BMW 316i F30 N13 coolant pump replacement

Car: BMW 316i F30 /2012, N13 engine
Water pump part number: 11517648827
Water Pump Pulley part number: 11517619020
Venting cooling system
Filling without vacuum filling unit:
- cold engine.
- Open bleeder screw on coolant expansion tank.
- Top up the cooling system to the lower edge of the expansion tank until the coolant level in the expansion tank no longer drops. (I added over 4 liters of coolant to the MAX level)
- Connect battery charger.
- Switch on ignition and low-beam headlight.
- Switch off the air conditioning.
- Set heater to maximum temperature and turn blower down to lowest speed.
- Driving experience switch must not be set to ECO PRO!
- Wait for approx. 1 min. (I expected the auxiliary electrical pump to circulate the coolant but this didn't seem to happen)
- You may need to top up the coolant to the lower edge of the expansion tank. (coolant level did not drop)
- Tighten bleeder screw on coolant expansion tank.
- Close coolant expansion tank.
- Start engine.
- Draining procedure:
Press accelerator pedal 10x up to approx. 3000 rpm
1 s increased idle to approximately 1200 rpm
Press accelerator pedal 10x up to approx. 3000 rpm
1 s increased idle to approximately 1200 rpm
Press accelerator pedal 10x up to approx. 3000 rpm
- Stop engine.
- Fill coolant expansion tank to 100 ml above maximum. (I filled it again to the MAX level)
After this I took a drive to circulate and bleed the coolant with the heater set to maximum temperature) until I got the coolant temperature up to the normal operating temperature. I did not need to top up the coolant again after the ride.

[@robyxon1]

Very detailed and explanatory DIY tutorial! Good angles, excellent light and a touch of artistic ingredients makes me proud of you, Cosmin! I'm eager for more DIY to come, so: 1) roll up your sleeves 2) get your toolbox 3) open the hood 4) OPEN A BEER OR TWO and 5) press REC button Cheers!

[@CodrutKrAzZzyyy]

Great video/tutorial! Only thing I did different was to bolt back the old pulley after I unbolted the waterpump - I did this so I can pull on the larger surface area of the pulley, rather than the smaller water pump thing.

[@CosminRotaru]

That's a good idea!

[@JorgeAlvarez-mg3sr]

Thanks for your tutorial, totally helpful 💯

[@CosminRotaru]

Glad it was helpful!

[@EE-nu2gh]

Great video, thanks for sharing

[@CosminRotaru]

Thanks for watching!

[@innocentsihle51295]

Very helpful thanks.

[@CosminRotaru]

Glad it was helpful!

[@artobell]

Ce pot sa spun? Foarte frumos lucrat, atat din punct de vedere cinematografic dar si mecanic. Felicitari.

[@bizzy]

Hi there's. Can share how to open the turbo coolant return pipe removal? I try to remove but seems stuck..

[@stRing-Agenda]

Thanks for good tutorial. Any hint about torque for bolts (pump and pulley wheel)?

[@CosminRotaru]

Hi! It's 9Nm for the coolant pump to crankcase bolts (M6x30 bolts) and 10Nm for the water pump gear to coolant pump bolts (M6x12). Also 10Nm for the friction gear to crankcase (M6x20 bolts). As you can see in the video I was lazy and did not use the torque wrench :)

[@pericodelospalotillosverdes]

good process and clear instructions and points of view also excellent, the tightening torques on the screen are missed, the mixture of the coolant, the pump with a plastic gear is not the most convenient, they are motors that get very hot and that material does not dissipate that excess temperature, I would have replaced the tensioner and all the screws at what kms is this action carried out?

[@CosminRotaru]

Thank you! I changed the pump and pulley at 80.000km. I had no real indication that it should need changed. I felt a bit of play in the bearings and did not know if it was more than it should. The new pump feels like it had the same play. So probably the old one did not need changing but it was fun anyway 🙂

[@karldagnall8438]

Cool video. Why do you have to remove the small black screw before topping up?

[@CosminRotaru]

Thank you! You mean the bleeder screw? So that air can escape from the system while adding coolant.

[@karldagnall8438]

@@CosminRotaru thank you. Is that with the engine running?

[@joegoh1968]

Thanks. I have just replaced the lower coolant hose with a new original BMW hose (the one that connects to the pump and the bottom of the reservoir. After bleeding .. i drove the car for around 15 mins and the connector at the bottom of the reservoir popped out. I clicked the hose back to the reservoir (made sure the metal locking clip was in place), top up with coolant, bleed .... and same thing happened after 15 mins. It seemed the pressure in the tank popped the hose out. Am I doing something wrong or should i change to a new reservoir? Any suggestion would be useful.

