How To Install Under Floor Radiant Tubing With Aluminum Omega Heat Transfer Plates Between Joists

US Made Omega Heat Plates: amzn.to/3H6jVJW
M12 Staple Gun: amzn.to/3AYmTfy
Recommended Oxygen Barrier PEX: amzn.to/3gZKVzV
Milwaukee Hole Hawg: amzn.to/3UxEQsw
Big Hawg Bits: amzn.to/3Um1nbu
Measuring Tape: amzn.to/3VLim88
Milwaukee PEX Crimper: amzn.to/3H7kmn8
Milwaukee PEX Pipe Cutter: amzn.to/3XO8FYm
PEX Tubing Unroller: amzn.to/3B1s1Qi
Work Platforms: amzn.to/3P8m4XD
Caulking Gun (Options): amzn.to/3izeBEo
Materials Used:
ARROW T50 Staples 2-Pack: amzn.to/3EYbmxY
Industrial Strength 100% Silicone: amzn.to/3AXY2bB
Heat Transfer (Ω) Plates (Options): amzn.to/3B2ZA4b
PEX Couplings: amzn.to/3ORR8dK
PEX Crimp Rings: amzn.to/3ixwvI1
Oxygen Barrier PEX 1000': amzn.to/3VHQnWT
Oxygen Barrier PEX 300': amzn.to/3EYbVIl
Safety Gear Used:
Milwaukee Work Gloves 2-Pack: amzn.to/3uhsAl3
Molded Earplugs: amzn.to/3OWtBIY
My Favorite Tool: amzn.to/3NIFJuO
Tools We Recommend: amzn.to/3Cssuwh
How To Drill Holes Through Floor Joists: • How To Drill Holes Thr...
Articles that explain about concrete slab vs. wood for radiant heating:
www.energy.gov...
www.builderspa...
In this video we show you the parts & supplies needed and explain the process of installing radiant PEX tubing using aluminum staple up heat transfer omega plates.
Thanks for watching and subscribing! As an Amazon affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for your support!
Was this video helpful to you? Send a tip:www.paypal.me/...
Become a Patron: / bensahlstrom

[@handstwister]

Young man your ever evolving skill set is more impressive with each new project. It’s a pleasure to see such a smart hard working young man especially in todays setting.

[@jadesprite]

The cute little animations during installation REALLY set this video above and beyond for assisting DIY jobs. Thank you so much!

[@EvanDinelli]

Can't wait to see the boiler hook-up video next!

[@JayPoe80]

Thanks for the vid! Going to get rid of the baseboard heat in my 100+ year old house. Showing how to loop the runs is very helpful. Thanks!!!

[@jaysmith201]

The "Pexnado" PEX Tubing Unroller, is a super helpful tool.

[@richdobbs6595]

I used these plates to radiant heat the tile floor in the kitchen when I was finishing off the basement below. Then on top of the slab in the basement I used some plastic spacers designed for radiant heating. On top of this was a cement board underlayment for a tile floor or a plywood subfloor for the basement bedroom that was carpeted. I used 300 foot rolls, and due to the size involved all of the loops ended up somewhere around 250 feet. I used a really cheap corded electrical stapler, and afterwards drove any staples that were sitting proud in with a tap of a hammer. With the basement layout, I didn't have to drill any holes through the joists for the radiant floor because the loops were in an area that was going to be left as an unfinished storage room, and the other ends of the loops were mostly beneath the kitchen cabinets. This was circa 2006. It's interesting that the process and material is pretty much unchanged from that time.

[@billbrooks7911]

Great job. Trusting I didn’t miss this but you may want to add that when possible the runs first coming from the heat source should be focussed on the coldest parts of the floor example the extremities so for instance your greatest heat is not in the middle of the floor where it gets too hot

[@oby-1607]

The only tools we use is the good ol red and black Milwaukee. Never stops working. The staple idea is a good one. Wish I saw this video as we did this very same job on an addition.

