How To Install Under Floor Radiant Tubing With Aluminum Omega Heat Transfer Plates Between Joists

[@NAVYABHAN]

When you discard the old ways of doing things,somehow we find ourselves back where we started from! What you are actually building and demonstrating is the Modern Day Version of the Radiator! Every room in our old house had a Radiator or two in every room that was heated with a Boiler that was usually in the Basement. Our Boiler was Coal Fired🔥

[@handstwister]

Young man your ever evolving skill set is more impressive with each new project. It’s a pleasure to see such a smart hard working young man especially in todays setting.

[@EvanDinelli]

Can't wait to see the boiler hook-up video next!

[@DontTellMeMore]

Great job, a Benjamin saving all of us Benjamins. Thank you. May I add. Best practice for zero noise, staple only one side of the plate. Staple double bubble with foil on both sides insulation across the I or open joist 1 ½ inch top member for a 1 ½ inch air gap. This floor will require a higher design water temperature to produce the same BTUs as an in-bedded system. Example: concrete 110f and staple up 140f for climate zone 4. Use the return water temperature of this zone to feed a zone requiring less temperature Use software like LoopCad or a manual calculation for heat loss. Radiant heat, preparing you for living in hell where there are no cold spots just total comfort (lol) Yes, warmer than hell and you are never going back.

[@Leonbartolome]

It’s satisfying to see such a clean installation

[@bbygtr9500]

..this kid is good for the homeowner trying to save some money 💰 .. .thanks kid 🤙

[@jadesprite]

The cute little animations during installation REALLY set this video above and beyond for assisting DIY jobs. Thank you so much!

[@TheDirtyBirchTrails]

OMG I've installed so much of this type of radiant heating system. I Find it way more productive to leave the PEX in a straight line from the roll instead pre-looping it like you do in between every cavity. This way I don't have to go back and pull every cavity to feed whatever loop I'm currently working on. Try it you will save many hours !!

[@dannybatie3285]

Do you have a video of your technique? I would like to see how that’s done. What is the best way to run a thermostat on these types of installs?

[@jaysmith201]

The "Pexnado" PEX Tubing Unroller, is a super helpful tool.

[@billbrooks7911]

Great job. Trusting I didn’t miss this but you may want to add that when possible the runs first coming from the heat source should be focussed on the coldest parts of the floor example the extremities so for instance your greatest heat is not in the middle of the floor where it gets too hot

[@dccooper1211]

Cool! I've had the chance to install this type of radiant heat with accessories and over the years of installation of boilers etc I've found "poor-overs" are much easier and way more efficient. Nice work! Hated loading my uncoiler lol.... I'm now becoming a mechanical engineer at 45 years young.... Hard work and good work ethics pay off💯 keep it up!

[@nickishungry]

You mentioned pour overs are way more efficient. I've got some questions if you don't mind. With the underfloor heat, I guess you have a layer of plywood to get through, so would be slower to get to temperature, and it wouldn't retain and disperse the heat as well as concrete. But even so, I assume that most of the heat is not totally 'lost', but is still staying in the house and eventually will be dispersed into the room. Is that correct? I'm guessing that you risk losing some heat to adjacent areas, like the room below (which may or may not be desirable), or even to outside walls, but maybe these could be mitigated to some extent with proper insulation? Is there anything I'm missing or misunderstanding? I'm just trying to understand the pros and cons a little better for a situation where there is already a finished floor that I would prefer not to destroy.

[@JayPoe80]

Thanks for the vid! Going to get rid of the baseboard heat in my 100+ year old house. Showing how to loop the runs is very helpful. Thanks!!!

