Big Block Mopar: The Build Begins

This is the second video in a series of the RB Mopar 413 Build. This is an indepth series of how I personally build the RB Mopar engine. If you follow these steps, you should have good results with your build. This includes cleaning the crankshaft, and installing the main bearings and crankshaft into the block.
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[@UnityMotorSportsGarage]

I like this build! Great Job... Andy

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thank you, Andy!!!! I appreciate a professional such as yourself, following along with it! It's definitely not a race engine, but should be a good street use engine for many miles to come!

[@johnwilburn]

You know we make you miss your Duster from time to time.

[@UnityMotorSportsGarage]

@@JustMoparJoe I don't know about that professional part...lol I'm just an avg joe...( No pun intended) lol that has been able to work on alot of cool stuff over the years! I'm looking forward to seeing it run... Keep up the great work Andy

[@UnityMotorSportsGarage]

@@johnwilburn yes sir I do... My wife said that the only way I can ever sell CASPER is to get my Duster back...

[@johnwilburn]

@@UnityMotorSportsGarage Casper and the Duster could share a stable.... and I would certainly help you with Mopar parts and such. You’ve got friends if that ever comes to fruition.

[@BlownBudgetGarage]

I’m glad one of us has the patience to do things the right way. For the record it’s you. Definitely not me lol

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks Randall! Sometimes you gotta slow it way on down and make a 42 minute video from 6 hours of work LOL

[@BlownBudgetGarage]

@@JustMoparJoe bro I get it. My last video was 10 hours of work that I cut down to a 12 minute video lol

[@jamesbehrick9588]

Great Job!!! I'm also one of those who believes you can't be too clean when building an engine

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thank you! Clean is mean!

[@jackpinesavagerepair1918]

Howdy from the Northwoods of Minnesota Thank you for sharing.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Welcome back! Stay warm up there!

[@tjt4036]

Great video, looking forward to following this build.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks Brother! Im excited to do it. Haven't built a big block in a few years.

[@SGT19671971]

I respect you for caring enough to clean everything to the degree you do. I wonder how many builders do the same.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks brother! In my mind, it’s one aspect that I can control. I’ve seen dirty engines done by hacks. If it deserves to be rebuilt, it deserves to be done right!

[@craigpierce7996]

Only the engine builders that don't make engines that blow up clean this well. You can scrimp on many things, but getting everything clean is not an option.

[@gregoryskaggs656]

Nicely done! Clean enough to eat off of. Big block rear main leaks are the worst. Looks like you took all the precautions. Back in the day, a friend of mine o-hauled a '79 400 in a Magnum. He was running it on the lift next to me, checking for leaks. When he walked away, I couldn't resist!! I squirted a little oil right at the rear of the engine. He came back to a "leaky rear main" and lost it. I finally confessed a few minutes later and thought he was gonna beat me to a pulp. I cleaned up my mess and showed him all was good, almost. He stayed mad for a month. Life in the dealership. Cut-throat and cut-ups.

[@JustMoparJoe]

😂 I would have been on fire! They suck especially if you have a windage tray and have to stack gaskets around it. Thanks Gregory!

[@MuscleCityMadness]

Great stuff Joe I could watch this stuff all day man. Keep it comin

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks brother! Mopar to the front!

[@daveooldham9850]

getting excited now mate keep em comin Joe

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks Brother! More coming soon.

[@BigfootsnMopars]

Really enjoying this build series. Thanks Joe.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Glad to hear it! It's no stroker, but it is a basic build that should make the owner very happy! Hope the coronet is coming along.

[@BigfootsnMopars]

@@JustMoparJoe it’ll be more than enough. to be honest I wish I would have stuck to my original plan, just bought a nice 440 for the Satellite and never got wrapped up chasing Horsepower.

[@maxwedgedickdasterdly5586]

413 would look good in your Super Stock Nostalgia Barracuda.😜

[@JustMoparJoe]

I’d love it! I actually have a different 413 I could throw in. But someday it will get a built 408. I got to try the barracuda out yesterday. Good results!

[@maxwedgedickdasterdly5586]

@@JustMoparJoe I hear stroking a 400 with a 440 crank works really well. They can run in the 10s. But I dont know anyone that has done it.