[@dccooper1211]

Cool! I've had the chance to install this type of radiant heat with accessories and over the years of installation of boilers etc I've found "poor-overs" are much easier and way more efficient. Nice work! Hated loading my uncoiler lol.... I'm now becoming a mechanical engineer at 45 years young.... Hard work and good work ethics pay off💯 keep it up!

[@robindenbeste4655]

NOT ALL TYPES OF WOOD FLOORS ARE COMPATIBLE WITH UNDERFLOOR HEATING. THANK YOU FOR PASSING IT FORWARD.

[@paulmaxwell8851]

I've installed many, and never come across a wood floor that was somehow incompatible. My last job was in my own house, and I had prefinished solid maple. These systems are lower in efficiency, but work well regardless.

[@robindenbeste4655]

@@paulmaxwell8851 I HAVE. TRUE STATEMENT. HAPPY HALLYDAY'S 😊

[@YevZakharov]

More of a "Warranty" issue than a real issue.

[@jagzigian]

BRO!!! Been in business doing changeouts and ductless. I decided we try our first radiant floor. It turned out amazing. Your video was impeccable.

[@jeremypittman1697]

Code is not opinion. In Canada 1 inch hole has to be 12" from any load bearing wall and 12" per inch in hole size there after to a maximum of 1/3 of joist size. ( 3 1/4" hole in 2x10, (9 1/2") Neat product and work.

[@Leonbartolome]

It’s satisfying to see such a clean installation

[@ChuckKarl525]

Great video! Several years ago I raised a sunken living room floor to the same level as the rest of the main floor level using 2x8 joists. Because the living room was a converted single stall garage, I couldn't access the joist bays from below. So, after friction fitting batt insulation plus a one inch layer of foil backed rigid insulation in the joist bays, I notched each joist from the top and stapled the heat transfer plates transvers to the joists. After snapping the pex into place in the same pattern that you are showing here, I installed the sheathing to complete the upgrade. Also, I used a big black marker to map the tubing below, then wrote a note to beware of what is below. To do it all over again, I would have spaced the initial (4) runs of tubing 6" OC along both exterior walls first, then continue in the field. At -40 in Fairbanks, the entire floor is nicely warm on the feet, but there is a slight cool convection dropping down from above at the walls where a couch or chair may be located. Note that my home has R 38 walls and an R50 lid but placing the heat nearest to the heat loss will make for a more comfortable space. Once again, great job on the video.

[@paulhoekstra7569]

You notched the joist! Now they are 2x6's.

[@ChuckKarl525]

@@paulhoekstra7569 yep, but they are completely supported by the conc slab that they are sitting on. Agree that notching is not good for a free span joist.

[@paulhoekstra7569]

@@ChuckKarl525 Now I understand. I missed a couple words in your note. I think I started in at the second sentence. Have a great day.

[@ChuckKarl525]

@@paulhoekstra7569 you have a great day as well.

[@ChileExpatFamily]

Hello from Chile Ben! I have radiant heating here in my house that I installed and I love it. I came to your video so that I could get an update on the correct installation process. I could not find the OMEGA Plates here in Chile years ago. So I had to use multiple clips which was not the best but it is still effective. Thanks for the video. Very good explanation. Here I use a wood boiler to heat my water. It works well. Thanks again Ben. Jim in Chile.

[@esneeze]

There is a argument that the heat transfer plates are not needed due to the nature of the floor assembly being saturated with heat and the slow nature of heating the system. Great job on the install. Nice video.

[@davidgrisco1939]

Agreed. I installed yrs ago in a new house. Read the pros and cons of transfer plates. Decided not to use. No noise. Even heat. Must keep set temp, no set back. Takes time to both heat up AND cool down. Best even, quiet heat.

[@adamenstrom]

Yup. Plates are pointless

[@richdobbs6595]

​@@adamenstrom I would think that depends on how much heat you are trying to transfer and how much floor area you have to transfer it. If you don't use the plates, how do folks hold the PEX in place? I used the plates based on the research that I did at that time, but that was 18 years ago.

