bafang bbshd double amps mod

I'm in process of soldering two SMD current sense resistors on top of the existing ones. The concensus seems to be that by doubling down on these SMDs you can trick the Bafang controller into thinking you are only using half the amps. If you remove your board from the side cover they are on the bottom.
The guys at endless sphere (who are a million times smarter than me) have many more suggestions on how to overvolt ( past 52v ) and although I'd love to dive in and get those mods done too I'm not quite sure I'm gonna be able to complete this without frying my controller...... That being said, I take no responsibility if you fry yours too.
Mouser part number is 588-PCS2512FR0050ET.
Good luck!
Bafang BBSHD mid drive double amps SMD current sensing resistor ebike e bike controller mod 60a 60amp 60 amp fast power torque diy modification RogueSumo

[@68vw2bugyou]

I finished it up and went for a ride up the street. First half mile just checking out the pull from each pedal assist from about 5mph up to about 20mph. Couldn't wait any longer to open it up. Full blast for about 5 miles and when I got home the motor and controller were barely warm. No noticeable difference in heat between stock and shunt mod. Huge difference in pulling power!

[@l.shumkov7468]

@68vw2bugyou How does it hold up 2 years later ? :)

[@68vw2bugyou]

Still running great!

[@mihavuk]

Thanks for sharing that. 👍 I just modified my bike with BBSHD, now I'm playing with programming parameters. This mod might come in the future. At the moment I'm quite happy with 12S LiPo power.

[@hawaiiebikes707]

Thank you very much for posting this Jeremy!

[@scarter9447]

Good to see, i may do this and a new nylon gear replacement and 60A batt later. Thnaks for the vid i didnt know the shunts were that easy to get to on the back.. Is it possible it you know the exact location you could cut/drill the outside case to access the shunts and make a patch cover for the hole?

[@s.u.9679]

Thanks Jeremy for video, I after shunt mod hav around 1200miles, everything is good, but what you think, if soldered ower 4more resistors, power lifting in peac 3 times?

[@68vw2bugyou]

You'll probably fry the controller. But who cares.... maybe you won't. If you do fry it kelly makes a tiny little thing. I've got 2 of them on an all wheel drive carbon bike.

[@WaptimusPrime]

lol.. I blew one resistor up due to a short on the wires. after 4 months of just riding with max 250 watts it now works again..... I gottah say... these motors are strong. Not just with power..... also in the way they are build!

[@int53185]

I just smoked my hd motor doing a long hill climb with a double amp controller. I was pushing almost 3000w for a couple of minutes. Disassembled the motor tonight and both the rotor and stator are burnt. Ordered a new nylon gear a hall sensor board and a new stator with the rotor.

[@likfrikbik]

Install temperature probe on controller, so you can see temperature and stop pushing it before it gets to hot.

[@Desilv]

Just replace the magnet to the paddle crank… much easier 5-10minutes you’ll go ( dependent on your gears ) to 40 km/h easy

[@pharrohku5922]

It seems like most everybody is out of these shunts resistors where else can I get them ?? Also I found the R003 ones but they want 2x the shipping cost of the products For 10 piece =$3.51 + Shipping is $7.99 I have a couple old BBSHD controllers that have the same error 12H code before I bought a new one and Now I can try this Mod on them

[@giancarloconsolo]

what material did you use to fill the socket?

[@RobertSchmitt-u7l]

When you glue on heatsinks use silicone, and make the thinnest possible layer. You want both surfaces flat and bare metal if possible, flat like glass mirror flat and then use the thinnest layer of silicone any silicone works, and you get best heat dissipation with the thinest layer. just barely enough to squeeze out, or less than that, try smearing both sides until you cannot smear dabs off with your finger, both sides that way, and then press together and clamp. You will not burn out the mosfets if you keep them cool, and dont overvolt or stall the bike or jolt it.

[@curtisevans4773]

Are you going to sauter 1 or two on top of the resistors updates on any success would be great

[@jackreacher1963]

I think I will do this. Nice

[@wastedWizard509]

is there also a voltage mod? to run this motor on 60 or even 72v?

[@יונתןבכורי]

Replace the capacitors to 100v

[@katiekumcgil]

Just remove the bafang controller alltogether and use a MQ con sabvoton, it turns the bafang into an awesome motor, and with 72 volt battery ,youll have bike that accelarates faster than motor bike

[@katiekumcgil]

will easily hit 70 kms per hour

[@68vw2bugyou]

But that wasn't the point of this project. It was to push the limits of the tiny internal controller. And while I love the sabvoton controllers (I have two on other builds), they are big and clunky. There is nowhere to mount one on a regular bike without creating huge racks or panniers.