[@teejay622]

As usual, great video Ben. I did mine exactly like this. If I had it to do all over again, I think I may have done it differently though. Each of my zones, done in this manner, really suffer from thermal loss across the floor of each room. What I mean by that is that the side of the room where the loops begin is always substantially warmer than the far side. I think when I do the next rooms, rather than running the tube into the cavity and down and back, and then into the next cavity, like you've done in this video and like I did in all of my other rooms, I will run the tubes into the cavity, down to the end and then into the next cavity - having a single tube in each cavity all the way to the far end of the room and then run the tube back through in the same manner, ending up with 2 tubes per cavity like your method here but, unlike this method, the heat should be much more evenly distributed throughout the room rather than having a hot side and a cooler side of the floor. Has anyone ever done it that way and if so, did it do what I'm hoping it will do? What's your opinion on this Ben? Either way, this video is yet another example of your excellent teaching talent. You always explain things in such a way that anyone can understand it. That is a true gift. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. Even at 430K+ subs, I think your channel is seriously underrated. Thanks again. Be well.

[@0my]

Have you tried reversing the flow (swapping the tubes at the manifold) so that the hottest section of pex goes first to the exterior side of the zone (coolest section of the room)?

[@FixthisCD]

I would make gauge for marking your holes. just a piece of plywood/ 2x4 to stick into the corner to quickly mark your centers.

[@BenjaminSahlstrom]

That would be faster probably.

[@ChileExpatFamily]

Hello from Chile Ben! I have radiant heating here in my house that I installed and I love it. I came to your video so that I could get an update on the correct installation process. I could not find the OMEGA Plates here in Chile years ago. So I had to use multiple clips which was not the best but it is still effective. Thanks for the video. Very good explanation. Here I use a wood boiler to heat my water. It works well. Thanks again Ben. Jim in Chile.

[@jamespiazza7753]

Awesome video. Great explanation. Straightforward, clear and and the appropriate amount of information.

[@richdobbs6595]

I used these plates to radiant heat the tile floor in the kitchen when I was finishing off the basement below. Then on top of the slab in the basement I used some plastic spacers designed for radiant heating. On top of this was a cement board underlayment for a tile floor or a plywood subfloor for the basement bedroom that was carpeted. I used 300 foot rolls, and due to the size involved all of the loops ended up somewhere around 250 feet. I used a really cheap corded electrical stapler, and afterwards drove any staples that were sitting proud in with a tap of a hammer. With the basement layout, I didn't have to drill any holes through the joists for the radiant floor because the loops were in an area that was going to be left as an unfinished storage room, and the other ends of the loops were mostly beneath the kitchen cabinets. This was circa 2006. It's interesting that the process and material is pretty much unchanged from that time.

[@oby-1607]

The only tools we use is the good ol red and black Milwaukee. Never stops working. The staple idea is a good one. Wish I saw this video as we did this very same job on an addition.

[@jimalton1564]

Great video. We installed radiant under floor heating in our new construction (basement and ground floor) several years ago and love it. Insulating below the floor after install is critical. Because our home still has some work left to do (we built it ourselves) we haven't insulated below the flooring yet and find that the ground floor zone ends up working extra hard and the basement zone doesn't contribute as much, due to the ground floor heat radiating to both the ground floor (through the flooring) and the basement by radiating down. It has no problem heating the house, but it will be much more effective once I insulate between the floor joists.

[@jagzigian]

BRO!!! Been in business doing changeouts and ductless. I decided we try our first radiant floor. It turned out amazing. Your video was impeccable.

[@paulking6153]

Ben, really really great job with this video. AAA+++ You tone, delivery, speed... quality of info. You're pro my friend. Thank you so much, learned what I need to learn in order to make what is a pain the ass much easier! hahahha. Have a great day / week ahead!

[@LadyK_]

Great video and clear explanation. Having one installed now, after the electric one I had installed last year never worked (contractor claimed he tested it, but apparently not, so lots of money wasted on my part). Praying this works. Tired of spewing money.

[@esneeze]

There is a argument that the heat transfer plates are not needed due to the nature of the floor assembly being saturated with heat and the slow nature of heating the system. Great job on the install. Nice video.

[@davidgrisco1939]

Agreed. I installed yrs ago in a new house. Read the pros and cons of transfer plates. Decided not to use. No noise. Even heat. Must keep set temp, no set back. Takes time to both heat up AND cool down. Best even, quiet heat.

