What's The Deal With The Fiberglass On This Deck?!?

[@wuzgoanon9373]

The best videos are the ones that make people think about what is going on rather than just start grinding and laying up glass. Good work.

[@johnnylightning1491]

Troubleshooting is the foundation for a proper repair. If you troubleshoot correctly the repair will more than likely be a good repair. If you guess and just do what you think the problem may be you aren't doing yourself any favors. Keep the good stuff coming.

[@shawnbartley9223]

You do go on a little at times but you aways have something practical to impart and you explain it very well, your fast becoming my go to guy for tips and video's relevant to my first fibreglass project boat a sunmaid twenty.

[@daveoverton2095]

Defining the problem is what troubleshooting is about. And if the problem isn't defined properly, then it can't be solved properly. And then, down the road, the real problem will re-emerge only worse. Actually finding the problem is a huge step towards fixing it! So, actually an excellent and educational video!

[@jplanigan]

If I can enjoy Mads sanding, I can enjoy you troubleshooting. Looking forward to this project.

[@ihcubed]

It's a used boat, anything can happen. That's why we like your channel, it shows the good and bad about boats. It shows what to look for when looking at purchasing a boat. The troubleshooting on the deck condition was good. Another good video, please keep them coming Andy.

[@philsmith7398]

Listening to you problem-solve is just as informative and interesting as the practical work...it helps us to think through our own problems. Thanks a lot!

[@wildbill9480]

Andy, you've got your hands full on this project but your going about it the RIGHT way! That's why I enjoy watching you work. Thank you

[@St34mPunkPrivateer]

I found it helpful alot of DIY videos don't show the troubleshooting step, it feels nice knowing Im not the only one that scratches my head for a week or two before making a call on how to proceed with a repair. Very big boost in Moral!

[@jeffkeiper]

Troubleshooting is half of the repair process! It’s neat to see how you approach issues like this. It really defines your process. Great video!

[@karisalonen8984]

Andy, this is a promise of great content for us to watch :-)

[@firstmkb]

Yes, I love the trouble-shooting!

[@deuteronimus750]

I remember during the oil and gas crisis of the early 1970"s there were many Bertram 25 footers with for sale signs on them at marinas on them on the Texas Gulf Coast, the majority of them being wooden rather than fiberglass.

[@brycefuller8202]

Hey Andy, I'm currently in the middle of the restoration of my 1962 Bertram 25. The foredeck back then had a larger bow hatch than on yours, but the same underside construction with only bonded wood. Factory gelcoat on the topside still, and very few stress cracks most of which are smaller than a hair. All of the stringers, and wood cores on these were bonded down with polyester resin at various times, pre-and-post cure of the original structure which has resulted in many of these hulls experiencing varying degrees of delamination. If you would like any information or pictures to compare against, just let me know.

[@aswantek]

I love your videos. VERY informative. Especially the "reasoning" part!

[@luisgonzales1932]

Dude....I love your videos. Lol. I am surprised there was no glass on the bottom side of the plywood. Can’t wait to see more on this project.

[@rex8255]

Never underestimate the value of a troubleshooting video! How can you fix a problem until you know what it is?

[@petenash7994]

Andy - please fix from below. Your analysis is spot on and the solution is close. Great series and like your style.

[@mikeoconner1356]

Excellent discussion of the problem and a sound approach... .

[@patmcdermott8547]

Following your thought processes in troubleshooting is always worthwhile. Although I know the deck will be a PITA for you (and more costly) the repair will make for some great instructional video. Thanks!

[@buildingsailboats4549]

Dear Andy, this video was interesting. We can learn from your troubleshooting and thoughts about possible explanations and solutions to a problem. Greetings, Marcel

[@toms4123]

yes it was very interesting and so are the comments. count me in for the ride..

[@edrussell7960]

Always interesting. Got to show even the stuff that makes you scratch your head. That's how we learn from the experts. Looking forward to more.

