Blend Door Motor replacement Ford Crown Victoria LX

Replace a Blend Door Actuator for a 1999 Ford Crown Victoria LX.
No need to drop the steering column or to remove the Dash.
Must be mechanically inclined to attempt.
Helpful Videos
• How to fix no heat or ...
• Ford Blend door motor ...

[@pilgrimpassingthrough2228]

Excellent video! BRAVO! Thank you ever so much for making this video, I've got to change mine sometime in the coming weeks. I really appreciate your time and effort to help others like myself! 1000 thumbs up!

[@jeromemcauliffe5471]

Of the dozen, or so, KZbin videos I watched on this subject, this was the only one that identified the option of removing the top and guts of the actuator to get at the dang 8mm screws. It was the life saver. Thank You!

[@DS-ss7vl]

This video is excellent. One tip for the "hidden" screw that attaches the air duct to the center...A Ford Ignition Module Wrench (Lisle part#64650) fits the screw perfectly and is short enough to go behind the duct to unscrew. Hope this helps.

[@jfcrow1]

Thanks. I am glad I am helping people solve this problem. I love my Crown Vic and want to keep them on the road.

[@chriswhite2151]

THIS IS THE VIDEO I WAS LOOKING FOR! I watched several other videos but this looks like the best method. I will be doing this soon. Thanks for the info!

[@colecappola9461]

I had to do this with my police interceptor. This video saved a lot of time and a massive headache.

[@jfcrow1]

Glad I was a help. Granted it is difficult to do but if I redid the video I would recommend the tight-reach tool. I used a small wrench but this was a challenge for me with medium sized hands. The tight-reach will get in there. Also I should have made it more clear that the new blend door will have screws used for alignment with the easy front tightened in. Still I am glad I did it for my car - the air conditioning is great this time of year.

[@mf-rd7vl]

Following this method, I was able to swap the blend door actuator in my 04 Sport in 1 hour 21 minutes. The only thing I’d add is make sure whatever tools you’ve got, make sure you have a small 8mm ratchet wrench. And if you’ve got big mitts, might wanna recruit a buddy that doesn’t for the front left screw removal and installation.

[@Slugg-O]

Great video John C I just did mine and it helped a ton and I'd like to add a tip I haven't seen. The damn screw at 3:13. Ford engineers had the full circumference of the vent tube to work with and for some reason found it necessary to put it on the back. I have very large hands and finally gave up trying to get a socket or end wrench on it. Solution: I split the seam like you did and stuck soldering iron with a wide tip against the screw. It heated the plastic and pushed through in seconds. When reinstalling I left the screw out and covered the hole and the split seam with silicone adhesive. I also found the soldering gun useful for melting through the screw tabs on the old accumulator housing once the internals were removed. The screws were gummed up with melted plastic but with the housing out of the way they were easier to get out so I could clean them up. Nothing about this job was easy, not even after using the soldering gun, but with my large hands the soldering gun at least made it possible. After the new actuator was installed it wouldn't respond to the controls. I ran the diagnostic as shown at the end of your video and got the 025 code. But my tests were done with the engine off. Realizing that I had no vacuum I started the engine and it responded. I ran the test and the code was gone so I ran through the controls again and the system functioned perfectly. Thank you for the great video.

[@kylesieh8494]

Just replaced my actuator following this method. Thanks for the tips and the pointers - destroying the old actuator was by far the simplest method to complete the job. Thanks for making the video.

[@philipthomas6808]

I like the piano music, is this some of that free KZbin music? It reminds me of Brian Eno's Music for Airports...

[@malfactor1]

It's Erik Satie - Gymnopedie 1

[@Guesch00]

Thank you sir! Your video in combination with others, have saved me about $800 for a Saturday's worth of work. Salute!

[@DS-ss7vl]

You and me both.

[@johnhuber9523]

Thanks for the in-depth video. I just installed the new (Dorman) actuator on my 2005 MercGM. Your video and tips made it easy. No need to pull the dash forward, although it did take about 5 hours to do. I highly recommend getting the following tools: A pair of straight forceps 12" long or longer; and a 8 mm ratcheting box wrench. These made it easier to get at the front screw behind the radio, which I could not see but was able to touch it. I was luck - My car did not have the dreaded screw closest to the firewall in the back of the unit. BTW - you mentioned the two hidden screws holding the Pass side dash vent ductwork, but didn't say where they were. They are behind the pass side duct directly top and bottom the dash vent. A hearty thank you and a tip of the cap to you sir for making this job easier than I expected! - JHinPA 10/20/2021

[@teacherlynn671]

Will I have a hard time seeing the two hidden screws John C forgot to show where they are? If you have any input I would appreciate it. I changed the heater core and this part was working and I had the dash out but didn’t change it. Now I have to so any help would be great thanks.

