BMW Axle Replacement - BMW E90 E91 E92 E93 Rear Half Shaft / CV Axle / Drive Shaft Replacement

[@StevenBTuner]

Who is ready to DIY replace their own drive shafts? Here is a breakdown of the chapters in this video: 0:02 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Intro 0:21 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Special Tools Required 2:39 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Remove Wheel Center Cap 2:54 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Remove Axle Nut 4:20 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Mark Normal Ride Height 4:35 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Secure and Lift Car 5:35 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Optionally Remove Exhaust and Chassis Strengthening 5:55 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Remove Control Arm 6:40 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Remove Bolts from Differential 8:29 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Remove Differential End of Drive Shaft 9:01 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Remove Hub End of Drive Shaft 9:58 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Maneuver out the Drive Shaft 10:38 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Made with GKN Parts 11:00 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Check the Nut and Grease the Shaft 11:25 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Install Hub End of Drive Shaft 13:40 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Install Differential End of Drive Shaft 16:37 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Reinstall the Suspension Control Arm 19:18 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Torque Up the Axle Nut 20:48 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Bend Axle Nut Locking Tabs 21:40 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Torque Wheel Nuts and Finish the Job 22:30 BMW E90 Driveshaft Replacement - Outro

[@edwardruelas3116]

I would be if you did the driveshaft. These are axels

[@StevenBTuner]

@@edwardruelas3116 Hi, thanks for watching! The 'correct' name varies depending on where you live, and unfortunately I can't fit every variant in the short youtube title.

[@peterdavidhallam]

Best BMW DIY video I have ever seen. Thank you so much. I decided to replace the bearings, and arms at the same time as it seemed to make sense. Thanks to your video I was able to get the CV axle out really easily. Just struggling to remove the hub and bearing now though so will try some other tools later.

[@StevenBTuner]

Glad it helped you out!

[@Cheezwizzz]

I find your videos quite relaxing to watch.

[@rodneyrouchy7130]

Hi, thanks, great vid, don’t see the tools list? Looking for the same socket wrench

[@curioussand1339]

Nice video. I did the left hand side on my E61, exhaust had to be lowered and axel spline were rusted to the point where my 10 ton hydraulic hub puller spindle started to bend. But got it removed. 13 year old car with what corresponds to 222.000 miles on the clock. Certainly not a walk in the park. Note that the original driveshaft is a lightweight hollow construction whereas the replacement part is thinner but solid.

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, nothing quite like rust for making a job 10 times worse!

[@kar4tube]

I wanted to add a word of caution to any DIY'ers attempting this. I'm working on replacing the rear wheel bearings on my '09 E82. My car has no undercarriage rust whatsoever, as it has spent most of its life in Southern Texas, and more recently in Southern California. I attempted removing the axle from the hub using multiple techniques, all ending in futility and/or broken tools. I'm down to the choice of trying a hydraulic press or buying brand new knuckles/axles/hubs/fasteners. My conclusion is that it's pure luck of the draw determining how straightforward it is to remove your axle. Just do a quick KZbin search on stuck BMW axles. Suffice to say there a lot.

[@StevenBTuner]

Very true indeed. Any parts that have been on the car for more than 10 years are going to be a big problem for sure. My advice is to always drive your car hard so that the axles don't last more than 5 years ;-)

[@aaronc9279]

Hi Steven what's the reason for removing the control arm? My drive shaft was really badly seized/stuck, would removing the control arm make it easier for the drive shaft to come out? Because I skipped that step. Thanks

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, on my car it makes it 10 times easier. On other models it doesn't make as much difference.

[@D4all66]

@@StevenBTuner Sorry for this idiot question from Sweden. I have a 318i E91 2012 143Hk and i am on the way doing this but i am not used to work with these things on cars. If i can do it without removing the control arm i assume i dont have to mark the suspension with a pen ?

[@Cozstreams1]

@@D4all66 no you dont have to. But the control arm may be in the way. Its much easier to have more space to work with. But if you dont have the tools to get it back on properly i would recommend you trying without removing it.

