Basic Soldering Lesson 6 - "Component Soldering"

[@joshuamcdonald5850]

these videos are old as balls, but they are seriously the best thing ive found on the best. amazing stuff.

[@ryanmckenna2047]

This is an absolute master class of lectures.

[@targusmack2302]

I used to think I was gods gift to solder irons... Appears that I NEED more practice. The best tutorial on soldering I have ever seen!

[@Marcoosianism]

Thumbs up for humility ;-)

[@darrenblaze5055]

Absolutely concur with you. I've done wire solder repair in the military for several years and it was never taught so plainly and clearly as this.

[@goognamgoognw6637]

This is brillant, the 1980's were a brillant age of technology clarity. No bs.

[@peterjackson3424]

Taught these techniques for many years. The rubberised abrasive can be an ink eraser, and the solvent is isopropyl alcohol, seems to be a recurring question.

[@hashysmashy]

been trying to figure out what kind of "rubberized stick" I could buy and how the heck they even market them other than for automobile engine work. thank you!

[@girdlephile]

Thanks for the info about the rubberized abrasive stick. I thought it might be an ink eraser as you've said.

[@nahfid2003]

Oh ok.

[@Solder_it]

I dont them the stick is needed anymore, most parts today is clean and pre tinned, in older days the parts leads will be dirty and must be cleaned etc.

[@ben-7403]

Anything and everything you could want from a series on soldering. Badass.

[@exogendesign4582]

dang, straight to the point, no more bullshit, not too much talk, demo with theory, What has this world became today.

[@spoderman15]

welcome to 1980

[@DrGeta666]

these days any tutorial videos are "HEY MAN IT"S YA BOY HERE MAKE SURE YOU SUB AND THUMBS UP *adds intro music* " STFU and get to the content already

[@Gremlinke96]

tutorials made with sony vegas with shitty notepad 'subtitles' and cancerous music

[@TigDegner]

@@DrGeta666 that's because KZbinrs rely on subs, likes, etc. to earn something for the time they've spent producing content you get for free. If you don't like their content, don't watch it. If you do, try to show some appreciation.

[@Princeton_James]

Not an intro with dumb effects or "B roll". Not 5 minutes of telling is what we're going to learn in this video.

[@JordanBlaze2011]

best video on soldering I watched yet.

[@Slacknutz]

"Principle thermal mass", he says...this guy is liquid gold. Great video without all the filler shown these days trying to entertain.

[@jusb1066]

yep where are the explosions?

[@thesomething8467]

I hate those new videos where you have to skip forwards and backwards to get to the content if you don't want to waste 5 minutes of your life.

[@FloydAtema]

Or to get to the 10 minute mark for ranking.

[@nohrtillman8734]

Got a ConForm in the mail today. I’m certain it will quickly set lead spacing for professional looking work. Beyond soldering, breadboard results will be much cleaner using it too. Yes, it’s plastic, but reinforced (glass-filled?) so it’s tougher than it looks. Slider could fit tighter, but if I keep pressure on the upper side while tightening the screw it helps. Perfectly suited to work than shouldn’t need strong-arming in the first place. Thanks for the timeless courses, Pace!

[@paceworldwide]

We did not include the braided tweezer lead cleaner in the program cause some companies don't use that method but some do. Users of the program modified the program to meet there own standards and specifications of their organization. Oxidation at micron levels are can be removed just clean afterwards. Tim we could split hairs here but I want to tell you I understand your feedback and appreciate your upfront comments. Very Best Regards, Marc Siegel.

[@jimmychadwick8126]

This video takes me back. It must have been made in the 60s or so, maybe even earlier. Soldering technique of this sort is still done the same way, evidently.

[@CST1992]

It says 1980, so not that old a video.

[@ronniepirtlejr2606]

Those are sure some beautiful solder Joints!

[@paceworldwide]

That's one of William Siegels ( my dad ) invention's called "Com-Form". Tim you sound like your an old pro remembering the forming tool. Best again . Marc Siegel Please visit our new site. Good Day

[@ledlightingaccessories-led5160]

really learn a lot from this lesson

[@monkeySkeptic]

I am learning so much.

[@lordseph]

Video game console modding here I come! Thank you! Will get a practice board and apply these things! Thank you!

[@sam-oh3wy]

don't throw it out. fix it! such a great hobby. I wish you luck!

