Bad Wiring, Bad Grounding, TERRIBLE Quality Solder - 1983 Fender Squier Japanese Precision Bass

Otherwise a GREAT guitar! This is a 1983 FugiGen Gakki made Fender Squier P-Bass. One of the first Fender guitars built in Japan! SUPER LIGHT body, great neck, good pickups, just bad wiring with terrible solder and non-existent string grounding. I don't believe this wiring is factory original. Looks like it's been tampered with some over the years.
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[@TheGuitologist]

Before I get 1000 comments about it...yes, I asked him if the cable was known good. He tried multiple cables. And another bass worked on the amp. Sorry, I should have stated that in the video.

[@michaelreis8266]

Did you ask him about the pube, was the pube good?? LoL!

[@TheGuitologist]

I did not inquire about the pube. I'm sure CNN will cover the presence of this pube in great detail and on a daily basis over the course of the next 18 months or so.

[@MyButtsBeenWiped]

The Guitologist Oh! You Know It !

[@adamimberti6948]

Hijacking the top comment to find out the name of the song that begins at 12:20. Cheers.

[@seanira1452]

i know Im asking randomly but does anyone know of a tool to log back into an instagram account? I stupidly forgot my account password. I love any tips you can give me

[@smasica]

Just a thought: On those three leads soldered to the pot, you might try twisting all three together and soldering a short pigtail to it. Then put some shrink tubing over that joint. Now solder the pigtail to the pot. That way, you have one wire instead of trying to wrestle three onto the pot body. Less hazard to overheating the pot.

[@TheMasonator777]

I do that a lot… it doesn’t look as “perfect” as you might want, but it can be made to look quite neat. And it does cut down on the heat you use.

[@MikeGervasi]

Lead free for sure. It has the strangest smell when heated and melts at a higher temp. Horrible strength as well. Lead for life!

[@sidneysnottley6414]

Nice to see you working on a guitar - Mixing it up a bit. Great vid as always.

[@edgararias6601]

Hey Brad. I've been following your channel for around a year. I don't know enough about electronics to get into an amp and fix anything, but guitars and basses I can do! For this reason I found this video very cool and informative on good soldering techniques and best practices overall. Great repair. Thank you!

[@TheGuitologist]

Glad you dug it, Edgar. Thanks for watching.

[@casperboo5465]

Great fix brad, and sounded nice, Cheers

[@stevenmgyori3826]

Nice subject, helpful to many! Thanks for sharing brother!

[@Zelleram55]

Good tip checking ground wire under bridge. I have experienced that on a Teisco too.

[@peterjosvai9804]

which in reality means only checking the resistance (ohms) between the bridge and the jack's ground... I mean, if you have an ohm meter at hand, it'll take 10 seconds... cause if it is very close to zero, it's fine...

[@spotmfd9431]

Great video. My soldering needed some help and great advice about the ground wire into the screw hole.

[@nolangoldenberg8843]

Just the video I was looking for. Thanks a bunch!

[@WarrenPostma]

This was a really useful video for me. Thank you.

[@MyButtsBeenWiped]

Man ! That was some aweful solder ! Great Show, Brad !

[@jeffbeckfreak54]

Nice work Brad!

[@dougthetechguy5005]

The ground wire at the bridge I usually put some solder on it so it retains it's shape and does not become smashed and frayed like that plus always sand or scuff the bottom of the bridge really well around where that ground wire makes contact.

[@fuchsia5899]

Good pointers.

[@kayvtv]

instructional video with funny bits, SUBSCRIBED!

[@mikaso]

Pretty sure that brass bottom plates (underneath the pickups) are turned wrongside up here. The brass should be up, thus touching, and grounding, the magnet polepieces. Fender customshop pickups has this design. Thanks!

[@florisbackx1744]

Bill and Ted's Most excellent adventures, Instant thumbs up!!!!

[@robertcalkjr.8325]

Good job, Brad. Thanks!

[@christosfragias592]

Thanks, very informative. At 7:08, when you insert the bridge ground wire into the screw whole, does that help to further reduce poor ground buzzing? Separately, would the screw threads tear through the ground wire?

[@Lex52]

Hi Brad That cold solderblob wasn't half as bad as the pubic hair at 4:29ish! Eughhh you even touched it with your finger while resoldering!!!

[@TheGuitologist]

I thought my finger tasted funny after that.

[@freepress8451]

Hahahaha

[@charmelink]

that pubic hair wasn’t half as bad as his disgusting nails

[@charmelink]

I know, I used to play classic guitar with long fingernails but still they were disgusting on me too!