[@sldsecurity2317]

Hey Andy, we have a 1966 Bertram 25 hull. Originally just like yours without a hard top. We added the hard top and a B-Bracket to the stern in order to use outboards. We have never experienced the stress cracking that you are and when we walk on the deck and side rail there is no cracking sounds at all. We only saw a stress crack in the top rail of the stern after a couple of years of use due to the extra weight and torque that the outboards were exerting, but everything else is solid even at her age. :) Your problem doesn't seem normal for a Bertram.

[@RTD1947]

Enjoying the video and your process of analyzing is very interesting and right on. Keep it up, fantastic channel!!

[@grahamstewart8636]

Doing that much glasswork overhead and in the confined area of a Vbirth sounds horrible to me if possible. When faced with a soft foredeck on my 22' sailboat I removed the foredeck, separated the liner from the core, removed the old core and replaced it with marine grade plywood. The old core was just cheap exterior plywood that, to my surprise was dry, but the layers of the plywood had delaminated from each other. Once reconstructed, I put the foredeck back on the boat and covered the entire deck with additional laminations. Still a bugger of a job but I would think that was much easier than trying to do the work from inside the boat.

[@jimjordan5630]

I know that I'm late coming into this game (sort of seeing the videos out of order), but now it all makes sense. I was wondering about so if the stress cracks and what caused them and I'd they'll re-crack or wing up "chasing cracks". No pun intended. No I see whole picture. Great vids, learning a lot and really like your style! Thanks a lot!!

[@ThePulzeGamer]

Very interesting video, love your knowledge on boat building

[@dinsdalepiranah8759]

Andy, can you comment on the extra weight to be added with the additional fiberglass, say versus adding support beams under the current deck?

[@buyamerican3191]

Hi Andy, Once again, can't say enough good about your presentations, keep up the good work! I am currently working on a 1968 ChrisCraft 23 Commander which had that same weak foredeck that you have with the Bertram. Like your project my deck is not cored but had a minuscule honeycomb support system of 3/8" plywood strips glassed in perpendicular to the deck which were old, original and de-laminating. I did not relish the idea of trying to create a core by working upside down so I opted to replace the honeycomb supports and add additional where it looked advantageous. The original plywood was tabbed into the under side of the deck and at intersecting places and that's where I have stopped for the moment. All old plywood and tabbing have been removed (what a mess that was!) All of the new supports have been installed using polyurethane construction adhesive but I know in my heart this all needs fiberglass tabbing, I'm just not sure how to proceed with gravity working against me. Is there a secret to getting cloth and resin to "levitate"?

[@UweBehrendt]

A good lesson in troubleshooting and problem solving Thanks

[@jamesgolden2379]

Video is great. I agree with the other comments. You will need to do some glass work on the bottom of the deck too. Also I have heard that the older Bertram boats used resin that was very brittle in nature. It may be easier to remove the deck from boat to rubrail and cut it at front superstructure. Then you could make mold to repair the right way and then just reinstall the fore deck section at the rub rail. I guess it comes down to cost. Jim

[@SmithMarineDesign]

I'm a boat designer with 30 years experience, I even worked at Bertram in the late 80's. You need to add the glass to the bottom of the plywood. Then you will have a cored structure that doesn't flex. I don't know how they did it originally, but I would be surprised if it has been flexing like that since the beginning, that doesn't sound very much like Bertram. It looks like part of the deck has already had the plywood removed and replaced with some beams. That could be causing the flex if it originally had plywood. The reason to add glass to the bottom is that the bottom is in tension and the top in compression. Fiberglass is much better in tension and much stronger. You will gain very little stiffness adding to the top.

[@SmithMarineDesign]

You're right, if the beams aren't attached at their ends, they'll flex like crazy. You can build an uncored deck using a single skin laminate, but you will need a lot of closely spaced frames, maybe every 6-8 inches. Even in a single skin laminate, the bottom layer of glass will be in tension as you walk on it.

[@davidbrown8365]

Spot on explanation. It's like a wood cored ski / snowboard that's missing it's bottom. Doesn't help much to just thicken the top.

[@kellystiles72]

I'm surprised you are the only one to stress how important laminating the bottom of the deck is. Martin Gauthier mentioned it as a good idea, but it is much more. With the plywood not laminated on both sides (or tabbed in on the edges), it gives almost no structural strength... the plywood that is there is only good for sound dampening.

