5 THINGS TO MAKE YOUR DR10 BETTER | NOPREP DRAG RC

[@RCRoads]

Great video. It really helped me because this is my first go at setting up the DR10. Basically I'll be starting off with just a chassis that I picked up off of e-bay. The seller was just starting to set it up as a dragster but changed his mind and went with a fiber carbon chassis. It came with a bunch of Integy upgrades and of course stainless steel screws. I'm probably a dumb ass but my thought was to make a sand rail out of it. Thanks again for all the great information about this car. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

[@Dorkyand40]

Whatever it takes to get the gear in and not compromise the chassis. Good luck man

[@JSparrowist]

Just stripped my idler. I think I’m going with the RR metal upgrade. Thanks!

[@chuckbareika5478]

If you can't find the gear I use the 1 for the slash 2wd you need two 5 x 11 x4 bearings

[@adammcintee4439]

I watched for ideas im building a dr10 kit for next season the build will include drag master 2.5t Hoosier tires front and rear Hitec servo Malibu body with light kit All the above are installed Tekin rx8 gen 3 (on order) Futaba receiver I think have a good foundation to start with yet its all in tuning

[@Dorkyand40]

Looks good

[@Bassin07Si]

If you want a bulletproof trans pick up the Serpent Aluminum diff part #500485 and serpent aluminum idler part # 500526 direct fit into dr10 transmission.

[@brandonwarren1045]

Can you provide the part number for the replacement steering servo horn, and we’re you purchased yours thanks a lot.

[@scuffleburgoutdoors]

Thanks Chad , I’m building a DR10 with my dad for him ! Thanks for the video sir !

[@Dorkyand40]

It’s a great platform to learn on. If you get into it seriously it’s only downside is the parts and adjustments run out quick so that’s why the better chassis use the losi or b6 kit

[@ryancee217]

@@Dorkyand40 really?

[@g4guitars754]

What was the setup you used to convert the body mounting position as well as going to the magnetic?

[@Dorkyand40]

Shoe goo on the body and bolts drilled and tapped into body posts.

[@hanau73]

What magnets are those? Maybe post a link?

[@Dorkyand40]

Hey. Yeah don’t do it. It didn’t end so well. They always kept peeling off and stuff. Find a nice body clip system.

[@phw340]

Hi! Thanks for the video! I saw you said to change the idler gear to a metal one. What do you think about the other plastic transmission gears? Are those ok to use the stock transmission gears? Thanks much!

[@Yayo509]

as a very new guy into the RC game, I want to get into drag racing. Should i buy Dr10 and build from there? or start from fresh build?

[@Dorkyand40]

Depends on goals and expectations. If you have a local scene with a lot of beginners then an rtr kit is a good way to start. A full build and sport model car is going to require a lot more budget and devotion.

[@Yayo509]

@@Dorkyand40 does full build require lot of knowledge of building? and may different set of tools? I only have a set of screw drivers.

[@Dorkyand40]

Kind of a mash up of 2 kits unless you get a full kit like an Apollo. You always needs metric drivers for these rc cars. 1.5-2-3mm and a few nut drivers. Usually sold in a kit.

[@DirtyDollazRacing]

Where did you find the Team K & K bolt kit? Google'd couldnt find. Thanks

[@ringwormfpv2957]

You ever consider the diff lock for it? Full size drag cars are. Just curious.

[@Dorkyand40]

At some point I will try it but our roads in Ohio are cold now and it’s hard to put real power down without a slipper to adjust along with the stages on the drk160

[@ringwormfpv2957]

@@Dorkyand40 thanks. I ordered one, but am running stock motor. Looking to mid that as well soon.

[@paulhuffman7467]

Was wondering who has the STEEL idler,nice.

[@Dorkyand40]

Robinson has seems to be the consensus my man.

[@frasersteen]

This summer when I'm allowed outside again I'm finding the uk scene and I'm doing this. It's going to be my mission to make them add rules they didn't think they needed. Step 1: big prop on the back. They say no gyros but I might be able to use optical flow or ultrasonic sensors to do the same job.

[@Dorkyand40]

Lol. That would be something. I hope you’re doing ok. I follow uks updates and vaccinations closely just because of you guys and the ldo crew and other fpv you tubers. I get my second dose of moderna this coming Monday.