[@68vw2bugyou]

I am thinking of trying one of those microsized kelly 72v 60a controllers.....

[@MrChelseafc88]

Did you do this in the end and how did it go? With a HD, I'd always go with a bac 855 personally and there are ppl out there making kits so it's simply plug and play. I'd love to try the new ludicrous vesc controller though to see if it can compete with the bac. One major plus for the ludi is it's still hidden in the original bafang controller housing and good for over 4kw apparently

[@mulletor123]

Follow up video of how quick the bike is please.

[@68vw2bugyou]

The motor is on a Aluminum Northrock fatbike. I'm about 150lbs. Without pedaling I get a great acceleration and top speed of about 37-38mph. I installed a wider range freewheel for more low end grunt and a capability for more top speed without "ghost pedaling" but I've found an issue. The smallest gear on the freewheel is now 11 tooth. It's such a small gear that even at a high speed and rolling throttle softly into it the chain will skip teeth. I think there is just too much power for an 11 tooth cog. It may be a cheap freewheel setup or a lack of tension in the derailer but I think the 11 tooth just doesn't allow enough surface contact for the chain.

[@danielthomas7318]

@@68vw2bugyou you should try a half link chain

[@LETMECHOOSEANAME1]

@@68vw2bugyou Hey, I'd not recommend going into anything below a 15t in the cassette, getting into them gears causes the motor to heat up considerably more which could fry something in the motor, snap a chain & wear out the gears to the point of them being unusable. I've experienced all three and that was just with the bbs02, I had to get a new bike to resolve everything, just my two cents!

[@thebeaglebeat3615]

Hiw did it work out?

[@pharrohku5922]

They must have changed the parts # because it does NOT come up on there site ( 588-PCS2512FR050ET )

[@karolisk63]

I would not recommend to mess with original controllers. After frying 4 of them after the shunt mode I have finally put an external ASI BAC855 in place. Shunt mod is the best way to get stuck in the middle of the woods with a dead ebike :D BAC855 is very affordable at ~180Eur and the difference is HUGE.

[@68vw2bugyou]

Sorry about your bad luck. Mines still rocking!

[@andrej7505]

Where did you buy it in europe for 180€? Can you share a link please

[@gerbenposthumus8878]

You can't, i have seen them more like 500/600€( Europe 800€) in the UK as a complete set with controller, controller case and display plus motor case but only as backorder so it can take a long time before they are in stock again. In America they sell them to but every where they were out of stock.

[@karolisk63]

@@gerbenposthumus8878 Yep, right now the price is spiked. I got mine for 180eur in 2020 from a company in Slovenia, right now they are out of stock. One guy got a programmed bac855+harness+display from a company in UK for ~400 gbp. I believe it is quite a good deal for a combo.

[@electricbikeretrovintage]

You fried 4 of them and you think you are in position to give advice?

[@debunkthejunk1]

Sorry, but your math is off. 1/5+1/5+1/5 = 3/5 so your equivalent resistance is 5/3 = 1.6666667. You're going from 2.5 Ohm to 1.66667Ohm 2.5/1.666667=1.5 30*1.5=45A This is a 45A shunt mod, not a 60A. You need to add 2*5 Ohm resistors to get 60A 1/5+1/5+1/5+1/5 = 4/5 eq= 1.25 2.5/1.25 = 2 30A*2 = 60A. If you remove the 2*5Ohm and replace them with 2*3Ohm you're equivalent resistance would be 1.5 and 2.5/1.5 = 1.666667 so 30*1.666667=50A.

[@pharrohku5922]

Thats exactly what I was thinking when he said he was replacing them with the 2.5

[@debunkthejunk1]

@@pharrohku5922 Yep, it's a 45A mod. Which isn't bad, lots of power without having to worry about melting the nylon gear, and a lot of batteries have a 45A BMS. 60A is a bit much and you probably have to mod the BMS as well. You can do the mod and limit the current using the software so it's not a big deal, but if you want the redundancy of both the BMS and the controller limiting the current you need to do it properly.

[@scarter9447]

It wasnt said clearly in the vid but he was doubling up both shunt resistors giving him 60A max.

[@debunkthejunk1]

@@scarter9447 Yes, I watched the video again and he stumbles a bit but he does seem to be adding 2x5 ohm in parallel which would double the current. Nice catch, when I first watched it I honed in on him saying he would take 1 and solder it.

[@s.u.9679]

Hello, I have a few questions for you Sir . I moded mi BBSHD controller like in video, original controller is 28 a , now I hav 54 a , but if I soldered 1 or 2 more it will be 70 a - 84a ? Thanks

[@SA-bg9tp]

Is yours still running?

[@68vw2bugyou]

It's great. I've had no problems with it at all.