[@chrisconley8105]

Definitely the "Bob Ross" of engine building and just as enjoyable to watch. Thanks Joe, Chris

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks Chris! Gonna put these happy bearings in right here!

[@VicsGarage71]

A nice simple how to video! Great job

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thank you Vic! Sorry for the slow response. It’s been a helluva weekend.

[@VicsGarage71]

@@JustMoparJoe lol no need to respond at all

[@DarrensTruckzs]

Very informative an I like the extra pre cautionary permeates silicone in those certain areas !! Nothing wrong with added security / protection from any leaks etc 👍

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thank you Darren! I build it just like my dad taught me. He built more Mopar engines than most did.

[@DuddiesAdventure]

Great Job Joe!! The only down side to this video is now I want to build a big block!

[@JustMoparJoe]

its time! Throw one of those turbos on and lets go!

[@cambo1200]

Great videos on the 413! I’m building a 413 next week for my 60’ Imperial, just came back from the machine shop.

[@JustMoparJoe]

That’s awesome brother! Hope to break this one in today!

[@paullittle2037]

your cleanliness is why your motor will still be going after 100,000 miles and so many others might only last 20,000 miles. good job joe

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thank you Paul! I have 3-4 more I need to do this year. At least one full series on the channel.

[@JohnTaylor-kh1sv]

Iam fixing to start my 383 build thank for the video joe , it going in a 1996 dodge dakota with a 727 transmission

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thats awesome John! That truck will fly!

[@speedbuggy4095]

Awesome video

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks Sam!

[@stevestewart7808]

Super job "Joe" I really like your attention to detail. For the small "pass-through" oil holes in the crank and elsewhere, I've used long stem pipe cleaners. Just an idea for you.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks Steve! I’ve used those before to slow down oil flow in pushrods before. They’re great to have around.

[@terrelldaniels1847]

Wow Joe I need to come learn a thing or two!

[@JustMoparJoe]

Come on Brother! You bring the beer!

[@garryhatchett775]

Good job. I have heard some guys prefer omitting the rubber seals on the sides of the rear seal and completely filling the groove with rev instead. Looking forward to seeing the engine come together.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Got to reinvent the wheel sometimes lol

[@moparnut6286]

Great video now I want to go play with my blocks!.... Big block mopars!

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks Brother! Sorry for the late response. It's been a hectic weekend!

[@moparnut6286]

@@JustMoparJoe no worries your a busy mopar man!!

[@Anthony-nw5zv]

No complaints Joe 🤠

[@JustMoparJoe]

Man I appreciate that! I have a high performance 400 build series this year. It will be more precise than this and should see a dyno.

[@koboskolors]

Your vid this morn about slop in the dist tang/oil pump gear motivated me to complete this exact session on my 440/molnar/icon/std forged crank assembly. Tomorrow is verify 28 thou top and bottom rings and slap those in as well. Gone thru source heads and 12 lbs from the wuhan war whistle and let her eat. Thank you again. Your vids mean alot!

[@JustMoparJoe]

Awesome! Thank you for sharing and good luck with your beast!

[@georgebonney90]

Thanks JMJ👍

[@JustMoparJoe]

No problem 👍Thanks for the support!

[@dinadaughtry8993]

Only a few people I would trust to put an engine together for me, your one because you care about the quality of a clean well thought out plan of the process to avoid future problems

[@JustMoparJoe]

I appreciate that. Check out my latest video on head gaskets, if you get a minute

[@HanzelFonferek]

Nice bro...

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks brother! Sorry for the late response! I finally got to go racing Saturday!

[@EstebanSarellano]

Good job clean and inspect all the parts I am going to build my 440 is cut 60 over sice I hope I don't have issue with the overheating goo video thanks

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks brother! Check out the 400 and 508 build. I have shared a lot of different noteworthy things in those.

[@jcarcar2023]

Great video !! New Sub 👍🏻

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks brother! Welcome! I have a full 360 build just like this if you like small blocks

[@318willrun]

Nice!! Progress!

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thank you Tim! It’s been a hectic week! Made it to the track with the barracuda! Any guess as to what it ran?