[@runningwithscissors0911]

VERY helpful talk-through of a wiring inspection. Never saw anyone re-flow the solder (I'm more familiar with the joint being disconnected, the solder being sucked off or absorbed with a solder wick and the joint being re-soldered) ~ good to know/learn.

[@nevillegoddard4966]

@Running with Scissors Really it's always better to remove as much of the old solder as possible, & then resolder the whole thing again. Especially if the original solder is the lead free type. But also if the solder is very old. Even if it's not lead free or old, adding additional flux paste would help.

[@hanten10]

Hello sir may i ask you what is the problem with my guitar when I touch the bridge pickup it become noisy same as your video at the beginning. I watch this video until the end but i didn't see you repair anything than resolder all stuff so is that the way to fix it?

[@Atheist81]

Very helpful info Thanks!

[@CasaDeJoker]

I also noticed your “late 80’s early to mid 90’s” diamond cluster ring LOL. I love it! They dont make em like that anymore so yeah! Awesome dude! 💎 💍

Cool! My first brand new bass was a 1983 MIJ Squier Jazz. Soooooo wish I still had it.

[@brCharlieNagy]

Great video thanks. So the black plate of the pickup should be grounded, too, right ?

[@nicolamontoro]

Great video

[@steventsunami9506]

I have two 83 squire strats that are my favorites. They are super heavy because of the Sen Ash bodies. I guess the bass bodies were different. I’ve played the piss out of those guitars and the metal won’t corrode and the necks are super stable.

[@malcolmhardwick4258]

Steven Tsunami they used sen ash and some of it is quite light actually. And Alder and basswood were also used. Great guitars from a great guitar era ☺

[@gerthalberg9735]

Since you are the guitologist - it’s nice to se you working on a guitar 🤓

[@bozhidarrachev9879]

r/woosh

[@mudsharkable]

It appears to me that the discolored flakey solder was lead free solder done with an iron not hot enough for the job. If lead free was used would it not be a good idea to completely remove the old solder (suck and wick) and re-solder with regular old tin/lead solder rather than just trying to flow the two incompatible alloys together?

[@JohnShalamskas]

That's what I was thinking as well, when you mix good solder with bad , or 2 different types of solder, it doesn't really fix the problem.

[@marekhalmo2813]

@10:17 turns shiny/glossy blob (kinda big) in to mate cold solder joint.. why did you not add flux? Or change the solder completely?

[@lroy730]

Back in the 90's I worked on many MIJ Fender's . If their un-touched from the factory the electronics are ok. When set up correct they are some of the best playing Strats ever.

[@audiotechlabs4650]

My 1990 Squire from Japan, did not come with those quality pickups. The pickguard of a USA made P bass will not fit these Japanese Squires. I know, I tried. I had to make one, no big deal. Mine has since been heavily modded. They are light. I love mine. Short scale. Great video! Thanxz

[@christosfragias592]

Thanks Brad. A really informative video. At 7:11 you mention to strip the ground wire further, only to expose the wire itself underneath the bridge, and place part of the ground wire in one of the screw holes. Question! If you did not strip back the wire, and the bridge rested on part of the black wiring insulation, can that cause a disruption to the grounding? Cheers.

[@zatouroff]

He just wanted to guarantee it's touching the bridge. Also you don't need to squeeze wire's plastic cover between the bridge and body itself.

[@glenwhatley4125]

For a really solid connection throughout including the buried coil wires, a bit of flux to clean the connecting or addl solder with flux would be recommended.

[@danoconnor618]

Nice one Brad.

[@geofixated]

Very nice video. I suggest investing in some solder wick rolls.

[@CrimFerret]

The solder on that one pot just flowed and looked so much better with the addition of some decent solder with the flux in it. I've used lead free solder but it generally doesn't flow as well and takes higher temps. I'll stick with lead solder for my own projects.