[@D4all66]

@@Cozstreams1 Thx!

[@shallah777]

Thanks man. Your video saved me hundreds of dollars

[@StevenBTuner]

Awesome to hear!

[@zalanchaba]

Hi, I had this work done by a garage in August. Whilst I was driving the car, my passenger side rear driveshaft came completely loose from the differential. I found some of the bolts and washers on the road they were all bent. I had to get it towed to a nearby garage, do you think I should get in contact with the garage that had the work done originally ? What are the chances they will fix their mistakes for free, and what could have been the reason it came completely loose ? Also this could have been really dangerous if it happened on the motorway going 70mph, luckily I was just in second gear driving in the town.

[@StevenBTuner]

They might have used the wrong bolts or re-used the old ones or not done them up correctly. None of those reasons would make me very confident in their work.

[@carterkellum8653]

This guide is very detailed, bravo! Where do you get those exploded assembly drawings? And do they tell you the hardware on an index?

[@carterkellum8653]

Nevermind, I found it! www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=VB13-USA-07-2005-E90-BMW-325i

[@JSPVid]

I've replaced driveshaft and damper at same time. To get more flexibility removed stub axle end of control arm and two other links to stub, but find tightening the bolt through the control arm is too tight. I've adjusted height and maneuvered, but is there a knack?

[@JSPVid]

Answering my own issue, I loosened off the other two 18mm bolts which I'd tightened but short of torquing them up. I also measured off the ride height with wheel back on to ensure correct geometry. I also sprayed silicone on the exposed bolt to reduce friction and WD40 into the rusty orifice it was aiming for. I then managed to tighten with 18mm spanner without stripping thread all the way home. Awkward to get a torque wrench on. With both hands pulling on the spanner in small turns I really don't think that's coming off. On another point I don't think you mentioned the torque setting for drive shaft 6x 10mm torx bolts into diff' flange. Research showed should be 22 Nm. That seems low. My wrench starts at 28Nm. You said add 10Nm on for extension bars. So would be around 30Nm although the 1/2inch extension bars are pretty straight, which is just past where my wrench begins and seemed like a light touch before 'clicking'. I guess avoids snapping bolts. Earlier when I removed the driveshaft which has been an utter pain, I used 1/2 bars with a 3/4 turn bar. Two bolts stuck snapped off with modicom force. Absolute nightmare getting shaft off. I grinded, drilled, eventually took three stub axle arms off to get flanges apart then freezing spray and that worked to get bolts out with stemsons. Tested car jjust now and no Traction Control problems, so I guessed off-side right first time. I'll still do near/side as have the parts (driveshaft, new bolts, damper). Your video is fantastic. A professional video company must have made it for you. Extremely well made. The only I'd find useful I didn't see is clearly stating verbally, graphic and text in description the bolt sizes and torque settings. I don't think you stated driveshaft bolts were 10mm, I got mislead online and wasted time/money on 8mm. I also invested in a range of 3/4 socket tools and torx sockets, and although BMW used a range of sizes as you said, it seems most are a common size which I think was 30mm for axle and an E12 Torx for drive shaft bolts. Hard to get the right ones. I bought a couple of cheapo sets of 3/8 shallow sockets, not ideal, a box of good quality 1/2 torx sockets and then finally the long impact 1/2inch E12 which looks like yours that works a treat; link is here to buy: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001NYXEQ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or search "KS Tools 515.1053 Impact socket ETX, deep, 1/2", E12"

[@StevenBTuner]

The only knack is to track down high quality sockets and spanners that are thinner (but still strong) so they will fit in the tight spaces.