[@TheMityquin]

In a few years when this young man graduates hs, his father is going to have to pay him whatever he asks for. He's incredibly knowledgeable.

[@jkbrown5496]

I always like the standard name "Spinning Jenny" used in fencing. Come from the thread spinning of old.

[@FixthisCD]

I would make gauge for marking your holes. just a piece of plywood/ 2x4 to stick into the corner to quickly mark your centers.

[@BenjaminSahlstrom]

That would be faster probably.

[@teejay622]

As usual, great video Ben. I did mine exactly like this. If I had it to do all over again, I think I may have done it differently though. Each of my zones, done in this manner, really suffer from thermal loss across the floor of each room. What I mean by that is that the side of the room where the loops begin is always substantially warmer than the far side. I think when I do the next rooms, rather than running the tube into the cavity and down and back, and then into the next cavity, like you've done in this video and like I did in all of my other rooms, I will run the tubes into the cavity, down to the end and then into the next cavity - having a single tube in each cavity all the way to the far end of the room and then run the tube back through in the same manner, ending up with 2 tubes per cavity like your method here but, unlike this method, the heat should be much more evenly distributed throughout the room rather than having a hot side and a cooler side of the floor. Has anyone ever done it that way and if so, did it do what I'm hoping it will do? What's your opinion on this Ben? Either way, this video is yet another example of your excellent teaching talent. You always explain things in such a way that anyone can understand it. That is a true gift. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. Even at 430K+ subs, I think your channel is seriously underrated. Thanks again. Be well.

[@0my]

Have you tried reversing the flow (swapping the tubes at the manifold) so that the hottest section of pex goes first to the exterior side of the zone (coolest section of the room)?

[@wadevanbuskirk234]

Nice. I think I might try it. Seems like I could create each bay loop, grab and twist pull and staple, one at a time, rather than constantly feeding and maintaining all the little intermediate loops.

[@scottcarruthers3807]

Benjamin, Came across your video as I am looking into adding this type of system into my finished cottage. I would need to be installing from our crawl space (totally dry as when we built we sprayed the ground a min of 4'' and all up the walls and roof) We should have added infloor heat mats when we tiled, but we didn't and now looking to add this system. I found your video to be VERY useful on how to plan and install this system! So please, Continue to make more videos. Your descriptions are done incredibly well. Cheers,

[@tcap7917]

Nice work. Making the holes bigger as you suggest is the best advice. I fought with a lot of pex because of this. The twist and pull is the method I use instead of having all those loops hanging and feeding. Its way faster and reduces the chance of kinking. You could've heated up that kink if it wasn't too bad. Always have a plan drawing for the routing this way you can combine some shorter loops with potential longer loops. It's easier to balance out the loops on paper first. I have done 1/2" 350' runs without issues but I do planning to stay below 300' Design the flow to heat from the outside in and keep off the outside wall by 12", don't heat but completely insulate the outside joist to the box.

[@david-breitenfeld]

i did this to my house. If you do this put your bed mattress on the floor, the heat will make the entire bed warm and cozy in the winter - win, win. You can thank me later ;)

[@Sashasdoc2]

Great video. Looking to do something similar in my crawl space and this had all the tips I was looking for. As to naming the roll carriage, two suggestions: The PEX Plexus, or The PEX Dispenser. Keep the great content coming!

[@Chris_at_Home]

Great video. I am getting ready to put hydronic heat in a duplex we have been building out of pocket for 9 years. There are full basements in both units. I was going to put in those Morris Beacon heaters, but I can handle this even at 70 yo.

[@Johnlee0513]

this is a fine example of how to do this task.....NOW..I see all the holes that must be drilled for the heat lines....What are the rules for "engineered floor joists"? near the rim joists? along with all the other stuff mounted to the ceiling such as ducts, piping and etc, It's all good when it not obstructed but OMG on an existing ceiling.

