Products that I used in this video: Paints: - KBS: amzn.to/3EcalQA - Rust Bullet: amzn.to/3mowBk8 - Raptor Liner: amzn.to/3pgY2hB - POR15: amzn.to/3JcO9JF - Eastwood Platinum: amzn.to/3JbskKq - Chassis Saver: amzn.to/3FiU4uD - VHT Chassis Paint: amzn.to/33EvQwI Preps: -Rust Kutter: amzn.to/3yVaaIj -KBS: amzn.to/3Jcp9SM -Rust Bullet: amzn.to/3mo4Act -Raptor Acid Etch Primer: amzn.to/3qeKrXm -POR15: amzn.to/3Ev8gzv My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
@KBSInternalVideos2 жыл бұрын
Great videos!! One thing I wish you would’ve mentioned is the cost difference between products. If there’s no discernible difference in performance between a couple/three products…is there a price advantage of any?
@GotScout Жыл бұрын
@@KBSInternalVideos KBS for the win... and he missed Herculiner and Durabak... better than Raptor...
@vids595 Жыл бұрын
@@GotScout You are crazy if you think herculiner is better than raptor liner. Raptor liner is far better in every way but maybe cost.
@johnbaum10003 жыл бұрын
I used to work at a industrial paint plant and these are all the exact same tests as I saw the lab guys do in a regular basis! Very neat!
@RepairGeek3 жыл бұрын
It's almost like I know someone who works as a paint chemist 😁
@johnbaum10003 жыл бұрын
@@RepairGeek are you one by chance? This is. My first time in your channel so pardon me for being blonde here haha
@RepairGeek3 жыл бұрын
@@johnbaum1000 i am not. I'm formally trained as a Auto/Diesel mechanic. Thanks for watching.
@DK-vx1zc3 жыл бұрын
I used rust Bullet on my plow. then top coat of Rustoleum.. Holding out fine. That Rust Bullet is tough and hard.. And the only way to get it off your skin is to wear it off. I tried multiple solvents.. No go.. Used abrasive pad and hand cleaner.. Nice review as usual!
@vadrifter32003 жыл бұрын
Thanks very much for taking the time to do this video and testing out these products. I’m not overly concerned about a piece getting a 90 or 180 degree bend in it. Like you said, there would be bigger problems than adhesion. Worried more about stopping the rust and the product staying on.
@zracer10992 жыл бұрын
I use rust bullet. Kbs never lasted for me. I put rust bullet on a car over 15 years ago, 1 coat, over rust, and it never poked through. Still have the car. And the car stayed outside until about 6 years ago. Rust bullet is all I will buy! They earned my trust!
@backwoodsblake2 ай бұрын
What state do you live in. ? I'm in northern Ohio where we get a ton of salt every winter
@zracer10992 ай бұрын
@@backwoodsblake I used this stuff when I lived in Michigan and now I’m in Pa and salt is used on the roads here. This stuff holds up!
@backwoodsblake2 ай бұрын
@@zracer1099 sweet thanks. I'm selling my Tacoma this week that was fully por 15d but I'm looking to try something different, getting new vehicle this week too
@birkettaustin3 жыл бұрын
as a rust bullet automotive user, it seems to work well. research said to use por15 or rust bullet and the rust bullet was definitely cheaper.
@davidbeaumont44553 жыл бұрын
Well done. I’ve had por15 peel from a couple applications. I’ve been using KBS now for a while. I have had no issues. I’m excited to try out raptor liner on my JDM truck project in the future. Thanks for the effort!!
@Liberty4Ever2 жыл бұрын
@david beaumont - I have a 4WD 1996 Daihatsu Hijet on a cargo ship in the Pacific Ocean, due at my closest port in a few weeks. I'll be "painting" it inside and outside with medium gray Monstaliner bed liner. I'll also be giving it the Surface Shield undercoating treatment every year to prevent the frame from rusting.
@billyjack8119 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the hard work you put in this. I dont like por 15 because of uv fading and also i find it to chip very easy. I have since switched to rust bullet.
@Ataraxia273 жыл бұрын
Love these tests. Thanks for the effort that goes into making this video!
@RepairGeek3 жыл бұрын
I have a love hate relationship with doing tests like this. I like shooting them but my channel is small enough that I can't guarantee a return in my investment for products. I have comparisons that I've shot that have taken 2 years to cover my costs for products let alone my time.
@shoes1212553 жыл бұрын
@@RepairGeek you should start a patreon to help cover the costs. I'm assuming thats how project farm can do what he does
@RepairGeek3 жыл бұрын
@@shoes121255 project farm has guaranteed views because his channel is so large. He will cover costs in 2 hours.