[@JSPVid]

@@StevenBTuner Hi Steve, great video, doing the other side it was going so well, only needed to unbolt the lower arm to free driveshaft from diff end, BUT then driveshaft is jammed in Hub! Heat on hub, cold freeze spray on shaft, lots of WD40 both sides in between, resorted to hitting with weighty hammer after the Puller snapped 3 of the 5 claws and the rod that pushes into shaft bent out of shape. Tomorrow I'll get my Kango breaker on it. I'm a believer that just pressing isn't enough, it needs shock and ore, it'll get that from the Kango. If that doesn't work and shaft/thread is OK I'll just keep the old shaft, it was working fine, just trying to do the right thing doing both sides and new bolts etc. If it works, winner, new Brenbo disc brakes, pads, good quality shocks, shock mounting kit and hopefully two new drive shafts.

[@StevenBTuner]

@@JSPVid You are doing all the right things - I hope it will work out!

[@JSPVid]

@@StevenBTuner Lol, not really, couldn't get the 'good' driveshaft off, so fitted 6x bolts back in, then found the hub end was wobbly. I'd over heated and whacked it. That effects the bearing. So have had to buy a new bearing and new job is to remove new brake disc, remove hub with jammed driveshaft and press it out and press a new bearing in. Should have left it alone!

[@efontanilla73]

what is the torque spec of the rear axle mounting bolt?

[@ernesttaylor5685]

Trying to replace a water pump and thermostat for a BMW 528XI. What do you recommend?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, if you choose to go with cheaper than BMW parts then they can still be okay if it is a good brand - but I would really recommend using the BMW gasket set, as it is better than any other I have seen.

[@sven4921]

I clutch dumped my 318i from a standstill with stability control off and i got a lot of wheelhop shifted into 2nd and my rear left snapped limped home somehow not sure if its the driveshaft but cars not driveable now as soon as i try to move it rear left wont spin its just grinding

[@StevenBTuner]

Ah, the trouble with trying to spin the wheels on a car that has everything setup from the factory for maximum grip... You'll have to take the driveshaft out before you'll know whether it is the diff, driveshaft or wheel bearing that you have damaged.

[@sven4921]

@@StevenBTuner did so its the diff...found a 90k mls one but now im afraid same could happen...will get coilovers,ive 19' alloys,but the linkages and all that are suuuper suuuper thin and weak,thats why i was thinking to put a lsd in so the tear and wear is equally distributed not just one side every mechanic said dont not worth for this car.

[@StevenBTuner]

@@sven4921 Hi, your mechanic is probably right - but that doesn't mean that you can't have some fun! Weld the diff, replace all of the diff bushings, gearbox bushings and sub-frame bushings with stiff polyurethane, add those coilovers, pump up the rear tires to the max and then go drifting :-) (on private land of course)

[@sven4921]

@@StevenBTuner thanks so much for recommending that I seen ppl are doing it but didn't know if it does anything its reassuring that you say it.its just that I cant weld the diff becouse the car is my Daily and it would be hopping around haha.Not in a financial situation to have 2 cars insured im in ireland and on a learner permit my insurance be 5k until I get no claim bonus.

[@Donnner93]

Doing the same on my E90 from 2011, Needed to replace the ABS-ring on the left side, and decided it would be easier to do the entire driveshaft. But have to remove the exhaust to get clearance it seems, as it doesn't seem to be separable I have to remove the bolts all the way from the front of the car to get rid of the system.. This video makes it seem, do-able tho, cheers

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, it's not the worst exhaust system to remove. When you come across a rubber mount, it is usually easier to unbolt the complete bracket from the gearbox etc rather than wrestle with it. To get the exhaust out you will need to remove the chassis support brace, but that is straightforward. Make sure you have a long socket that will remove the axle shaft to diff bolts before starting the job. All the best with it!

[@CinematicsHD]

I have the same problem but I have a newborn so I think im going to just bring mine into bmw

[@spencerhulme1203]

Thanks for the video Steven much appreciated as is your time in showing us

[@StevenBTuner]

Welcome!

[@harpindersingh7197]

What is socket size or what it is called for those star shaped bolts on axle

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, the Torx bolt can be 2 different sizes, so you have measure them before you buy the thin-walled deep socket or the replacement bolts from BMW.

