Best ESC for Micro Crawlers

Test of winner ESCs: 0:53:30 , test of all trucks with stock ESCs: 0:05:57, test of all ESCs: 0:32:55
This is part 2 with tests of numerous stock ESCs of 1/24 - 1/18 trucks (SCX24, CR-18, CR-24, Panda Hobby, Atlas 6x6, Katana, Patrion, Mini-Z 4x4, RC4WD 1/18, RGT, ...) and tests of 8 small brushed potential upgrade ESCs and the Hobbywing Quicrun 1080 as reference in a SCX24 and a CR-18 chassis.
Part 1 (measurement of Amp-draw): • Best ESC for Micro Cra...
List of all ESCs tested in this video:
WINNER:
AS12/6RW Easy ESC: 2-3s, 6 A constant, 10 A peak, no BEC, 18 kHz PWM (no noise), no wires (used in my tests, Made in Germany):
www.modellbau-...
Pack of 6: www.modellbau-...
AS12/6RW Easy with wires:
www.modellbau-...
WINNER:
AS12/15RW BEC ESC: 2-3s, 15 A constant, 20 A peak, BEC 1 A, 18 kHz PWM (no noise), WATERPROOF (wrong info in video), Made in Germany:
www.modellbau-...
AS12/15 RW BEC EASY (WATERPROOF, with auto-calibration, not used in my tests):
www.modellbau-...
Further ESCs tested in this video:
DumboRC ESC, 10 A, BEC 6 V, with (light-)switch Ch3 and low voltage buzzer (if link should not work anymore, search on Aliexpress or Ebay)
www.banggood.c...
Hobbywing Quicrun WP-1625
25 A, 2 - 3s, BEC 5 V, 1 A, waterproof, no crawler mode
www.d-m-t.at/e...
hobbyking.com/...
www.asiatees.c...
Orlandoo ESC:
2s, 4.8 - 9.6 V, 5 A
www.banggood.c...
Turbo Racing TB-60025
25 A, 1-2 s, waterproof, boat, brake and crawler mode, BEC 1 A 6 V
www.asiatees.c...
www.banggood.c...
www.asiatees.c...
“Brushed ESC Cheapos”:
Yellow (No brake): 2s, 10 (15) A, BEC 5 V, 1 A
www.banggood.c...
Blue (with brake): 2s, 10 A, BEC 5 V, 1 A
www.banggood.c...
Red 20 A, 2s, 20 A, brake
www.banggood.c...
Hobbywing Quicrun WP 1080:
D-M-T (Austria): www.d-m-t.at/e...
Asiatees: www.asiatees.c...
RCMart: www.rcmart.com...
Hobbyking: hobbyking.com/...
Banggood: www.banggood.c...
RECEIVER (4 ch, waterproof) binding with all those RtR radios from Hobby Plus, RocHobby, FMS Atlas, RGT 1/24: www.banggood.c...

[@donaldsneffe]

BEC for AS12/6RW: You can use any BEC with appropriate voltage (5 - 6 V), there are countless, 1 A is sufficient. I showed the small "Matek Micro BEC" in the video. I got it from Ali, but you can also get it from Amazon, Banggood, Ebay and if you do not want to order from China even locally, for example at modell-hubschrauber.at in my city, in several FPV shops in Germany, and for sure in most other countries too. Simply search for "Matek Micro BEC".

[@bipantera]

Dear donaldsneffe. I see your video. I've been abducted by your gentle voicee and competence. I would like to take direct contact with you because maybe you can help me with my ESC on SCX24. I would like to try everything possible bofore change electronics. I think you have the competences to help me instead of those people loding the true like gurus but the even not understand the problems. Could I take a direct dialog? Tjhanks in advance in the case.

[@donaldsneffe]

@@bipantera Hi, if you are on forums (RCgroups, rccrawler, rockcrawler) you can PM me there, my username it the channel name - if not, write down your email here (you can delete it afterwards) and I will write you an email, or my email should even be here on YT on "channel information" or something likt this. But I am not a SCX24 specialist - there are probably better ones ;-)

[@bipantera]

@@donaldsneffe thank you very much. Maybe not a SCX24 expert but ESC expert I think and or maybe you know someone kind like you which is expert with SCX24 ESC. I look to channel information and write an email. Because the problem is short to describe (the esc start flashing after 5/6 sec) and motor stop working while steers and leds are still working. Tried with different batteries, different motors, different radios (we have a couple of them) but the whole story on how I get there is longer. Thanks for your kindness I'll write to you by email this evening and attaching a video. Maybe you can help me me to save money. Thanks again.

[@bipantera]

@@donaldsneffe I was filming for you and send the email but, what a silly I am, I inserted the battery plug in to the motor and motor plug in to the battery and I accelerate. An explosion and smoke follows (a splinter also hurt me on face!) So is done. Do you have any suggestion to not spend 30 euros for a new receiver/esc? Thanks for help :) I'm really not expert in radios receiver and esc. I heard very good feedback about Dumbo RC

[@donaldsneffe]

@@bipantera Oh, what a pity! Get well soon! The cheap DumboRC ESC is awesome value for the money, and really ok. You will probably have to buy a new radio if you do honly have the SCX24 radio, and this comes with a receiver. DumboRC is good, but also the small TurboRacing radios are quite nice. Check my video list, I did review several.

[@mehimrc1314]

I was given your channel link by a friend Geoffrey McEvoy, I must admit I've never sat and been completely amazed since i watched Geoff and his TRX4 gear box video. I think your work is impeccable and 100% the best information for these cars. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos and respect for shouting out the guys who helped you. We all help each other in the end, nice to see people recognised for their effort.

[@stevewatts3502]

Dangit, was happy pootling along with my inadequate escs and mildly jarring melodies. Great info, truely eye opening... thanks. Oh, & my X01 (er, & all my future builds) thank you.

[@MangoJim90]

Good day!!! Today I tried my quicrun 1080 in my rgt adventure v2; set it up with the program card the way I think it will work the best....and, really!! The car moves so slow like the winner esc in this video. Quicrun 1080 for me is the best choice because I can't order the germans esc 🎉🤭👍 Thanks a lot for this info!!

[@donaldsneffe]

You can also try the new and super cheap ISDT ESC70 and the "China clone" (made videos about both), also very good low speed performance, but large compared to the "German ESCs". And the Furitek ESCs (which were not released at the time I made this video) do also have very good slow speed modulation with brushed ESCs and are super small. BTW: The German shop ships worldwide ;-) Have fun!

[@MangoJim90]

@@donaldsneffe 👋👍 I don't know if they would ship to Russia today. I should check. Thanks for the info!!!🙌🔥🎉🥳

[@whoboo7]

Been waiting for a video like that! Thank you for doing it! I need the as12/15rw now! And many of them please!

[@dontdoit6403]

You saved me a monster headache.. thanks

[@gmcevoy]

Hello! Just a quick word to let you know how interesting I find your content. I have bought AS12/15 RW BEC EASY to fit in my Rochobby Katana thanks to your input. Without it, I would never have found an alternative, and would be deaf by the loud stock ESC. So thank you for that. I will be adding active suspension to it, and post a review about the rig on my channel. Thanks again, and keep doing what you do, it is fantastic. Thank you.