@johnbaum10003 жыл бұрын
@@RepairGeek thanks for your financial investments! Would you ever consider doing a test with rustmort?
@RepairGeek2 жыл бұрын
@@johnbaum1000 no real need to. It's between 40-60% phosphoric acid just like the others tested here.
@joshmartin88562 жыл бұрын
I mixed thermal beads with rust bullet and sprayed my floor, firewall, and ceiling after dry icing, wire-wheeling, and phos/prepping the surfaces. I cannot complain at all. It's all covered so the look isn't too important, it's held up well, and there is a 25f difference in the sun inside the car vs out. Couldn't be happier!
@cleveland2286 Жыл бұрын
I am interested in what you did, but just looking up "thermal beads" doesn't quite look like something you would put in paint. Can you explain?
@xIrHaxor3 жыл бұрын
makes me feel more confident about using POR15 for my XJ's floor pans. in hindsight i would have went with your recommendation but there's no going back. thanks again for a great video
@chrisgarretson60453 жыл бұрын
Take my word shit can the por15 and do yourself a favor
@KP11520 Жыл бұрын
KBS Rust kit is my Go To! Hasn't let me down yet! AND I always wire brush everything first!
@GlennInLaguna3 ай бұрын
Thanks for all your efforts in testing these. Five Stars!
@skrsys3 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for this. I am planning on coating an old trailer with a lot of surface rust with Raptor Liner. I was thinking of using Rust Kutter to prep first before applying the Raptor Liner after seeing your video on Rust Kutter. You mentioned in this video that you might do more videos with Raptor Liner. If one of the scenarios you try can be Rust Kutter & Raptor Liner, that would really be a big help.
@RepairGeek3 жыл бұрын
I have a plan for the products that I showed here as well as the rust converters. They are going to complement each other. It's going to take me a serious amount of time to shoot that video. So you may see a gap in uploads from me. Like I said in the video, if using Raptor strip as much rust as possible. Raptor offers 3 different types of primer. If you strip down to bare metal use the acid etch. Over existing paint requires a different primer.
@skrsys3 жыл бұрын
@@RepairGeek Can't wait to see what you come up with
@drumsxo2 жыл бұрын
@@RepairGeek Any idea when this will be coming out? I've got a trailer I'm currently working on. I just went at it with the grinder today, and my Rust Kutter will arrive tomorrow. I haven't decided what finish to use though... Paint, Rhino or Raptor liner, POR, etc.
@RepairGeek2 жыл бұрын
@@drumsxo video is up check my most recent upload.
@JS-gp7mz3 жыл бұрын
I used chassis saver on a frame of a 1999 GMC truck that was rusty. I used a needle scaler , blew it off and coated it. I did try to take a screwdriver to it just to test adhesion and I couldn’t get it to peel at all. The reason I used chassis saver was because of the need to not really prep. It actually says it works better on rusted surfaces .
@jenstori5746 Жыл бұрын
Long term what’s best undercarriage? And floor panels?
@rolandthurlow7533 жыл бұрын
Home depot sells metal prep for $17 full strength a gallon .. I use it all the time .
@shoes1212553 жыл бұрын
I don't like that POR needs to be topcoat for UV resistance. Do most of the products listed require this?
@OneDullMan3 жыл бұрын
Very nice video. Thank you. I would love to see a long term study for these products in preventing the recurrence of rust.
@jesus_built_my_hotrod3 жыл бұрын
Would have loved to see miracle paint as part of this test
@akilbrewley94312 жыл бұрын
Man I think you just saved me a ton load of money. I am in the process of treating and painting my chassis for my truck for rust and I had all the products you basically said were trash in my cart. I thank you so much for these videos.
@RepairGeek2 жыл бұрын
This may help you as well: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e4mtmHaviM2Cedk
@akilbrewley94312 жыл бұрын
Thank you, I actually watched both parts after I sent the message. Thats actually quite a bit of work, def not going thru that. I just want the chassis to aesthetically look a bit better rather than treating the entire body for rust. Ive decided to to use the rust kutter and, kbs for the eye sore areas ( I really want something that is going to stick and adhere to the chassis) and lanolin for areas I cannot see or reach. Thanks again for the informative videos 👍🏽
@robbierobbie4777 Жыл бұрын
Most people don't know that POR-15 means Paint Over Rust 15th version. If there is no rust it won't stick. I sand blasted my frame used the silver base and painted the frame. Less than a year it all peeled off in huge chucks. Had to have the frame blasted again and had it powdercoated. It's now been 10 years and no peeling or other issues.
@tnasituning8173 Жыл бұрын
Love my KBS Rust Seal and Max Seal products!