[@harpindersingh7197]

@@StevenBTuner what is the size in ur case

[@zzipgamer7381]

the socket size is 36

[@wiggomcfly3396]

Mine was a 30mm

[@UnknownDevice-tf3wg]

Perfect! Thank god for men like you. Very easy to understand

[@StevenBTuner]

Glad to help!

[@Stuhuge85]

Hello mate I notice the drive shaft has no abs ring? Mine are the same and I have abs faults do I need to fit rings?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, the ABS system uses the wheel bearing on these cars, not a ring on the driveshaft. The sensor could be the fault though - all the best in getting everything working 100%.

[@Stuhuge85]

@@StevenBTuner thank-you

[@stewarthunter8470]

Nice Video, thanks for taking time to upload. I've got both sides to do tomorrow. Last year I was getting ABS fault which was as a result of corroded reluctor ring. In order to fit the reluctor I had to go through the same rigmarole removing the driveshaft and refitting it. It was a bit of a bodge as there was a lot of corrosion on the driveshaft too and the reluctor did not fit snugly so I ended up putting some chemical metal on it (ran a bead around the shaft)to get the reluctor to fit snug. At the time I ordered 2 new driveshafts as didn't expect the fix to last but lasted 13mnth until just started same problem today. Luckily I kept the parts so my Sunday is all booked up now. So the moral of this story is that instead of changing the reluctor rings I should have waited until the driveshafts arrived and done the job then as I'm now having to do the same job twice.

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, that's great information for anyone who has the same issue! The only consolation is that the job takes a lot less time the second time you do it...

[@fernandoalvarez4706]

Im having the same issue...Did the new drive shaft have a reluctor ring included? And where did you order from?

[@stewarthunter8470]

@@fernandoalvarez4706 Hi, yes they were pre-inststalled on the driveshafts. I got them off of eBay

[@benreeve9130]

Did you not grind all the corrosion off where the old reluctor ring sat before installing the new one. A correct repair should last way longer than that.

[@stewarthunter8470]

@@benreeve9130 yes, that was the issue. Once I'd removed all the corrosion it was too worn down for the reluctor to fit snugly, hence having to build it up a bit with chemical metal

[@njames6002]

Thanks for the guide! Looking to replace both rears on my manual 320i. When ordering the parts online the left and right sides are different lengths is that right?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, there is sometimes some variance even on the same models, so it is best to search on your car's VIN to get the exact part numbers for the left and right side - you can use a site like www.realoem.com All the best with the job!

[@Torcalie]

need to replace mine but just found my driveshaft nut has completely rotted away 😬

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, there is a chance that it will never come apart and it can be easier to find a good used wheel hub. All the best in getting your car back on the road!

[@estebanlegrand7128]

@@StevenBTuner It's the same thing for me, I discovered that today. I juste need to remove all connections to the brake/wheel/direction and the shaft ? Btw very nice video.

[@StevenBTuner]

@@estebanlegrand7128 I hate rust! It all depends on what else down there is rusted together...

[@gedgreen2284]

Steven, I know this video is 3 years old but I’m disabled. I’m 53 and not long been trying to work on my cars. I was having issues on how to remove the cv joint so I could install a new cv boot ( the cone method wouldn’t work) Thank you for the info

[@StevenBTuner]

Really glad it helped you out!

[@river_63]

Thanks for the video. Why did U replace your drive shaft? Any noise? or broken?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, thanks for watching! It was getting old and noisy.

[@river_63]

@@StevenBTuner Thanks. How old your car?

[@StevenBTuner]

The car in the vid is from 2005.

[@gabeortiz237]

Hey Steven I’m working on my 2006 bmw 330I Manuel it had gotten side swiped on the high way it suffered body damage and most of the control arms as in the trailing the upper forward and upper rearward I’ve already replaced the bent and broke but as I’m looking at my axles I noticed one my passenger side is longer than my driver side by 3 or so inches is there a difference in automatic and Manuel rear axles? Or do you know if they are interchangeable??