[@gwyzagain]

The problem was obviously the ground-to-string mount, but if you look at the paint under that mount, you'll clearly see where the wire was originally "fanned open" . Somewhere along the line someone pulled on that wire and it wound up pulled back into that groove you found it in, where it was not making a connection with the metal mount. All you had to do was place it back in a "fanned open" manner in the same location where the paint showed it originally was. By twisting it "round" and placing it in a screw hole, you basically created a "wedge" under that mount. thereby not allowing it to seat squarely on the guitar. (Not good). Most guitars have their grounds done in exactly that same "fanned" manner. You could have even _lightly_ soldered it in a "fan shape" and then place it in that same paint marked location. Also, the solder on the pickups was fine the way it was. You took a risk of melting the insulation on the pickup coil wire itself. That work needs to be done with a cooler soldering iron than you were using. (But you did good with it). I suppose it was ok to re-solder the pot leads and grounds, especially that you reported it "turned to dust" (it was probably originally over-heated). However, if you're going to apply heat to an old "Film" capacitor, it's a good idea to just go ahead and replace it; preferably with an "Orange Drop." In any event, for the record, I have no doubt your _ONLY REAL_ problem causing that loud hum was that loose ground wire to the string mount.

[@nevillegoddard4966]

@gwyzagain Yeah I was looking at the twisted wire end too, & wondering if it may have formed a bit of a lump that may have interfered with the metalwork.

[@wyattrydlewski9130]

When you finished, were the pickup Poles still buzzing when you touched them?

[@darikdatta]

Moar flux! Part of the reason that old solder was acting so weird is it was all oxidized. Try putting a dab of paste flux on old solder before you reflow it, it'll behave a lot better.

[@InTheSh8]

Hey man! I love your channel! I'd like a recommendation! I wanna buy an amp for METAL! (Yes, screw me). I have in mind a EVH 5150 LBX III or a 333 Bugera Infinium. Did you ever get in touch with the Bugera's? I don't want an amp where I have to plug in a tube screamer to make it tighter!

[@timka880057]

I've got the same bass guitar, I've had it since 87 I think. I don't know the actual year it was made. I bought it second hand. It's black like that but has the black with white trim pick guard. What do you think of the Fender Squire Brad ?

[@mikedesensi3007]

the wire wrapped around the bobbin material of the pickup is a common practice, it decreases the chance of a burn through and give a better positive base to solder to. the laquer burns off easy when heat and solder is applied

[@fongy200]

That Wilkinson bridge isn't stock Brad i also managed to get a quick glance at the digits on the pits i don't think it's 80's unless the customer has overhauled the electrics in part or completely.

[@fogkapitany414]

Hey there! I hope you can help me. A few days ago i got my first bass which had a buzzing noise all the time, it only stopped when i touched the metal part of the jack cable. Many people suggested me to take off the bridge and put the ground wire in one of the screw hole and fixate it with the screw - just like in your video - and it was FIXED! Well, for 3 days... today, it started the same buzzing sound randomly, out of nowhere. What do you think what should i do? Im a total beginner with my first bass. Maybe the ground wire came out somehow? Sounds weird, but im not sure if i should take it apart again..

[@nevillegoddard4966]

@Fog Kapitani It still sounds like there's an earthing problem mate. Have you tried another guitar-amp lead?

[@michaelreis8266]

4:29 Huge Pube Alert

[@74dartman13]

Lol...hopefully it was just a dog hair! 😂🐶

[@74dartman13]

@ lmao!😂

[@michaelreis8266]

Johnny Cab - My Pube Screamer gives me great Tone!

[@74dartman13]

@@johnnycab8986 😂

[@fuchsia5899]

Ewww ewwwwww

[@neoxavierdark-skullbone-br5367]

Nice bass really. Just some poor, lazy workmanship. Nothing you can’t fix though. Also, you’re right. I’ve also noticed many of those P-basses are really light. Man those are some good lookin’ finger picks! They 👀 look to be gettin’ full length.

[@fransvenrooy4760]

I have a guitar which makes a buzzing sound when I touch the plastic pick guard!! Very strange!! When I rub my pinky against the guard it makes a kind of ground problem sound but it's just the plastic. And on one element setting it is quiet. My other one (a SG with humbuckers doesn't have this problem at all. What could be wrong with this(Strat like) guitar???

[@nevillegoddard4966]

@franz venrooy - If the guitar notes are still getting to your amp it's gonna be earthing. Most problems with guitars are earthing problems. The plastic you speak of must have metal in it somehow, in some way, or be conductive plastic (?).

[@stevehogan8829]

That place produced such great guitars back in that era that it's hard to believe that was factory soldering. Maybe, but doesn't fit with what I've seen on guitars from that period and plant. Thanks Brad.