@stevenpellegrino9972 жыл бұрын
I used chassis saver before. I got it at the local parts store. It recommended on the can to use chassis saver primer. The prime was sold at the parts store as well. But I had a large can then the one your showing. I put mine on primed metal that was new. And on some rusted metal. It did a good job. Just saying.
@xozindustries74513 жыл бұрын
I have used POR 15 for decades, last year I used it and I had that same peeling problem with it peeling off, even with the prep I literally blew it all off with a pressure washer, peeped it again and used rust bullet and no problems. I have tried getting it replaced by POR15 with no luck. It definitely didn’t work like it did in the past.
@ratgreen Жыл бұрын
I do wonder if they've changed the ingredients of POR15. I know its made from some nasty chemicals. So if theyve removed a certain chemical which made it work so well in the past that would make sense. I've got some tins that are almost 10 years old, still good. And I have zero complaints, it sticks to almost everything apart from nice shiny fresh steel, which it isnt meant for. So when I see comments hating on it it doesnt make sense to me. Its the most forgiving paint I've ever used on mildy rust parts (like cast nuckles, diffs etc)
@michaelau5159 Жыл бұрын
I am about to start on 2 different projects. The first is a car and the 2nd is a bus. I was leaning towards POR 15 for the underside and Raptor for the inside. Now I'm just going to Raptor both sides. Great video, thanks for doing these tests.
@nemobuscaptain32452 жыл бұрын
Would have been nice to see you paint that with some cheap rattle can paint too and some epoxy primer. Then leave it outside for a year and do another video.
@RepairGeek2 жыл бұрын
Great idea
@karlx-13 жыл бұрын
I've used and sweared by Rust Bullet for years. It IS the best of all. They sell a black version too. POR 15 takes too much work to prep and costs more for a less stable product.
@technicalitems7312 жыл бұрын
Does the black version contain the aluminum particles in the paint like the silver?
@karlx-12 жыл бұрын
@@technicalitems731 The rust converter and seal is silver, the Black Shell can be applied over it, but I just overspray with any black paint, like Rustoleum, Krylon because I like the satin finish. You don't need to top coat though.
@jdmdang2 жыл бұрын
@@karlx-1 Nice, ill have to do this! Rust bullet silver, then any black paint over top of it. Would u consider adding PB Blaster Surface shield underneath too? to help prolong everything much longer? or no difference
@karlx-12 жыл бұрын
@@jdmdang nope. Nothing else just RB and top it with paint, undercoat, bedliner, whatever you want.
@TBsGarage3 жыл бұрын
I love the raptor liner, Ill be interested how it performs with rust prevention. I treat for rust and then protect with the raptor. Just did a bumper and got great results!
@SuperchiefApache3 жыл бұрын
I used Raptor liner in the bed of my 1959 Apache! Super nice results’
@h5mind3732 жыл бұрын
I would bet the greater the flexibility of the coating, the less likely to suffer failure during heating/cooling cycle, as both steel and aluminum can expand and contract.
@bennyb60713 жыл бұрын
very helpful information, appreciate the time you spend on these videos
@johnterpack39402 жыл бұрын
One thing that needs to be mentioned about POR-15 is that it absolutely requires a top coat. They are abundantly clear about the fact it has poor UV resistance and will not survive if left exposed. That means the added expense and labor of a top coat has to be considered when comparing it. But if you're doing cavities or a floorpan, no big deal.
@duwayneburnett1936 Жыл бұрын
They aren't kidding either. I POR-15'd my 20 ft car trailer and didn't topcoat it. Within a year it was very chalky and you didn't want to sit on it or the black chalk would transfer to your clothes! I read the directions but just never got around to painting it.
@reefhog Жыл бұрын
It doesn’t have to be too coated. What they are very clear about, is that even though it will discolour with exposure to UV, it will still perform the same.
@Aidencmz Жыл бұрын
@@reefhog That's incorrect. It's not UV stable, meaning it degrades and flakes off without a top coat. The chalky discoloration is the first stage of it breaking down.
@reefhog Жыл бұрын
@@Aidencmz It’s not incorrect. The discolouring is cosmetic. You don’t know what you’re talking about.
@JohnSmith-oj3uu2 жыл бұрын
Can you test Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint? I used that on an old f350 with little prep it lasted. It would be great to see what you think.
@cristianojoana18982 жыл бұрын
This is my method ive been doing undercarriage. Clean with phosphoric acid at 15% then epoxy primer and top epoxy coat or raptor .. best durabilitly so far.
@brentolsen82633 ай бұрын
Excellent video! Appreciate your help!