[@donaldsneffe]

Thank you! The AS12/15 works very well, but unfortunately the BEC is bad. You will not have any problems in the Katana, but maybe if you use it with more powerhungry servos. I tried it in my Capo 1/18 with a very powerhungry (heli-)servo and it shut down. Then I asked the company what the problem could be, and they told me, that they know that the BEC is bad and weak, only delivers less than 1 A, even if the chip is rated for 2 A, and the ESC will shut down and re-initialisize if there is too much power demand. That's quite a bummer, was quite upset because of this (because I bought a couple of AS12/15 and intended to use those in larger WPL and MN trucks). So if you wanna use an AS12/15 in larger setups, you should also use a small external BEC (what is not a big deal, at least for me - if I know this before). This ESC is already super old, many years... that is what Modellbau-Regler.de told me. They plan to develope a new model... however, I am "not happy", think, it is not ok how they describe this ESC (BEC 2 A). Also did have some problems with the Volksregler (the ESC DIY kit), which does not work with the Flysky Noble (but does work with all my other radios). Discussed this with Modellbau-Regler.de, we could not find a solution or reason, why this ESC (and only this model) does not work with the Noble (AS6/12 and 12/15 work), it is also already a very old design. So, this company is not perfect, either. I am a little bit upset. All those ESCs were developed for ships and construction models and not for micro RC trucks (and the company does not seem to have a lot of interest in the micro-crawler scene; if they would be Chinese, they would already have made a "SCX24 ESC" now and sell it like hot cakes ;-) - as Furitek does. BTW: I do have a lot of problems with my Furitek Lizard ESCs... brushless and brushed setups, ... but propaganda says, it is a "gamechanger" ;-) ). But still a super big fan of the AS12/6, the small ESC without BEC, awesome! The 12/15 works awesome, too... But keep in mind the weak BEC if you intend to use it in larger models.

[@gmcevoy]

@@donaldsneffe Thanks for the extra info. Duly noted. I agree that if they market SCX24 ESC's as such, they would sell really well. I am new to the small scale world, as I come from the 1/10 scene. I have a Traxxas TRX-4 which I have crammed to the roof with upgrades. I have developed the gearbox so it could contain automotive gear oil, and it even has a micro-pump to circulate the fluid, also serving as a motor cooling medium. Hence why I turned to this Katana for something a little different. I will be needing a separate BEC, in regard to an active suspension system which I am busy fitting right now. I also saw you shock absorber review video (brilliantly demonstrated, by the way), and decided that instead of messing around with these, I will just go full out and install an active suspension system from www.superscale2k20.com/ I have tried and tested it on my 1/10, and it's a real game changer. It uses a gyroscopic sensor, which translates vehicle movements as you drive into signals, interpreted by each of the 4 servos fitted to each corner of the car. It replicates the way a real car moves, and you can pretty much set it up to suit any condition you wish to replicate (heavy or light car, worn suspension, etc...). It's overkill really, but I do love these little RC things. You have a pretty nice collection, by the way. Thanks again for sharing such useful knowledge. It is much appreciated.

[@donaldsneffe]

@@gmcevoy Curious to see this system in such a tiny truck - did already see some vids in 1/10 trucks. A tiny 1.5 - 3 A external BEC should not be a problem, super cheap and easy to install... Yes, it is a pity that there are no real good shocks which fit Katana/CR-18 without modifications. I still use the Hobby Plus metal shocks, even if they are not really good.

[@gmcevoy]

@@donaldsneffe I will let you know how it goes, for sure. Have a great weekend.

[@VariableRC]

Thanks very much for making this video

[@adammtber5199]

This is an amazing video. Thank you for all the information.

[@auberwan]

Hello, Thanks you for this video and yours very usefull tests. Great Job. Congratulations

[@sharkey9]

Very very nice test, now I know what to buy for the mini crawlers, thank you! Still not clear if the AS ESC has drag brake or not. You mentioned the Willys Jeep regarding the performance with the stock radio. It is definately much better with a better radio. You might not notice it in forward but reverse with the stock radio is super jumpy. I changed mine to a FlySky, using a GT3B and now I can "count the gear teeth" in forward and reverse. Expo on the throttle helps as well... The stock radio can not do that.

[@donaldsneffe]

OK, interesting to hear. Did not run it too much ;) --- have to check reverse. To the dragbrake: Those German ESCs do not have a special dragbrake you can adjust, as the HW 1080 does. But they do have a crawler mode, what means you can go directly from forward to reverse. 100% dragbrake = shortcut of the motor, more is not possible (only if an ESC has an active dragbrake). Since the SCX24 does have worm gears, no special dragbrake is necessary anyway. In CR-18 and Co. I did not really miss this feature so far. I am not sure if such a tiny motor would be or is able to brake a lot, on the other hand many of those micros are so light that they won't pull or push the truck a lot downwards anyway. To sum up: I do not know ;-) But I am sure there is no micro ESC with programable dragbrake out there. I did not especially give attention to this, unfortunately. Did not think about it. Should have paid more attention when testing with the 1080. Cannot remember there was a difference between 1080 and "the Germans". However, 1080 is much heavier, and already only this will pull or push a micro much stronger downwards than the weight of a super light ESC. Further point: Drive train is not as smooth in micros as it is in (many) 1/10 trucks. And only this little resistance caused by drivetrain will keep a light micro in place in an incline, in many cases. The lighter the truck, the less you need a special drag brake. Only my theory, not facts and measurements and data analysis so far ;)

[@binplays6991]

@@donaldsneffe I find even with no drag brake on the AS12 descents are still excellent and controlled

[@donaldsneffe]

@@binplays6991 Me, too - video Furitek Lizard brushed vs. AS12/6 and AS12/15 coming soon...

[@PhantmZero]

might have to get some of those german ESC's for my WPL's. i do love the WPL RES v3 and it does have nice low speed control, but i hate the noise it makes.

[@donaldsneffe]

Never used WPL electronics, so cannot compare. Will probably use a AS12/15 on my WPL c54.

[@Turboactive]

That German company should sponsor you! Awesome test, just bought 3 AS ESCs for my little trucks! The noise doesn't bother me, but that performance is what I'm looking for!

[@donaldsneffe]

Best performance I probably saw is 2FM RCs brushless outrunner, with GamyRC mount: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mJzHYZyYqbiXocU - but super noisy and not easy to mount, not waterproof, ...

[@Turboactive]

@@donaldsneffe also isn't it heavier and raises the CG much higher? I have seen his video it is indeed awesome but I think not the best for a true crawler.

[@donaldsneffe]

@@Turboactive Agree. Nothing for me, I do not like the annoying noise (also in the Holmes outrunners for the 1/10 crawlers). Not waterproof, not mudproof, very complicated to mount. And yes, heavy... However, since I do have a couple of small outrunners here (for planes and helis), maybe I will try this one day, only because I like tinkering :-)

[@shawnrichardson118]

Great video thanks

[@donaldsneffe]

Thank you, but meanwhile quite outdated - a couple of new good brushed ESCs for micros out since then.

[@kza691]

​@@donaldsneffeis there an updated video? Just saw a quicrun wp mini 24 brushless combo and was looking for any info on them. Wondering if the 1/24 or 1/18 scale models could make use of such a combo, there doesn't seem to be any videos at all currently. Not sure how new it is tho.

[@donaldsneffe]

That is new for me, too. Maybe will check it, but meanwhile there are a ton of brushless ESCs out for micros...

