BIG water fixes! Timberborn Update 6 Episode 06

[@cliff4377]

University of Minnesota has a page listing all the edible parts of cattails, more than I expected, it's the roots that are pounded into flour, and the pollen can be added to flour as well and apparently makes some tasty bread 🤷‍♀️

[@alexkudzin4980]

You should put a line of sluice gates 1 block In front of the water sources Then put 1 high platforms or overhang in front of the sluice gates, with either levee blocks or impermeable floors on top of them depending on how much metal you want to use That way the bad water can flow up and over the good water instead of taking up space in the reservoir for a bypass

[@Malijah__]

Really cool idea

[@prcervi]

sluice gates are great for dumping water, especially for dumping a bad tide out the back, but fine water control is still better suited for the old reliable flood gates

[@derekdixon2968]

I've been finding the the sluices are best used as a steady supply of water in droughts, and flood gates are best for overflow. Often times each reservoir will have a sluice lower down in the dam for droughts and a flood gate at the top for over flow, this way every reservoir will stay full during good season and supply water during droughts. Hope this helps!

[@grimwolf4868]

This might be backseating im writing this as a tip on how i use Sluices. Feel free to ignore it. I build my water reservoar almost the same way you did. What i did was to use the sluice on the bottom layer making sure that the water can rise so the top of the front of the sluice then you can use the downsteam deapth function so that you always have the amount of water you want to witout haveing to change it maualy. I did this on every layerhight change downstream. In the top reservoar also close above contamination. And make a spillway on top with sluices so that when you are in the wet season it can overflow if you have waterwheals in the river. Finaly lowerdown in the river i just use dams above the sluices so that it dont overflow. this way everyting is automatic and you never have to open and close during dry season or bad tide.

[@wm-nu1yf]

It's good to see you getting into and succeeding with some of the more technically challenging builds. You're obviously learning a lot from the streams. Now all we need is for you to get your water folding chops to the point where you can make one water wheel power the entire colony. I'm rooting for you :)

[@marcbennett9232]

do we know if water folding works with the new mechanics?

[@wm-nu1yf]

@@marcbennett9232 No idea. Haven't seen any info either way. Only update 6 videos I've seen so far are from JC. People just get the horrors every time water folding is mentioned and I think that's funny.

[@marcbennett9232]

@@wm-nu1yf id love to see someone do some videos digging into the new mechanics and testing them out. I didnt see a creative mode.

[@Dardomor]

​@@wm-nu1yfno horrors here, just ignorance 😂 wth is water folding? 😅

[@wm-nu1yf]

@@Dardomor Skye Storme released a video called "How To Get the FASTEST POSSIBLE WATER FLOW RATE" about a year ago. Water folding is basically creating geometric shapes to condense a channel of moving water into a very narrow and shallow channel with an extremely high flow. It's hard to describe and explain and it's tricky to get it working right. JC spent large chunks of time in-game trying to get it to work right, but was frequently flummoxed.

[@hallohoegaathet7182]

If you are going to do the sluices route you want this 40:05 dam to be partly levees and sluices. This dam 40:40 can just be levees if it is the last dam if not look at the first sentence. If you have all the dams upstream provided with sluices with the correct settings and you want to make a dam downstream from this one 40:40 it can just be levees because no water will ever go trough it.

[@Hobbityfus]

I knew it was worth it trying to convey that idea for the better part of 3hrs last night. /edit: one of the best things about this design is, that you can just keep pumping below. The plants will not suffer in the slightest since the whole reservoir network is connected. You might want dams on top as an overflow for when freshwater is coming in. Easiest to deal with for actual waterflow.

[@darthyetgon]

Don't forget to cap it that way you possibly won't have to worry about the evaporation factor and if you lined it with levees or waterproof flooring it also wouldn't absorb into the ground making into a tank 😊 great videos keep them coming beavers are awesome

[@bjbilyk]

Not sure, but intuition tells me you should still have basic dams or floodgates on the top row above a sluice for "normal" river flow. Have it naturally flow like it would before sluices, and only use them for "fill/diversion" during exception times like badtide and drought. Only have the sluice open when you would crack a floodgate when the water level gets dangerously low.