@markhuguet2 жыл бұрын
Based on your experience, do you think the Raptor would work well with a phosphoric acid rust converter? (I would like the sound deadening but I have some surface rust)
@georgef11763 жыл бұрын
Thing is with a few of those paints they recommend using their rust reforming pre product. I’ve used almost all of those with and without pre coat and the cans directions and recommended process always works best.
@mikeformisano97283 жыл бұрын
Wow! Well done as always 👍🏻
@timalan74069 ай бұрын
I just applied KBS on the frame and suspension of my new 2024 Toyota 4runner. I'm curious to see if it prevents rust over the next several rustbelt winters.
@efil4kizum6 ай бұрын
blistering at the welds ??
@timalan74066 ай бұрын
@@efil4kizum Welds are where to focus, that is always where the rust starts.
@efil4kizum6 ай бұрын
@@timalan7406 did you scuff sand that factory coating at all before application?
@timalan74066 ай бұрын
@@efil4kizum Yes, I used red Scotch-Brite.
@drizler3 жыл бұрын
Parks makes phosphoric acid by the quart . That’s what you need on steel that has all over rust. I just spray it on with an old spray bottle . In order for anything to stick long term you must remove all that surface rust and flake and the flake in particular. Wire wheels on a grinder work great then hit the pits with phosphoric acid. Sanding with flat sanders works ok too but all 3 dimensional flake or build up has to go. For scale and flake on thick steel I rap on it with a cheap air chisel using the pointed tip. I blunt the point so it doesn’t want to cut hold it loosely and LET IT BOUNCE. Far better results than using my needle scaler and uses a lot less air.
@zackraugh69522 жыл бұрын
What an under appreciated video! Great job man
@8luggarage2 жыл бұрын
I was wanting to use one of these products on a old truck frame. I fluid film all my newer vehicles. This video sealed the deal in my mind. I'm just gona fluid film the older truck frame as well. To much hassle in all the prep work, and still seems to be a possibility that the opoxy will peal. Great video 👍
@tank52r2 жыл бұрын
Good video, so im thinking for underneath clean/grind, metal prep, rust bullet then raptor liner. Should be a pretty strong mix.
@cemobili14 ай бұрын
Thank you for your effort . Great informative test.
@Obeijin2 жыл бұрын
Thanks...I'm going to primer my van with Rust Bullet . Maybe city camo ?
@D2O22 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the vid! My experience aligns with your results, phosphoric acid based products work "better" than others I have tried, but still not a miracle product.
@viel.anthony10 ай бұрын
I truly appreciate your videos, I've actually watched all your rustproofing videos in one sitting tonight! Glad I did, didn't know Blaster made such product and it's available near me by the gallon! No other choice but to sub! Quick question, I have a 2009 Crown Vic in eastern Canada. It was owned by an elderly couple and hasn't seen a lot of snow yet and the floor pans look brand new, so I want to keep it that way. The frame has some light surface rust, so I was wondering what your thoughts were on the following. The plan was to clean the rust with a wire wheel and paint it with por15. Seeing how it peels in large patches, I'm considering a different route. Would I be better off applying por15/kbs to the bare metal and then applying raptor liner to protect coating or is one product enough? Finally, since it's just surface rust, would you skip the wirewheel part? Quick note, I only have access to raptor liner, regular asphalt undercoating (from canadian tire), por15, kbs and rustoleum up here. Thanks!
@maxv57703 жыл бұрын
Great video, love to see these tests. However eastwood does have a metal prep. I called their representatives when i tried the stuff out. They said for bare metal: Sand with 320 grit, then use their clean metal prep (essentially acetone they said) then apply the eastwood rust encapsulator As for rusted and pitted metal: Use their fast etch product which has that phosphoric acid you mentioned, then use their clean metal prep (acetone) , then encapsulate it
@lucidworx11 ай бұрын
Did they mention anything about painting over existing paint? Have a flet bed and tool box with rust spots and don't want to completely remove the paint that is still good.
@robsdeviceunknown3 жыл бұрын
wow man, new sub here now. You taught me a lot. I really appreciate your effort into this.
@sawdustadikt9792 жыл бұрын
Another great video! Here is something I’ve been wondering, what neutralizes the road salt and or brine? Like, is there something I could siphon into my pressure washer when I wash under my truck at the end of the winter, then when it’s fully dry, follow up with a thorough coat of that lanolin film you like so much? Also, i wonder if you and project farm would team up? Would be great for coverage for your channels. Maybe on the salt neutralizer, get all myth busters? Love what your doing for all of us.
@RepairGeek2 жыл бұрын
Tested salt washes already:kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXjXpGebiMxridk I personally don't see a huge advantage with them. Either way with or without them my vehicles don't rust. I would love to team up with project farm. Collaborations need to make sense for all involved. I would benefit a lot more from that sort of exposure than what he would.
