BMW R1150GS Fork Seals Replacement

[@pemotor541]

I had this on my "watch later" list just to enjoy it in the relaxing mood of a Saturday morning. Worth it. Thank you for the educative/entertaining videos and.., I'll miss the old Garage. Keep up the good work!

[@garage_tales]

Well, that was the last video in the old garage. Good stuff happened there, but I’m happy to move on 🙂 Hope we’ll get more out of the new shed 😁

[@allseeingotto2912]

Great video thank you

[@garage_tales]

@@allseeingotto2912 Thank you for your comment. Appreciate it! Glad you found it useful 🙂

[@johns7973]

The oil from the factory is Red, ironically mine went yesterday so I’ve ordered the parts and will change them tomorrow. I got mine in 2005 new and apart from the Clutch master cylinder going 2 years ago it’s never had anything don’t to it.

[@garage_tales]

Hey there. Great to hear you didn’t have much trouble with the bike. Hope you’ll still enjoy it for many years to come 🙂

[@Explorer273]

Or if one side actually leaks: Remove the top plastic thingy. Loosen the top nut. Push down on that side of the fork and skew the whole thing. Then loosen the air vent on top. Pull the leg out and check oil level which is not that important and requires no change. Replace the pack box. It has one spring on each side so make sure they both stay in place. Reassemble and torque to 45Nm. I did this on the left side after it started leaking at 15000km and then the right side just 500km later when that started leaking. Which means changing both is probably a good idea. Then again doing one side takes less than fifteen minutes. There is then the work shop manual which recommends total disassembly. Why it says that beats me because it's the same great design that could be fixed roadside the way I just described on older models...maybe BMW just forgot about it?

[@garage_tales]

Yes, you could do that, but it’s always best to replace them in pairs anyway. And although oil is not that important here, it is better to drain it, clean all the nasty deposits and pour some fresh stuff in there. It’s not that expensive 🙂

[@Explorer273]

@@garage_tales The oil isn't supposed to ever need changing and a leak won't cause a shortage. I just wanted to point out the easiest way and there is nothing wrong with doing it that way since it's what makes the design so clever. I did this after 15000km and when I get to 30000km I may decide to do both sides and give it some new oil as well. The best way to me is what keeps the bike on the road without being unsafe.And like I already mentioned the workshop manual recommends total disassembly which is insane.

[@garage_tales]

@@Explorer273 Fair enough. Hope you’re enjoying your bike and well done for keeping it on the road🙂

[@AnalogDude_]

The most import part, one should always use an oily rag and keep those chromed "stand röhren" always moist. My original R1100RS has some minor pitting under the triple tree. i got a R1150 front fork witch is 10 years younger. the original ball joints are expensive and you can't buy the tools to loosen these, you have to remove the upper frame under the tank and take it to the dealer. the same for the bridge between the front suspension "holms" where the telelever rests.

[@garage_tales]

Yep, it’s always best to keep the moist to prevent corrosion. Thank you for your comment! 🙂

[@AnalogDude_]

@@garage_tales seemingly there are companies that can rechrome them, but is it equal as good?

[@garage_tales]

@@AnalogDude_ Yes, there are companies that can rechrome them. It used to be around £90/stanchion but it probably went up in price lately. If it’s done right it should be almost just as good. But I’m not sure on that.

[@AnalogDude_]

@@garage_tales it's 375€ new.