[@JCTheBeard]

The plan is to have the sluices fully automated so we never have to touch them. Dams and floodgates wouldn't really fit into the plan with how we currently have it set up, at least not in this specific area

[@ehoffmeister8160]

5:53 if you set the FIRST sluice to only let good water thru [ the pipe ] becomes a reservoir that empties during non-good seasons

[@thomasfplm]

29:35 I suggest using the plateau on the other side of the water wheels for processing the metal scrap and add a few windmills. This way the metal possessing will have a more regular source of power and all of the buildings will continue to operate during a drought.

[@Dalton325]

It would be a pain to tie in, but the front of the new reservoir would be a good place to put some over hangs with gravity batteries on them. Since we keep surging water out of the last bit of creek, we could probably dam that short section and have more irrigated land. You could always make a lake later, if you wanted to. I assume that at some point, you'll start blasting the creek out anyway, so it's all the same level. I also know it's a long way off, but we could make an aqueduct to come off the upper reservoir and dump into the creek bed away from the settlement That would open a lot more arable land.

[@Don__]

You could limit the outflow from the reservoir by unlinking the sluice gates and only opening some of them. Alternatively, you might be able to put floodgates on the reservoir side of the sluice gates and use them to set the maximum flow rate. The sluices would still open and close automatically.

[@anthonyca30]

That's what i did with mine

[@karintippett753]

I used the waterproof floors on top of the platform with levees on the sides, open instead of a pipe but I was going uphill.

[@AnnieBellet]

I think you eat the roots of cattails, not the seeds. Can't wait to see the sluice network finished!

[@HannahkidmoseMlby]

On The new Big reservoir you could place Dams on top as overflow and set The sluice Gates to bellow the Dams height so it wont go of The map In a drought

[@emilsingapurcan8054]

Exactly the way i think it should be done. Sluices for water and badwater should just stay closed normally, letting the reservoirs fill up and using dams to release water into the settlement to avoid overflow. When in a drought, the dams stop flowing, water sluices set to close unless water in the settlement gets too low, and badwater sluices stay closed. In BW tides, the water sluices stay shut by BW detection, and BW sluices open. Since theyre lower than dams, no badwater will enter the settlement unless BW detection is late because BW reached dams first. Water sources should therefore route past and towards the BW sluices before going to the dams.

[@MusingsMuses]

It's real funny a beaver can't reach up one level to build a levee on a sluice gate but somehow can build a levee five stories down without issue. It's easier for beavers to like use ropes and pulleys to build down than it is to remember their step stool.

[@JCTheBeard]

I think the issue lies in how the game decides the size of the sluice gates. Because they have that moveable "target" indicator in the water height adjustment setting, it counts the sluice gate as a 2-block deep entity and therefore a beaver can't reach to build a block above it from below since the beaver technically isn't standing below the block you want it to build.

[@_Angry_Potato_]

They can, it happens in this very video. Look at the difference between 55:48 and 56:41. It just wasn’t prioritised

[@GaryRiffel]

Really enjoying the run of Timberborn vids over the past week. One very minor note to JCB , my name is listed twice in the Beard Booster credits (11month+ and 1year).

[@Devilish_Fun]

Could be why you had 2 beavers most of the time in the live stream. (One of you became Pamela 2)

[@GaryRiffel]

@@Devilish_Fun That does make sense. I cannot confirm or deny whether I fell asleep when that happened 😄

[@JCTheBeard]

This has since been fixed!

[@DisTurbedSimulations]

Enjoyed that, timberborn videos can never be too long (yes I wantched the whole 6 hour stream vod). I've constructed something similar but less grand to help keep the river full during a drought.

[@thomasfplm]

Unfortunately I don't have time for those, or I would enjoy watching them.

[@ChrisBakerkewlaidkiddd]

Best start to my day off. Time to watch!

[@shaunacarnline]

You could technically raise the “lower” part of the dam/reservoir by 1 or 2 tiles and have more water volume stored up. Also the sluice gates that you initially built for bad water run off, are they all always open? You may also want to remove the cutting trees marker on the chestnut trees.

[@Chameleon7777]

52:26 So happy you finally sorted a builders hut after i spent the whole episode saying you need more builders repeatedly to my screen 😂

[@wilkoufert8758]

It’s nice to see how kcs patience has improved and that he has gotten better at pacing planning and building. His grand projects have always been nice, but it’s even nicer that he won’t scar himself mentally or kill half of the colony about them😊

[@obilawnkenobi7230]

If you change out the dams by the aquatic food to levees, and the dams by the 4 water pumps to sluices (set at .9 so the food is always covered), could you have it automated so that no extra water flows out that side of the map? the sluices at the bottom of water fall would open to fill the farm portion when needed.