[@porqpine5]

Problem with this setup of pex tubing, is there's going to be a definite gradient from one end of the floor to the other. The water from the boiler is heating the first coils of pex first, then the next coils, etc. By the time it gets to the end of the loop, a significant amount of the available heat will have been extracted, leading you to a floor that goes from hot to cold (or warm, to less warm). When laying pex in a floor like this, you should be arranging your tubes in a |X|X|X|X|X format down the joists (criss-crossing at the end), with holes at each end, so one side of the joist has water closest to the supply, the other end has the equivalent closest to the return, resulting in more even heating.

[@ai4px]

You win the internet for the day !!

[@thelazyhiker3288]

Appreciate the comment. I am about to install underfloor radiant system like that in this video. All the videos I keep watching state to do what this young man did. I kept wondering why, that would mean it'll be warmest in the first bay and then cool down where it enters the last bay. I had wondered if that meant starting closets to the outside wall since that will be the coldest area and then end the run toward middle of room. Now I am curious if your method would distribute the heat evenly across the 300 ft.

[@porqpine5]

@@thelazyhiker3288 I replaced my furnace/radiator setup ~10 years ago, and have heated my entire home with pex radiant ever since. I'm in southern Ontario, so it gets cold (but not crazy cold, usually caps out around -15 to -20c), and my house is almost entirely spray foamed with 2LB closed cell foam. The floor heat is evenly distributed, but it's not uniform. To my surprise, you can notice the specific hot spots where maybe plates made better contact with the floor (IE: were pressed tight), and you can tell where maybe fewer distribution plates were run down a joist. If I was to do ti again, I'd add as many plates as possible. That said, having warmer and cooler spots hasn't been an issue, it's not very obvious to the touch, but my cat definitely has favourite spots to plop down. That said, a manifold with adjustment on each run, and one run per room, has been an absolute God-send. Some rooms you want to push more heat into (IE: the front entryway, bathroom, etc.), while others you want to push much less (bedrooms, nobody likes a warm bedroom). Don't skimp on that if you're doing any size of system!! Hope it helps :)

[@ip5232]

It is a very nice instructional video , however I saw one thing I need to share , and for personal experience, make sure the silicon you use it's comparable or use something else, reason been in a new construction, we had so many problems with areas that we discover that when silicon was in contact with the PEX and also with the new orange PVC for fire sprinkles , for some reason it had a chemical reaction and end up breaking or becoming weak or unglued , yes after many investigation that was sthe culprit , had to go to court to prove this things ,so be safe

[@markflanagan6653]

This kid does nice work. 👍

[@nemarec]

Great job man. It's good to see how you keep everything organized.

[@SailingCatamaranElement]

One of the better informative videos I have seen in a while....well done!

[@adicarevreasastie9612]

Great work, Benjamin. Thank you for sharing the information. God bless you.

[@jimpaulson1728]

Its for this reason, inefficiency, that i went with Ecowarm floor panels for my in-floor heating of the upper floor of my garage. I had the project panels layed down and secured, and the PEX tubes run in about 4hrs. AND the efficiency of the heat getting to the room is MUCH greater because the tubes are IN the floor and not UNDER the subfloor. UNDER means you need a hotter temp to heat the tubes, the aluminum flashing, then the 3/4 or greater subfloor, then FINALLY the heat get to the room. I like way much better...lol.

[@Mike588]

Made my own plates out of aluminum sofits each panel was 24 inches by 15 inches with two rounded channels for the pex. Twice the heat transfer and cheaper than those plates.

[@richiecapuccino9853]

How did you do it?

[@danielhall5364]

How about a video on installing radiant in old construction with 2x6 cross bracing. Great looking job. Well done

[@jimharris1590]

Well done---you made it simple!!!

[@thediamono]

Well done and informative. Wish I had seen this before completing a couple of rooms.

[@lulutileguy]

this is done in Alberta frequently as air is dry in winter they no like forced air

[@aqeilalrubaiai]

As manufactur recommend, why they keep the pipes 2-3 inches on cement floor but nothing on wood floor. You install it directly under the floor!.what about if the customer want to install a new subfloor in future for some reason it will damage all pipes and waste money. I think should install a protection metal plate or leave a gaps between the pipe and the floor around 1-2 inches to avoid any damage or issues. What do you think as manufactur recommend? Thanks .