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, all the best in getting your car back to 100% again! There is a lot of possibilities when in comes to axles, so it is best to look up the part number using your VIN using a site like www.realoem.com , and you can see if the auto variant has the same part number.

[@Genesislights]

My biggest issue was inserting the drive shaft to the hub spline. I guess the spline has a slight taper on them. Tempted to create thin walled axle nut so I can just draw the drive shaft out.

[@StevenBTuner]

Yes, I know what you mean - sometimes they just don't go in quite far enough for the threads to grab.

[@saterra2022]

Glad I subscribed! We need such detailed videos about coding of BMW!

[@StevenBTuner]

More to come!

[@guillermogq2286]

Dear Steven, when I try to put the first gear in and the car is cold, it is really hard, but after a while, when the car get hot, it works properly. I have read and it seems it is really common issue. Could you give me hand? Thanks a lot!!

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, thanks for watching! It doesn't sound like something that is nice to live with, and I wouldn't say it is that normal unless it is a Ferrari ;-) A badly adjusted or almost worn out clutch can effect gear selection as well as worn gear linkages. It can also be the gearbox itself, which should have its oil changed every 100,000 kms or 60,000 miles. And of course there is the worst case that the gearbox is getting to the end of its life.

[@guillermogq2286]

@@StevenBTuner thank you very much Steven! I'll continue investigating, driving like this is really disgusting.

[@jack504]

Great video as always 👍 One question, how did you diagnose this shaft? I've got a bit of rear end noise at the moment, pretty sure it's not the bearings but there are 5 cv joints with the prop shaft and 2 axle shafts. Maybe I'll have to just wait till it gets worse. Goes away over 20 mph.

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, it can be difficult to tell as there is very good sound insulation in the car as well as a lot of the components wearing out very slowly. In my case it was a grinding vibration that rose and fell in frequency for every turn of the road wheels. Note that a similar sound can be caused by a very small build-up of rust on the differential casing, so check for that before buying anything. You are correct in thinking that is usually best to wait for the issue to get a bit worse so that it can be more easily identified.

[@bounty123boy]

Hi there, superb video. I will be following this procedure over the coming days. I have a Bmw E90 and I'm replacing the rear drivers side english vehicle. Could you please give me the torque settings for the E12 bolts and the big nut, mine is a 36mm. Many thanks in advance and thank you for your amazing in depth video.

[@StevenBTuner]

I'd love to hear how it goes! With torque settings it is always best to find a workshop manual for the country you are in, as there are a bunch of variants worldwide - and I wouldn't want to give you the wrong one.

[@eddyfrutos7825]

What special tool can I use for my E92 axle shaft? I used this special tool but it barely doesn't fit and I need one slightly bigger to press out the axle shaft if there anyway you can help?

[@StevenBTuner]

A gas heating torch and a really big hammer can help.

[@alexilea238]

Hi.. My name it's Alex and I'm living near Tarm😊I have a e91 from 2009 who has a problem with the passenger occupancy sensor... If someone it's sitting on the seat its popping a warning on the dash... What can I do?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi Alex from near Tarm! With that kind of issue it is probably a broken wire to the sensor, as wires that get moved all the time will eventually break. It could be the sensor itself or a fuse too of course.

[@JonniH18]

Hey, I’m currently changing my driveshaft on my bmw. Why do you have to remove the control arm?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, thanks for watching! Removing the control arm makes everything come out and go in easily with no wrestling, and it isn't even necessary to remove the chassis bracing (at least for the right hand side).

[@JonniH18]

@@StevenBTuner ahhh thanks for you help👍 wish I watched your video before I started haha. Was having trouble removing the outer cv joint only got 5mm movement on the shaft and then nothing. Thanks 👍

[@qx4n9e1xp]

Absolutely excellent video! 👌🏼 Now I feel confident installing my new minimal-slip diff & axles!

[@StevenBTuner]

All the best with the new setup!