[@erikthorsen328]

Brad, you have a mix of good and bad soldering practices and wish to offer some advise. It is never a good idea to just reflow solder. What makes the solder work when first applied is the flux contained in the core of the solder. As you heat the connection point first and then apply the solder the flux cleans the connection and evaporates away leaving that sticky residue. When you reflow the connection you are soldering without the flux and you end up getting those joints you produced when working on the pickups. As I have an extensive background in electronics repair I have learned that hand solder suckers don't work very well. I use solder wick (get the kind that has built-in flux) as it removes all the old solder and leaves a clean surface to resolder to. I also have a bottle of liquid flux so I can apply a little extra when soldering to large surfaces which heat slowly and tend to be harder to get a good connection to. I also get good results with my vacuum solder sucker which allows me to move the tip around the work surface to get it all. I try to produce solder joints that look and work by taking the extra time and steps to let the tools and material work for you.

[@phillipbainbridge9107]

We're all so proud of you! Here's a pat on the back and thanks for the "advise".

[@nevillegoddard4966]

@Erik Thorsen Brad would have used 6 inches of solder wick on that job. The plunger-type solder suckers work just fine to remove the majority, if not all the solder. I guess the desolder braid is good if you want the surfaces super flat, but actually I can't remember the last time I used solder wick! Plus it's so easy to overheat pcb tracks & lift them with the wick. - Not that there's a pcb in the guitar of course. I use a larger plunger called a 'soldapullit' that works real well. I can even get replacement teflon tips for it!

[@ramonlorenzovaldavia1306]

Just the opposite happens to me, when I touch a metal part the noise disappears almost completely... Please, can someone guide me on this?

[@nevillegoddard4966]

@Ramon Lorenzo Valdavia - Still sounds like some kind of bad earth-related problem mate!

[@jamespodgurski1285]

I remember running across some Asian guitars that had paraffin in the shielded cables that really screwed with the solder joints if you heated them up. I'm wondering if that was part of the issue because it really messed with the solder to paraffin.

[@freepress8451]

Always wondered why they didn't tightly twist and tin the wire ends, don't think I have see one neat soldered joint without frayed strands

[@gurbina]

Thanks! for me the ground problem was because a bad ground connection from the bridge.

[@hansxiaomeng4741]

what is the classical piece at 0:56

[@Eddy63]

What's that song at the end of your vids ? Good vid by the way ... Appreciated ...

[@TheGuitologist]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/pmW3qIJ9idJ5e7M

[@lostinlymbo13]

Hey, I have a similar problem with a guitar with EMG 81/85. I even replaced all the hardware but the pickups and still have that hum when I'm not touching a knob, or the input jack. Or even touching the guitar cable at the amp input will make the hum stop. It's been like this for years and I've done everything I can imagine, even copper tape in every cavity. Of all my guitars, its only this one. I've just concluded bad pickups. Thoughts?

[@guitarforall262]

same issue with me as well. did you find anything to help it stop?

[@nevillegoddard4966]

@Adam Tuck - Is the enclosure in the body of the guitar earthed?

[@lostinlymbo13]

@@nevillegoddard4966 oh wow, I've sense changed the pickups. I redid everything so many times and nothing helped. I do believe in the end it was just a defective pickup. I put the pickup in a different guitar and the problems persisted

[@nevillegoddard4966]

@@lostinlymbo13 - Hey Adam! You still there? Lol! Is your guitar fixed now mate?

[@lostinlymbo13]

@@nevillegoddard4966 now it is. I did a huge transplant. I took the sustainer setup from a Fernandes guitar and packed it into a Jackson Randy Rhodes V lol How is your situation?

[@gavrilopricip11]

wait what ?.....whats the ad about Japanese workers you edited into your video? I want to see the original!

[@stevegioe7309]

is that an original riff or was it from a hit song. I dig it!!!

[@TheGuitologist]

I was just screwing around. Maybe something I picked up from the hive mind. No idea.

[@lookingatyouforever]

That face peeking over your left shoulder got me shook up for a second!

[@Djcatdad]

That song you played during the re-soldering got my absolute attention what was it called?

[@TheGuitologist]

That was called “Chinese Asthma”. It was my band when I was in High school.

[@Djcatdad]

@@TheGuitologist that’s a great track, I’d throw you some bones for an mp3 Really dug the groove!

[@theofficialdiamondlou2418]

What wattage is your iron?? Is that a Weller 70p ?

[@kg2nc]

The guy sent the guitar to fix he should have also sent the guitar cable. You did a great job man.

[@merrittkwarner8475]

What kind of solder do you use?

[@HappyHermitt]

They could've used plumbing flux. It usually degrades the solder joint over time. Just like we saw on that.