[@AddyRCBuddy]

Hey Donald, hope you're doing well.. I have a few questions.. First of all I didn't know about this esc at all man, gotta try it for sure. Thanks for sharing. Btw which one you recommend, AS12/6RW or AS12/15RW and also with or without wires? Thanks What you think is this esc enough for mn86ks model?

[@donaldsneffe]

Hi Adi, thanks. No, MN86KS has a large motor, the 12/6 for sure is too small. I still did not finish my MN86, still not sure, if I will try a AS12/15. But the BEC of the 12/15 is very weak (nevertheless it says 2 A, it does have less than 1 A and will shut down the ESC under big load). If I try it (12/15), I will use a seperate BEC. Modellbau-Regler.de does also have larger ESCs with even better performance (resolution), for example the AS12/40RW. But those are more expensive, about the same price as the Hobbywing Quicrun 1080 (which is a fantastic ESC). Honestly I would not recommend 12/6 and 12/15 for the big MN86 with its large motor, I recommend a larger ESC, maybe the Hobbywing 1080, if you want awesome performance. AS12/6 with or without wires? Depending on your soldering skills. Wires are super long and bulky, so you will have to adapt those anyway in a micro truck. If it is easy for you to solder wires to small boards, then I recommend to buy without wires. But if you are not that firm in soldering, I recommend to buy those with wires and then only cutting the wires.

[@philthunder]

The new dumbo cased esc has no low speed modulation, beware. The old one seems impossible to find.

[@donaldsneffe]

I know, unfortunately. I did make a video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/on6pk52cjNCahsk

[@binplays6991]

I have then AS12 and furitek Tegu and Liazrad on a 050 can motor, I find the AS12 smoother despite the lack of programming for things like drag brake. (Unless I’m Unaware since instructions are in German lol) Great videos!

[@donaldsneffe]

I have Furitek Lizards for 4 months now and still could not post a review with brushed motors. Will post a video Furitek brushed vs. AS12/15 and AS12/6 soon. Such a tiny motor does have nearly Zero Dragbrake force, and in an SCX24 with worm gears dragbrake of ESC is absolutely unimportant. Which one do you have? AS12/15 or AS12/6? AS12/15 is already more than 10 years old and rather "oldfashioned", AS12/6 is newer, and they do have even "better" new software in the newer larger ESCs and I hope, they will also release this in small ones. In AS12/6 you cannot program anything, in AS12/15 (not EASY) you can calibrate throtle and make reverse 50%.

[@binplays6991]

@@donaldsneffe I have the AS12/15 EASY and did notice KZbin videos from 2014 about it and thought what an old esc 😋 I am so far happy with the ESC but now regret not looking at the as12/6. I am in the United States so I’m just happy to have a quality German product be delivered so promptly

[@donaldsneffe]

@@binplays6991 I was not so happy with the 12/15 because of its BEC. BEC is super weak. This will never be a problem in an SCX24, but I had a problem when using 2 servos in my Capo Cub1. So I contacted Modellbauregler.de. Super helpful, and a lot of conversation and explanations from Michael (the boss). Yes, the BEC of the 12/15 is weak, too weak, old model, will shut down... He told me all the stories, how super old (also design) 12/15 is, about the newer 12/6, they have 8 bit - so 256 different values for throttle (normal ESCs do use a kind of table with values given, and do only have 20 - 30 different values). And they have developed a new version with 10 bit (1024 different values!!!), which seems to be even far better, but is so far only on their larger ESCs AS12/40RW and AS14/80RW, ... but who knows what time will bring ;)

[@summersong88]

Thank you my friend for this test! I think for me the best option is the DumboRC ESC. I will cover it with some cotton felt maybe, see if that will help with the noise hahaha.

[@Turboactive]

I think the noise comes from the motor resonating with the PWM frequency but I am not sure.

[@summersong88]

@@Turboactive Thanks, that is a good explanation. My other hobby is audio so I immediately think of sound deadening methods haha..

[@summersong88]

Update: I bought the DumboRC and the noise is not bad at all, compared to my HobbyWing WP1040. I use it with DumboRC RX and WPL C24 kit motor (tan gearbox).

[@bcochener]

I really enjoyed this... I keep coming back to your ESC videos. Very helpful comparisons. Kind of related question: Do you know of a small micro 3s lipo that would fit in the Katana hood compartment? Can the Katana stock ESC even run 3S? I feel with the weight I need more power. Something I was going to try while waiting on a new ESC.

[@donaldsneffe]

Thanks! I do have 3s 180 mAh Lipos from Hobbyking (Turnigy Nanotec), unfortunately those are discontinued. My "next size" (370 mAh 3s) is already too large. But meanwhile, because of the microquad boom, there are many tiny 3s Lipos available, 300 - 500 mAh - and many of them do have slender shape, would probably fit (I do not have those, my next size is 800 3s for helis). Simply check the size... (check Gaoneng GNB 11.4V 300mAh 80C 3S Lipo Battery on Banggood, do not know, but this could fit). I did not test the Hobbyplus/Katana/Atlas board on 3s yet. Do not know, do not think it will work - but it is the same as in HobbyPlus CR-18 and Atlas 6x6... maybe someone tried? (Me not).

[@bcochener]

@@donaldsneffe Well, I just ordered the AS12/15 RW BEC EASY and Turbo Racing 4 Channel receiver for the Katana! Still on the hunt for a tiny 3s. Thanks for all the help! Hoping for some magic!

[@Ale85_]

Hi donald, an information, if I use the remote control plus receiver Flysky FS-GT5 2.4G 6CH RC with Receiver FS-BS6 6CH Gyro, with the esc AS12/15RW BEC EASY in your opinion is it okay? I wanted to ask you also if you can recommend me a battery to use with AS12/15RW BEC Easy for a truck crawlers scale 1/16, thank you!

[@donaldsneffe]

Hi, it will for sure work. Battery is difficult, strongly depending on where you live (shipping). Guess any 2s Lipo from 600 - 1200 mAh will do fine, mostly depending on the room that is available for the battery. Low C-rating will do, no high c-rating needed for a crawler.

[@OnizukaGTO]

Seeing the HW 1080 used as a benchmark, made it the winner here. Can you tell me what program settings you did for it, to work in the SCX24 so smoothly? Should of asked here after I hooked it up to the atlas 6x6 and busted my diff gears (got too excited after getting it to work). Haha. Thanks in advance and for the great micro crawler info-loaded videos

[@donaldsneffe]

Nothing special. 16 kHz PWM frequency, drag brake 100%, guess rest was stock settings... made a video about the different settings of the 1080: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nouoYnWegs2cfrM did not find a lot of difference changing start force/punch and initial start force, but easy to test for yourself.

[@new2rc453]

Thank you for the excellent tutorials... Will this work with the Katana and Turbo receiver please ?

[@donaldsneffe]

THX. Of course - I have a special video for the Katana: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q5qWmneYj61-pJo

[@new2rc453]

@@donaldsneffe Thank you sir. I have watched the video and it's awesome.. The horrible whine and buzzing is no longer but I like the sound of the motor and gearing which you can now hear. Also it looks like it has extra top speed as well as very slow crawl. Thank you again for your great tutorials...

[@growfishgrow1]

ok you got me keep up the good work

[@RCplamodel]

I enjoyed the good video and the good car.