[@DOHC.V4]

Hey cool video I like the topic, I haven't seen this done on KZbin till now and also do you know about the phaserunner V3 by Grin technology? it's something you might be interested in I know I am.

[@68vw2bugyou]

I checked out the phaserunner. It seems like an Awesome setup. I may end up getting one for my BBSHD. For now though I've got a couple other projects going on. 1= super73 Z1 with 72v and 60a pushing it. 2= Stealth enduro clone build thats looking at just over 12,000w when done.

[@DOHC.V4]

@@68vw2bugyouI will get one eventually for my bbshd I heard the mosfets can handle a lot of amps, Andy Kirby a ebike builder in UK uses them on most of his builds that's where I discovered bafang motors and the phaserunner. I've got a full suspension down hill mountain bike it's BTwin rockrider 9.1 I have only a 52v battery I doubt mine even gets to go to 30a but it's awesome all the same I'll be looking forward to modding it in the future. Super73 Z1 with 72v and 60a that must be so amazing to ride wow! Yep that enduro I've dreamed about building one! That's an ultimate setup no doubt! Keep on with the videos thanks for your time really appreciate watching take care and stay safe cheer!

[@68vw2bugyou]

A cheap easy way to find out is this watt meter. I just installed xt90 connectors on either side to verify my bbshd display accuracy when I build my fatbike. When I did the shunt mod I verified the display was reading 50% of actual wattage provided. www.amazon.com/dp/B07RQP6HHN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_.9VbGbK14WWDN

[@aidsmaster69420]

Don't think we don't hear that fire alarm

[@BakedAndAwakePodcast]

Dam Son

[@Fox_exe]

Huh... Instruction "How to burn your controller"? More amp's = more heat. If you need more power - use external controller. (And change gears to steel one)

[@68vw2bugyou]

Burn the controller? Sure, it's possible. My bike is still running strong though. Btw, what's the cost of my mod vs getting a new controller? And where are you gonna mount the controller on the bike? And how's it gonna look when your done? Sure, another controller could work even better, but that wasn't my point in doing this. I was having fun experimenting with a mod. And who cares if the stock controller burns up if you're just gonna replace it anyhow?

[@curtisevans4773]

I doubled down sautering to r005 on top and there was no increase or decrease in power

[@nicod974]

Just get a higher power motor and run it at nominal rate. These shunt mods are dodgy and void warranty.

[@RobertSchmitt-u7l]

Now that we know where the resistors are located you could,,, Mill out the plate then pick out the compound to replace the resistors. Just takes a small mill or small lathe with a good vice, any machine shop should be able to do it cheap and quick. Just a 1/2in slot about 3/4in wide to get in with the solder gun. Then just seal up with jb weld and put a heatsink over it. This can be a very worthwhile mod. I think the stock controller should be kept, keeping in the theme of simple cheap and effective. No need to buy more shit for the hell of it. It can do max of 63v but, just to be correct, the battery pack should be 58.8v maximum. 14s lion or 16s lifepo4 at 58.6vmax. This way is probably the most you can squeeze out of these motors, I would go with lifepo4 and less power. Lion is not reliable enough for me, i want 1 battery and done battery for 5 years or 10 or more with everyday or less frequent charge cylces. 400 vs 3000. And add tungsten disulfide powder to all of the bearings and gears, this reduces friction significantly, increases max capable gear load and bearing load. Its very good stuff, its tungsten, so its extrmely durable, the microlubrol stuff can be trusted. If you repack all the gears and bearings with lighter grease and tungsten disulfide powder mixed in a 5-10 percent or less mixture, it will absolutely make the thing last forever, *** I think using tungsten disulfide grease on gears and lightweight grease everywhere else will keep the original plastic gear intact. The only probelm with gears stripping is heat, so if you run it nuts, and then start from stop with the plastic gear pretty hot, you will deform the plastic probably. WIth the tungsten, you get slippery surfaces, less friction, less heat on the gears, in this theory, you would keep the original gear intact. If you get it super hot, the gear will strip. If you add heatsinks to the motor, you can probably keep the gear cool with the ultra low friction grease, and the extra cooling. I would add heatsinks if youre pushing more than 40a. I would add tungsten disulfide to any bearing expecially bike bearing or gear motor that I own. Heat in the motor and magnets would then be the next major thing to consider, which i would consider potting the stator with high temperature automotive varnish or something more conductive. It would make it quieter and more efficient because copper losses would be minimized. Think of it like a rework, or your 1000 mile maintenance job, or whenever its supposed to be maintained as recommended by bafang. The grease and ws2 powder will help stop wear dead in its tracks. For your bike chain, though, I always would recommend a dry wax lube, as that has worked best for me under all conditions.