[@318willrun]

@@JustMoparJoe 7.88 1/8 ( i believe you race 1/8th mile)

[@JustMoparJoe]

That’s very much what I thought. I had some banging out issues above 5400. If you’d email me at [e-mail], we could get it figured out! Lol

[@robt3305]

Actually a great build, except on the center main with the thrust, you should actually run both bolts in to about 20 lbs, then back them off before you tap on the ends so the cap is free to slide to match the fixed bearing half in the block, end play should be checked when center cap is torqued to first step. One tip, much easier to lube and slide in cam before crank while you can still access cam bearings.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks Rob! Always more than one way to skin a cat. I’m not too far stuck in my way

[@mikestackhouse9001]

One of the best assembly videos I have ever seen. Very good close up work and good audio, no back round noise. Cleanliness is the key element to engine building. I applaud your extra effort to clean. Was the crank already balanced or did the MS have to balance? Did the journals need turning or not? Just hone the cylinders?

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thank you! The machine shop gave it a hone and I was able to reuse rods, pistons, and crank. The crank was nearly perfect coming from a low mileage rv. I know it’s a low compression engine, but it moves his 74 d100 well on the street.

[@mikestackhouse9001]

The 413 is a great engine and a high rev monster. Have you checked the source point on the lifters? I have been hearing horror stories about mfgs outsourcing their lifters from China and they have no hardness at all. Break in turns into an awful mess requiring a takedown of the entire engine as it will be full of metal particles. I hope all is well in your case.

[@JustMoparJoe]

I’m not totally certain, I’ve never had an issue with any Lunati stuff. This is the 7th voodoo cam I’ve purchased and installed. Check out the video of it in the truck. He’s got to source a rearend locker soon!

[@craigpierce7996]

Lucas/oil mix is a great choice. I noticed to didn't apply it to the crank journals. All metal bearing surfaces should be coated. Same with the cam. But you got your way and I'm good with that. Nice videos series!

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks! I have a brush now that I dab it in with. Check out my 400 build series as well. It went to dyno!

[@craigpierce7996]

@@JustMoparJoe Will do!

[@paulgoodwin4833]

Hi from Perth Australia, Awesome build and content Joe ..just about to start my own 440 build and following your detail by the letter ...just wondering if you done cam bearings on this build or another as I need to do mine ..keep up the fantastic work 👍

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks Paul! I had the machine shop do these, but I’ve done a few sets. I like to have a helper so that I keep everything nice and square. I’ve never don’t any on film. I hope you saw my newest 400 build. It will have some more detail that will help with any big block build. Had it on the dyno yesterday. It was a great day 👍🏼

[@billsanchez2665]

Solid video and info as always look foreward to the next video, Oh is the crank forged or cast?

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thank you Bill! The crank is forged. I should have mentioned that when I was tapping on it. The forged cranks have a high pitched ring when you tap them.

[@SteveP-vm1uc]

Nice job.. Somewhere along the line, I heard someone is making a 1 piece rear main seal that you simply cut and place onto the crank as you set the crank in. It makes sense that only 1 cut gives a better chance of NOT having a leak. I just don't remember who is making the seal.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thank you Steve. I've seen that seal you are referring to. I really like the idea. I believe Mancini carried it for a while, but I may be wrong. I always forget about it when I get to this stage, and use the fel pro seal.

[@johnwilburn]

Steve, somehow I knew you would just love that rear main seal install and all six minutes of RTV laden goodness.

[@jakobsimmons9997]

Nice prep video, and on an old iron block like this it's probably not such a big deal, but I refuse to spin a crank in the bearings before it's torqued down fully, I HAVE seen bearings and cranks get scored because of rotation before the main bore is torqued round even with a properly lubricated rotating assembly.

[@JustMoparJoe]

That is wild to think about. If it scores before the torque, it may have been really bad afterwards. I have ran into cranks before that after torquing, it wouldn’t spin at all. What do I do at that point? Loosen the caps one by one and try to spin it. When it freed up, I knew where the issue was. I think with the spinning ahead of time, you can feel the level of drag on that bearing. Thanks for the comment Jakob. I am always learning, both from mistakes and successes.

[@jakobsimmons9997]

@@JustMoparJoe some aluminum blocks distort so much under torque that the main bore and even cylinder bores are not round until they're torqued down, everything gets machined with torque plates so that it can be accurately honed/bored, one engine that comes to mind would be subarus ej series engines.

[@JustMoparJoe]

@@jakobsimmons9997that makes sense. Ed is honing my 400 block with a torque plate as well. It should be spot on when done. I hope to do a full series on it as well.