[@sabresswords]

I wish it wasn't so impossible to get that as12 esc in the states. That thing rocks.

[@donaldsneffe]

Same shipping costs for you (US) and me (Austria): 8 €, about 10 US$. Not impossible... I do sometimes also order from the US.

[@m.9906]

Hallo, danke für das tolle Video! Ich habe einen Panda Hobby, habe mir nach dem ich das gesehen habe das AS - 12/15W BEC EASY Bestellt. Da ich das super finde wenn es leise ist und Besser zu regulieren ist. Jetzt die Frage. Der BEC kommt ohne Stecker nur Kabel sind angelötet. Wie heisen die Stecker die ich benötige? Bin neu in der Geschichte muss ich dazu sagen 🤷‍♂️. Stecker an Kabel zu bekommen schaff ich, aber ich habe die Größe nicht raus bekommen. Freue mich wenn ich eine Antwort erhalte. Vielen Dank schon einmal.

[@donaldsneffe]

Danke. Also der ESC... nicht der BEC. Der Bec geht über das "Servokabel" (diese Stecker heißen Dupont). Die Stecker für den Motor beim Panda heißen JST PH 2.0 (2-Pin), gibt es auch beim Conrad. Die Stecker für den Akku heißen "JST rot" (so findet man sie, JST SYP werden sie auch genannt). Gibt es überall... von Amazon bis Modellbau-Shop, auch mit Kabeln... "JST PH 2.0" und "JST red/rot" suchen.

[@matswillassen2867]

Hey Donald, very glad to find your channel. Thank you for testing all these for us! I'm a novice with electronics, so I have to ask: what do you do about the lack of LiPo cutoff in the AS12 Easy ESCs? I have a couple of CR18s that I want to up the performance on. Another question: with the ESC upgrade, running 2s: is there any point in changing to the 100T motor?

[@donaldsneffe]

Thanks. Honestly I do not care about Lipo cutoff of the ESC, I never had any problems with this and never run my trucks (or planes or helis...) till "end of battery". IMO this is a kind of "novice thing", coming from toy trucks. The only cars I run that way are sometimes my Mini-Zs (running on AAA). But if you are concerned about this there is a super easy and cheap solution: Buy a Lipo-guard, 2 bucks or so (3 for 5) on Amazon, Ebay, BG, Ali... if you do not have a Lipo-Tester, you can also check the voltage of the cells. Very small, super cheap, easy to use (simply connect it to the balance plug of the Lipo and it will beep at the voltage you set, 3.8 V, 3,7, 3.6... what you think is best for you). Is there a new 100t motor? 180? Did miss this, do not have it. I only know the 130 88t upgrade torque motors (guess this is also the motor coming in the "old" CR-18 with the small 130 motor). They are awesome in the CR-24. Can you give an exact name of or a link to this motor? I am quite happy with the motors of the CR-18 (same in Atlas, Katana, RGT 1/24). But 100t sounds interesting maybe for 3s. Do you know what specification the stock 180 motor does have?

[@matswillassen2867]

@@donaldsneffe thanks! Maybe I just have to overcome my fear of draining the battery. The 100T motor is HobbyPlus part number 240080. I'm not sure about these micro size names and specs.. I think the stock motor in mine (Rushmore, the other one is a FTX Outback Mini X 2.0 1/18) is a 030 size 88T motor

[@donaldsneffe]

@@matswillassen2867 Thanks. OK, this seems to be a discontinued 130 motor? Guess a 180 is always better because it has more torque. The 130 88t is top, and the 130 in my white "Land Cruiser style" CR-18 is also very good (guess it is the 88t). But I would rather take a 180 motor (RGT and Hobby Plus are the same). Is the 100t motor "old"? Cannot find it in stock (e.g. www.atees.com/display?brand=Hobby%20Plus&model=CR-18&id=164000 ) - and the 88t 130 is more expensive, seems to be the newer version?

[@matswillassen2867]

@@donaldsneffe you're asking me?? Hehe I don't know. I has a higher part number than my CR18 (240038), but I don't know if they are chronologically numbered. OK, so the CR-18 motor is actually a 130. I am building something a little heavier; a hardbody NewBright body Chevy S10 Blazer. So yeah, a 180 would be appreciated. But the low speed control is even more important, so I will definitely upgrade the ESC no matter what. My local shop has a HW WP1080 for a decent price. But that german little one seems very nice. Thanks for answering thoroughly.

[@donaldsneffe]

@@matswillassen2867 new cr-18 have 180 motors, the elder (and cheaper) ones 130.

[@bigscreen3968]

Geniale Videos! Kann man beim SCX24 eigentlich das stock ESC mit einem anderen Receiver benutzen, indem man einfach den channel2 vom stock receiver benutzt. Sozusagen als Eingang (und nicht wie es wahrscheinlich gedacht ist als Ausgang). Gruß

[@donaldsneffe]

Danke. Nein, ich kann mir das beim besten Willen nicht vorstellen, aber...??? Stromversorgung würde auch nochmal kompliziert. Ich kann es auch nicht probieren, hab keine SCX24 Empfängereinheit "stock" mehr (eine unbenutzt neu verkauft, die andere siehe "SCX24 magic" mit eingebautem Modelllbauregler-ESC).

[@bigscreen3968]

@@donaldsneffe Danke für die Infos, dann muss ich wohl direkt ans Axial ESC ran, um das zu nutzen zu können. Grüße

[@plukensteinpaint]

I wish my German was better I have just ordered your top pick! Such a great review.

[@donaldsneffe]

My "top pick"? Which one do you mean? The small one needs a BEC and a little bit of soldering. But the website does also have a English and a Spanish version! Check: www.modellbau-regler.de/shop/product_info.php?products_id=92 I will change the links to the English version.

[@plukensteinpaint]

@@donaldsneffe I picked up the AS-12/6RW EASY I have pretty good soldering skills so that’s no problematic. It will be going into my scx24 Competition build.

[@tijdrovers68]

would 6amp enough for a ftx outback mini with 050motor and big tires??

[@donaldsneffe]

@@tijdrovers68 yes, for sure

[@BlvlWmpower]

Wait, the scx24 has very good modulation. I'm sure these electronics are better, but i've seen videos and it creeps so slow. Your rigs are nice bro. I'm impressed with that bronco, big time!

[@donaldsneffe]

Yes, SCX24 has really good low speed modulation, as I said in the video. Only the Mini-Z 4x4 is IMO even a bit better, all the other RtR micros show worse or even far worse modulation. Best "slow creeping" SCX24 I have seen: 2FM RCs SCX24 with a brushless outrunner (with mount developed by GamyRC). But a brushless outrunner is (annoying) noisy, not waterproof, and very difficult to mount (no option in scale rigs as the Katana), furthermore heavy. However, check out that video, if you do not know it, it is amazing: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fX-8fZepq7WJaqc

[@barceloni1984]

Hobbywing makes a 1625 crawler esc, with drag brake. It comes in the rgt rock cruiser v2. I had one of those trucks and swapped it out for a 1060 esc. Much needed improvement in that truck. I still have the 1625 crawler esc, it looks like a perfect fit in my enduro24 trail runner. Just need to get a reciever for it. The turbo racing one should bind with the stock radio? Thanks for the comparison video.