[@NickMach007]

Very cool project. Looking forward to seeing more!

[@TomStrahle]

Great video. Liked and subbed.

[@genabrutskiy5708]

Great job viewing it properly.

[@ivancheitowskyj4323]

Great job on the video! I like the way you explain everything.

[@linedog19delta]

I enjoy your video , very professional . Thank you for sharing it .

[@dosiodosev740]

I am not going to try it but enjoy your meticulous style, thank you

[@shaner67]

Nicely done young man, well put together video..

[@WalnutsandWineberries]

Very nice presentation. Good job, Ben!

[@TruckHouseLife]

Awesome video dude! Thanks!

[@BenjaminSahlstrom]

Thanks! Have enjoyed your channel now and then by the way!

[@rockiewilmot9041]

I did runs no more then 250 ft, and nailed it on the side of the joists on 1 ft centers 2 ins down, so I didn't have to worry about nails going into it from above, and put 2×8 insulation underneath, and insulated all interior walls,

[@THEBOSS-vn2ky]

Thanks again for your time

[@johnfitbyfaithnet]

Great presentation very helpful and useful

[@doingtimeforsixty9]

Ben stellar tips once again!

[@stevehaken]

Nice video! I grew up in Slayton. Just a few miles from you! ;-)

[@BenjaminSahlstrom]

What! No way! That's awesome. Was just in Slayton at Bomgaars the other day. You still around the area?

[@stevehaken]

@@BenjaminSahlstrom I have been living in San Francisco Bay Area for the past 30 years. Engineering degree and Silicon Valley is the rest of the story.

[@elc2k385]

Very high quality video.

[@nieldcreek2098]

Excellent video! Would like to learn more about boiler options, particularly about electric boilers. Where I live natural gas is not available and propane keeps getting more and more expensive. Wood fired might also work but is more time consuming. I wonder if there is a hybrid wood fired with electric assist? If so, solar and/ or wind generated power could be used to assist the system. Once again great content!

[@gregwalthers3447]

If you have the land, horizontally bored geothermal loops as the source for a heat pump would be supet cost effective vs propane. You can run a hydronic loop off the heat pump

[@nieldcreek2098]

@@gregwalthers3447 thanks for the input! As a diy person I could sure use as much detail on the how to as much as possible. Thanks!

[@miavaughn2393]

@@nieldcreek2098 Depending on your climate though, an air to water heat pump would be much cheaper than geothermal with a COP VERY close to geothermal. If you are somewhere that gets VERY cold pretty often, i would do geothermal, but if you only occassionally get very cold, air to water or hydronic heat pumps could be a great solution. Only issue is there are few producers of these in the states. Spacepak seems to be the best. Geothermal i would say is only worth it compared to an air source heat pump if you often have extreme cold that a heat pump's performance would suffer.

[@LLCStreetwise]

I use a 50-gal hot water tank with an expansion tank and taco pump. I have it set on the lowest setting "A" and it keeps a 150 loop at 90ºF. I am adding 2 more 140' loops soon, so I imagine that I will need to turn it up a bit. I know it's a 'poor man's' setup, but it works like a champ.

[@Aaronmcgrattan]

Nice work man. Very well explained aswell

[@johnparkhurst825]

Great video. Going with 5/8 or3/4 pex sure looks enticing.

[@allanmurphy7474]

A dab of spray foam in holes helps with noise as well as protecting tubing as it goes through joists

[@rklauco]

So the name is clear - it must be Kaetlyn - based on ice figure skating Canadian champion Kaetlyn Osmond :) Those pirouettes are a way to go.