[@adamenstrom]

Yup. Plates are pointless

[@richdobbs6595]

​@@adamenstrom I would think that depends on how much heat you are trying to transfer and how much floor area you have to transfer it. If you don't use the plates, how do folks hold the PEX in place? I used the plates based on the research that I did at that time, but that was 18 years ago.

[@chrised1115]

​@richdobbs6595 Mine are held in place with 1/2" half opened holding clips that secure to the sub floor with provided nails. The way mine was done was definitely half assed though and I plan on adding more of those clips when I redo my insulation. When budget allows, I would like to redo everything with the plates eventually.

[@TruckHouseLife]

Awesome video dude! Thanks!

[@BenjaminSahlstrom]

Thanks! Have enjoyed your channel now and then by the way!

[@robindenbeste4655]

NOT ALL TYPES OF WOOD FLOORS ARE COMPATIBLE WITH UNDERFLOOR HEATING. THANK YOU FOR PASSING IT FORWARD.

[@paulmaxwell8851]

I've installed many, and never come across a wood floor that was somehow incompatible. My last job was in my own house, and I had prefinished solid maple. These systems are lower in efficiency, but work well regardless.

[@robindenbeste4655]

@@paulmaxwell8851 I HAVE. TRUE STATEMENT. HAPPY HALLYDAY'S 😊

[@YevZakharov]

More of a "Warranty" issue than a real issue.

[@TomStrahle]

Great video. Liked and subbed.

[@jimharris1590]

Well done---you made it simple!!!

[@jeremypittman1697]

Code is not opinion. In Canada 1 inch hole has to be 12" from any load bearing wall and 12" per inch in hole size there after to a maximum of 1/3 of joist size. ( 3 1/4" hole in 2x10, (9 1/2") Neat product and work.

[@markflanagan6653]

This kid does nice work. 👍

[@scottcarruthers3807]

Benjamin, Came across your video as I am looking into adding this type of system into my finished cottage. I would need to be installing from our crawl space (totally dry as when we built we sprayed the ground a min of 4'' and all up the walls and roof) We should have added infloor heat mats when we tiled, but we didn't and now looking to add this system. I found your video to be VERY useful on how to plan and install this system! So please, Continue to make more videos. Your descriptions are done incredibly well. Cheers,

[@doingtimeforsixty9]

Ben stellar tips once again!

[@SailingCatamaranElement]

One of the better informative videos I have seen in a while....well done!

[@adicarevreasastie9612]

Great work, Benjamin. Thank you for sharing the information. God bless you.

[@WalnutsandWineberries]

Very nice presentation. Good job, Ben!

[@shaner67]

Nicely done young man, well put together video..

[@nemarec]

Great job man. It's good to see how you keep everything organized.

[@ChuckKarl525]

Great video! Several years ago I raised a sunken living room floor to the same level as the rest of the main floor level using 2x8 joists. Because the living room was a converted single stall garage, I couldn't access the joist bays from below. So, after friction fitting batt insulation plus a one inch layer of foil backed rigid insulation in the joist bays, I notched each joist from the top and stapled the heat transfer plates transvers to the joists. After snapping the pex into place in the same pattern that you are showing here, I installed the sheathing to complete the upgrade. Also, I used a big black marker to map the tubing below, then wrote a note to beware of what is below. To do it all over again, I would have spaced the initial (4) runs of tubing 6" OC along both exterior walls first, then continue in the field. At -40 in Fairbanks, the entire floor is nicely warm on the feet, but there is a slight cool convection dropping down from above at the walls where a couch or chair may be located. Note that my home has R 38 walls and an R50 lid but placing the heat nearest to the heat loss will make for a more comfortable space. Once again, great job on the video.

[@paulhoekstra7569]

You notched the joist! Now they are 2x6's.