[@donaldsneffe]

It has super bad low speed modulation, horrible. It is the "Black 1625". I tested it - watch this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fpKuY4WaiLyLesU So far I did not see the "Black 1625" available in any shop, only in RtR models. However, the low speed modulation is so bad, I never would buy it. Furthermore it is IMO too large for 1/24 models. Yes, the Turbo Racing RX binds to the radio.

[@barceloni1984]

@@donaldsneffe I'm just staying with the stock esc for now. I put the black 1625 into my 3 year old's ecx temper 1/18 gen 1. He doesn't modulate anything at that age, and the truck is super slow at full throttle anyways. Worked out great. Thanks for the reply 👍

[@danielserrano343]

About the mini switch, I have the same ones, and come rated at different amperage depending on voltage, even with 3A at 50v. Considering power conversion, I guess working with 8v (2s lipo) should handle 10A with no problems. It can work at 250v with lower amperage (0.5A), resulting 125w. This power at 10A should result in 12,5v so even should work on 3s lipo. Is that correct??

[@donaldsneffe]

I do not know for sure. Asked already some professionals, they do not recommend those switches. 2s or 3s should not make a big difference, because P = U x I - so higher voltage, lower Amps...

[@danielserrano343]

@@donaldsneffe yes, so if it can handle 3A at 50v, it should handle 8v (2s mainly, nobody uses 3s in 1/24) at 10A too... But I'm no expert!!

[@danielserrano343]

@@donaldsneffe I just connected one of these switches to my Modelbau Regler AS15/12RW on an SCX24 with 050 motor, leds, etc, running on 2S. At the moment it works perfectly, only using it 1 hour at the moment. I will test it on longer runs soon, but at the moment it works nice without any heating or bugging issues.

[@kycrawlers22]

Do you know if this ESC work with the stock "V3 all in one transmitter and receiver" for the WPL C24-1 - KM with the 370 motor? Or, would you have to install a new receiver and use a new transmitter also? Would you say a 2S battery is probably best for the 370 motor? Probably need to install a Lipo shield in line from the ESC to the receiver so you don't burn up the Lipo batts too ;)

[@donaldsneffe]

Sorry, I do not know. Do not have and use those WPL radios. If it has a channel 2/throttle out plug it will work. Lipo 2s or 3s is only to the ESC. 3s should work. 2s or 3s is not important for receiver, because it gets its power from the BEC (of the ESC) and not directly from Lipo. AS12/15 is fine for WPL and 370 motors, AS12/6 is probably too small.

[@laszlonagy153]

Hi. wpl v3 can work with this as it has external esc output. I tried it few days ago. v3 has lipo protection, not sure if it is blocked by external esc. With v3, it is super quiet, but i find it not as smooth as the v3. I also noticed some jumping/not 100%smooth issue with using it with v3 together. I tested it in an scx24 with wpl v3 + AS12/6rw. For a c24-1km , get the 12/15.

[@zoridor16]

Hello friend, I am interested in a hobbywing esc for non-crawler cars (volcano 16, latrax teton, ecx ruckus 18 etc) 1/18 and 1/16 (with 380-390 brushed motor) do you think it works well or gets hot? greetings😊

[@donaldsneffe]

Hi, yes, very good. Hobbywing 1625 perfect for this.

[@ka4172]

Was ist denn mit dem Hobbywing 1060? hab in den 1:10 Fahrzeugen gute Erfahrung gemacht ,gute Bremse auch Handbremse aber nicht einstellbar. War immer zufrieden damit im Crawler.

[@donaldsneffe]

Was soll damit sein? Guter ESC, hab ich selbst auch. Aber sicher kein ESC für Microcrawler von der Größe her, genau so wenig wie der 1080.

[@Larry_g_]

Hello I have a FMS CHAVY K10 and the electronics Esc Motor are crap do you recommend any upgrades that will benefit my truck Really need something silent and a brushless motor If possible can you send me the links for the names so I can google them thank you

[@donaldsneffe]

All links and names are here in the description. You will have to change electronics (radio) to upgrade your Chevy. Check the new ASX24 ESC ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJiVoIprfa1pfKc )

[@rueagonvyceratops2879]

+ Don,t know why you conplain on the noise from the little rc trucks , because it dont bother me , i like that high pitch wine noise.

[@heavyequipmech2263]

What ESC do you recommend for the tetra k1? I have the 6x6 model and would definitely like to improve low speed crawling. Thanks.

[@donaldsneffe]

I do have two videos about ESC upgrade in the Panda (4x4). If you want plug and play, take the Furitek. If it is no problem for you to change some wires and plugs, take the AS12/15. Since the Panda do have a larger motor, which draws more AMP (check my "Amp draw video"), I am not sure if the small AS12/6 will do it. Check this out: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oWiweWWwn76Emc0 Amp draw tests: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fXOYfGt7qt92htk Same in Panda (no BEC needed): kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZ_EiIiMitqmo7s

[@heavyequipmech2263]

@@donaldsneffe Great info, thank you sir!

[@brappineau4161]

So i went and ordered (to USA) the AS12/15RW. Didnt realize this doesn't have an on/off switch. I'm going to try to wire an inline switch in, but im concerned as most are high volatage & low amp. I dont think the switches are rated for the peak 20A that this ESC may draw.

[@donaldsneffe]

Why not simply use battey plug for on/off? One of the few things Traxxas did well in the TRX-4M IMO.

[@steveanddawn22]

Using the 2 speed gearbox on my wpl using as-12/15w bec easy is there a reason why the esc starts tripping out when trying to run the extra servo for the gear change if it's unplugged and I only have the steering servo running it's fine

[@donaldsneffe]

Yes, the old AS12/15 has a "well known" bad/weak BEC. I had the same problem using it with 2 servos in my Capo Cub1. Solution: Use an external BEC, it is cheap (do not forget then to pull out the red wire of the servo wire plug of the AS12/15!!!).

[@idworkhard]

Donald, I would like to request to do a servo size comparison, particularly wpl c34 and 1:10 scale truck standard servo comparison and tests. Thank you,

[@donaldsneffe]

I did already test C34 and standard size servos: kzbin.info/aero/PLYgjhA9mko6rbmvGorFAAV98AH7nB6Dvi

[@giuseppespiaggia5164]

Hi if I used AS12/6RW EASY with cables which has 12 cells 6A power is enough for my Gelande 1/18 ? or do I need to use AS12/15RW BEC EASY with 12 cells 15A power ?

[@donaldsneffe]

Enough. Check my "Best ESC Ampere" video - Gelände 1/18 draw super low Amps.

[@notreallydaedalus]

Is the AS12/15RW only for brushed motors?

[@donaldsneffe]

Yes

[@therctrails]

The site says the DOB format is wrong. It's exactly the same as their example. You have any clue its not working? I emailed the company but no response, and I really want to try out that German ESC.

[@therctrails]

Can I purchase one from you??

[@donaldsneffe]

@@therctrails No, I am also only a customer and have few. I do not know what the problem is for you, dozens of customers from US have bought from this site. I do not know what "DOB format is wrong" means. Here is the site, you can switch to English on top right: www.modellbau-regler.de/shop/ - Meanwhile there is a new ESC, the ASX24 Crawler, which is best for micros.

