Final drive disassembly

[@ballchair2]

The support vice to hold the final drive is worth gold!

[@virginiamotorrad1952]

That fixture is great. It handles every final drive from the /5 to the R1200C and K1200LT, including the G/S 3-lug wheels, K-bikes, etc. The new R1200 and K1200 models introduced around 2005 use a different, and much more expensive, fixture.

[@martinnaylor2027]

@@virginiamotorrad1952 Any idea where I can buy this final drive jig to hold the final drive?

[@virginiamotorrad1952]

@@martinnaylor2027 BMW sells it. Contact me at the shop website and I'll see what I can get you one for.

[@alftorrisi8795]

Nice work. Great to see someone not reaching for a rattle gun for everything.

[@robertkelly3131]

Great video. Really helpful in learning your way around a BMW final drive. I am about to setup a spare/backup final drive I purchased for my 2 BMW r1100gs'. Great watching you easily plow through bearing removal and installation.

[@Mechman0925]

Holy mackeral this video is so valuable, thanks for sharing this.

[@haydnhunt5477]

How do you measure the backlash for the taper bearing? Just rebuilt mine new taper bearing/race, new main bearing and old shims. Wheel is slightly loose at 12-6 oclock now. I order the shims at 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm can I play around with the sizes until it's snug?

[@virginiamotorrad1952]

You don't want it snug. The backlash spec is 0.07-0.16mm free play at the teeth. You need to lock the pinion in place and measure the rotation of the ring gear. Shims are in increments of 0.05mm and most of the ones I overhaul end up in the 2.15 to 2.30 range.

[@haydnhunt5477]

@virginiamotorrad1952 Okay thanks the website I ordered them from only went down to 1.50 so I'm gunna try nd swap em around till I find something that feels good, I don't really have the tools to measure it properly/accurately. I can just hear it in there clicking slightly when I rock it at 12-6, just wanna quiet/tighten it up some

[@virginiamotorrad1952]

@@haydnhunt5477 A loose ring gear (leading to the wheel rocking) is a matter of cover preload, not backlash. The cover shim is usually somewhere in the 0.60, 0.70 range to achieve the specified 0.05~0.10mm preload, but like everything else you need to measure to get it right.

[@PorkHunt100]

I did mine, but didn't pull the drive out, just replaced the bearings. Is it worthwhile pulling the driveshaft to grease the splines? It's been sitting for weeks while I got messed up with the heads, probably coulda cleaned it too... Thanks for your help dude.

18:10 998 bearing????

[@virginiamotorrad1952]

I (and many other BMW mechanics) often refer to parts using the last three digits of the BMW part number. That bearing is part number 33 12 1 236 998.

@@virginiamotorrad1952 Thank you. I was searching the code of that bearing and I would be confused forever.. I found its code but there is only one brand which is called INA and that is it? No other manufacturer?? Do you sell used parts like bearings? For example a bearing may be ok but you change it just because you are chaging everything else anyway. So even though it is used it can still be in good condition. I may rebuild a whole 1100gs and i dont have much money.. I can use used parts. I am in Germany. I guess you made the pinion retainer remover tool yourself? What diameter tube you used? I need to make myself one also. Thank you for the videos by the way.

[@andysparks7381]

What temp did you heat in the oven?

[@gamersroost]

360* for any anerobic lock tight. and to heat the case in an oven would be about 350. If you need to do the nuts, then a torch right on the nut will heat to about 300* if the temp of the bolt shows 180 ish it will come off every time as far as I have found. I was amazed at how hear works on these machines.

[@virginiamotorrad1952]

Usually about 220ºF.

[@AnalogDude_]

Hi there, could you supply the measurement of the "castellated" nut remover. Diameter and the width of the teeth in mm. i need to make me one of those. Need to powder coat the housing, so disassembly is needed.