[@djkingpin8786]

I’m trying to use a puller and I can barely turn it anymore and this axle isn’t budging. I even tried heat. 😩. Any more suggestions ?? Should I go buy a sledge?

[@StevenBTuner]

Oh no! That isn't always fixable, although a big hammer is certainly the right place to start. Sometimes things are so rusted in place that they either have to be ground out or everything has to be replaced with new or used parts in good condition.

[@djkingpin8786]

@@StevenBTuner thank you sir. I actually already started pricing a new hub. If a sledge doesn’t work I’ll just remove the whole hub assembly. Thanks!!

[@Dookofalldinks]

If the thread is damaged and the nut doesnt go back on what are the options to this issue?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, there are a few remaining companies out there who will fix or replace cv axles - but they usually deal with race cars, so their prices may mean that replacement is cheaper. A good welding and fabricating company could perhaps re-make the thread as well. There are plenty of mechanics who would get out their biggest air ratchet and make it go on - which leaves the problem of removal for some other time...

[@flippy9133]

what could be the symptoms of bad half shaft? my e87 makes clunk/pop sound from the rear when turning left and sometimes when reversing over unaven surface. It usually does it only once per drive then its fine.

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, they are often super tricky to diagnose because they last so long, and the signs of them going bad take a long time to fully show up. Sometimes the best strategy is to wait for a more consistent noise. Of course it is worth checking the suspension joints/bushings and diff bushings to make sure that it is not something else causing the noise.

[@elonquemattheson6151]

Do you have a link to the driveshaft you used?

[@joshchandler2331]

Great video, thanks for your work. Subbed. My E90 has a lot of play in the left rear axle - I can jiggle the brake disc 1/4 inch all the way round. I'm guessing it's the hub and not the drive axle? Car was recently rear-ended on the left rear, pretty hard.

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, sounds like the hub or wheel bearing, or both. In that kind of accident it is very likely that the control arms are all a bit bent too (it is what they are designed to do), so often it can be a good idea to get everything from a donor car (control arms, hub, and axle).

[@ddamianRC]

Steven what was the symptoms of the damaged driveshaft? Great tutorial :)

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, thanks for watching! It was a grinding type of vibration.

[@ddamianRC]

@@StevenBTuner I have a vibrations of the passenger seat headrest at 70-75 mph and dont know what can be. I change shaft flexible coupler, shaft support and so on....

[@StevenBTuner]

@@ddamianRC Hi, if I were to put odds on it, I would say that vibrations at that speed are 9 times out of 10 to do with a damaged wheel or a slightly egg-shaped tire. If you can swap over to a second set of wheels/tires then you can eliminate the possibility pretty easily.

[@daidinero7745]

Careful guys if your car is higher mileage . Take your time retreading the bolts in . My 3 hour job has turned to 2 weeks .

[@StevenBTuner]

That's definitely sounds like working on older cars...

[@moderngamers]

Hey there, one thing I’m curious is why did you replace it? What problems did you have?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, it was suffering from a groaning sound.

[@ccccchao]

Anyone know the correct torque for the 30mm collar nut? Been searching for hours on google still no answer,

[@StevenBTuner]

I have it listed as 300Nm /221 lbf ft - but that is for a 27mm shaft. There are a lot of variants, so it is definitely worth getting a workshop manual for your particular model.

[@glennvrijsen9105]

For the M24 it’s 250 NM, for the M27 it’s 300 NM or 185 lb/ft and 221 lb/ft of torque respectively

[@ciepularys]

M24 is 145 nm + 45 deg for E90

[@qrystinngeier3686]

What is the torque on this vehicle?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, from memory it is 400Nm in gears 3 through 6, and is set lower for 1st and 2nd gear. The car has police specifications so it is a 320D with 325D axles.

[@azmaymi9237]

No reluctor rings? Abs rings on bmw rear axel?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, on this model they are built in to the wheel bearing.

[@Magnum5.9360]

Whats the process for the driverside?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, it is the same procedure except that there is the exhaust system to remove first.