[@therctrails]

@donaldsneffe i figured it out. Their site wants you to enter your Date Of birth and gives you an example of 05/21/1970. Which to me, that looks like month then the day then the year because there is no 21st month. But in reality, they want the customers to write the day first, then the month then the year. They should fix that because I almost gave up trying to purchase from their site.

[@donaldsneffe]

@@therctrails Guess that is the normal "English way" of giving data. We here (German speaking countries) do it Day - month - year. I will tell him, thank you!

[@ighfirlee]

surprised you didnt test the one ESC TO RULE THEM ALL..... Furitek Lizard. I declare the winner here as null. 😂. good effort though

[@donaldsneffe]

At the time I made this video the Furitek Lizard had not yet been released and nobody knew about Furitek. I do have 2 Lizards now for several weeks, but quite a lot of troubles (one broke during updating) - but Furitek customer service Tony is very helpful, only Asiatees, where I bought those, did not yet send the replacement. In brushed Furitek does NOT rule them all ;-) - Brushless is a different story. I will make a video Lizard vs. AS12/6, but wanted to wait till Furitek has sorted out my problems.

[@ighfirlee]

@@donaldsneffe Sounds great. Will look forward to the video 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾 Ive got the Lizard but still waiting for other parts to come in. This hobby requires lots of patience to wait for parts to come in, hah.

[@appye7994]

I am curious, was each ESC programmed with more of a crawler profile before testing?

[@donaldsneffe]

What ESCs do you mean? The Modellbau-Regler.de ESCs are not programmable and made for boats, not for cars (AS12/15 is already sold without changes for 10 years). The only programmable ESC in this test is the HW 1080... and yes, programmed for Crawler (made a special video about 1080 with a lot of different settings).

[@appye7994]

@@donaldsneffe Oh I see! Iam still a bit new to the hobby. Those German ones look cool, but it kind of makes me nervous with them not having a low voltage cutoff...

[@allyoucando8486]

video can be boring, but for a person want a info of the esc is worth the try to see in full, for me i get the info i need, the Hobbywing 1080 is for 1/10 if you using for 1/24 is another story, for me 1080 is of the best for the price, but the error you made is to use esc for 1/24 those esc are made to use with the motor they can control, but using in a small motor 050 is to much power for the motor and esc suffer, and the second error i see is you need to use the dual rate to reduce the punch power, i always use 50% - 65%, that the biggest error you made, i learn that from time, and others i now don't the full power because they break parts, with means how of the drive shaft will handle 3s or how they handle 2s

[@donaldsneffe]

What are you talking about? There is not one single ESC for 1/24 in this test, but the Orlandoo ESC (and this is for even smaller ESCs). It seems you do not even know what Dual Rate is. Please do not comment if you do obviously not know nothing about the topic.

[@Microdose_RC]

It appears to have drag brake but had to make sure. Does it have drag brake and is it tunable if so by chance? Thanks

[@donaldsneffe]

What ESCs are you talking about? The Modellbau-Regler.de ESCs? No special drag brake...

[@Microdose_RC]

No drag brake? How would this be the best ESC for micro rock crawlers then?

[@donaldsneffe]

@@Microdose_RC Saw any better in the video? What do you want with a drag brake of a tiny motor? Inexistent... drag brake of Scx24 comes from gears. Think about it...

[@Microdose_RC]

Not in this video but Furitek makes the best crawler ESC for micro's currently. Drake brake is essential, especially on say an Element 24, Atlas 6X6 ETC. That's why i asked.

[@donaldsneffe]

@@Microdose_RC At the time I made this video the Furitek ESC was not yet released and nobody knew about Furitek. I bought 2 Furitek Lizards about 2 months ago. Unfortunately one broke during update (and I had a ton of problems with the other one, because it does not work with 2-slot BL-motors). I am in contact with Tony from Furitek who promised to send a new one, but Asiatees, where I bought my ESCs, has not yet sent the replacement. I plan to make a comparison video Lizard - AS12/6 for weeks now, but wanted to wait till the replacement finally arrived. After release of this video you can judge which one you think is better for a small brushed truck. Did you ever feel the horrible "rpm jump" of the Furitek? No smooth rpm increase from low to high possible. I measured rpms and will show the graphics then. A tiny motor as the "Barrage motor" (also in the Atlas 6x6) does not have a real drag brake force. Drag brake is "only" shortcut of the motor, but a tiny motor does not have a lot of force to stop the truck. It is different for example in the new 1/12 Willys Jeep, which has a much, much larger motor. Since you have never tested a Modellbau-Regler.de ESC, I doubt you can judge which ESC is better. For "RtR guys", who do not want to solder and tinker, for sure the Furitek is better. But it is also much, much more expensive. I do have both ESCs and I can judge. Drag brake is no point (for me). Smooth rpm increase is a point (for me). However, seems you have your opinion and will not change it, even if you did not even test or see the other product. Wait for my video. Both ESCs (and also the AS12/15) are awesome, both have their pros and cons. Not important for fanboys, who stick on those promotion videos like "game changer", which do only show the positive parts and do not go indeep the not so good factors. Only in the latest 2FM videos there was a little bit about the negative points (but nothing about the problems many users do have with the Furiteks, see for example German rockcrawler forum). I do make my own mind, I test and then have my opinion. And I do not want to sell any of those ESCs, I do not get money for it, and I even did not monetize my channel. Think about it - and think about drag brake.

[@sheldonrobinson8602]

For the scx24 hw1080 what battery did u use for the 3s

[@donaldsneffe]

Turnigy Nanotech 370 mAh 25 - 40c - super old (used those for my 3s modded Blade 130x helis many years ago).

[@steveanddawn22]

Hi I put the AS12/15RW BEC in my 1/16 wpl c24 with the 370 motor it's fine at crawling speed but at full throttle it's jerking and cutting out I'm running a 2s lipo any ideas what the issue is thanks

[@steveanddawn22]

Esc not bec

[@donaldsneffe]

Hi. Sorry to hear this. I do not think that a 370 gearmotor will draw many Amps (I did already test the C34KM motor, and it pulls less than 5 A on block). Maybe motor is bad, maybe battery is bad, maybe drivetrain does not run smooth and therefore motor and ESC get hot. Does the motor run hot? What means "full speed", how long full speed? The (more than 10 years old) AS12/15 does have a quite old, poor and weak BEC. If the BEC is overloaded, the ESC shuts down. I had this problem with the AS12/15 in my Capo Cub1, where I used 2 servos. Maybe this is also the problem with your truck. However, if it is the BEC, the solution is quite easy: Use an external BEC (2 - 6 bucks), and problems solved. If this is the problem, it is very important you plug the red wire out of the servo plug of the ESC (!!! very important, only the red one, black and orange/white have to stay). But could also be the motor... Can you test a different motor or a different ESC? What servo do you use? Does the ESC shut down if you plug off the servo?

[@steveanddawn22]

@@donaldsneffe hi it's an as12/15rw easy I have it plugged into my receiver I have the yellow and blue wires going to motor and the red black are for the battery is that correct just checking my wires before I start testing different motors

[@donaldsneffe]

@@steveanddawn22 Yes, correct, yellow blue motor, red black battery

[@tijdrovers68]

does the as12/6 or 20/15 have a dragreak??

[@donaldsneffe]

Active - no.

[@plukensteinpaint]

Where did you get the small BEC please thanks 🙏🏾

[@donaldsneffe]

www.aliexpress.com/item/4000020269470.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d9fu6Oq - but it is not important which one, there are numerous, ... I do have different ones, all work.