[@ChuckKarl525]

@@paulhoekstra7569 yep, but they are completely supported by the conc slab that they are sitting on. Agree that notching is not good for a free span joist.

[@paulhoekstra7569]

@@ChuckKarl525 Now I understand. I missed a couple words in your note. I think I started in at the second sentence. Have a great day.

[@ChuckKarl525]

@@paulhoekstra7569 you have a great day as well.

[@tcap7917]

Nice work. Making the holes bigger as you suggest is the best advice. I fought with a lot of pex because of this. The twist and pull is the method I use instead of having all those loops hanging and feeding. Its way faster and reduces the chance of kinking. You could've heated up that kink if it wasn't too bad. Always have a plan drawing for the routing this way you can combine some shorter loops with potential longer loops. It's easier to balance out the loops on paper first. I have done 1/2" 350' runs without issues but I do planning to stay below 300' Design the flow to heat from the outside in and keep off the outside wall by 12", don't heat but completely insulate the outside joist to the box.

[@LeeADKMOBILEMILLING]

What a great video. I had to look through a 100 videos before. I found one that made sense

[@Sashasdoc2]

Great video. Looking to do something similar in my crawl space and this had all the tips I was looking for. As to naming the roll carriage, two suggestions: The PEX Plexus, or The PEX Dispenser. Keep the great content coming!

[@ivancheitowskyj4323]

Great job on the video! I like the way you explain everything.

[@danielhall5364]

How about a video on installing radiant in old construction with 2x6 cross bracing. Great looking job. Well done

[@Chris_at_Home]

Great video. I am getting ready to put hydronic heat in a duplex we have been building out of pocket for 9 years. There are full basements in both units. I was going to put in those Morris Beacon heaters, but I can handle this even at 70 yo.

[@Aaronmcgrattan]

Nice work man. Very well explained aswell

[@elc2k385]

Very high quality video.

[@mwood996]

Hey Ben! Great informative video. Was wondering if you have help on the best material to use for insulating between the joists in a rough unfinished basement. Thanks

[@Johnlee0513]

this is a fine example of how to do this task.....NOW..I see all the holes that must be drilled for the heat lines....What are the rules for "engineered floor joists"? near the rim joists? along with all the other stuff mounted to the ceiling such as ducts, piping and etc, It's all good when it not obstructed but OMG on an existing ceiling.

[@allstarheatingandcooling113]

3:14 I see a cooper hunter ahu mini split high static please make a video about that I would love to see

[@BenjaminSahlstrom]

It's in the queue!

[@NickMach007]

Very cool project. Looking forward to seeing more!

[@linedog19delta]

I enjoy your video , very professional . Thank you for sharing it .

[@johnfitbyfaithnet]

Great presentation very helpful and useful

[@TheMityquin]

In a few years when this young man graduates hs, his father is going to have to pay him whatever he asks for. He's incredibly knowledgeable.

[@cfdtv1]

Great video, your very good with your explanation. Is there a reason you chose the omega channel instead of what he U channel?

[@jkbrown5496]

I always like the standard name "Spinning Jenny" used in fencing. Come from the thread spinning of old.

[@tomlampros7122]

I was going to suggest Spinning Tubing Unroller (STU), but Jenny is the more traditional name!

[@bp4170]

As always, great video!

[@porqpine5]

Problem with this setup of pex tubing, is there's going to be a definite gradient from one end of the floor to the other. The water from the boiler is heating the first coils of pex first, then the next coils, etc. By the time it gets to the end of the loop, a significant amount of the available heat will have been extracted, leading you to a floor that goes from hot to cold (or warm, to less warm). When laying pex in a floor like this, you should be arranging your tubes in a |X|X|X|X|X format down the joists (criss-crossing at the end), with holes at each end, so one side of the joist has water closest to the supply, the other end has the equivalent closest to the return, resulting in more even heating.

[@ai4px]

You win the internet for the day !!