@sawdustadikt9792 жыл бұрын
@@RepairGeek wow, ok I’ll watch that. That’s a shame they don’t work, ive had it build up and look like toothpaste and not wash off. Thanks for replying!
@shaun656210 ай бұрын
Thank you so much for your videos! This is really good information. I have an 04 mustang convertible that I have completed stripped the entire underneath of transmission, rear end, lines, etc. there is some decent rust in the rear half. (Trunk and rear bumper area). I plan to wire wheel the whole underside as best as I can. This car means a lot to me and I understand the best way to get rid of rust is to just cut it out. However for the most part I don’t believe the rust is that deep in most areas. Finally, Is there a product that you’d put as #1 for painting the entire underneath of this car? I was going to use por-15 however seeing chunks of pealing comments more frequently than not lately. Thank you so much. I don’t want to have to do all of this again haha
@AK-vu7vk3 жыл бұрын
I had heard from somewhere that Eastwood was rebranded rust bullet? I take it you see a difference? Love the video content. Subscribed.
@thomastieffenbacherdocsava15499 ай бұрын
Glad I am a subscriber. Planning on preventing future rust on my new old Chevy which sat in a barn. My neighbor paint and body guy suggested Chassis Saver over POR 15 so I sprung for a quart and the corresponding reducer, I like to get the best bang for the buck, and checked out prices which are all comparable. While looking for Krud Cutter found Rust Cutter and the price was good. # x the phosphoric acid. Itll be my go to. Thanks! was shocked ad the way the Chassis Saver pealed away. Maybe that's why the tell you not to remove all the rust? Any thoughts about using an oil based top coat loke rustolium over Chassis Saver, if scuff sanded? T^hanks for you in depth assessment.
@vids595 Жыл бұрын
Rustbullet can be sprayed or rolled on, if you are concerned with brush marks. Or use rustbullet blackshell over it.
@redreddington37145 ай бұрын
Have you ever used Xion Lab 2 in 1 rust converter & metal primer it is expensive but it is awesome to use. Wold be cool if you could make a video about this product 🤗
@vicinvesta83492 жыл бұрын
The only real test I would like to see - how does these pieces of metal look after 1-2 years left outside.
@jamesbrinkley5208 Жыл бұрын
Great video! I recently got my 68 Cougar back from the body shop. I've been wondering about the condition of the Cowl area since these cars are subsepticle to rust even though my body guy told me the cowl was solid. Unfortunately, I found a small leak on the driver's side and a few other pin holes. I know the ultimate fix is lower cowl replacement, which is very costly, and I think overkill for this situation. Before finding this video and some of your other great videos on the subject of rust, I initially was going to use POR15 rust treatment and POR15 patch (for the pin holes). However, after reading the instructions for the cleaner and prep, I don't think I can remove all of the chemicals out of the area before using POR15 rust treatment since it is difficult to get to. I'm wondering now if I should use something like Rust Kutter, POR15 patch and then topcoat with a good quality paint? So, would you be so kind to offer some advise?
@dominofive50753 жыл бұрын
Always great test videos 👍. That surface sheild is the truth 👌
@WeirdJerz3y2 жыл бұрын
I've done my Subaru strut towers and recently fj60 chassis with Eastwood rust platinum. It's great and you can actually just paint over it. I put some type of undercoating. I personally feel any these is a good rust saver.
@LeftyLooseye Жыл бұрын
I’m about to do my rear strut towers on my 03 wrx wagon
@BourneThisWay2 жыл бұрын
I’ve heard bad things about using bed liner as an undercoating because it traps moisture and rusts metal underneath the coat. Good video though! I’ve been searching for an undercoat
My dad sprayed some of the rustoleum bedliner in the front frame of his 24 ft. Enclosed trailer and doesn't seem too be showing rust yet. Granted that he did paint it on a dry sunny summer day.
@skandix Жыл бұрын
NICELY DONE, THANK YOU.
@ryanamey50242 жыл бұрын
Rust bullet top coated with raptor liner 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
@nemobuscaptain32452 жыл бұрын
I too have seen the problem of POR15 peeling off in large sheets.
@Silverfang153 жыл бұрын
Thanks for doing this, I bought a small POR-15 kit and was concerned about the flexibility for my application. I have some surface rust on the springs of some coilovers that I want to coat. Might save the POR-15 and use the KBS or Chassis Saver (with prep) on the springs. I will definitely be getting a bottle of the Rust Kutter for when I do some bigger projects!