[@karlsracing8422]

I used the mancini rear seal retainer kit and installed it then waited 2yrs to fire the engine! Lol suprise no leaks

[@JustMoparJoe]

That’s a nice piece! Got one ordered for a stroker build coming up

[@michaelmartinez1345]

This technician puts a lot of thought into the details... But, He did not show lubing the rear main seal, or lubing the threads of the main cap bolts... But he did show the care and thoroughness of cleaning the various engine oil lubrication passages with that brass tube-cleaning brush... He is very good, and the reliability and performance of the engine will be at it's maximum level because of his attention to the details...And the last chapter , he chased the female threads of the block, and pressure washed everything...

[@JustMoparJoe]

I appreciate that, Michael. Check out 24:06(lubing rear main seal), and 29:22(lubing the main bolts). On that rear seal, I used red grease. It seems to stay in place if the engine has to sit for a while. Hopefully this series is thorough enough to help those out there trying to build their own engines.

[@michaelmartinez1345]

@@JustMoparJoe gotcha!!! I missed those parts... Maybe I was getting a cup of coffee during those segments... Great job on the video!!! The 413 is definitely one of the best engines that Chrysler ever produced...

[@JustMoparJoe]

@@michaelmartinez1345 all good brother. I really am going to step my next build series up some. The 413 was after the 360 build series I did. I hope to improve each time, and put out a new series each year.

[@johnbauer4852]

I think he's doing a great job also, and I don't think the sealer is going to harm anything on the rear main but it's just not necessary and shouldn't be there

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks Silverdome. I like the insurance

[@sethbarnes7608]

I like to final wash my engines with Dawn dish detergent, a toilet brush, ( yes, folks a toilet brush!😂 it works excellent) and a power washer. Then I blow em dry, then hit em with some brake cleaner, then a light coat of WD40 on the machined surfaces

[@JustMoparJoe]

Awesome! Check on amazon, They sell brushes that fit in your drill. Save you some elbow grease!

[@sethbarnes7608]

@@JustMoparJoe I also liked the fact that you didn't use a bunch of thick assembly lube on the crank. A guy needs to be able to feel what the crank is gonna do in it's natural habitat. That assembly lube can mask some binding or tight spots. Also, I've seen a lot of guys use that shit on the rings too or they dunk em in engine oil. Huge mistake! When you start the engine, and fire starts to happen in there, it's gonna bake and glaze that shit on the cylinders and they're gonna wonder why they have a hard time getting the rings to seat. If a guy calls up Sealed Power, they'd agree that is not good. The only thing a guy wants to use is a coat of WD-40. Let the oil rings give em what they need, and besides, those puppies need to "cut" themselves into the cylinders, so they'll grab that crosshatch and start rotating around that piston. 😁😁

[@CatastrophicFarms]

Is there a reason you dis not check bearing clearance with the compression thread stuff? That's how we used to do it, Is it unnecessary nowadays? Also, is it possible with that much assembly lube on your main cap threads that you could get a hydraulic effect when torqueing them and get a false reading? I would think something thinner would minimize this. Appreciate your work, new subscriber here.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks for asking. I believe you’re referring to plastigauge. It goes under the bearing caps, torques down and then you measure with a sheet to see the width. I didn’t use it with this engine. My machine shop is actually pretty thorough about measuring the crank journals. He said it was ready to build, and I did. I have a new set of micrometers and dial bore gauge to use on my next build. As for the lube, I’m certain that the excess will squeeze out of the sides and everything torque appropriately. When running, the journals are supposed to be floating on a film of oil, between bearings and crank. I believe that my mix helps protect those parts during assembly.

[@dtruth5769]

Just subbed. UTG mentioned you.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Excellent! Welcome aboard! I’ve been talking with him about the 318 build. Definitely a fun one!

[@dtruth5769]

@@JustMoparJoe Thats gonna be tough if not impossible To get 318hp with a basically stock 2barrel.

[@JustMoparJoe]

@@dtruth5769 for sure. Especially when they stroke the crank for more compression. It may end up as a 325+ ci when done.

