Bite my shiny, fiberglass trunk! - Bender Car Part 5

[@Justrex01]

Looking good! I love watching you move into problem solving mode. Always helps when I run into snags. "What would Bill the engineer do?" Thanks guys! You're awesome!

[@punishedprops]

This is some fun problem solving. 😄

[@tzisorey]

1:00 - what a lovely shade of microplastics you're wearing there.

[@saintignatius714]

One thing that can definitely help your lights is facets in the lenses and on the inside. That's how old cars (and even lighthouses) can throw so much light with such a little light source

[@punishedprops]

Great idea!

[@GadgetoidUK]

@@punishedprops if you grab yourself some prismatic acrylic sheet it should do the trick!

[@cyphusvii4484]

a.k.a. fresnel lenses

[@andrewb9590]

4:20 & 7:13. Rear headlights lol. The front brake lights will also look great with a clear coat. 😁

[@punishedprops]

😂

[@svenhohne2697]

Hey Bill, appreciate that you followed my suggestion on glassing the whole inside of the car-body, a really good choice of yours. ;) One liddle advice for next time: actually it is best practice to put the glassfibre sheet onto the surface you want to cover and then dab on the epoxy until the cloth is soaked and fully transparent. This way you prevent any trapped airbubbles and control the amount of used resin, in order to keep the weight down. Looking forward for next episode. BR, Sven.

[@punishedprops]

Great tip, thanks for sharing!

[@deadend5233]

Forbidden Cheeto dust

[@punishedprops]

It’s not delicious.

[@dameiondorsner7256]

Ah, I thought you were making Pumpkin Spice for the holidays.

[@matthewkapala9243]

It's cool to see the progress/evolution on this - The side-by-side really showed the improvement that these changes made.

[@punishedprops]

Yeah I’m super happy we’re taking the time to zero in on our final look.

[@raegun]

When it comes to diffusing LEDs with limited space the word is "backscatter". Aim the LED away from straight on, or else put a conical reflector in front of it. It increases the distance between the LED and the lens. You'll see this in some LED lighting (the conical shape).

[@raegun]

For impatience re: chroming the front of the LED, use aluminum tape. Even the adhesive side is shiny.

[@punishedprops]

I love this tip! Aluminum tape is so useful.

[@wesmadebuilds681]

You can buy white wide angle LEDs. Also, you can add in a resistor to dim it down a bit and look a little more like a taillight.

[@punishedprops]

Awesome, thanks for the knowledge.

[@DaveRigDesign]

Awesome build, can't wait for the next part. For the lights, instead of painting the LED I would suggest placing a piece of foil tape on the tip, or glue some tin foil. Painting the LED bounces the back into itself, but adding foil will cause the light to be bounced into the rear reflector and back out.

[@punishedprops]

Thanks!

[@TheCreativeWill]

You could model diamond patterned pyramids on a circle in clear resin to filter and scatter light like the brake lights and put it behind the red lens. then you get some extra light scattering and diffusion with the pretty red lollipop outer lens. A nice two layer effect. Also harvest some dollar store flashlights and steal the shiny light reflectors for the lights, works better than the aluminum tape and you get all the rest of the flashlight parts too.

[@neilperry2224]

Great looking tail bill

[@punishedprops]

Why thank you.

[@PeteRondeau]

Try the chrome nail polish powder on the reflector and the tip of the LED

[@punishedprops]

Oooh nice idea!

[@HasBruce]

​@punishedprops you can also sand the tip of the led flat before painting it for better reflection, concave would be better but probably more work than worth it.

[@ralph90009]

Another way you could increase light output from the same bulbs is to paint the inside of the cone, or burnish the tape smooth. Car headlights generally have a mirrored finish inside the housing. A reprint of the rear lights with an internal lattice of thicker resin (or an insert) would help with diffusion too.

[@punishedprops]

More shiny = better. 🫡

[@evilbob840]

In the last video I was thinking the tape seemed a little fiddly, so paint might have been easier. Chrome nail polish (suggested by someone in another comment) is probably even better.

[@3dtesseract853]

It actually made me so happy seeing you take my suggestion for the red taillight lenses! (Of course that’s assuming it was my comment in particular lol) It looks awesome!! I honestly didn’t realize translucent paint would look as good as it does since I’ve never used the stuff myself.

[@punishedprops]

Is t it great? Thanks for the feedback. 😁

[@philabot]

Again I really enjoy all this info on the 3d print

[@punishedprops]

Thanks!