[@comment2009]

In high school (1980) we had a student that resembled any given hair band singer. He had not properly trimmed the leads on his project. Instructor told him to "get a haircut". The student returned the next day with a new short cropped hair style.

[@turbojoe2]

I need one of those forming tools!

[@astronomo1muerto]

great videos !!

[@neojeets]

retro awesomeness

[@Marivvan]

Clear And Awsome

[@xucaen]

Is the rubberized abrasive stick the same thing as a No. 2 pencil eraser?

[@cerberusgear]

Maybe the blue side of a rubber eraser might work, its abrasive enough to remove pencil/ink smudges by sanding the sheet of paper.

[@goodun2974]

​@@cerberusgear, Ink erasers with some pumice or silica grit in them are difficult to find nowadays. Draftsman's eraser "pencils" in wooden-stick form work extremely well but most of the old ones were made with natural latex rubber and so they dry up and become crumbly with age; the new versions are made of some soft vinyl like substance that they call "plastic" erasers, and they're useless for removing oxidation or tarnish. A fiberglass bristle scratch brush is probably the best easily available modern tool for cleaning oxidation from circuit board foils and pads. I have a video about using scratch brushes and pencil/ink erasers for electronics/soldering prep on my channel.

[@_innerscape_]

I thought I was pretty good at soldering. Built and repaired many things for years, watched many modern tutorials: here we are at jewellery and NASA level.

[@jamesclarity1077]

Incredible

[@xucaen]

What size tip is used to do component soldering? I need to purchase the correct tip up front and can not afford to buy all the tips available to see which ones fit.

[@jusb1066]

buy a hakko type iron, you buy 10 different tips for like 4 dollars for the set

[@dchobbyist6098]

Thank You!

[@Alex-mk2wn]

really nice

[@russkydeutsch]

Abrasive stick and solvent. What are the products exactly, anyone? Agreed; info is clear and concise. Too many spot-light rangers and sugarcoating these days.

[@therealb888]

My doubts too. These vids seem to be for technicians who simply use what's given to them by company engineers. The same is seen the IPC tutorials.

[@orange70383]

You're showing the ignorance of youth.

[@JohnJones-oy3md]

A pencil eraser and 1,1,1-Trichloroethane (good luck finding that retail today).

[@nahfid2003]

@@JohnJones-oy3md why

[@goodun2974]

​@@nahfid2003, "trichor" is a known carcinogen and can damage your nervous system. Isopropyl alcohol is a much safer solvent to use.

[@ArcanePath360]

Damn this guy is tough to please. Most of them joints I thought were acceptable.

[@fortoday04]

Acceptable for NASA? No.

[@jusb1066]

maybe also mil spec, for aircraft or navy etc, not just nasa

[@scottmarlowe3698]

Two words: Frosty and Granulated.

[@ArcanePath360]

Can anyone tell me why too much solder on a joint is bad?

[@evanmanning8247]

It is a waste of solder and bad practice.

[@alankoh807]

+ArcanePath360 Plus overflow of solder may spread to other circuits line and causing short circuit.

[@oneginee]

+ArcanePath360 because it can hide a cold joint, still looks shiny on the outside but the electrical contact inside is poor and you cannot know. If you use the right amount of solder and make a cold joint it will show, so you know you have a bad joint.

[@ArcanePath360]

+oneginee Thanks, but I don't know what you mean by cold joint. I tried Googling it and came up with nothing. Surely the solder itself is a good enough conductor that if you pile it on you are providing a decent connection? (perhaps not on big AC power cables, but for small electronics it's okay?)

[@oneginee]

ArcanePath360 cold joint means the solder did not reach melting point at the copper surface or component lead to fuse together and make a reliable electrical connection. if you test it after soldering, yes, the electrical connection seems just fine but months later, copper will oxidize because it did not fuse properly with the solder and the connection will become poor, instead of getting micro ohms 10^-6 of resistance it will become hundreds of ohms and the board will start malfunctioning or burning too much current, and finding the troublesome joint will be very difficult if impossible. Just because you saw solder melting is not enough, the solder must fuse with the metals. After the copper pad and the component lead wetted they will exert capillary forces that attracts the solder and create a concave surface on the copper surface. This is how you know it's good. But if you put too much solder, you won't be able to see it going concave, also the thermal mass of the extra solder means it probably did not wet. This is unacceptable at any level even amateur. If you put too much solder you can suck it out and solder the joint again.