[@thomasfplm]

18:19 A diagonal near the corner would reduce the amount of badwater trapped behind and increase the amount of good water stored.

[@marcbennett9232]

nice pipe system idea! although you could just as easily put the sluice at the bottom directly into the pipe. 36:37 really like your reservoir right before the town!

[@ozspoz1317]

Yeah been wondering why we couldn't just use one at the bottom?

[@mikeriley2475]

What if you put a dam on the top and a sluice gate on the bottom set to open when the water level gets too low. You keep having to close your sluice gates to build up your water reservoir, what would happen if you used 1 or two sluice gates instead of 4?

[@demonicbunny3po]

Did some playing. Found out a previous idea suggestion of mine won’t work. Can’t build an aqua farm on top of buildings. But it is still possible to waterproof the roof of an apartment block and have roof top pools!

[@walkir2662]

If you set the water flow high enough tah tit flows over the first set of dams, it also flows over the second set and the sluices never close. You need to slot in more sluices in there at some point if yo uwant to keep the aquatic farm or close the reservoir sluices at some point.

[@SuperDriver379]

If you replace the dam by your blueberry’s with a bridge then build you a very small levee and sluice gates at the lower level you can apply the same principle you’re already using to all the irrigation and not have to micromanage it anymore.

[@goliyth5134]

Should we be taking a drink every time you rebuild the same pump? .. It all good man.

[@mikestone-w1q]

Build some small food storage at the bottom of the stairs. That way the beavers will be able to eat as they work, making them happier and more productive.

[@LodewijkVrije]

the sluice gate is really meant to be used on the upper edge of your levee. for instance, the sluice gate has an infinite distance down, with the downstream slider. that means that if you have a box that is 6 levees high, with a sluice gate in the rim. you can then set it to drop into a box that is 4 levees high, and make it stop automatically once you are at 3.90 meters of water inside that 4 levee high box. it works really well with dams too. which start overflowing at 0.60 water. so if you set a sluice gate at the same level filling behind the dam at 0.65, then it will only let 0.05 water trough. meaning you can make reservoirs last really really long during droughts. with your sluice gates at the bottom. if you manually open it with a wall of water high water behind it. then it will sometimes cause crazy flooding. because the water surges out too fast.

[@DisTurbedSimulations]

I can't wait to play with water 'pipes' and irrigation. Although I fear my brain my melt.

[@JCTheBeard]

Hey, if I can figure it out then anybody can 😂

[@jasonjazzz5]

omg that stubble club scroll time haha

[@JCTheBeard]

Dude it's insane. I can't believe it

[@Devilish_Fun]

Beavers can have some cattail crackers as a treat. 🦫!

[@thomasfplm]

47:52 It might be useful to connect the two buildings here, so you get a single circuit of power.

[@JCAlexander1]

Build your dam down to the stream area. Put a sluce in front of the the actual stream so you can measure the depth. With the sluce at the bottom you get access to 100% of the reservoir.

[@TheCaptainbeefylog]

If you paused the lumberjacks would it help to push the haulers to clear up the debris piles? Otherwise you have wasted resources laying about the map and my OCD will calm down a bit. lol

[@bubbles69138]

all you need to do, is put the gates right next to the water creators... when no contamination, open.. BAM water goes the normal route... then make a "container" around that up a level or 2, and another gate facing toward map edge... have that open when detecting contamination... no reworking around current water flow, didnt take many materials Also, if you put the gates connected to the water supplies in a 2 tall, 2 wide, 1 long sealed box... the most contamination you'll get from bad tide / good tide swap is 2 blocks worth... basically nothing! .. the channels that are creatable now, means you can make a channel and slap power wheels all throughout your colony!! No more needing to make connections all across the map... Just divert some into a water channel out there and throw wheels on top to generate MOAR POWAH!!!

[@PauxloE]

(I know I'm late, so my comments are likely long outdated. Still leaving them, for the algorithm and in case I spot something which might still be relevant.) → 3:45 to 6:28 - this sounds much too complicated. You don't need any high column of water, just a series of sluices where each can see the water level of the next one to shut off before that one overflows. → Until you can get the large water pumps, you might want to think about adding another set of pumps in the big reservoir two layers deeper than the existing ones, so you can still use the water when it's low. → If you want to reduce the speed in which the sluice gates empty your reservoir, you can disconnect them, and let some of them closed, while opening the other ones. For refilling the lower reservoir, a single sluice should be enough. → For speeding this building up, adding some small log piles directly beside the place they are building (and set to obtain) could help. Your haulers can bring the logs, and they have the carry bonus. → Don't forget to unmark your chestnut trees for cutting, otherwise you'll never harvest any chestnuts here.