[@ranger178]

any heating system has conducted heat the pipe and plates touching floor, the convection of the hot air collecting up against the underside of floor rising up, and radiant heat. which is only a part of the heat going up through floor. my bathroom is heated with nothing but copper pipe up against wood no metal plates or insulation with 3/4 tongue and groove boards then plywood above it and linoleum tiles on floor above, but my system runs at whatever high temp my whole system is at for baseboard from 120 to 180 with high efficiency boiler so I didn't want my floor burning hot when barefoot out of shower I might add aluminum plates or insulation if we want more heat but i think this system you have there will be plenty warm

[@allstarheatingandcooling113]

3:14 I see a cooper hunter ahu mini split high static please make a video about that I would love to see

[@BenjaminSahlstrom]

It's in the queue!

[@justincrasi4638]

nice video! very clear and informative!

[@kirkevans9177]

Great video. Well done!

[@Brane_Ded]

Name suggestion: Spooly

[@ericsyre9418]

Thanks for all the info!

[@bp4170]

As always, great video!

[@hunts318]

Superbly presented, thank you.

[@edgarcornette6387]

Wonderful.. love to see it. beautiful install.

[@JoeWysocki-zk7qi]

Nice Job! Great video!

[@Reedith]

Very interesting didn't know this was an option. I have access to my basement or I could technically do my full house this way I wonder how efficient it is I would definitely stuff some rock wool under it and then probably air seal it

[@carabela125]

Spiralosaurus Pex

[@ManoloRalda]

Perhaps you can call it (him) Turner

[@svenwalker5955]

My main concern with this installation method is the risk of nails from the hardwood floor installation on a new build or renovation project puncturing the PEX piping. Many installers use wooden blocks instead on the underside of the floor and attach the pex to the blocks. Heat rises and will still heat the floor above even if the PEX piping is not touching the underside of the subfloor.

[@cfdtv1]

Great video, your very good with your explanation. Is there a reason you chose the omega channel instead of what he U channel?

[@anthonyaldridge]

My name suggestion Rolopex (Take on Rolodex)

[@lancerudy9934]

Great video 😊

[@chippydog2]

Hey Ben! Have you ever installed pex floor heat in a log home loft I believe I need to install T&G to provide a ceiling, then install joists to allow space for loft bathrooms, then a product such as warmboard so the pex tubes can be placed, followed by my finished flooring 😳

[@jimbrown1951]

You should only drill holes in the center of any joist and the size of the hole is governed by the size of the joist. Consult your building codes for the precise information.

[@FishFind3000]

Yea, holes cannot be any closer then 1/3 of the width of the board to the edge. Or they can’t be larger then 1/3 of the board. I can’t remember exactly but if you follow both you should be safe.

[@Chris_at_Home]

Usually the specifications also say the holes have to be near the center of the joist, not the upper or lower edge.

[@macthemec]

When your a plumber it doesn’t matter, the whole house can collapse, a slow bathtub drain is unacceptable

[@drooplug]

Holes need to be a minimum of 2" from the top and bottom edge, and no larger than 1/3 the width of the joist. His holes are correct.

[@kenjackson5938]

@@Chris_at_Home Actually Chris, although that would be best practice, the location of any holes is also dependent on the size of the holes. Small holes such as 1/2, or 3/4 that your electrician might drill can be much closer to the edges than you might think. And small holes you can drill dozens and dozens of, in “Relative” proximity to each other, without weakening the lumber. The larger the hole the closer to the center it has to be. The area where it become the most dangerous is closer to the bottom edge. When a joist is “working” the top plane is under compression, and the bottom edge is under tension. Holes right at the very top edge do very little to weaken the joist when in comparison to any hole at the bottom edge. When’s joist flexes under load, the bottom wants to stretch, and any hole here would be a stress point and “possibly “ lead to a stress crack. Some of these specs are in the lumber reference charts that architects use. I used to have them, but referenced them so infrequently, I lost them in my chaos. In this application I would have added at “least” one additional hole for the supply and return tubes, and leave the looping tubes to go through a separate hole. As the heating performance difference is negligible where all the crisis crossing takes place, it’s always best to look at what you can do to make installation easiest without comprising performance. So a good sized 1.5” hole for the loops, and a separate 1.5” hole 6” for the supply and return lines properly spaced will Not weaken the joist, and make life a hole (pun intended) lot easier. I’ve drilled thousands. Not trying to poop in your corn flakes, I just think information needs to be accurate for others to see.