[@christianchilders3996]

Thank you John C

[@TheRancher03]

I removed the top cover and used some angled pliers to break the cover around the screws to have more space for a ratchet wrench. I didn't want to risk breaking anything under the cover or the screw holders. I had a harbor freight inspection camera that helped. Was rather easy using your method. thanks........

[@dannyrobb272]

I've been wanting to replace this for the longest time. Thank you so much! Keep up the good work!

[@jimstingily3903]

I got this done but wow, not for the feint of heart no matter what method you use. On my '05 Mercury no amount of angling would let me see that front left screw, had to get it off by feel alone and even my small socket wrench would not fit, used a closed end 8mm ratchet. I clipped the back right hole in new the housing and did not bother putting in the front left screw, just tightened down the right one well.

[@ythodges]

Decapitating the actuator is like shucking a big oyster - I live on the Gulf coast so I actually used a long oyster knife but a screwdriver should do. Popping the tabs and decapping the unit is GENIUS. I got the far screw started out with an 8mm open end with string on it for WHEN you drop it. Finished unscrewing with needle nose pliers on the threads - much easier than resetting the wrench over and over. I never got close with a wrench on the rear left screw, the one just in front of the A/C plenum (09 GM) so I just broke out the bottom shell with a 19 inch wrecking bar that had a 2 inch wide straight end. I saw somewhere on youtube that the screw can be reached with left hand through the radio hole and right through the air bag hole - I didn't remove the radio so don't know if this would work. The tab broke off the shell cleanly so I just left it in with the screw. On the new unit I trimmed the tab off and only used 2 screws, the easy one tightened. Used a fine hacksaw and a screw (for fit) to trim the far front tab so it would just "click" under the pre-set screw. It is a nasty (access) job but would be much easier the second time with just one screw to wrench. I don't think I would do it again at my age 79 on a car not done before to deal with the inaccessible screws. For me. it was brute force at two points: removing/replacing the vent duct and breaking out the last screw; I would rather not have to force things but Ford made me do it.

[@BozoseCompany]

appreciate the advise on this. Went in through pass. airbag, did not drop dash. Getting the old one out was most of the battle. Its like surgery for sure this part is absolutely buried and it was a huge pain and took a lot of patience and time. Breaking the clips and tearing off the top cover and stuff was helpful. Sort of have to wrestle it out but the clips are pretty weak, I removed the 2 screws on the right and then got in there with a flathead and just wrestled the top off, then got to the left side screws easier. Needed to cut out some insulation too for better access. I have the same car a '99 Crown Vic LX and for sure there's no way i could have done this with a basic 8mm wrench. A small 8mm ratcheting combi wrench (Husky) was helpful, and also for the back right screw i was able to loosen and eventually tighten that with with a slim 1/4" drive ratchet (Harbor Fright part# 67993) attached to a standard 8mm socket which i cut down with a hacksaw as much as possible. Be prepared to be ratcheting 1 or 2 clicks at a time, and if you have fat hands then idk this might not be the job for you. I like the your idea of clipping one of the tabs, I had planned to do that but i was actually able to tighten 3 of the 4 screws down, leaving the back left tab empty. Just be careful with the torque, it doesnt take much being plastic

[@alb12345672]

I did it today on a 98. Gear wrench vortex passthru is a lifesaver. Tightened the front two screws, back I notched and slid under the screws it was very tight. No need to mess with them. :lol: good for another 20 years.

[@DZEyoyo123]

I used a Tite-Reach wrench for the back screws that were hard to get on mine and used a gear wrench on the rest of the screws.

[@jfcrow1]

Yes - the Tite-Reach is the ideal tool for this application. Visited their website and thinking about buying a set - at a discount outlet of course.

[@looneytr]

Did you use 3/8 or 1/4 pro?

[@chriswhite2151]

Great info. I was thinking "there must be a tool for this" now I know the name of it! Thank you. Another excuse to buy another tool.

[@alb12345672]

@@chriswhite2151 I just did it today - used a gear wrench "vortex" pasthru system socket. broke off the old unit and slid the u shaped prepared tabs on the screws. Works fine.. You can loosed some dash screws and pull it back a bit, gives you bit more room. Still a pita job to take everything apart.

[@medhath6549]

thank you so much

[@n.b.p.davenport7066]

I haven't attempted this yet but would it be easier to take the whole unit out from the bottom, when do any other repairs like draining the radiator in there

[@dannydevito9514]

I gotta find one of those dash trims, clean factory option.

[@josephcook732]

nice peice by erik sat...

[@bobspurloc]

Nice! I was telling people just break it apart if the back screw is actually screwed to it. but yeah much faster just unclipping and removing the top. definitely when putting in the new one, clip the back ring to a C so it just slides to the back screw, there is no reason to tighten the back screw down. If the front 2 screws for some reason couldn't hold it in place it will be stopped from torqueing by the back C. too many people over think this. there is a video with a "SHOP" dude showing this removal and shows how he removed the Radio to help he says, but never puts his hand thru that hole during the process cuz well removing the Radio cant possibly help you lol. might as well remove the left rear tire too. lol. he also pulls the dash forward to get to the rear screw! why?? the screw is right there lol.