[@simong.5535]

Are the drivers side and passenger side axles the same?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, the other axle is a bit more difficult as the exhaust pipe is in the way, so you have to remove it first - which means you have to deal with lots of potentially rusted/broken bits.

[@simong.5535]

@@StevenBTuner thanks for the reply. My question was actually about if the axles themselves are the same axle for both sides or if they are specific to each side. Thanks

[@suj1945]

​@@simong.5535 Specific to each side. The right hand side (if sitting in the drivers seat) is longer than the left.

[@shallah777]

Where did you get that tapered socket from?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, if I haven't added a link in the description, then I've forgotten...

[@The_Oracle]

This is great. Subscribed.

[@StevenBTuner]

Thanks for the sub!

[@The_Oracle]

@@StevenBTuner did the job this weekend.

[@martinandersson4227]

Awesome as always keep up the good work

[@StevenBTuner]

Thanks! Will do!

[@Kalium951]

I would not recommend tapping the back of the CV-joint like you do. I did that on my car and now that metal cover is a little loose so the CV joint is leaking grease. It's a non-replaceable part so I have to replace the whole axle which is very expensive.

[@StevenBTuner]

I just had a re-look at the video, and I do say to 'tap gently with a nylon dead-blow hammer'. Is that what you did? This part of the job can be a bit frustrating on some cars if the splines refuse to line up, so it is always best to remove it and re-insert it at a completely different angle...along with keeping those fingers crossed.

[@melvinmossberg2338]

Do you have sport chassie?

[@MsLauren1012]

Hola quería saber cuál es el síntoma, de esa pieza dañada ?

[@RosenIvanovPetkov]

Great instruction video

[@StevenBTuner]

Glad it was helpful!

[@simplelangperorock]

in the States, we call that ‘CV Axle.’ the Drive Shafts are the ones attached to the Giubo.

[@StevenBTuner]

:-) The title has been updated.

[@simplelangperorock]

@@StevenBTuner im a fan mate. keep doing your thang

[@StevenBTuner]

@@simplelangperorock Thanks - appreciate it!

[@Hoetobeajew]

why is it necessary to take off the control arm?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, thanks for watching! The axle shaft doesn't quite compress far enough to just slot it in without possibly damaging the very thin inner end cap. Once the arm is out of the way you can move everything out of the way to give an extra inch of clearance.

[@OnlyDamp]

You don’t need to, just loosen axle nut. Remove axle bolts to diff and jack under control arm you can drop the diff side of axle. Remove jack from under control arm and just pull axle out.

[@StevenBTuner]

@@OnlyDamp Hi, that doesn't seem to work for my car - but I have up-rated springs and a thicker anti-sway bar, which could easily make a difference.

[@OnlyDamp]

@@StevenBTuner which part won’t work for you?

[@StevenBTuner]

@@OnlyDamp Jack under the control arm - it doesn't move just one side of the suspension, it ends up lifting the whole car up. Next time I will try disconnecting the anti-sway bar to see if that makes enough of a difference. There is always potential issues when making videos about cars that have been modified away from stock...

[@Kipitrl]

Perfect timing! Thanks for the info!

[@StevenBTuner]

Any time!

[@andydempsey7297]

Hi Ste. Good video. Very helpful, I feel ready to have a go on my daughters series 1

[@StevenBTuner]

All the best with the job!

[@lucyxochi113]

Can you do a e60 5 series ?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, thanks for watching! There is not really any significant difference for an E60.

[@azmaymi9237]

What happens if u dont use original bmw parts?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, I haven't had good experiences with non-BMW or non-GKN CV axles in the past. They are often much harder to fit and also start giving trouble before one year has passed.

[@RCEngineTuner]

This is a good video! Thanks for uploading.

[@StevenBTuner]

Welcome!