[@dtruth5769]

@@JustMoparJoe maybe with 500 carb. That 2bbl flowed 230

[@fordssuck]

Gotta unrelated question. On 86 Ram, how does the DODGE emblem attach to front of the hood? The holes are slightly bigger than the pins, but no access for acorn nuts from behind

[@JustMoparJoe]

It’s been a minute, but I thought they had small trim clips that pop from the outside.

[@supercudaone]

Bore it to 4.250 and make it a 426 Max wedge. I have .060 383, std 400 (452 stroker), std 413, std 440 as well as sm bks std 318, .030 340, 2x std 360's

[@JustMoparJoe]

Awesome selection of mopar Iron. It would have been a sin to bore these cylinders. They were as perfect as factory.

[@lautburns4829]

Yeah, and they go like hell! Don’t they?

[@lukepokrajac1057]

Joe...what lunati cam did you use? I used a 256 lunati voodoo in my 383. Awesome cam!

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks Luke. This is a voodoo for sure. Check out the cam degreeing video with this engine. I know it’s listed there.

[@eebarreto]

Better safe than Sorry.. I would say on that seal...I have a 1974 Challenger. it has 318 but going to put a 440/727

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks brother. I don’t want to do it twice for sure.

[@NorthwoodsNomad]

10-15 my birthday 😎

[@brokenfingerdesigns]

What book are you using. Like the content.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks brother! www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Big-Block-Mopar-Arvid-Svendsen/dp/1613252552/ref=asc_df_1613252552/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312202813865&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6509975234936068211&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9025843&hvtargid=pla-432953368079&psc=1

[@cliffhaupt5413]

How does this guys shirt stay so clean? I gotta throw mine away after a little wrenching. Lol

[@JustMoparJoe]

He’s got some voodoo going! Thanks for watching!

[@frankroy9423]

Has the block been decked, any new rod and main bolts being replaced

[@JustMoparJoe]

No sir. This was a stock rebuild. No decking, stock bores were rehoned. The stock mains and rod bolts were reused. Head bolts were replaced.

[@cmw184]

Woop

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thanks Brother! I tell you hwhat!

[@moparmarkstpac]

Hey Joe, those 413's in 70 were motor home engines with 8 bolt cranks, did you use a 440 6 bolt crank? Also i know im jumping ahead but where did you find 413 pistons? Performance pistons are like chickens teeth they dont exist. Lol

[@karlsracing8422]

Mine was in a Winnebago and it has a 6 bolt flange.

[@karlsracing8422]

1972

[@JustMoparJoe]

Yes sir. This one and my other are both 6 bolt, forged cranks. The other engine we actually stole the crank for a 440 build that is in a dart swinger!

[@MrBlackbutang]

Do you build mopar engine different than other corporate engines?

[@JustMoparJoe]

There are a few nuances between different brands that can help longevity and performance. I’m just most familiar with the mopars because that’s what I was raised on. I do have a 350 Chevrolet build and a 351w short builds on the channel as well.

[@keithhebert9334]

Whenever I had a big block that seized it was always number 3 connecting rod bearing that always I just wonder if anybody else experience the same thing

[@JustMoparJoe]

Keith, I've never heard of that. Was it during extreme use? Did it happen multiple times? Standard or automatic trans?

[@keithhebert9334]

Yes it did happen quite a few times 383 + 440 I had quite a few 68 9 charger somewhere automatic sand somewhere for Speed even when I went to the junkyard to try to tear down a core motor to get a crank and it had the same thing and yeah I used to run them quite hard just seemed like always that number 3 always the first one to go I admit I was quite hard on but those days are over now

[@proracing9025]

My rear main seal is leaking on 440 ,1974 challenger, just put motor back in , will try to do withmotor in

[@JustMoparJoe]

I have a video doing a 383 in the vehicle. I’ll share the link

[@JustMoparJoe]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZoeYnnh9Z9unipo

[@chacebryan1559]

Do you plasti gauge stuff? Just curious

[@JustMoparJoe]

I have before. I did not with this build. My machinist told me this engine is ready to assemble, he has checked clearances before it left his shop.

[@chacebryan1559]

Understand. About to have my first hand experience with the stuff so I asked. How’s the d100 drag truck?

[@JustMoparJoe]

It’s a good tool to use on builds you’re not sure about. Poor black truck is sitting without a motor or trans at the moment. I stole the trans for the purple barracuda. The 408 will get a refresher and go in the car as well. Maybe the black truck needs a big block someday...

