ADDING A SWITCH TO YOUR VARIABLE CONTROLLER

[@kennethcounts5905]

Another hit out of the ball park from Professor Duncan. I can't tell you how happy I am that I ran onto you. I have gotten an amazing education and found a fun hobby and learned several new skill sets. You know that distilling is just more than yeast and sugar. All the ins and outs that are there and how important it is to understand every factor of it. Just like this. Electric elements take sooo much guesswork and danger out of the equation from not using the unregulated open flame. Plus no one is going to be able to intimately understand something like the builder. Plug it in, turn it on knowing full well what it will or won't do. And when you put that together, with the understanding of biology and techniques. Lead you to a quality no guesswork spirit. Thanks again for the opportunity to learn.

[@PowerRifff]

I know that this might not be related, but I just want to say THANK YOU, GEORGE!!! You are the real MVP Your videos helped me so much. My first mash is fermenting right now and I can't wait to see the results. All this education is really priceless and I appreciate that there are people like you, that are spreading the passion and knowledge you have with all of us around the world. I bow down to you, sir! Greetings from sunny Bulgaria (:

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

Wow, thanks

[@shaunsproule488]

Thanks for making it simple enough for us thickheads!

[@russellrivers8486]

Yes George injoy your shows this is the latest one I could find I find there very thorough I have learned from you and a few others just enough to be dangerous .and I have drank a bit of it some good and bad . but you and others I thank .I think throu time I can make some good .but right now I'm still in the building stage.but on your pid would be visavel towire a three posion swithe and three temperature outlets to monitor your temperatures off your pid.

[@tsropes]

This is a great idea for electric brewing for the boil pot! Mash PID is best but for boil you don’t need the thermometer really. Just watch for boil.

[@scottdesart275]

I can’t wait for the next video. Putting it all in the box and making a run

[@robertwright4420]

I added a switch between the InkBird PID and SSR so I could quickly disable the output, that would leave the InkBird powered and temp readout active.

[@Rob_Diamond]

Thanks George!

[@reevinriggin3570]

Ah, Yes. The ole 4" bubble plate ploy. Yes, I seen it coming from a mile away. It was a good plan, though. Great content, too. Just in time to help me decide on the heating system of the new still build. Thanks!

[@heymulen1840]

Hey. Just go all in if you can afford it I say ! I made a 10.000 watt scr controller ,and an Inkbird pid controller with 40a ssr relay. That way I have the choice either I run stripping, reflux or slooow pot still runs. Happy Distilling !

[@robertfontaine3650]

Thanks for doing this series.

[@ishtzavah]

The current sensing transformer is a toroidal type. Putting everything in a box also prevents someone accidentally touching a live wire.

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

WOW! That is excellent. I will share this with the community. Thanks for sharing the proper name of that donut thing... George

[@schpoe123]

How would you out in a place to plug in your water for you condenser? Power then the ground wit a on off switch? Thanks

[@jaredkelly5470]

Good video

[@larrysommers6178]

Where did you get that flush mounted mini-breaker at? I've been looking for one. I can find DIN rail all day but nothing that comes with a flush mount bracket.

[@arjenschroevers]

When connecting ground instead from neutral the RCD or ELCB or RCBO, or earth leakage switch will trip.... (these devices go with a lot of different names). Most countries they are required by law. I can not imagine that in USA they are not required? When making this kind of heating system be sure a kind of earth leakage protection is in place. Do I understand correct that when you talk about 220V you are talking about two phases 110V to neutral? In that case use only a one wire swich does not disconnect the system from 110V to ground. Maybe install for explanation two more voltage meters. Two from each wire to ground, and one from your "L" wire to the other "L" wire.

[@donnstarkey9932]

Replacing the standard potentiometer with a 10-turn potentiometer improves the precision of the controller.

[@arjenschroevers]

it does not improve precision at all. It only makes adjustineg easier.

[@wormytom]

Thanks. The switching leads me to think that automation or remote control panels would be involved particularly with larger set ups. I guess with huge systems PID is the best solution for control. How big of a system are we talking though?

[@macEboy]

Thanks George for the additional details BUT it looks like the SSR 40-VA is NLA (No Longer Available). Cheers!

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

Search through amazon. There are others that are available. I ordered one from three different vendors and two arrived within three days. The last one will arrive in two weeks.

[@rocketsroc]

It looks like you are building up to the ultimate, a PID controller. If that happens, it would be good to really go into depth on PIDs. It seems like many folks just don't get how a PID works and how to use one. It, like all tools and equipment, requires a degree of learning how best to use it properly. Happy Distilling!

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

That's the plan!

[@chuckmilligan7824]

When supper glueing rocker switch into box, be careful not to get glue inside the switch. It will no longer work. Going to be fun getting it back out.

[@walterbryant479]

I sure learned a lot in ele

[@808brewer2]

Do you happen to have a wiring diagram for this whole build?

[@chuckmilligan7824]

The diagram is on the white board behind George

[@DerikStillPasinthrough]

"Let's unplug this." Words to live by... lol

[@buckshot8393]

George where can I purchase a pid control

[@scottbonner8910]

How do you wire up the volt amp meter on 220

[@danthemann]

You should set up as an Amazon Affiliate (no cost to us, commission to you).. Most of this stuff is sold out now!

[@vtbn53]

The only thing I didn't like in this video was the use of the term "very inexpensive". I realise that is true in North America, but here in Oz it's quite expensive, especially the box.

[@vincentgledhill4777]

This is Dangerous. You are proposing to use light switches usually rated at 5 amps or so, in a heater element circuit. When the element is on it will burn out the switch!

[@arjenschroevers]

Usual the problem is when switching under load. When you turn the load (potentio meter) down before operating the switch there should be no problem. But you are correct, it is not according the rules.

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

The 120 volt switch is rated at 20 amps.

[@vincentgledhill4777]

@@BarleyandHopsBrewing and the tiny toggle switches with lights? These should be in the variable resistor line if anywhere. Sorry George, love your videos, but you really need to remake this one. For the sake of watchers safety

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

@@vincentgledhill4777 The rocker switches are rated for 15 amps. Where is the problem?

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

@Tesla Salesman I assure you that the switch is rated at 15 amps at 240 volts and 20 amps at 120 volts. You don't have to believe me, you can get one here www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B7RGLM3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You sound bitter because I have not changed the video as you demanded. Just think, if I did I would be sharing bad information. You could have just done a simple search of these rocker switches. That's okay. I'll leave your post up since I do not edit/delete comments. I do appreciate your comments, just wish they were based on truth.

[@jeezchong8992]

I've sent you an email and still not reply.. huhuhhuhu

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

Well, out of the hundreds that I get I may have overlooked it. Sorry.

[@bobhope5773]

:D

[@ShinerShane]

#moonshinemessiah