[@plukensteinpaint]

@@donaldsneffe I found those on Amazon after all and ordered them thank you so much again. Shipping times will be about a month for the ESC but I’m in no rush

[@donaldsneffe]

@@plukensteinpaint You get this stuff everywhere, also locally, for cheap.

[@sheldonrobinson8602]

I bought the 1080 wp for my scx24 and I'm new to this. Can you post a video of the 1080 scx24 conversion pleaseeee

[@donaldsneffe]

I use it in this video. The 1080 is large... and has thick wires, that is the main problem. So this is not that easy (because of size). Simply plug the servo wire of 1080 into ch2 of the SCX24 receiver unit, that is all. And let the SCX24 receiver unit always on "on". Use 6 V BEC in the 1080 (this is preset, but you can change to 7.4 V by program card). Plug battery and motor to 1080, not to SCX24 receiver unit. Most difficult: Connecting the thick 1080 wires to the small SCX24 wires...

[@sheldonrobinson8602]

By servo wire you mean the wire that ur suppose to stick onto the reciever

[@donaldsneffe]

@@sheldonrobinson8602 yes

[@sheldonrobinson8602]

@@donaldsneffe thank u homie. I really appreciate it. I lost my charger n my battery died so I gotta put a hold on this project. I'm actually trying to do away with the whole stock esc so I disconnected both servo connectors and taped them together to see if it works n it did. I might solder the whole thing together or some how rig the prior connectors to integrate with each other

[@rnd2k]

if you install AS12/6RW Easy how you keep your lights ? I dont see exit for the lights :(

[@donaldsneffe]

This is an ESC, not a receiver. Lights are connected to the receiver (or lightcontroller of the receiver unit, if it is integrated to a receiver, as in SCX24, so switchable/non switchable lights). An ESC does not have to do anything with this. The AS12/6 RW even does not have a BEC to power the receiver, it is only for controlling the motor.

[@rnd2k]

@@donaldsneffe I have FMS, please can you help if possible to connect to fms electronic ??? 😢😢😢😢

[@donaldsneffe]

@@rnd2k FMS micro (1/18, 1/24) trucks? Not possible, those do have a receiver-ESC-lightcontroller unit with no CH-2 out, you cannot use the ESC with those. You will need a new receiver (and radio and lightcontroller). Exception FMS Atlas 6x6, therefore you will only need a new receiver (TurboRacing 4ch) and lightcontroller and can use the stock radio.

[@rnd2k]

@@donaldsneffe Thank you :( Do you know of any solution for FMS 1/18 ? I have Hilux and K10, thank you

[@donaldsneffe]

@@rnd2k New radio gear. The new radios with receivers and light controllers that do come with FCX24 etc., and also with Hobby Plus CR-18-P (Flysky) are very good and have very good ESC. It is not as good as AS12/6, but way better than stock - maybe the easiest solution, plug and play, plugs will fit. Spare radio/receiver for FCX24/18 etc., or Hobby Plus. Otherwise any radio and small receiver will work (but no lights then). There are countless options - check the very cheap new Dumbo RC X6PM-350 for example. But is quite a bit of work (wiring, plugs, ...).

[@sbrc8725]

Do you think the Dumbo RC esc would work for an MN 99 with a 260 motor?

[@donaldsneffe]

Guess it is too small, only 10 A - but have not tried. Also depending on how and where you drive your MN99.

[@sbrc8725]

@@donaldsneffe I took your recommendation and ordered www.modellbau-regler.de/shop/product_info.php?products_id=91 for the MN99s. I appreciate the testing you did it really helps out 👍

[@donaldsneffe]

@@sbrc8725 Should work perfectly. BEC is quite weak, but should be fine for the MN99. BTW: There is a new DumboRC ESC, in a box. received it the day before yesterday... with lightcontroller (brake light, blinker) and no noise at all, and with drag brake. But unfortunately super, super, super bad low speed modulation, awful. The "old one" (noisy) much, much better. Will upload a short video probably today or tomorrow.

[@sbrc8725]

@@donaldsneffe Unfortunately I can’t find any of the old 10amps in stock. AliExpress is sold out.

[@donaldsneffe]

@@sbrc8725 ... ok, what a pity - they were not available for quite some time now. I bought the last ones of Ali some months ago.

[@AnthonyGonzalez-lw1ek]

On the cr24 ( I have this one ) where can one get those extra bodies 🤩🤩

[@donaldsneffe]

Asiatees

[@AnthonyGonzalez-lw1ek]

@@donaldsneffe thank you I forgot about them

[@JP-qq2kn]

Okay. so long story short, which esc is the best for slow speed control for the rgt v2??

[@donaldsneffe]

The Modellbau-Regler.de ASX24, not in this video, not available at that time. But you will have to change the receiver or radio and receiver, you cannot use stock receiver/ESC. Or AS12/6, AS12/15, Furitek. Check this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o3y6pGqNet14l6s

[@JP-qq2kn]

@donaldsneffe I ordered the reciever you suggested that works with the stock controller for the rgt. Just need to know the best slow crawl esc that will work. Why can't I use the ones from the video? Is the new asx24 ones better?

[@donaldsneffe]

@@JP-qq2kn Of course you can, as I wrote. The ASX24 is newer, has even better resolution, has a BEC, is plug and play (for SCX24). The tiny AS12/6 and the AS12/15 are fantastic, but not made for a microcrawler, but for boats. So you will have to make your own wiring, for AS12/6 you will need a BEC. But still, they work awesome. I like wiring, soldering, crimping - but as I found, most people prefer RtR ;-)

[@JP-qq2kn]

@donaldsneffe Wow, just tried to order one.. $74 CAD!! That's too much $

[@bigworm1384]

Did the hobbywing 1080WP recognized the micro motor 030???

[@bigworm1384]

Or is that a 050 motor? Or is it a 130 motor? I thought I tried a HW 1080WP on a 030 motor and it didnt see it. I now have a 050 motor Id like to try the HW 1080 on.

[@donaldsneffe]

@@bigworm1384 Those are 050 and 030 motors, they worked fine with the HW 1080.

[@schpreck]

I bought the DumboRC one just to test as i don't mind a bit noise, mine looks identical but is noiseless and has no low speed modulation :D I guess it is random with these.

[@donaldsneffe]

Really? Sorry to hear this. I do not know what to answer... I have several others (which I did not test yet), will check how those do. I have "old ones" without bridge (resistor) and "new ones" with 0 Ohm resistor (bridge), in this video I did use a newer one from Aliexpress (or Banggood, do not know where from, ordered on Banggood and Ali). Unfortunately it is difficult to order in China sometimes, you never know what you will get. Similar problem with 370 gearmotors, mine (video) worked really awsome, and others reported their motors did work far worse than mine...

[@schpreck]

@@donaldsneffe No need to be sorry, it was just 10 bucks off Aliexpress. More of a warning that you never know with these. I will find another use for it

[@ConditionZero76]

HW 1080 is $42 US Dollars by far the most expensive one on your table?

[@donaldsneffe]

Yes. Not "by far", AS12/15 is 33 € (little less than 40 US$, Hobbyking EU Warehouse sells the 1080 for about the same price on promotion). Next are 20 - 25 US$ (HW 1625, AS12/6). HW1080 is super cheap for what you get and what it can, but it is also super large for a micro crawler.