[@AnthonyMassey]

And any recomenndations for cleaning a circuit board to an Ace 350 Metal Detector. It got rolled over in a wave while sitting on the beach...Without thinking I tried to turn it on, Because it was my first time to the shore with it........Kinda of a good thing it happened cause little did I know your no longer allowed to Metal Detect at Sandy Hook.. But the board has turned a grayish color in areas.... I can't believe i turned it on...

[@sanjaydocx2001]

Very nice😄😄 sir thanks🙏🙇 you

[@justtrollinmindme7686]

I didnt see the solder applying flux on the THT. Unless the solder has flux. What do you think?

[@tookitogo]

Of course the solder has a flux core.

[@spoderman15]

Also, I recommend really thin solder. Half a mill at least

[@SchuchDesigns]

Just bought one on Amazon!

[@KONAGUYHAWAII]

Im so fucking stoned right now.

[@smuludgn]

I watched these videos to change my mouse switches :)

[@alibabaie5]

I don't see better than this video

[@nexstar718]

nice

[@AnthonyMassey]

Would an eraser work...say from a #2 pencil.... to clean. And is Acetone acceptable instead of Alcohol, Just because I have Acetone..lol

[@raul0ca]

Acetone might take off the plastic resist on the board

[@richardcruz7689]

Wow

[@onjisan]

This whole series is making me question the tip I"m using. I chose a fine point tip, but it seems thats doesnt get the best surface contact..

[@tookitogo]

Yeah fine tips suck. Chisels are the best general-purpose tips.

[@quananginh9446]

This video reminds me of how bad my soldering is...

[@Mentorcase]

I know, I think they mean soldering.

[@R2D2inAustralia]

What happened to the L in solder ?

[@raul0ca]

The l is placed between the oh sound and the d sound and the flux burns it away

[@nancyvizcarra6845]

Parece que va a salir la pantera rosa al iniciar el video 😂

[@brianfox7067]

Real men use plumbing solder from 1967 that they found behind the boiler

[@MrBratkenSolov]

Just look at that sexy soldering... mmmm-hmmm

[@SimpleEnough2k9]

I bought one of those CompForm thingie. Honestly, its not worth what they're asking for. The tool is in plastic, and feels fragile. The caliper pins are really small, allowing to accomodate small holes, but they bend easily, so don't expect them to stay straight for a long time. They're packing the tool in a plastic sleeve, the same type we used years ago to put in shirts pocket, preventing ink spill. The size and the form of the tool has nothing to do with that "enveloppe" so its simply useless. I sent my comments to PACE, and as expected, no answer, zip. Globally, stay away from that tool, unless you have money to waste. If you don't have money to waste but still get one, you'll feel ripped off as I did. What a shame !

[@paceworldwide]

Hello SimpleEnough2k9 ! Sorry for not responding sooner. Where did you leave your last comment? I'm not seeing it anywhere! As for the component forming tool, we sell thousands of them each year, and feel the price is quite modest (~30 dollars US). For future correspondence, please leave your comments either via KZbin or our website www.paceworldwide.com We're happy to help you!

[@johnbabiarz8565]

@@paceworldwide I got my comform in 1976 while I was in the Air Force working in a lab in support of the SR-71. Best soldering tool investment I made since I assembled an Imasi 8080 using it. Still have it today, and building an Altair replica. This is a great tool, and will last if treated right.

[@Mazinga]

@@paceworldwide Why not metal? 30$ for plastic is very expensive.

[@wingerrrrrrrrr]

@@Mazinga 8 years ago too. What's it in today's inflation costs?

[@paulevrard294]

Cutting the lead BEFORE soldering is the surest path to dry solder joint disaster!

[@TheChipmunk2008]

Not if you've done all the prep-work shown... remember, this was back in the day of gen-yoo-wine copper component leads, not tinned steel

[@wingerrrrrrrrr]

Usual recommendation is to not to clip them after to avoid stressing the joint. Much tidier looking cutting them after with flush cutters though.

[@diamony123]

Well Fuck... All the bad joints works for me...kinda make you want to have a joint after that class.

[@j.cabarga5971]

TOUCHING SOLDER WIRE TO THE IRON IS A NO-NO!!! ARE THESE PEOPLE REALLY 'PROFFESIONAL' AT THIS?

[@tookitogo]

No, that’s not true. It’s fine to touch the iron, especially just to get the joint started. What you don’t do is put the solder on the iron and then carry that over to the joint, not adding any fresh solder.