BMW R1150GS FINAL DRIVE PROBLEM.. SOLVED ! PART 4

  Рет қаралды 6,195

The Old Mechanic

The Old Mechanic

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 16
@randyburgos
@randyburgos Жыл бұрын
What a job. This guy is lucky he has you working on his motorcycle. Can’t wait to see the rest. Randy
@TheOldMechanic
@TheOldMechanic Жыл бұрын
👍🏻👊🏻
@cesarmeloni7672
@cesarmeloni7672 Жыл бұрын
I was able to see all 4 parts of the work. It is really excellent, like all the other videos. The small details always make the difference in the quality of the work. Congratulations once again, and thank you very much for sharing your expertise.
@TheOldMechanic
@TheOldMechanic Жыл бұрын
Your welcome Cesar
@miketube7856
@miketube7856 Жыл бұрын
Trotse eigenaar van een GS1150 uit 2002. Dit soort filmpjes zijn ontzettend handig om te kijken als ik zelf ook de cardan ga onderhouden/repareren. Bedankt voor de moeite, je hebt een abonnee erbij!
@TheOldMechanic
@TheOldMechanic Жыл бұрын
Thanks
@eternallearner8185
@eternallearner8185 Жыл бұрын
From one old mechanic to another, I really admire the quality of your videos and the quality of your practical explanations, however , I must disagree with you on one item in particular and that is the shim(s) that sit on the big bearing and provide the necessary pre-load on the bearing, you referred to these being set at the factory, problem with that is that a great many of the 1100/1150 final drives were incorrectly fitted at the factory where they were assembled and this error in pre-load is the main reason for premature life of the bearing. The BMW shop manual tells you to use a special BMW jig for this job, but the most effective, accurate and cheapest method is temporarily fit the cover over the bearing without the shims but instead small strips of soft solder or lead stuck on the bearing race edge with sticky grease, torque down the cover slowly and evenly, when done remove it again and measure the new flattened out widths of the pieces of solder, the shim must be .002" - .004" thicker than the now flattened solder pieces. I used measure rather than factory metric because the imperial measure is easier to remember. Keep up the good work!
@daledahlman9629
@daledahlman9629 5 ай бұрын
Thanks so much for your thorough video’s
@jeffreylindop5782
@jeffreylindop5782 Жыл бұрын
very good content, one of the better videos on this subject.
@redleadervfr-v4906
@redleadervfr-v4906 Жыл бұрын
Really great video very enjoyable and great inflammation on how to do an overhaul on a BMW shaft Drive. Just a point I was always led to believe that you had to use White Grease on the Splines!! Thank you for all that you are doing
@TheOldMechanic
@TheOldMechanic Жыл бұрын
Your welcome 👍🏻👊🏻
@adamzadori7977
@adamzadori7977 Жыл бұрын
Thanks!!!
@edsyphan3425
@edsyphan3425 Жыл бұрын
OM, somehow I didn't catch what the original failure was at the beginning. Also, what temp were you heating the housing up to? The heat gun was louder than your voice.
@TheOldMechanic
@TheOldMechanic Жыл бұрын
Sorry 😔
@mirkoneumann13
@mirkoneumann13 5 ай бұрын
Du hast Anti Size Paste genutzt am shaft, ist das egal? Bmw schreibt Klüber Fett Staburags NBU 30 Ptm vor. Tolle Arbeit 👌👍
@nielse4015
@nielse4015 Жыл бұрын
Ik zie dat je explosie tekeningen gebruikt. Kan je mij misschien vertellen van welke site je ze vandaan haalt?? Alvast bedankt. Gr. Niels
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