[@jfcrow1]

Thanks. Honestly I looked at all the video that were out there and based on all their work came to an optimal solution. I could probably do another replacement in under two hours now that I did this one. Necessity is the mother of invention.

[@bobspurloc]

next up with be replacing the O-Rings in the main unit. I didn't make a video about it but posted on the crownvic forum with pics about it. It's also pretty simple but definitely find it on the forum so you know which O-rings to buy. I believe I got them for under $5 off amazon, where people have them on ebay for like $10+ which is ridiculous. you will know when they are shot when it gets stuck I think blowing all the air at the windshield. actually I have a bah of them sitting in front of me lol. bag says S7007 007 Silicone O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Red, 5/32" ID, 9/32" OD, 1/16" Width. I paid $1.07 for 10, it looks like the dude on amazon only sells them in packs of 100 now for $8

[@teacherlynn671]

I want to be sure I have this right. You cut the back two back loops cut and you only put in the one easy front screw? or do you put in both front screws?

[@jeffreyconnor5371]

was able to remove all 3 screws without taking actuator apart. do remove radio. 8 mm open box combo. sturdy wire -about 2 feet worth twisted on itself to make about 1 ft. twist n wrap around wrench ,whatever end u want. use wire wrench combo to go through radio hole with left hand. feel for and place on screw with right hand(finger of your choice). glove box side screw easiest no need for wire wrench. radio side screw harder need wire wrench. those 2 off first. can reach engine side screw if you use a piece of wood or what to gently pry to get space over the top for your fingers. I first had to pivot actuator clockwise after screw 1n2 were removed. tabs on actuator somewhat flexible (motorcraft at least). did cut back tab for easier assembly. slow n steady. wire is like an extension and helps u to not drop wrench. 0

[@sd90mac61]

So how did u get (all the screws back on) once you've installed the new actuator??? Theirs jus NO ROOM.😭

[@jfcrow1]

You don't. Use two back screws for alignment by clipping the loop and sliding them on with the front screw tightened down. This prevents horizontal slipping of actuator. That is sufficient.

[@teacherlynn671]

My car is only blowing out of the vents. Is this the repair I need? Sadly I had the dash out and replaced the heater core and was going to replace then but I thought it was working fine.

[@scales57]

this repair only concerns the control of cold or hot air (or a blend) going through the system. Your problem is probably the o-rings in the EATC unit (dash unit). you can get a refurbishes unit for about $150+, or you can opt to fix the o-rings yourself. Check to see if you have vacuum at the EATC unit before, though. otherwise, you have a vacuum leak somewhere else, and the EATC units is ok....maybe

[@johndoe-ok6jb]

Shit i fell asleep before u did ANYTHING

[@jfcrow1]

That is my point. It is so easy you can do it in your sleep.

[@michaeldandrea9648]

😂😂 I’m glad I wasn’t the only one

[@J.D.Whiteye]

not bad.... didnt even have to remove 10 lbs of quarters

[@jfcrow1]

LOL

[@nomadic8577]

Brother, can you please help me locate the AC Evaporater. Thank you!

[@jccordova6716]

Does any one no the answer to my issues i have a P7B .. 2011 Vic ...ac was working fine in am and after work it didn't was blowing warm i put ac pro freon in it the ac motor was going off and on like it should car fan came on but still not cold i noticed while putting in the freon the pipes didn't feel cold anyone no why?

[@gregarycomehere]

Whats the name of the music

[@bobduffy7744]

Question for the 08 grand marquis lovers. My AC went out; I changed the blend door actuator & main control module. When I change the settings you can hear a click.. but no AC, no heat or cool. Almost like the blower motor isn’t going on. Any ideas? Any fuses to check? Again.. lol. I am getting error code 25 in the dash.

[@jeffreyconnor5371]

2007 grand marquis

[@466htrd]

Does this blend door just control the hot and cold function? Or does it control what vents the air comes out of? In my 09 Crown Vic the air is stuck on the floor and the front dash vents. It won't switch to defrost.

[@jfcrow1]

Just control Hot and Cold. I recommend you watch Ford HVAC System Stuck on Defrost: EATC Control Head Repair kzbin.info/www/bejne/hqXJppaElpuFldE

[@n1kkri]

Can you see the blend door lever without removing the air duct vent. I was wondering if I used something like a coat hanger with a hook to move the blend door lever from cold to hot without having to remove the air duct vent. Its still not clear to me how you remove it.