[@frasersteen]

@@Dorkyand40 oh that's great man, don't let that lower your guard these new variants ain't fun. TBH it's pretty rough right now, through the worst of the hospital crisis but looks like the government is looking to stamp it out much better than before so there's no light at the end of the lockdown tunnel yet. I'm generally in favour of the tougher approach but I'm definitely not enjoying it. I usually hang out with LDO Frank a fair bit and haven't been able see him in months.

[@Dorkyand40]

So sorry it’s been that way. I work in healthcare here. Even though we’ve been open per say I haven’t dined out since July and do most shopping online. Masks everywhere. It’s been a long winter. Work has kept me occupied. I don’t really plan to do much more after being vaccinated but it’s at least stress relief working around them all day. Luckily things have slowed a lot in my state after a few rough months.

[@frasersteen]

​@@Dorkyand40 nah it's better this way, I'd rather they acted faster and harder. Kicking the can down the road is why it got so bad. Now we are smashing it on vaccines it's even more important.

[@murrijuana2842]

@@frasersteen wow, you're part of the problem.

[@bogagrius3029]

Thanks for the vid, man!

[@Dorkyand40]

Of course. Hope it helps.

[@kelvinwashington5431]

What weight diff fluid do you recommend for the dr10?

[@Dorkyand40]

im using 125k

[@astronomysandwich375]

As far as stripping screws are concerned you'll be wayyy better off with the factory hardware over any ss hardware

[@Dorkyand40]

Maybe. I’ve got some bad screws in kits. I always replace them. Must be from my crawling habits so no rust

[@ruftime]

Agreed, stainless likes to gall, especially with itself.

[@Stealthfoams]

I strip stainless steel a lot more than the stock screws

[@cablepirate9106]

Thanks for this video. Going to pick one up but curious, Know of any place to race near Canton ?

[@Dorkyand40]

havent heard a lot out of that way. lots in cbus and toledo/michigna and dayton. do a search for facebook groups maybe? drag ohio..look for closest zip code

[@troybolton4055]

Big Dog RC in Stoneboro PA has a DR10 class. The HobbyTown in Mentor is "talking" about having races.

[@LonerSurfer]

I choose titanium screws over stainless steel (or any steel) for the weight advantage. What advantage does stainless steel give? Hell…my wheel nuts are titanium. And of course…the axles and linkage. My DR10 is the most exotic of all my rigs. And that all metal tranny with the lockout slipper clutch is bulletproof drag racing heaven. And…CARBIDE SPEED BEARINGS‼️Truly exotic. Except the chassis. It stays stock. Factory stock

[@LonerSurfer]

…and Hitec has a drag specific steering servo

[@kg5nja693]

Great info thank you. Cant wait for the next video. You look a lot like my brother in law. Is you last name Curtis?

[@Dorkyand40]

Thanks man. No it’s not. Video this weekend

[@MoBay876rc]

Like #52 nice upgrades 👍🏽 great content

[@b.k.shirtz2615]

Hey brotha love the channel and info. im new to the game. on the servo you said get associated horn, having some trouble finding what you said can you point me in the right dirrection or list part number please. Thanks all be watching all your videos

[@Dorkyand40]

hey thanks man.. its team assopciated part asc1366

[@jscycles]

wondering were in Ohio are you located.

[@Dorkyand40]

In galion. Just west of Mansfield.

[@sammygonzalez7627]

Don't know about the DR10 RTR but the kit comes with steel idler gear already

[@Dorkyand40]

I just went with the RR. They’ve always done me right!

[@jefftroxell4923]

Kit does NOT come with a metal idler gear, it's a piece of junk plastic gear. I recommend going with the aluminum idler from exotek, save weight and it'll last forever.

[@sammygonzalez7627]

@@jefftroxell4923 My mistake, it was the top shaft

[@sammygonzalez7627]

@@jefftroxell4923 I just strip my idler gear, aluminum better than hard metal?

[@jefftroxell4923]

@@sammygonzalez7627 yes it's lighter and just as strong if the metal was cast right.

[@codyprice0295]

None of this makes the car any faster. Just will have a more expensive 3.8 second car with tighter steering to lose races with. At least you save 10 seconds on the body.