[@Jay-May]

Suggestion for the LED's, use white as your deflector, chrome looking material doesn't work as well. I was told this years ago by a LED master. It has to do with the light frequency and reflection. Great video, can't wait to see the finished Bender!

[@punishedprops]

Fascinating!

[@Beef4Dinner22]

​​@@punishedprops MC-PET sheets are designed to reflect and diffuse light, and you can buy them online. They are thin plastic sheets that can be bent or even thermoformed/vacuformed into the shape you need (in your case you could form them into the same cone as your reflector inside the housing).

[@tasmanianerd2558]

Niiice! I am loving the variety of different techniques and crafting tips that come out of these videos. The 'mega-cheeto dust' version of Bill is kinda concerning though... Stick to chocolate (my 2c worth!) - less mess, more yum.

[@punishedprops]

Tim Tams are amazing, but I’ll also slay a bag of Canadian Cheesies!

[@vernoningram5421]

Fiberglass? I'm 35% fiberglass! *tap* *tap*

[@punishedprops]

Ha!

[@billbucktube]

Getting it done❗️

[@punishedprops]

You know it!

[@1dave301]

Maybe try wide angle conical LEDs. They have reflecting inverted cones molded into the LED, the light comes out around the side.

[@punishedprops]

Ooh solid tip, thanks!

[@333donutboy]

FYI. There is a flat spot on the led that is on the cathode (-) side.

[@punishedprops]

👍

[@jonnusofjon]

01:04 I'm certainly no expert but I winced when I saw the facemask instead of full on respirator 🤯 bet you had some nice orange boogers after that!

[@punishedprops]

The dust mask kept the orange plastic dust from getting on my face and in my nose. I used the respirator when I was mixing chemicals. 👍

[@jamest.5001]

Glue a tiny piece of aluminum foil on the tip of the LED to help it look more diffused. Insted of paint.

[@punishedprops]

Great idea.

[@magomat6756]

If you dismantle a moderner tv , monitor there is inside a diffuser and these works great

[@punishedprops]

Ooh neat!

[@dustinhanlin]

Loving the FF'23 shirt! I didn't see you there but maybe I'll catch you in 2025.

[@punishedprops]

We were only there for part of a day, but it was crazy fun!

[@brendanrodgers4401]

If those leds are just 12v you could likely swap to some of the “led wafer” in a close size of your headlights and tail light.

[@punishedprops]

I think they’re closer to like 2-3v.

[@graemebrumfitt6668]

Lookin cool Bill. TFS, GB :)

[@punishedprops]

Thank you!

[@iknownothing-m8c]

Love the problemsolving. The tail-lights do look a bit orange tho? My preferred method would've been to use epoxy in a simple mold with a dash of food coloring in to make them red. They'd be shiny from the start and then could've just been sanded on the back-side for a frosted/diffused light.

[@punishedprops]

That’s a really great solution.

[@GuanoLad]

I don't know how widely understood this is, but the lenses on headlights need to be clear so that the light emits a beam to illuminate the road. However indicator and brake lights, or as Americans call them tail lights, don't need to do that. They have textured interiors of higgledy piggledy angles and bevels, which bounces the light around in a confined space, illuminating the plastic lens itself.

[@punishedprops]

I might have to experiment with that.

[@retaemaerd8493]

Try printing the lens as a cone to accept the LED and act as the diffuser.

[@punishedprops]

That’s a good idea.

[@evensgrey]

Polyester resin isn't just smellier, it also never entirely finishes curing, it just slows down to a crawl when almost completely cured. Epoxies have less off-gassing, but they do off-gas allergens, so you need to protect yourself from those. Epoxy is also much less tolerant of bad portioning and bad mixing. Polyester resin that gets the wrong amount of catalyst will just cure at the wrong rate, and if not mixed properly wont cure evenly, but it will cure if there's any catalyst in the resin. Epoxy won't cure if you get the proportions wrong or don't mix it thoroughly.

[@Shae_Sandybanks]

Looks great! Will you be fibre-glassing the outside too?

[@punishedprops]

I don’t think so.

[@droneracer]

I think that type of fibre glass mat, the chopped strand type is for use with the polyester resin not epoxy. A woven glass cloth should be used with epoxy.

[@punishedprops]

Thanks for the heads up!

[@DarthCobay]

Think one could use the fiber glass veil with uv resin for similar results?

[@punishedprops]

Oh maybe.

[@Vinpinto]

There are 1 cm diameter leds you could use

[@punishedprops]

Oh amazing! If I get some at a later point I can swap them out.