@jeremyrock93053 жыл бұрын
Unless you live out west por 15 doesn’t hold up lasted 3 years in the northeast
@DJR52802 жыл бұрын
@@jeremyrock9305 Thinking about using POR 15 for my Tahoe. I'm in Denver and this undercoating stuff is all new to me. I don't know how you guys deal with this crap. Next time I buy a used truck I'm paying attention for rust
@Liberty4Ever2 жыл бұрын
@@DJR5280 - I bought a used 4Runner a year ago and the frame is the first thing I looked at and probably viewed 19 rusted frames to find one that wasn't. If there is more than very mild surface corrosion, I don't bother looking at anything else. Frame corrosion is car cancer. It's disqualifying when I'm buying a used vehicle. I'll fix other stuff - cracked dash, trashed seats, a body with small dents, scratches or paint chips, but I am not doing a frame off restoration to fix a corroded frame.
@SteelHex2 жыл бұрын
Thank you very much for your work! I was thinking of doing this, but your video informs me that it’s not something I want to do. There is so much effort and expense involved for a small amount of comfort. The additional weight makes it even less appealing, because it affects both acceleration and mileage. If I see -10 dB change it would put me on the fence, -4 dB at highway speed doesn’t justify my cost and time. If I’m setting up a car with a powerful high-end audio system, then it’s worth it. Such a car wouldn’t have driving performance and fuel economy as primary concerns. Unfortunately I don’t have such a car.
@bonapartistico2 жыл бұрын
Love those videos. You mentioned raptor does bot make primers, there is actually a 2 part anticorrossive epoxy primer. Would be great to see how it works!
@iketheranter9126 Жыл бұрын
What's best for a rusted engine block, still assembled, after a thermacure flush?? Also, have you seen/ used any Wurth rust encapsulation products?? I also like using engine block hi temp paints or hedder paints.
@johnbee71642 жыл бұрын
I have a pretty significant automotive rust repair in my near future. I have been watching your videos, and I think I know what products and tools I need to get everything down to bare metal. Is the best move at that point to repaint it with a product like this and THEN hit it with surface shield? Or just hit it with surface shield on the bare metal? Or something else? Thanks for posting these videos. They make this project seem doable.
@letsgowestfalia24052 жыл бұрын
Great test. I love this stuff. Thanks for making videos like this.
@rosewd2 Жыл бұрын
rust bullet does make an automotive sprayable version, and i think you can get it in black. you can also paint over it.
@3gcraftsman Жыл бұрын
After acid metal prep, did you wash off acid or paint over it? Thanks
@nicholasfoley71052 жыл бұрын
Would you recommend using the VHT rust converter, then the VHT frame paint.
@obbyjep75972 жыл бұрын
Thanks for doing this, do you wipe with a water damp cloth after phosphoric acid or does it make a difference? I noticed that in the instructions on that most .
@lilshaff072 жыл бұрын
For exposed frame (wheel wells) w/surface rust - would you recommend fluid film or raptor liner? plan to use fluid film on undercarriage, but the places I look at i wouldn't mind them being "black." Not sure how the FF black appears as a paint (using for rust, but would love to get it black to cover up the ugly rust). Also, any suggestions on fender flare holes? Theres a couple near the front at the bottom that the holes lead into the door panel. Can spray FF inside to prevent cavities and decay from the inside, but wondering if I should plug them. thinking a sealant thatll harden that i have used for molding repair, but wondering if I should spray over the sealant with raptor liner.
@NouisFam Жыл бұрын
Great info! Hoping this hasn't been gone over before but I have a different situation. I live in AZ and bought a truck from Michigan. Rust isn't horrible at all but I want to spray my leafs and some other areas. So being in AZ, if I'm not worried about rust forming again, what would you recommend for a somewhat flexible black for leaf springs? I'd like to use aerosol. Thanks!
@thedrivechannel837 ай бұрын
Great test just did rusty springs for an old bmw with por. So far so good.
@efil4kizum6 ай бұрын
f por
@vincemajestyk94972 жыл бұрын
Great review. I used to use POR quite a bit and used to get it like 30 years ago at the car shows and flea markets but that stuff is crazy expensive now. I wanted to try something different and heard about Rust Bullet and tried some 3 or 4 years ago. It's OK, but like you said, it was a big disappointment to see the brush marks after it dried and even after top coating it. I'll probably use KBS as it's cheaper than POR. The big thing I don't think you mentioned is that POR is UV sensitive and will break down if not top coated. It's basically a humidity activated urethane that was developed as a paint for bridges.
@Liberty4Ever2 жыл бұрын
Chassis Saver is a similar moisture catalyzed urethane coating. It doesn't degrade its corrosion resistance after exposed to UV, but the color does fade from black to dark gray.