[@kenjimac2211]

Love the insert from "Crazy People" Because Caucasians are just to damn tall, hahahaha 😂

[@guitarampbikernerd]

Sony. Bony

[@multishit6664]

..and gangly

[@74dartman13]

That was some nasty lookin solder joints! Much better now. Nice job! Btw...I have a Squire Bullet 1 from the same year. Has a small Strat type body and a Tele neck. Cool little guitar! Had it forever. The original wiring is pretty decent on that.👍😎🎸🎶

[@74dartman13]

@ wow! I'm glad I kept mine! It's a sunburst finish. The thing is a dream to play. The maple neck/ fretboard is just awesome! It sounds pretty good too! It's in great condition. Definitely a keeper! Thanks for the info...appreciate it!👍😎🎸🎶

[@74dartman13]

@ thanks...did you sell yours?

[@74dartman13]

@ wow...what a shame! Sounds like a wild time though!😂

[@alexandert696]

Ιs that pickguard presolded with pups and pots made in usa ? Whats with the sticker.

[@sprintcarsandguitars959]

pretty shure,japan didn't use cts pots like this guard has.

[@danceswithtraffic8147]

Yes it's replacement non original pickguard etc

[@TheGuitologist]

I don't think any electronics are original.

[@jojojeep1]

Friend I just bought a brand new Schechter Omen elite Four string bass, I had the base checked out at the guitar center I brought my amp to the guitar center and the bass it sounded beautiful and clear but when I bring it home I get a nasty buzz as soon as I touch anything metal on the base it clears up. I checked my outlet it said it’s grounded what do you think the problem can be. It’s funny if I lie flat on my bed and put the base on my stomach it’s crystal clear soon as I Stand up or sit it buzzes again

[@nevillegoddard4966]

jojojeep and things - Try powering the amp from a different outlet in the house. Maybe try it at someone elses house.

[@plos1965]

I've ruined so many pots while soldering the ground wires on them. They just became to hot. Is this because it is 100% tin? I'm in the EU where lead in solder is prohibited in most cases...

[@nevillegoddard4966]

plos 1965 - Yeah lead free solder needs a higher temp to melt. Just buy lead solder screw the rules! They're stupid anyway. Lead solder is the best. Just don't pick your nose, smoke or eat with your fingers when using lead solder & you'll be ok. Also, you need at least a 40 watt soldering iron with a chisel tip.

[@kiwibass]

Well done, Brad! :-) That being said, I wonder why you didn't just turn the output jack 180 degrees (the soldering lugs facing the tone pot), thus giving the white lead some slack. As the pickguard seems to be an aftermarket replacement, it's very likely that whoever installed it mounted the jack the wrong way. I also wouldn't recommend installing the bridge ground lead that way - twisting the wires and putting the end into the screw hole. Sure enough it will never get pulled out again. But as it is now quite thick and stiff (and long too!), it creates a gap between the bridge and the body, which is not what you want. It's better to keep the wires as short as possible and let them "fan out". This way they get pressed into the finish (or wood) more easily, allowing the bridge to sit flush and make maximum contact with the body.

[@JohnShalamskas]

Or just abrade the chrome finish on the bottom of the bridge where the hole in the body is, and solder the ground to it.

[@lorenshoffos7620]

Hello Brad, I own a few of these MIJ Squiers and Fenders. If this is a 83, it should have a serial number starting with either JV or SQ. Its definitely not original wiring as they were cheap electronics in the originals. I tend to think this one was refinished at one point. The bridge is not original either.

[@308Savagebolt]

Lorens Hoffos Yeah, Wilkson bridge and what look like CTS pots. Just poor solder and grounding.

[@fearnpol4938]

I own a couple of 83 Squiers and all of the electronics are US and this one has been got at by an incompetent.

[@Erzahler]

After what you said about the crappy solder, I started thinking (yes I know, dangerous!! 😁)... is it possible someone might have used acid-core solder on those joints instead of rosin-core?

[@TDJsteroids2011]

What solder are you using?

[@superamp2724]

Whenever I watch you solder I find myself blowing on my tablet.

[@ndehdischeen7053]

😋 pumpkin soup is so yummy when i watch brad doin his thang👍...wish i had some😶

[@iaingraham4911]

Excellent 👌😊👍🇬🇧

[@60retired]

Did you notice the made in USA sticker on the underside if the pickguard, whats up with that.

[@Patrick-857]

A lot of parts put into 80s MIJ Fenders came from the US. Especially around the mid 80s when Fullerton was shut down after CBS sold Fender. All the remaining inventory went to Japan while they were building the Corona plant.

