BMW R1150GS FINAL DRIVE PROBLEM.. SOLVED ! PART 4

This is PART 4 of how to solve the play of the FINAL DRIVE of YOUR BMW R1150GS.
Besure to watch the whole video, as a lot of hint and tips are said by me. So you DON'T MIS an important step..;-)
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MORE BMW R1150GS maintenance video's in my playlist:
• BMW R1150GS FINAL DRIV...
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Motorcycle maintenance made easy by: The Old Mechanic
Motorcycle maintenance made easy by: The Old Mechanic

[@randyburgos]

What a job. This guy is lucky he has you working on his motorcycle. Can’t wait to see the rest. Randy

[@TheOldMechanic]

👍🏻👊🏻

[@cesarmeloni7672]

I was able to see all 4 parts of the work. It is really excellent, like all the other videos. The small details always make the difference in the quality of the work. Congratulations once again, and thank you very much for sharing your expertise.

[@TheOldMechanic]

Your welcome Cesar

[@miketube7856]

Trotse eigenaar van een GS1150 uit 2002. Dit soort filmpjes zijn ontzettend handig om te kijken als ik zelf ook de cardan ga onderhouden/repareren. Bedankt voor de moeite, je hebt een abonnee erbij!

[@TheOldMechanic]

Thanks

[@eternallearner8185]

From one old mechanic to another, I really admire the quality of your videos and the quality of your practical explanations, however , I must disagree with you on one item in particular and that is the shim(s) that sit on the big bearing and provide the necessary pre-load on the bearing, you referred to these being set at the factory, problem with that is that a great many of the 1100/1150 final drives were incorrectly fitted at the factory where they were assembled and this error in pre-load is the main reason for premature life of the bearing. The BMW shop manual tells you to use a special BMW jig for this job, but the most effective, accurate and cheapest method is temporarily fit the cover over the bearing without the shims but instead small strips of soft solder or lead stuck on the bearing race edge with sticky grease, torque down the cover slowly and evenly, when done remove it again and measure the new flattened out widths of the pieces of solder, the shim must be .002" - .004" thicker than the now flattened solder pieces. I used measure rather than factory metric because the imperial measure is easier to remember. Keep up the good work!

[@daledahlman9629]

Thanks so much for your thorough video’s

[@redleadervfr-v4906]

Really great video very enjoyable and great inflammation on how to do an overhaul on a BMW shaft Drive. Just a point I was always led to believe that you had to use White Grease on the Splines!! Thank you for all that you are doing

[@TheOldMechanic]

Your welcome 👍🏻👊🏻

[@jeffreylindop5782]

very good content, one of the better videos on this subject.

[@adamzadori7977]

Thanks!!!

[@edsyphan3425]

OM, somehow I didn't catch what the original failure was at the beginning. Also, what temp were you heating the housing up to? The heat gun was louder than your voice.

[@TheOldMechanic]

Sorry 😔

[@nielse4015]

Ik zie dat je explosie tekeningen gebruikt. Kan je mij misschien vertellen van welke site je ze vandaan haalt?? Alvast bedankt. Gr. Niels

[@mirkoneumann13]

Du hast Anti Size Paste genutzt am shaft, ist das egal? Bmw schreibt Klüber Fett Staburags NBU 30 Ptm vor. Tolle Arbeit 👌👍