[@jennieswensson463]

As you have said you are not going to use the Tree Pond for food growing...maybe another Lido and a shower or 2? close to housing and campfire area... 👍👍

[@JCTheBeard]

I'd like to, but we'll need to do a bit of terraforming to make that possible.

[@thomasfplm]

23:14 No, I'm more likely to laugh. 😂 But that's why I recommend building the new system before taking the old one out.

[@wilkoufert8758]

55:16 they just can’t build more than floor and above and lost access when the levee on the right was put in. They will be able to build from above. Not a special sluice problem

[@thomasfplm]

1:03:28 You might want to check if you unmarked those for cutting.

[@Dealanach]

What about a column of vertically stacked gates so that you can always have an easier to control amount of water pressure? It would be a poor man's floodgate until you can finish the pipe system.

[@ianhansford3160]

Beard, if the height of the dams you have is 065m, at the bottom, you could set your flow to close at 0.66m, giving you a constant flow of 0.01m and you would keep the bottom section irrigated with minimal water loss. Not sure if you can set it at that granularity, but, 0.7m should also be fine?

[@Someone_in_the_comments]

If you make another one of the those sluice gate damns in front of the aquatic farm area you will have a 100% fully automatic watering system. They're a brilliant idea - I never would have thought of making those myself. edit: nevermind, you had the same idea five minutes later, lol

[@LittleRedLemon04]

If floodgates used the sluice mechanic but with upstream and downstream controls having a U and D instead of the arrow the sluice has, it would be really interesting to try to turn the entire map green. If it had a maximum and minimum level for upstream and downstream my current build would work a lot better

[@Dealanach]

I thought I heard you say that the levees don't need to be rotated properly. We mustn't lie to ourselves.

[@targetdreamer257]

I don't know if this will work but what if you build the sleeping area with water ringed around it. Then have the paths travel into the water that way everyone will gain the wet fur perk?

[@marktheman2000]

New update and now vertical powershafts, this game keeps getting better

[@JCTheBeard]

They're really putting in work to make this game an all-time great!

[@KafkaKappa]

If you wanted you could make your tall reservoir as tall as the main reservoir when you get more wood

[@NethDugan]

May be worth budding another builders hut and hauling lodge

[@seawolf2830]

New to the channel, love the content!

[@thomasfplm]

56:27 An option would be to leave one open and close the others.

[@RobZebedee]

You could just put some stream gauges in to measure the depth might help ;)

[@paulphillips5576]

4hours would be awesome

[@thomasfplm]

55:09 Maybe reducing the number of farmers could be an option for some time.

[@Devilish_Fun]

🐸!

[@Wirdoboy]

hey jc.. for this new water system your building wouldnt it be so much more eficient if you replace the last dams in the river with levees and the the dams before the water farms replace them with sluse gates set at a water level of closing at height .85.. this way your farms will also always have water and any other water will go out the back..

[@JCTheBeard]

You'll like episode 7, then! Thanks for watching 😎

[@Wirdoboy]

@JCTheBeard Roger that. Yes well then I have something to watch tomorrow. But really cool.

[@thomasfplm]

7:26 And you could have the Sluice at the bottom of the wall.

[@ehoffmeister8160]

✴️✴️to speed build a tall levee wall x units high ... Use bridges: .... [Build a column x units high, build a bridge to the next column, repeat around perimeter, @HIGHEST PRIORITY] ... (UNDER bridges build x-1 high, 2ND high priority) ... when under bridges done, remove bridge & infill the rest of the top layer ... ✴️✴️✴️ This method lets an army of builders & haulers cooperate ✴️✴️✴️

[@dammitspawk]

dont forget to unmark your chestnuts for cutting :)

[@JCTheBeard]

Will do!

[@Drexos17]

last i knew dams are 0.66

[@voidfaux]

how are you playing different versions, if i tell steam to update it will wipe out my old version

[@roguemajin46290]

u can eat them 😂

[@crazyasylum7790]

you’re using too many sluices at each level. from previous episodes, you were good with only 1 but are now running 4. if you unsync them you can deactivate a couple to both full up the reservoirs and have enough water downstream.