@vincemajestyk94972 жыл бұрын
@@Liberty4Ever I would try either that or the KBS but I would never get that Rust Bullet again. It was kind of expensive at $55 a qt 4 years ago. Probably OK if you used it underneath of a driver to just stop rust but I had to sand the crap out of it and still had brush marks. At least the others go on smooth. Used maybe 1/8-1/4 of the can and thought I sealed it pretty well. Opened it a month ago and the whole can was solid as a rock.
@Liberty4Ever2 жыл бұрын
@@vincemajestyk9497 - The moisture initiated urethane coatings start curing as soon as they're exposed to the air. Sometimes you can keep half a can if you pour a quarter inch of their compatible solvent (reducer) on top of the leftover material in the can and don't stir it. You should also use a piece of Saran wrap polyethylene film between the can and the lid to prevent the stuff from permanently sealing the can.
@vincemajestyk94972 жыл бұрын
@@Liberty4Ever Funny you mention that. I did use saran wrap over the lid and had been doing that for years. Must have not sealed. A real bummer losing that much paint, even if it wasn't that great. That's a good tip about the reducer. I think I'll do that next time. Thanks!
@Liberty4Ever2 жыл бұрын
@@vincemajestyk9497 - I think the Saran wrap is only useful to keep the polyurethane from permanently sealing the lid to the can. Polyurethane bonds very strongly to metal. It takes very little moisture to kick off the curing reaction. If you leave the lid off the can for a few minutes in humid conditions it's enough to start the curing process and a month later you have a solid chunk of polyurethane. I know that Monstaliner recommends opening the can just long enough to dip or pour out the material you need and then seal the can immediately to protect the contents from atmospheric humidity, even if you'll be using the rest in a few hours. Pouring a thin layer of reducer on top of the polyurethane in the can will protect it from the humidity in the air that's in the can, and it can be mixed with the polyurethane to thin it the next time you use it because even a very small amount of exposure to water in the atmosphere will slowly start to thicken the polyurethane. I plan on mixing and using entire gallons, and if I need a small amount for touch ups later, I'll buy a fresh quart. It's unlikely I'll need to use the leftovers within a month, and when I need the leftovers next year, they'll be solidified in the can. I probably missed my opportunity to use bed liner to "paint" my Hijet mini truck because it's arriving from Japan three months after I purchased it and that'll be at the start of winter, so I'll buy the polyurethane bed liner when I need it in the spring and not months before.
@heroaomedia Жыл бұрын
If you have existing rust on the underbody, is it better to use the lanolin products like you recommended in another video or use something like rust bullet? Or do you put rust bullet only on places without rust?
@jasondenkers76642 жыл бұрын
Would love to see these swatches that you coated hold up to UV light. As well as the respective UV Clear Coats from each Manufacturer. Maybe coat half of each with the Clear to see how much each one chalks out with time in the sun. Great Video.
@RepairGeek2 жыл бұрын
I wanted to do that but unfortunately I have no way of accelerating UV exposure. The results from running that test would take me a good 6 months to get some sort of answer to.
@threewheelerdonuts82842 жыл бұрын
What I've done with rust bullet is put the automotive paint on first and then put the rust bullet black shell over top and let me tell ya it is very very tough when it's done drying and it also leaves a very glossy finish with no brush marks. I used it on my 02 Toyota Tacoma and plan to do it to my 94 Toyota pickup
@firefighter326 Жыл бұрын
What has the best Ultra violet resilience so that there would be no need for a top coat over these products?
@donproctor34452 жыл бұрын
I have a metal spiral staircase that was primed from the factory but never painted. Lots of surface rust. Which product/procedure would you recommend
@klyded85233 жыл бұрын
Hi just a quick unrelated question. Do you have to wash away the old fluidfilm before you put new on the underbody?
@RepairGeek3 жыл бұрын
No just ignore it. I literally do nothing with it until I spray it the following year.
@BoDanGRUz Жыл бұрын
Would it make a difference if I use an encapulator vs Suface shield? Can I use both? Which one should I use first?
@KartmanWolf2 жыл бұрын
Great video, one thing you overlooked was that rust bullet automotive is not UV stable, and is intended to be overcoated. Their chassis black version is designed to be exposed. I have used Rust Bullet previously on vehicle restorations, and was curious as to how it compared to KBS that is a little cheaper. According to rust bullet, the silver isn't even supposed to be the top coat underneath the vehicle, due to reflected light.
@technicalitems7312 жыл бұрын
So the black is the same product as the silver but contains uv or sunlight protection? Or is the silver better with a top coat of (what?) paint? Thanks
@billrogers6863 Жыл бұрын
The difficult think with using these products is getting good coverage on the backside of panels. I am sure there are tricks and techniques for doing that. I just haven't figured them out.