[@thelazyhiker3288]

Appreciate the comment. I am about to install underfloor radiant system like that in this video. All the videos I keep watching state to do what this young man did. I kept wondering why, that would mean it'll be warmest in the first bay and then cool down where it enters the last bay. I had wondered if that meant starting closets to the outside wall since that will be the coldest area and then end the run toward middle of room. Now I am curious if your method would distribute the heat evenly across the 300 ft.

[@porqpine5]

@@thelazyhiker3288 I replaced my furnace/radiator setup ~10 years ago, and have heated my entire home with pex radiant ever since. I'm in southern Ontario, so it gets cold (but not crazy cold, usually caps out around -15 to -20c), and my house is almost entirely spray foamed with 2LB closed cell foam. The floor heat is evenly distributed, but it's not uniform. To my surprise, you can notice the specific hot spots where maybe plates made better contact with the floor (IE: were pressed tight), and you can tell where maybe fewer distribution plates were run down a joist. If I was to do ti again, I'd add as many plates as possible. That said, having warmer and cooler spots hasn't been an issue, it's not very obvious to the touch, but my cat definitely has favourite spots to plop down. That said, a manifold with adjustment on each run, and one run per room, has been an absolute God-send. Some rooms you want to push more heat into (IE: the front entryway, bathroom, etc.), while others you want to push much less (bedrooms, nobody likes a warm bedroom). Don't skimp on that if you're doing any size of system!! Hope it helps :)

[@ip5232]

It is a very nice instructional video , however I saw one thing I need to share , and for personal experience, make sure the silicon you use it's comparable or use something else, reason been in a new construction, we had so many problems with areas that we discover that when silicon was in contact with the PEX and also with the new orange PVC for fire sprinkles , for some reason it had a chemical reaction and end up breaking or becoming weak or unglued , yes after many investigation that was sthe culprit , had to go to court to prove this things ,so be safe

[@justincrasi4638]

nice video! very clear and informative!

[@THEBOSS-vn2ky]

Thanks again for your time

[@lisasicecream8916]

Great job. Very helpful video. I am currently installing a similar system. However, I have had poor luck with the stapler Ben is using. I am driving them into Advantec subflooring and I would guess every other staple misfires and folds up and falls on the floor. I have gone to a 1/4 " narrow crown stapler and it works very well. MZog

[@david-breitenfeld]

i did this to my house. If you do this put your bed mattress on the floor, the heat will make the entire bed warm and cozy in the winter - win, win. You can thank me later ;)

[@민항기-c6l]

뛰어난 기술을 습득하고 계십니다. 눈이 호강했습니다. 다음 영상도 기대 합니다~~

[@wadevanbuskirk234]

Nice. I think I might try it. Seems like I could create each bay loop, grab and twist pull and staple, one at a time, rather than constantly feeding and maintaining all the little intermediate loops.

[@samuelkingentrepreneur]

Very good work on the video and very informative. I just put this into my house. I retrofitted underneath with the 1 inch boards and then hardwood on top of that. During this most recent cold snap the system couldn’t keep up. I still have not insulated between the joists. My question is will insulation make a drastic difference. I have a friend who set his system up almost identical to mine and he didn’t insulate in order to heat his basement as well. His system keeps up fine. I’m wondering if it’s an issue that there’s at least 1 3/4 inches of subfloor or should that not make a difference?

[@brianorr4919]

Hey man. This video was remarkably good. Thank you so much. My wife and I purchased a 1920 English Tudor home in the historic neighborhood of Indianapolis. We are spending an arm and a leg gutting the place and installing all new mechanicals. We put a geothermal system in as well as tankless heaters and spray foam, etc., etc. After we move in, I was thinking about doing this through our unfinished basement. However, our first floor has a lot of construction from the 1920s with marble floors And many of the Joyce cavities are 12 inches rather than 16 inches on center. Do you think that this system can work knowing the cavities are only about 10’’ wide?

[@BenjaminSahlstrom]

I wouldn't be concerned about the closer spacing. Should work perfectly fine. Hope your project goes well!

