Blue Sea Systems WeatherDeck Fuse Panel Overview - EP 1

This is a brief overview of the Blue Sea Systems WeatherDeck Fuse Panel. Please hit like if you found this useful, many thanks.
Shot on iPhone 12 Pro
Recorded with Rode VideoMic NTG
Recorded with Rode Smartlav
For Entertainment Only
Link to alternate wiring idea: • Blue Sea Systems Weath...

[@coleah69]

Cool little video. Electrically incorrect tho. You have 2 fuses on one light. 😉

[@eastsidewrenching]

Thanks, good call. Without even considering if it was necessary I used the alligator clips with an inline 5A fuse just in case the +/- clips touched while they were right beside each other. In hindsight, yes the inline fuse was unnecessary, the 1A fuse would have blown. I hope it doesn't sound like I suggested soldering in an inline fuse after each switch

[@rogerbuchanan9600]

very clear description of how to install and how it works!

[@BeTactical]

So helpful, exactly what I needed!

[@CaptBull]

Nice video that demonstrates the guts and the outside of the switches. As far as at the end of your video when you talk about a big bulky switch, most votes that are running multiple accessories such as pumps, vhf, radar, different lights, etc will already have two batteries on the boat with a battery switch. Blue seas makes an awesome add a battery system and before I leave my boat I turn the switch off which shuts off power completely to the entire boat so there's no worry of ever having any LEDs draining. Sorry for being kind of long-winded but the short answer would be if you have that many accessories on switches you should have a battery shut off switch already.

[@necokgezdik3536]

perfect

[@buckreynolds1779]

I share same concern about led on all the time.

[@brianboylston4014]

Regarding the status LEDs always being lit: you can control this using the "dimmer control wire" (see the instructions). I'd have to check my setup to confirm, but I think I disconnected the dimmer control wire from the bus bar and connected it to a panel switch output so that that switch now controls the status LEDs. In my case, that same panel switch also powers my cabin lights (which each have individual switches in their fixtures).

[@dirtmcguirt6118]

Question, why do you need the negative bus bar? Can’t just wire the negative straight to the switch panel?

[@eastsidewrenching]

You don't need the negative bus, a wire to the battery negative terminal also works. The negative bus is a choice I made for organization

[@RhettyorNot]

How often do fuses go in these? I'm having trouble with two of my switches

[@eastsidewrenching]

If the fuses are sized appropriately, not often at all. I haven't blown any yet and I am running way smaller fuses than 15A

[@DaRealGust0]

Why did you add an In-Line Fuse to the bow light when there was already a 1 AMP fuse in place?

[@eastsidewrenching]

That was a mistake. I used it in case the positive and ground alligator clips touched, but the 1 amp fuse would have been sufficient

[@DaRealGust0]

@@eastsidewrenching ahh gotcha, thanks for the reply 👍

[@ty1977]

I got my 8 switch installed and doesn’t light up . Do some not light up? Thanks

[@eastsidewrenching]

"Switch Only" panels do not appear to have LEDs

[@ty1977]

@@eastsidewrenching thank you

[@rico2207]

It's OK they don't draw hardly any amp micro amps

[@barrafishing1156]

Why you change the fuse

[@eastsidewrenching]

In the event of a short circuit, those 22AWG bow light wires are really small for 15 amps. They could melt through the insulation before the fuse blows. I usually just use the smallest fuse that will support the component without nuisance tripping, or google "Blue Sea Systems Ampacity Chart" for bigger wires. Changing the fuse in this video was just to demonstrate that swapping in smaller ATC fuses is worth considering.

[@artiekellerdrums4440]

Never use a different gauge wire for your ground. Always use the same gauge for both legs.

[@GTboosted]

The ground is for illumination only