[@tooberuber]

Terrific video! but... Look into extensions and whatnot on torque wrenches! If the bolt is in line with the wrench, there's no effect. If there are any angles or "doglegs" as might occur with crows feet, corrections must be applied. Torque can be effected either way, so just adding some to be safe isn't a good idea. It's never a good idea, as too much can be as bad as too little. The same issue exists when you're pushing down on the not-horizontal breaker bar. Force that's not perpendicular is deminished. Imagine if the bar were up at 90 degrees. Infinite force would produce no torque!

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, thanks for watching and raising a very important point! Getting a torque wrench anywhere near half the bolts under a BMW is pretty much impossible. The best accuracy is probably achieved by looking up the grade, size and pitch of the bolt and then calculating the angle needed to achieve the desired stretch. Could be a good video perhaps?

[@ayooian]

most helpful well explained video ive seen thank you

[@StevenBTuner]

Glad it helped!

[@jlewy2140]

great, very detailed video, thanks a lot !!

[@StevenBTuner]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Daniel-zr9xq]

Thankyou Steven - wonderful dear Sir .

[@robgnisir4708]

Should be noted that muffler pipe is not there and would be a sizable issue in the way.

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, if you are working on the left side then you will need to remove the exhaust system first.

[@demoguy08]

For anyone doing this, be careful in the step where you tap the axle back into the wheel carrier. Mine got proper stuck and I had to hammer on it hard. It ruined the wheel bearing.

[@StevenBTuner]

They can be a problem when they don't feel like lining up!

[@demoguy08]

@@StevenBTuner interestingly, the axle was more than halfway in. I suspect rust on the splines, but haven't taken a closer look yet.

[@demoguy08]

Update: so what I ended up having to do was to insert the axle while on the bench. It took a lot of hammering to get in, and I suspect poor machining tolerance on the new wheel hub (non-OE unfortunately).

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, bad tolerances like that are enough to drive you crazy!

[@lyndon_rich]

Just for anyone at hom, u DONT need to pull the control arm. U can slip the axle out without it

[@StevenBTuner]

Only on some models.

[@lyndon_rich]

I wanted to come and make a correction to what I said before. On MANUAL cars you do not need to pull the control arms. This is due to the different sized diff and axles. Push up and back while compressing the axle as much as u can and you’ll be good to go👍

[@Michael-rz9ey]

Finally new video!

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, thanks for watching and for being patient! :-)

[@slitherdurant]

Love you thank you very much. Very helpful

[@aacar4095]

What were the torque settings for diff hub bolts and for main axel nut?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, you'll have to look them up for your particular car and bolt size as there is quite a bit of variance.

[@cbpriv]

So what is the torque spec?

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, it varies depending on bolt size and type, so it is best to find the torque spec in a workshop manual for your country.

[@SiFuNatice]

hey steven, thanks

[@StevenBTuner]

You are most welcome!

[@nastynaz6033]

professional.

[@lancescott3283]

Snapped mine doing burnouts lol

[@StevenBTuner]

That's the usual reason for a quick failure - some nasty axle hop!

[@doms_cinema]

Same me , and I cant replace it , can’t undo driveshaft bolt for 2 days …

[@sundayking6870]

Should have replaced those leaking shocks at the same time.

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, thanks for watching! That is the anti-rust gunk I have to spray on the underbody because I live in an area where they love using road ralt.

[@baims8367]

Those hub /axle nuts 🌰 most all are now just rusted acorn nightmares !! No socket is fitting on those nightmares !

[@StevenBTuner]

Some jobs end up being a nightmare! I hope a gas torch and a big hammer get you in the right direction!

[@Seducier]

One is stuck and extractor socket not working. What to do?

[@nasimbaig6352]

Great.

[@StevenBTuner]

Thanks!

[@scottmarvin2935]

Learn the difference between an axle and a driveshaft

[@StevenBTuner]

Hi, thanks for watching! The terms are very much dependent on which country you are in. What the US refers to as a driveshaft is called a propeller shaft in many countries, for example, and a drive axle in Europe is a half-shaft in the US, and so on...

[@benreeve9130]

Rude

[@jimstrongone]

Rear Drive axle....