[@jfcrow1]

Have to remove air duct vent. It is not easily removed. Once all the screws are removed you need to physically push it left and right to get it out. Do not worry you will not break it but does take a lot of force. Was not designed to be removed like this. Depending on the model there may be a hidden screw.

[@n1kkri]

@@jfcrow1 From the video it almost looks like you could slide a coat hanger under the air duct vent and move the blend door lever.

[@jfcrow1]

@@n1kkri Maybe I am no expert. Try it and let me know.

[@n1kkri]

@@jfcrow1 I may have to. That air duct looks to be a problem. Its getting cold up here in New England and I need to move that blend door!

[@jfcrow1]

@@n1kkri Honestly it really isn't that difficult but you have to be a mechanic to do it. I hate how much dealers charge. I have my 99 crown vic and will keep it till it breaks down or I do. Anyway good luck.

[@kipster-ll6po]

How much did the part cost? Thanks for the very helpful video!!!

[@brittanyjames97]

Which actuator should I get for a crown Victoria?

[@teacherlynn671]

Also what is the name of the manual you have

[@ellisjenkins90]

Will this work for a 05 grand marquis??

[@dieseldabz7104]

elboogie90 yes

[@mesho2288]

What is the name of this piece and what is the number ?

[@raygibson1295]

Did you disassemble the new blend door then reassemble when it's screwed in.

[@jfcrow1]

No - The purpose is to disassemble the broken blend door by removing the top to get better access to the screws in the back. Once the broken blend door is removed you will not be able to install the new blend door with all four screws tightened. I listed some helpful videos which show how to do that. Basically you will tighten the front screw but use the back screws as alignment by clipping the loop to slide it on.

[@imserious2187]

So you don’t have to remove the entire dash like I’ve heard??

[@chevycaprice5289]

imserious2187 no just the airbag

[@Clydesdale50dan]

My 2011 Crown vic defroster won’t work. When I select defrost it only comes out the front vents. Is this the blend door actuator?

[@teacherlynn671]

I have the same problem PLEASE let me know if you find a solution. I believe we have a bad vacuum motor. It is not the blend dooor actuator however.

[@alb12345672]

@@teacherlynn671 Definitely not the blend door. Either a vac motor or the EATC unit is leaking vacuum.

[@teacherlynn671]

@@alb12345672 Thank you for replying and I guess I will try the o ring solution first

[@rixille]

This from what I heard, is one of the more difficult repairs to do on a Crown Vic. This is an otherwise very simple car to work on and maintain.

[@jfcrow1]

Yes - is difficult - but if know the tricks and have the right tools can be done very simply.

[@rixille]

@@jfcrow1 I own a 2000 and it has not ever had a failed blend door actuator yet. But if it does happen, I will be referencing your video. Thank you.

[@allgoesdown]

This by far is one of the easiest vehicles I have ever worked on with the exception of two this imo. This and the starter. I will never in my life replace another starter in this car.

[@rixille]

@@allgoesdown What made starter replacement so difficult?

[@allgoesdown]

@@rixille two of the three bolts that hold it in are in similar fashion to the two bolts against the firewall in this video. The hardest bolt takes about two feet of extensions for the socket due to space issues for the rachet which is not a direct path so you really hope and pray you slip it on just right since you will also need a socket adapter that swivels 90 degrees. Two of the bolts are easy with the right socket and extension combo but the Third will make you drink.

[@James-lb3jo]

I turn off the depressing music. Wait I will call my therapist now. Good content however but not the depressing music.

[@SilverBullet93GT]

that's the music you hear when your blend door actuator breaks.

[@dieseldabz7104]

2 hrs to remove and replace with a new actuator, without removing the entire dash or disassembling the actuator which will void any warranty you may have gotten when purchasing the new one. Not an 8hr job by any means. Just need the correct tools and some common sense

[@Doomzdayxx]

I actually like Scotty kilmer's idea with the garden hose valve going to the heater core, under the hood. $10 fix.

[@nickseulovski]

Dude u need to change the text color. That text against the dark grey car is horrible u can barely read it. Just a heads up

[@JoeSmith-cg9jq]

Hey John, where are you located? I'm dreading doing this tbh, haha, prolly just throw my friend a bit of money and have him help me, you know, to make sure I don't fudge anything. This is great though, shops were telling me 500+ for this repair!! GTFOH

[@wrdmndan]

man you look like your trippin,,,,,,,I can't take your music I know i'll mute it

[@thomasdigirolamo3361]

M

[@tobbyy125sammyy]

man this music sucs

[@barrysmith1654]

Why is that music necessary

[@jfcrow1]

Once downloaded I cannot change video. Wish I had not added this shitty music. Yes just mute it.

[@jfont5899]

depressing dam music 🤧

[@jfcrow1]

My first video and my first mistake.

[@mafatone]

These cars big time suck.

[@gregarycomehere]

Whats the name of the music