@nemobuscaptain32452 жыл бұрын
The best etch imo is Ospho. it just works with less coats than others for really bad rust. I think it all just phosphoric acid, smells like the same eggs to me, probably of different concentrations. In the military we used naval jelly. Follow the directions as you start using the higher concentrations. And the great news is it appears that the same stuff is sold in Home Depot and Lowes as Klean Strip Concrete and Metal Prep. Dont waste your money paying more for the same stuff elsewhere.
@Quickwrench753 жыл бұрын
I know it is off the subject. But fluid film on a newer GM truck with the o.e wax coating. How's it affect the original coating? Is it anything to be concerned about ?
@oker-ln6uf9 ай бұрын
I have some custom control arms i had made by a guy, the outside is zinc coated but the insides were unfortunately left untreated and has a small amount of surface rust over smooth metal. There is absolutely no way to sand the insides, all i can do is basically pour paint in. Do you think por15 could work or would i be better off with an epoxy primer? I am worried about adhesion since I can't sand it. I will do a woolwax coat after.
@jdmdang2 жыл бұрын
Por15 seems like most common ppl use, I like the results of Rust bullet, and he even says to add a top coat over top of it. If anyone going this route, what top coat would u guys add to to it? to cover it up? then can u add another coat on top of that such as PB Surface shield
@zachary37773 жыл бұрын
Lowes sells a gallon of 30% phosphoric acid for $15
@seanandlizzie2 жыл бұрын
I'm gonna use raptor tintable and neutrarust as a converter and a primer do you think that would work
@patrickdubuc343911 ай бұрын
Have used chassis saver before by any chance?
@CMarkR3 жыл бұрын
Great video. If you are looking other products to compare, I saw a video a while back that had Mastercoat Rust Sealer as the best. And for a “spray paint” style product, Steel-it is going to be hard to beat based on the tests I’ve seen. This was the first time I’ve seen KBS tested so I may check it out. Would be neat to see long term durability, abrasion, and uv tests. Keep up the good work.
@h5mind3732 жыл бұрын
I don't know about the others, but POR-15 is not UV-resistant. It will quickly fade if exposed.
@tnasituning8173 Жыл бұрын
The guys put the KBS Rust Seal on their boat trailers and they are obviously submerged in salt water... Going on 15 years! And the protection is still like 98% PERFECT!!! VERY IMPRESSIVE STUFF. I would recommend applying 2 coats of the KBS Rust Seal to underneath not exposed to UV light... But if exposed to UV light I'd just do 1 coat of The KBS RUST SEAL for a Base coat and apply a coat of the KBS MAX SEAL
@tnasituning8173 Жыл бұрын
And the Krud Kutter outperformed the Rust Kutter... It finished 1st... Project Farm channel did the testing some years back
@m.b82573 жыл бұрын
Nice review, thanks for the video.
@seniorxj29312 жыл бұрын
The only thing I would recommend is that you show the actual testing as you're doing it. Similar to Project Farm.
@Mike-sh2dg Жыл бұрын
I just painted the floor of my 65 mustang in the Eastwood platinum. I agree the silver is a little harsh looking but I used a foam brush and didn't end up with brush marks like in your tests. Hopefully it holds up well but it's getting covered by Second Skin mats anyway so I'll never know.
@shizz7le4897 ай бұрын
How has it held up?
@Mike-sh2dg7 ай бұрын
It’s under the carpet so I can’t really say
@AlexM-tx2vr2 жыл бұрын
I know you are suppose to top coat POR 15 but I would be interesting to see the UV resistance of all of these products without a top coat. I can tell you POR 15 does not fair well after a year in the sun. I am wondering if any of the others would be better.
@RepairGeek2 жыл бұрын
I wanted to do that test but unfortunately I have no way of accelerating UV exposure.
@nemobuscaptain32452 жыл бұрын
my friend runs a small shop and he painted the roof of his rusty old 60s model shop truck with Rust Bullet that was left over. It's been sitting in the yard uncovered for 9 years now and is just beginning to show some hints rust around the edges again (drip rails and a seam). I personally LIKE the fact that Rust Bullet goes on thin even if it doesn't flow as well as the thick almost rubbery stuff some others have. If I ever have to replace it, I did once while doing a repair, it isn't as hard to remove the RB. It wont sand for shit though. It is very hard and don't think you will use it in lieu of fill primer even for small scratches or whatever. You will still have to spray some fill.
@Rick_Kn2 жыл бұрын
One product worth a test would be Hirsch Miracle Paint.
@marian_f17042 жыл бұрын
The test was ok buy I would've appreciated if you'd also have done a corrosion test.