all circuitry inherent to this system but after reviewing the schematics provided by intelletec and doing some testing myself I’ve concluded that the BIRD will not function properly if wired in the manner you’ve shown us in your video. I hold a degree in electronic engineering so I have a relatively good grasp on the fundamentals at play here but please correct me if I’m mistaken and I will certainly accept accountability for my error.

[@tobydarkins9419]

I think the advantage of connecting it to the unswitched chassis battery is so that the bird can charge the chassis battery while it is plugged in to shore power. If you had to have the ignition on to activate the BRD, this would negate/eliminate the benefit of shoreline charging of the chassis battery. In his description of how the BRD functions, if the voltage is too low on either side (chassis or house), it will not allow that the two battery sources to be connected through the booster connect solenoid in the battery compartment.

[@patrick7998]

Hi Toby - I was initially thinking along those lines as well when I was figuring out exactly what was happening in this little black box. Since I did not have visibility into the logic that effects the functionality of the BIRD I did some testing with the various connection arrangements. After speaking to the technician that Intellitec has contracted, it turns out that my assumptions and findings were correct. My conclusions are based on the information I received from Intellitec as well as my own bench testing. Keep in mind that some of the parameters given by the manufacturer are not exact however. What I mean by that is if we assume that my digital multimeter is accurate (which it most likely is) the relay delay (BIRD) is not operating at the precise voltages specified by the manufacturer. They might say that the relay opens at 12vdc and it actually opens at 12.2vdc for example. I’m not sure why there is a slight difference but most electronics that I’ve worked with are precise and I have to attribute it to variations within the charging source, I’m just not sure without understand more about the units logic. Seeing these variations however doesn’t change much in terms of the BIRD’s functionality. For the sake of simplicity let’s just assume that I found the BIRD’s operating voltages to be “within tolerance”. That said, the “ignition” connection on the BIRD only switches the logic gate between a 12vdc and a 12.6vdc logical switch which opens the relay and disconnects the battery banks. If the ignition is on and the ignition circuit registers more than approximately 13.1vdc, the relay is closed and the battery banks are paralleled. If the ignition circuit is on but the BIRD detects the ignition circuit is at or below approximately 12vdc the relay opens to isolate the banks for protection. This happens only when the ignition is on. This is a very important aspect of the functionality because as the engineer explained, the BIRD must see voltage on the ignition port (ignition on) to tell the system that the alternator is charging the chassis batteries. If the alternator is charging and the ignition circuit is reading 12vdc or below you’ve either got a big load on the alternator or you’ve got another problem with one of the systems or loads. If the BIRD thinks the alternator is charging (ignition on) and it’s actually not charging because we connected to an unswitched chassis battery source, we run the risk of discharging our chassis battery to 12vdc or a 25% charged state. In this scenario without the alternator charging but the BIRD thinking it is charging we run the real risk of the chassis batteries being discharged to the point of not being able to start the engine if the coach batteries become discharged for whatever reason. Since the alternator is not charging (but the BIRD thinks we are) we are actually discharging the chassis battery without any means of charging it back up. A 25% state of charge (SOC) is going to leave you in a situation where you cannot start your coach. If the ignition is off however (and the BIRD’s ignition connection is hooked up to a switched chassis circuit) the logic will open the relay when the chassis battery is at 12.6vdc which leaves you with a 90% SOC which is enough to start your engine. If you have a diesel you’re going to need that full SOC to get your engine started, but of course there are other factors at play when we’re discussing forces that impact engine starting resistance. In any case by having an “always on” state of ignition by connecting the BIRD’s ignition connector to an unswitched chassis battery source the system assumes that the engine is running and the alternator is charging. Since this isn’t actually the case your chassis batteries could be run down to a 25% SOC leaving you with discharged chassis batteries. The installation instructions explain all of this so I would be sure to connect that ignition connector to a SWITCHED ignition source or you may run into problems down the road when your coach batteries deteriorate. At least this is the way that Intellitec’s BIRD is designed. I welcome any intelligent dialog as I am an electronic engineer and really enjoy understanding these systems. Thanks

[@ronmoore3987]

TRUCK BED COATING Fer that tray..........

[@ToddM452]

Sorry and as much as I like your videos it’s not your call to only put (1) of the plastic wing nuts back on that door panel. There is a gasket seal around that door as you have to know and to get a good perimeter seal one won’t do it. I wouldn’t like a tech leaving two of my three off. Just sayin.

[@gilguzman8359]

He’s very confusing.

[@Lasertrac]

Your explanation of what he wouldn't work with as a solution typifies the attitude of Canadians in general and why they keep electing the communist Justin Castro.

[@AmmoMaster]

I have a 03 Bounder 39Z DP, my alternator won't charge my House batteries but does charge Coach/Start batteries... Generator or 50 amp plug wont charge Coach/Start batteries but does charge House batteries. I changed the solenoid, have all good batteries... not getting 12 v to solenoid trigger post, opened Battery Control Box, traced wires to board inside box, you mentioned a fuse you found bad for Batt switch at driver's seat. I can't find it... I am assuming its in the Batt Control Box but don't see it labeled. Ever mess with Bounder like mine? I am about to just buy the BIRD anyways as it should fix the charging issues, although would like BATT switch to work in an emergency no start situation where Coach Batts are dead.

[@AmmoMaster]

Another question... I see you connected Chassis/Start batteries to Ignition on the BIRD, thinking BIRD wants ignition Hot verse Batt Hot, I assume it doesn't matter???