[@karlynn813]

I feel like I have seen something in the past of someone using fabric dye to dye plastic before. You could use rit dye for the tail lights too

[@punishedprops]

Oooh I’ve done that with PETG, but I haven’t tried it with resin 3D prints.

[@RealAndySkibba]

Really great build. Gets better every week.

[@punishedprops]

Thanks so much!

[@TK-11538]

seems to me that the layer lines would provide enough texture for the epoxy

[@punishedprops]

Hmm, I may have to test that some time.

[@Wico90YT]

You need to buy a H1 from Unitree and print a Bender shell to put on it. At a minimum you can put the Sweepy cosplay on it

[@punishedprops]

Haha!

[@GreatestGames777]

10 years from now : actually makes a working walking talking Bender

[@Wico90YT]

James Bruton made a walking FNAF robot

[@punishedprops]

That would be incredible!

[@McewbRacing]

​@@Wico90YT and a walking dancing bender 😂

[@craigt66271]

Could try reprinting the lenses as fresnel lens. It might difuse the light better, especially if printed in red

[@punishedprops]

Ooh I like that idea.

[@ParasocksTV]

1:03 It ain't easy being cheesy

[@punishedprops]

Chester Cheetah was so cool!

[@Claymore166]

Looks like Bill went all Cookie Monster on some Cheetos 😂😂😂

[@punishedprops]

Heck yeah! 🤣

[@nostalgiaflipnfix]

1:07 me anytime I get into a Cheetos bag

[@punishedprops]

Truth.

[@radar9790]

Sanding or really good Cheeto break. That is the question.

[@punishedprops]

These Cheetos taste horrible.

[@GdnMaW]

1:06 me after finishing my 6th bag of Cheetos

[@punishedprops]

Truth! 🤣

[@jerthemaker]

It looked like you ate a WHOLE bunch of Cheetos! Great work!

[@punishedprops]

Delicious! 🤣

[@capnskustomworks]

That is coming along so awesomely!!! 🥰🥰🥰Awesome work, both of ye!!!

[@punishedprops]

Thank you so much!

[@brba]

Sand the top of the LED, it is round to act as a lens.

[@punishedprops]

Another excellent option.

[@punishedprops]

Another excellent option.

[@HilmenYT]

this project is so hype! can't click on a video fast enough when I see it!

[@punishedprops]

Love to hear it!

[@dapperprops]

Heck yeah! Awesome progress!

[@punishedprops]

Thanks Jasper!

[@JacknVictor]

1:05 Who ate all the Cheetos™?

[@blizatrex]

All of the upgrades are great.

[@punishedprops]

Thanks!

[@walterplummer3808]

When you apply the fiberglass cut off about half of the length of the chip brush and push the reinforcement into the resin. It helps get the air out. Cool build.

[@punishedprops]

Awesome tip, thanks!

[@DarkSeraph351]

Not "Bite my shiny fiber glass!"?

[@jessedealva5597]

For sanding the outside I HIGHLY recommend getting the Angle Grinder Attachment for your Foredom along with Velcro & Foam Sanding Heads (specifically A-10046, A-10047, and A-10048)!

[@punishedprops]

Buy more tools, you say??

[@MauzyrockRC]

Awesome work

[@punishedprops]

Thank you!

[@workbenchz]

Try coarse circular scratches/grooves, like a Fresnel lens in a lighthouse; on the back side of the tail light lenses. The prism-like edges of the lens will grab the light and cast it forward.

[@punishedprops]

I like it!

[@FatLingon]

I know this suggestion is a bit late, but (maybe save it for another project) you could make the inside of the lenses uneven already in the print. You could try a prismatic retroreflective pattern, like the ones inside bicycle reflectors.

[@punishedprops]

Ooh neat idea!

[@atkelar]

I wonder if you are going to make a tiny go-cart from Bender's parts like Leela did when she murdered everybody - it would make a perfect follow up IMHO 😸

[@punishedprops]

Ha! Love it.

[@magomat6756]

You should choose sanding props academy instead of punished props 😂

[@punishedprops]

I know, right??

[@baneyj]

Thank you for pronouncing Tamiya correctly! 🙂

[@punishedprops]

I’m doing my part! 🤣

[@JonMadsen70]

:)

[@paulpardee]

The fiberglass veil is extremely dangerous to work with because it looks like cotton candy when torn and intrusive thoughts abound.

[@punishedprops]

At least it isn’t pink.

[@bricknick]

P ositive A node N egative I s C athode

[@punishedprops]

Great advice. 😂