[@PJ-uh8og]

Name your second person the name ROLLO‼️💪🏾👍🏾

[@douglaswindsor120]

Back when my brother had his house done it was a brand new idea and a brand new product solar roll tubing was put in a loop between each joist and attached to 3/4 copper headers each tube waa rubber about an inch in width two rubber tubes joined together with a rubber Web it was easy to install just staple the web to the bottom of the plywood floor and attach it to the copper headers each tube was attached so it was hooked up at the ends one side to the feed and one to the return so each side side flowed opposite ways that way each side had equal heat transfer but afterwards they realized that they had a lot of oxygen transfer into the water in the tube aluminum foil was installed between the joist and R12 fiber glass insulation installed below

[@we3k1ngs12]

We’ll done thanks !

[@jk15214]

Great video, not sure if I missed it or could not find, but what is the heat source for this system? Would love to see you do a video on Air to water Monoblock or a Heat Pump to indoor unit maybe even a hybrid Outdoor Heap pump to Coaxile exchanger to buffer tank?? Really like you video's.

[@danobrien155]

Sweet thanks 😊

[@timdiemer2017]

That snake is a sidewinder!

[@lonestar4721]

Should this be more efficient than baseboard? I understand the heat would be more even. Great vids, keep it up.

[@ncooty]

Your helper's name is obviously Lupe.

[@daddybear7062]

Name the spool Wheelyn

[@epoxyexpressions]

Do you have a video of a complete system? Showing what heating element you used.

[@naomisahlstrom]

It will be coming soon!

[@Machailey1]

Cool Spool!

[@brady0630]

awesome video

[@thenexthobby]

At 15:43 this is incorrect. Zurn tubing can be connected with cold expansion and it's 'B" tubing. Same goes for Sioux Chief "B" tubing. The reason why, is because both conform to ASTM F1960, the standard that describes the cold expansion connection method. PEX A vs B only describes the extrusion method of manufacture and has nothing to do with how it's connected necessarily. It's a very common misconception.

[@channelcatchaser9426]

Great job

[@007balzak]

Great video. QUESTION : can this set up be done on a crawl space in a freezing region???

[@FrustratedBaboon]

This is all nice and wonderful, now the flooring people have arrived to nail down an oak floor, how do you prevent a nail from the gun from piercing the PEX below?

[@newhampshirelifestyle4233]

Nice job!!

[@valkyriefrost5301]

The only down side I see here is the only contact points from the metal to the floor is at the staple points. The rest seems to "push away" from the sub-flooring making small air gaps that would significantly reduce conductive heat flow into the flooring above.

[@BenjaminSahlstrom]

True, more staples would help too I suppose.

[@YevZakharov]

You're probably splitting hairs at this point. The extra cost for something like Uponor Quick Trak sealant may not ever pay back dividends.

[@williamfall1262]

The holes should really be in the center of the beam as that is where the neutral axis is and zero stress. The stress varies linearly from the NA to the outer fibers of the beam ( top and bottom) resulting in either compressive or tensile stress in the beam.

[@timothyblazer1749]

Technically true, however as you can see, these joists are denser packed than standard, as well as resting on a hard sill plus the stiffening of the plywood sub floor above attached with fasteners. It's way stronger than it needs to be for this application so those holes placement shouldn't be any issue.

[@mattaudio]

I have this type of in-floor in my house, with separate thermostats for my in-floor to the 110v zone pump relay (a two-wire Honeywell dial) and a normal five wire thermostat for forced air/AC with backup heat strips. I want to run the in-floor as W1 and heat strips as W2 on the same thermostat, so I am considering a 24v-24v transformer to connect my primary thermostat W1 to the zone pump relay with transformer isolation, then switch the W wire back to the air handler control over to W2. Maybe a chance for a follow-up to your recent thermostat wiring vid on how to control radiant + backup heat from the same thermostat?

[@LightGesture]

Spyro, the Spool Tool.