[@lulutileguy]

this is done in Alberta frequently as air is dry in winter they no like forced air

[@mister_syre]

Thanks for all the info!

[@thediamono]

Well done and informative. Wish I had seen this before completing a couple of rooms.

[@hunts318]

Superbly presented, thank you.

[@lancerudy9934]

Great video 😊

[@beesonman05]

Great Video!! well explained and detailed. question. If you have I-Joist on 16" centers could you run bigger tubing and just one tube down the middle instead of two tubes? Maybe 5/8?

[@edgarcornette6387]

Wonderful.. love to see it. beautiful install.

[@rockiewilmot9041]

I did runs no more then 250 ft, and nailed it on the side of the joists on 1 ft centers 2 ins down, so I didn't have to worry about nails going into it from above, and put 2×8 insulation underneath, and insulated all interior walls,

[@jimpaulson1728]

Its for this reason, inefficiency, that i went with Ecowarm floor panels for my in-floor heating of the upper floor of my garage. I had the project panels layed down and secured, and the PEX tubes run in about 4hrs. AND the efficiency of the heat getting to the room is MUCH greater because the tubes are IN the floor and not UNDER the subfloor. UNDER means you need a hotter temp to heat the tubes, the aluminum flashing, then the 3/4 or greater subfloor, then FINALLY the heat get to the room. I like way much better...lol.

[@fryloc359]

How well does this actually heat? It would be nice to use this to evenly distribute heat in my house, since the bedrooms always seems to be cold. I wonder if I could use my water heater instead of a boiler...

[@Mike588]

Made my own plates out of aluminum sofits each panel was 24 inches by 15 inches with two rounded channels for the pex. Twice the heat transfer and cheaper than those plates.

[@richiecapuccino9853]

How did you do it?

[@epoxyexpressions]

Do you have a video of a complete system? Showing what heating element you used.

[@naomisahlstrom]

It will be coming soon!

[@JoeWysocki-zk7qi]

Nice Job! Great video!

[@FrustratedBaboon]

This is all nice and wonderful, now the flooring people have arrived to nail down an oak floor, how do you prevent a nail from the gun from piercing the PEX below?

[@jk15214]

Great video, not sure if I missed it or could not find, but what is the heat source for this system? Would love to see you do a video on Air to water Monoblock or a Heat Pump to indoor unit maybe even a hybrid Outdoor Heap pump to Coaxile exchanger to buffer tank?? Really like you video's.

[@jimbrown1951]

You should only drill holes in the center of any joist and the size of the hole is governed by the size of the joist. Consult your building codes for the precise information.

[@FishFind3000]

Yea, holes cannot be any closer then 1/3 of the width of the board to the edge. Or they can’t be larger then 1/3 of the board. I can’t remember exactly but if you follow both you should be safe.

[@Chris_at_Home]

Usually the specifications also say the holes have to be near the center of the joist, not the upper or lower edge.

[@macthemec]

When your a plumber it doesn’t matter, the whole house can collapse, a slow bathtub drain is unacceptable

[@drooplug]

Holes need to be a minimum of 2" from the top and bottom edge, and no larger than 1/3 the width of the joist. His holes are correct.

[@kenjackson5938]

@@Chris_at_Home Actually Chris, although that would be best practice, the location of any holes is also dependent on the size of the holes. Small holes such as 1/2, or 3/4 that your electrician might drill can be much closer to the edges than you might think. And small holes you can drill dozens and dozens of, in “Relative” proximity to each other, without weakening the lumber. The larger the hole the closer to the center it has to be. The area where it become the most dangerous is closer to the bottom edge. When a joist is “working” the top plane is under compression, and the bottom edge is under tension. Holes right at the very top edge do very little to weaken the joist when in comparison to any hole at the bottom edge. When’s joist flexes under load, the bottom wants to stretch, and any hole here would be a stress point and “possibly “ lead to a stress crack. Some of these specs are in the lumber reference charts that architects use. I used to have them, but referenced them so infrequently, I lost them in my chaos. In this application I would have added at “least” one additional hole for the supply and return tubes, and leave the looping tubes to go through a separate hole. As the heating performance difference is negligible where all the crisis crossing takes place, it’s always best to look at what you can do to make installation easiest without comprising performance. So a good sized 1.5” hole for the loops, and a separate 1.5” hole 6” for the supply and return lines properly spaced will Not weaken the joist, and make life a hole (pun intended) lot easier. I’ve drilled thousands. Not trying to poop in your corn flakes, I just think information needs to be accurate for others to see.