[@joelawson6319]

You should try the hobby wing 1060 great esc, and see what you 🤔

[@donaldsneffe]

I did test ehe 1060 in other videos... not for micros.

[@dontdoit6403]

is for brushless as well?

[@donaldsneffe]

No, only brushed.

[@rekik66]

Is there a United States distributor for the winner esc?

[@donaldsneffe]

No, this is a tiny company in Germany. But they do ship worldwide. Shipping to the US is not that expensive, € 8 (less than US$ 10). I did have to pay the same shipping costs, € 8, and I do live in a neighbour country of Germany in EU ;-)

[@growfishgrow1]

uk as well please :)

[@donaldsneffe]

@@growfishgrow1 You can order in Germany... ;) I order a lot in the UK (far more than in Germany), so why wouldn't you order in Germany?

[@rekik66]

@@donaldsneffe thank you for your advise. I would like to get this for my scx24 and my Atlas 6x6. The Atlas is loud! Haha!

[@MrChev55]

Link to the bec on the winning esc?

[@donaldsneffe]

There are two winning ESCs ;-). And on the small ESC there are two in the video. Do not know anymore where I got the larger one with wires from. The tiny one is this one: www.aliexpress.com/item/4000020269470.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d9fu6Oq But BEC is not important, you can take any... I did already order numerous different ones.

[@MrChev55]

Thank you so much!

[@ConditionZero76]

furitek, the best esc made for these.. 👍🏼

[@donaldsneffe]

For sure not - see my comparison videos kzbin.info/www/bejne/j6SwqqWspZeBnsU

[@idworkhard]

Would these escs be ok for wpl too?

[@donaldsneffe]

AS12/15 yes, AS12/6 maybe, maybe not. There are many different motors in WPLs, depending on motors...

[@Migweld7]

For me, furiteck make the best micro crawler esc.

[@donaldsneffe]

Which ones did you test? I do also have two Furitek Lizards. I will make a comparison video soon, AS12/6 vs. Furitek Lizard. For brushless Furitek for sure makes the best ESC for microcrawlers. At the time I made this video the Furitek ESCs were not yet released.

[@Migweld7]

@@donaldsneffe I got he lizard, run on a stock enduro24 with the brushed motor. I also fit a 9t pinion gear on it. With some fine tuning with the app and some setting on my controller, it's work very well! Regard for brushless motor on the future. Awsome vid by the way!

[@donaldsneffe]

@@Migweld7 also got 2 Lizards. One runs awesome, the second one broke brand-new during update, stopped at 6%. But Furitek customer service is very helpful and friendly, they will replace the ESC and the BT dongle for free. Only Asiatees, where I bought my Furitek ESCs, and who should send the replacement to me, is slow - I am still waiting. Did want to wait with the AS12/6 vs. Lizard brushed video till I received the replacement. Did have quite some troubles with connection to app, ... maybe bad dongle, will see.

[@King-Bob-on-the-Rocks]

Hey, danke für den erstklassigen Test. Mein stock esc vom scx24 is Tod aber ich weiß nicht warum Feuchtigkeit oder Hitze kann's eigentlich nicht sein. Höchstens die kalt Temperatur oder der fahr styl von meinem Sohn. Der esc tut nix mehr nicht Mal leuchten ich bilde mir ein das ein mircochip durch ist. Oder kann es nur ne kalte Lötstelle sein. Ich halte deine Meinung für sehr kompetent und würde ungern neues kaufen oder mich an reparieren versuchen ohne vorher deine Meinung zu hören. Wenn du dir dazu mein letztes vid anguckst, da siehst du meinen Sohn fahren mit der provisorischen Elektrik. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZLZhYuPa5tsjqs

[@donaldsneffe]

Servus, wenn kaputt und keine Stecker-Verbindungen kaputt, kann man da eigentlich wenig machen. Ist nur der ESC kaputt, oder der Empfänger (Servo) auch? Falls es Lötstellen sein sollten, kannst du Erhitzen im Backofen (200°) für ein paar Minuten probieren. Nur die Platine, also die Plastik-Steckergehäuse alle abziehen, sonst schmelzen sie. So hab ich früher ein paar "kaputte" Microheli-Platinen (Blade-mCPx) wieder "auferstehen" lassen. Aber das kann auch schief gehen.

[@King-Bob-on-the-Rocks]

@@donaldsneffe es ist 100 Tod kein Licht, kein Servo nix. Und er ist erst 5 Monate alt, da wüsste ich schon gern warum

[@donaldsneffe]

@@King-Bob-on-the-Rocks Wie alt ist doch komplett egal. Es kommt darauf an, wie oft und "wie und wo" benutzt. Ich hab 10 Jahre alte Empfänger/ESC Einheiten, die sind noch keine Stunde gefahren. Das Warum wird dir halt niemand beantworten können. Check die Stecker, ... ob die Stromverbindung zur Einheit passt. Mehr ist nicht. Außer vielleicht "Ofen-Backen", mit viel Risiko verbunden.

[@King-Bob-on-the-Rocks]

@@donaldsneffe OK cool, danke für deine Einschätzung. Das Risiko mit Backofen ist ja gering weil kaputer als kaputt geht nicht. Die Standard Messung habe ich ja gleich als erstes gemacht. Stecker Kabelbruch etc nur an der Platine habe ich nicht mehr gemacht als vorsichtig mit Ner Zahn bürste zu reinigen. Dabei habe ich gesehen das so n Micro chip direkt nach dem bat Slot Mini Mal deformiert ist. Ich denke jetzt werde ich Mal die Platine durch messen, bin zwar kein Profi aber so lernt man am sichersten wenn der Patient schon tot ist 😁🤣🤣🤣

[@donaldsneffe]

@@King-Bob-on-the-Rocks Microchip deformiert? Das hört sich nach einem durchgebrannten Mosfet an, den man ersetzen könnte. Allerdings müßte dann der Empfänger noch funktionieren, und das ist ja nicht der Fall. Eventuell ist das BEC kaputt, aber das zu ersetzen ist schwer bis unmöglich (zumindest für Hobbyleute wie mich). Schau mal mein "Mini-Z Board repair" Video an, das sind kaputte Mosfets.

[@jebrc]

does the

[@ethrrr]

ph2 sucks so bad :D ...even solid pins. bt2.0 are great, and kind of easy to find

[@donaldsneffe]

As if this would be of any importance in a tiny truck that draws 1-2 A continuous and 5 A on block. Those are no micro 3d helis or quads. Completely unimportant if you use PH2, BT2 or even the Losi-Walkera style plugs here.

[@ethrrr]

@@donaldsneffe they all wear out very quickly. Maybe jst doesn't, but its such a pain to unplug them :D I've ruined too many tiny whoop batteries with ph2 connectors, until I realized it was their fault(not completely) :)))

[@donaldsneffe]

@@ethrrr I totally agree with tiny whoops and if they had been available already 10 years ago I would probably also have used them in my (super modified) micro CP helis. But for a micro crawler it is simply not necessary. For sure good, but... kinda overkill (changing all plugs). However, those are interesting for 1/28 racers probably. Nowadays most people use JST PH 3-pin (as in elder 2s UMX planes, Blade BL microhelis).