[@directorofnothing6010]

You mentioned the owner soldered some stuff himself. I bet he blew on the solder joints with his breath and that put contaminants in the joint and caused oxidation, hence the dust you were getting from the solder sucker.

[@nevillegoddard4966]

@Director of Nothing - Now that's a novel idea I never thought of that! That could be what happened!

[@dragons_red]

Really!? C'mon

[@tomfoolery2082]

Even tho my guitars are playin ok, makes me wander if theres some crappy work thats been done. Ok , im goin in !

[@islanderwinder]

That static on the pickup pole piece is usually caused by the way the pickup is wound & wired , so if you use the start wire from one of the coils as the hot wire you are making the poles super sensitive as the first few turn of magnet wire are in the inside of the coil going directly around the magnets , basically same as reversing the wires on a strat pickup can have the same symptoms . this only applies to fender style pickups with wire wound directly on the magnets .

[@grabslide]

If you ground them they won't

[@PecanPie1102]

Could you play some Rush in the future? Thanks

[@TheGuitologist]

YYZ coming right up.

[@kemptonklutz]

Thanks Dave, that guitar was really 'Gooched ; )

[@roryloftin6493]

Hey brad love your vids uncle Doug’s also I have a 1967 Tele tone amp with tremolo, a series filament type . I’m unable to locate a schematic,any sites that you can share with me.? If I could get your email I’ll send pics and info thanks in advance

[@samiam5557]

Why does my Jazz bass feel like I'm wearing 2 concrete blocks? I need one of those light PB's!

[@brittisaacrossman]

Dude, I've dealt with that kinda solder! Old, grey and crusty, cold as hell micro-chips! And smells like hell, too! Sorry you had to deal with that, but great clean up!

[@ericcoombs]

MOST EXCELLENT!

[@jopestv1063]

Did I detect "Beat Generation" by the Beat Farmers? If so...COOL! I met Country Dick McDonald (RIP) years ago. A true entertainer and funny as hell.

[@xttocx]

If there's even a mm of white of my nails showing, they'll catch everything on the planet, I honestly don't know how you live with those raptor claws 😂 Nonetheless, great video, great job

[@manicmurph]

what does it mean when you touch the cable it goes away? also when i touch my laptop it goes away. I'm using an amp simulator with a les paul. Pretty sure everything is wired correctly cause it doesn't do it when I plug into the amp or when I use my washburn dime3. this is super annoying! Been trying to figure this out all day. I'm one step away from calling the old guitar repair guy up the street.

[@nevillegoddard4966]

@Axe Addict - What's an amp simulator?

[@manicmurph]

@@nevillegoddard4966 it's an amp that you use on your computer. There's a free one called th-3. It's pretty cool if you don't have a real tube amp to mic.

[@nevillegoddard4966]

@@manicmurph Oh right so it's software then, to simulate the sound & features of a guitar amp is it? I guess you probably use a plug adapter or some kind of USB dongle to connect the guitar to the laptop then?

[@manicmurph]

@@nevillegoddard4966 yeah you have to use an interface you can get one for like 99 bucks.

[@budude2]

Wondering if the solder touch-ups were done with lead-free solder - that stuff sucks...

[@budude2]

(from the previous work on it btw)

[@fullwaverecked]

Third thumbs-up and I only have two thumbs! You make me laugh Brad! I was in Japan from '81 to '96ish. Hope it wasn't me that put this bass together... Don't really recall all of my questionable activities while I was there. So many beers n broads. Ah the good ol'days. ;)

[@Mike-rp8ev]

Sweet 🎸

[@1thess523]

I like that pickguard!

[@demonprincess5634]

sure wish I could get my guitar working, I just got it from ebay. it a 89' Synsonics Terminator and it has a built in amp. I've look at all the wires and everything but just can't get any sound from the amp. I thought maybe it was just the speaker so I run a headphone jack off the speaker. I did get music playing off it, so I know that at less the speaker is okay. At the moment I can't have another amp to test it any farther.

[@bufordtjustice7015]

So if this was an '83 MIJ Squire P Bass, why the "Made in USA" sticker on the back side of the pick guard?

[@57Banjoman]

Might be acid core solder used for plumbing-

[@daddymidwest4111]

Why not solder the ground to the back of bridge?

[@MrBrymstond]

Balsawood Bass and it probably has a better conductance or signal with some lead in that tin.