[@CosminRotaru]

I don't know how that connects. Usually they have a retaining metal clip that has to be push in it's place or a metal collar over the hose. But I've never change that hose and i don't really know...

[@ndumbadavid20]

@@CosminRotaru thanks a lot sir 🙏

[@oyumerov5726]

What I do is firts drain the coolant system from the radiator and for that I disconnect the coolant hose from the radiator on the driver seat. Otherwise you can harm your other parts like starter motor or electrical power steering etc.

[@CosminRotaru]

Hi! Why? Corrosion?

[@betounivazo3452]

Hello friend, I have a problem with my mechanical BMW 114i 2014 N13 1.6 turbo engine. The car vibrates and has no power when driving, an unstable relationship. I changed the injectors, the pressure can pump, we tuned the car, new spark plugs, new coils and the problem remains the same. Have you ever experienced a similar problem?

[@CosminRotaru]

Hi! I would try to run some diagnostics first. I am not a mechanic. This is just a hobby for me - i like to work on my own cars. So every time i have a problem i have to investigate and research...

[@leratomokwena4429]

Thank you for this video, my pump is leaking, and your video came very informative. If i may ask, is the new pump from BMW or is a different make and supplier?

[@CosminRotaru]

Hi! Not original…

[@leratomokwena4429]

​@@CosminRotaruthank you sir,how long can that go for or you have maintenance intervals where you determine when to change it before it gets faulty?

[@CosminRotaru]

@@leratomokwena4429 i don't really know. There was a sound which i thought it might come from the water pump bearing. And i also noticed a small play, but the new replacement pump seemed to have almost the same... I don't know what the replacement interval should be...

[@leratomokwena4429]

​@@CosminRotarubut you've had no issues with the replacement pump?

[@CosminRotaru]

@@leratomokwena4429 no issues🙂

[@vladalexandru2369]

Very good tutorial! I’ve got a question, my AC in my car is working perfectly but when I put the heater on I get no heat inside the car . I’ve checked coolant levels it’s fine , But believe I’ve got a coolant charger pipe leak , or a faulty thermostat or water pump . If you have any idea what it can be please let me know Many thanks

[@CosminRotaru]

Salut Vlad! Same engine? Does the coolant temperature gauge shows proper coolant heating? Do you have an additional heater (webasto)?

[@robertdean3974]

what was wrong witht the old unit?

[@CosminRotaru]

Thank you! I changed the pump and pulley at 80.000km. I had no real indication that it should need changed. I felt a bit of play in the bearings and did not know if it was more than it should. The new pump feels like it had the same play. So probably the old one did not need changing but it was fun anyway 🙂

[@ndumbadavid20]

Hello sir, I have a question please. What should be done in case the water pump pulley stops rotating and it refuses to connect to the small metal wheel on the tensioner between crankshaft pulley and water pump pulley? I tried to adjust it properly. The water pump pulley worked on the first start of the engine but unfortunately it stops working on the next start of the engine. Otherwise I have to adjust the tension again and again that’s when it will work. Like I said earlier on, every time I start the engine I have to adjust it. What’s the solution to this problem sir? I am having a BMW 116i F20 N13 Engine.

[@CosminRotaru]

Hi! I'm not sure i understand the problem. The metal pulley is automatically retracted by a motor inside that arm. It is controlled by the engine ECU and it is not supposed to engage at all times. The engine ECU will engage the water pump (with that metal pulley) depending on engine temperature and driving mode. Just make sure the plastic tab is released as you can see in my video.

[@ndumbadavid20]

@@CosminRotaru thanks a lot sir. I have been doing that all the time but the friction pulley fails to engage to the water pump pulley to rotate. Thanks once again sir 🙏🙏

[@CosminRotaru]

@@ndumbadavid20 i cannot check right now but i think the default position should be engaged. And then that should be the fail safe position. Basically is there's a problem it should be the other way around: failing to disengage. With the engine off is it engaged or disengaged?

[@ndumbadavid20]

@@CosminRotaru When the engine is off, the friction pulley disengage from the water pump pulley. And whenever I start the engine, it won’t engage till I have to switch off the engine and align it. I have been doing this all the time and every time before I start the engine. So far, my car is having 53 736 Km (mileage)

[@CosminRotaru]

@@ndumbadavid20 i can't imagine what is there to align 🤔 Are you sure the plastic tab is pushed all the way in? See at minute 7:50 in my video.