[@stevehaken]

Nice video! I grew up in Slayton. Just a few miles from you! ;-)

[@BenjaminSahlstrom]

What! No way! That's awesome. Was just in Slayton at Bomgaars the other day. You still around the area?

[@stevehaken]

@@BenjaminSahlstrom I have been living in San Francisco Bay Area for the past 30 years. Engineering degree and Silicon Valley is the rest of the story.

[@genabrutskiy5708]

Great job viewing it properly.

[@francismallard5892]

Great vide, this is exactly what I want to do to my house as a retrofit. However, the house was built in 1960 and the main floor has 1” hardwood oak strips. So the underside (where I’ll be installing the pex) has about a billion tiny nail points protruding. Do I grind them all off? The floors squeak so ideally I’d like to replace the subfloor with plywood (it currently is the old 5” planks). Can I tear up the oak flooring, tear up the planks, put down plywood (with construction adhesive and screws) and then…glue the hardwood flooring back down?

[@007balzak]

Great video. QUESTION : can this set up be done on a crawl space in a freezing region???

[@kirkevans9177]

Great video. Well done!

[@mattaudio]

I have this type of in-floor in my house, with separate thermostats for my in-floor to the 110v zone pump relay (a two-wire Honeywell dial) and a normal five wire thermostat for forced air/AC with backup heat strips. I want to run the in-floor as W1 and heat strips as W2 on the same thermostat, so I am considering a 24v-24v transformer to connect my primary thermostat W1 to the zone pump relay with transformer isolation, then switch the W wire back to the air handler control over to W2. Maybe a chance for a follow-up to your recent thermostat wiring vid on how to control radiant + backup heat from the same thermostat?

[@ranger178]

any heating system has conducted heat the pipe and plates touching floor, the convection of the hot air collecting up against the underside of floor rising up, and radiant heat. which is only a part of the heat going up through floor. my bathroom is heated with nothing but copper pipe up against wood no metal plates or insulation with 3/4 tongue and groove boards then plywood above it and linoleum tiles on floor above, but my system runs at whatever high temp my whole system is at for baseboard from 120 to 180 with high efficiency boiler so I didn't want my floor burning hot when barefoot out of shower I might add aluminum plates or insulation if we want more heat but i think this system you have there will be plenty warm

[@newhampshirelifestyle4233]

Nice job!!

[@LightGesture]

Thats a lotta work

[@MannistoCay]

Excellent video, thank you, and subscribed.

[@Machailey1]

Cool Spool!

[@LLCStreetwise]

You mentioned some sort of friction sleeve at the 11:22mark but didn't list that in the description. Could you do that? Thanks.

[@kenchrapko3697]

Nice work, did you fail to show how you would approach the return of that run before you hit the 300' mark ?

[@chippydog2]

Hey Ben! Have you ever installed pex floor heat in a log home loft I believe I need to install T&G to provide a ceiling, then install joists to allow space for loft bathrooms, then a product such as warmboard so the pex tubes can be placed, followed by my finished flooring 😳

[@brady0630]

awesome video

[@Joe-wy2bn]

Is it necessary to drill holes in the joists if the pex will be in a crawlspace and out of sight? Thanks.

[@danobrien155]

Sweet thanks 😊

[@meangreencarpetcleaners3558]

Can you upsize your supply and return runs to make up for distance?

[@dosiodosev740]

I am not going to try it but enjoy your meticulous style, thank you