[@chacebryan1559]

@@JustMoparJoe I’m doing a d150 right now that I just finished doing a bunch of suspension work. Took out my 318/42rh(previously swapped from 727). And I’m swapping in a 400/727 I pulled out of a New Yorker.

[@iamnoone.]

Are you building this for you or someone else

[@JustMoparJoe]

I am building this for a friend. He is putting it in his 74 D100. Sorry for the late response.

[@supercudaone]

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thats an awesome Car! I'd love to see more of it! Does anyone in the family still have it?

[@supercudaone]

@@JustMoparJoe Unknown what that part of the family did with them

[@wheels-n-tires1846]

Never clean enough!!! Im just paranoid enough about dirt that my fresh engines get multiple oil changes... Especially since my work environment isnt exactly NASA-spec!! First one after just a few minutes (or cam break in if new), second after an hour run time, third at 100 miles. Then on to regular 3000mi schedule. Oil's cheap!!!😁 You def should NOT oil the bearing saddles... You dont want to make it easier to spin the bearing!! Id rather have that flash rust than a smooth oiled journal LOL!!!🤣

[@JustMoparJoe]

They usually have oil under them on disassembly. I just can’t trust that! I want them dry as a powder house!

[@davidbishop1977]

I am no expert engine builder and . I don't want to sound like I just want to give you a hard time. I have never been able to turn a crank buy hand after full torque. Did you check your clearances? I would at least use plastiguage but, they say that's not good enough these days. Bore guage and mic these days. Just my 2 cents.

[@JustMoparJoe]

David, check out David Vizard’s channel. He is an expert that I study a lot. He had an excellent video on checking main clearances. Any crank that won’t turn by hand after full torque, likely is lacking lubrication, or proper clearance. Vizard uses a mix of wd40, engine oil, and some kind of paint thinner. That thin of lube allowed him to spin his crank with his finger tips once done. I believe there is actually a torque gauge or meter you can put on your crank snout after assembly. If the number is too high, something isn’t right.

[@allamericanracing8375]

I could use a block like that. My cuda 440 has a crack

[@JustMoparJoe]

Man! I hope it’s not the numbers matching block!

[@HanzelFonferek]

1st

[@JustMoparJoe]

Winner winner, chicken dinner!

[@Anthony-nw5zv]

Jinga Tower lol

[@JustMoparJoe]

Don’t let it fall!

[@sandozman6085]

Dude you should change your name to Bo Duke.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Haha! Joe Duke!

[@supercudaone]

The 413 is the Red Headed step child that's to small to compete in racing, good in it's day, but the 516 heads are junk and the blocks are a dime a dozen so why limit your build to a 413 ? .060 over gets you a competitive 426 cid with plenty of cylinder wall left, also the 413 has forged crank ears on some of the rod journals that are unnecessary weight but are the best RB factory cranks Chrysler ever made (used in the 413 - 426 Max Wedge).

[@JustMoparJoe]

This engine was industrial. It’s getting shaved 452’s and will be a pump gas friendly truck engine. He wants good torque and will likely never race it. I choose an excellent voodoo cam for it. It will absolutely do the job in a single cab 74 d100.

[@supercudaone]

@@JustMoparJoe I also have a 78 W150 360 fulltime 4x4, that's where the 440 is going

[@johnbauer4852]

Shouldn't have any sealer

[@JustMoparJoe]

I’ve got to show the way I do it. Thanks for watching. Hope you can check out the 400 and 508 builds

[@paulz2641]

Now I know why I build chevys. Stupid sealing

[@Beverlys-Hillbilly]

Can I make one small suggestion? When you do something that is repeated many times, there is no need to show every single one from start to end. Show one completely then simply say, "do the same with all these others". Would keep us interested. I found myself skipping ahead hoping I didn't miss something.

[@JustMoparJoe]

Thank you Ted. I really do these series of videos for guys wanting to watch every step of the engine build or for those trying it at home. I don’t want to cheat anyone out of a step. Especially if they use these as reference. Thanks for watching. I will try to tighten up the next video. This was 4-5 hours worthier work into 42 minutes.

[@Campbase1]

I really enjoy the video but, Im concerned about the chemicals you are exposing yourself to.

[@JustMoparJoe]

I wear gloves every chance I can. Definitely should more often.