[@B._Smith]

I think you nailed the problem and solution.

[@erikv5382]

And adding glass underneath is only a pain when the boat is upside up, why not turn it upside down?

[@okcpicker]

Good show. I'm about to begin deck replacement on a Watkins 27, so everything you show us adds to my knowledge base. Thanks!

[@crexis1]

Really useful! I have a similar problem with my narrow boat's roof. I know the underside is fine and I don't want to dig in from bellow.

[@TheDecguy]

IIt would be interesting to find a spot in the deck to check the laminate thickness. Also unless you intend to make the deck into what is essentially a solid deck instead of a cored deck it is still necessary to deal with something to act as a core and then an interior laminate. I know I'm not saying anything that you don't know but I thought it should be mentioned. Some of the old guys who built these are still alive in South Florida. It would be fun to see who remembers!

[@robstone370]

Will be excellent to see this stage being done ! Looking forward to it Andy !

[@mattjohn888]

Greetings from the Shetland islands. Been a subscriber for a while now and enjoy your work. I work in composites too, and at our work we have a long standing quarrel with our boss that maybe you can put some insight into. He's always wanting us to wet out an area to laminate with resin mixed with silica, he claims it gives a better bond but we have not seen any data sheets or anything to back this up! We just can't imagine why mixing something into the resin will bond anything better, surely it would do the opposite. It can be helpful when you need something to stick while you laminate yes, but we remain unconvinced about bonding. Sorry for being so long winded!!

[@craigneely5121]

I have a suggestion for a video topic -- I'd love to learn about your shop itself if you haven't covered it already. Questions like: How big is it? How big do you think a shop should be for working a medium size sailboat (30-40 feet)? What kind of features have you found useful to have: i.e. an office, large tools, power setup, insulation, HVAC, bay door dimensions, etc. If you had it constructed yourself -- how was that process, expense, permits, contracting the work? As someone working on an older boat I'd love to have a shop like that so learning about how to build one would be very interesting.

[@peterengel7885]

Go through some of his videos and many of your questions will be answered.

[@josephk2958]

Ugh! That sucks but for what it's worth I'm looking forward to the repair videos to come.

[@mwatkins2464]

Keep em coming Andy 👍👍 I enjoyed it even tho no work took place today. (No physical work)

[@cal40seafire98]

It sounds as though there's insufficient laminate thickness, and adding new layup on the deck surface will address that, while providing the opportunity to fair out the bulges. You could also lay up laminate on the underside of the deck to create a tension layer as noted in one of the comments. However, nobody likes to laminate upside down, as you point out. Early on in the restoration of my Cal 40, I confronted having to replace the entire outer skin of the hull (turned out it was a "Friday boat"). Rather than applying Knitex to an overhead surface, we decided to roll the boat on its side, and designed a rotating cradle (nicknamed "The Boatisserie") that allowed us to snug the hull down hard fore and aft of the keel on triangular yokes formed to the boat. The hull yokes were built with central bearings that were located slightly above the center of mass, and articulated with triangular girders bolted to a rectangular steel frame. Removable struts from the frame to the outside edge of the yokes provided horizontal rigidity while setting the boat up on the cradle. To lay the boat down, we removed the struts and used webbing straps and come alongs to pull the boat over to one side until the sheer laid against cribbing, and then we jacked up the keel to a pre-measured centerline. Once finished with one side, we reversed the process to the other. The boatyard subsequently has used the same cradle with custom yoke inserts on other boats for similar repairs. Others have approached the problem differently (kzbin.info/www/bejne/l4uvgGOnjMR1mZI). Given the relatively light weight of the Bertram, I could envision you doing something comparable using twin girder frames with chain hoists. Your shop certainly looks like there's room, and it might be a worthwhile investment for future projects.

[@imabeliever244]

Props (no pun intended) for the name "Boatisserie"! Haha

[@Sailingon]

This is interesting, I'm going to enjoy the repair. I have a Trident warrior which has lots of cracked and lose gell coat on the whole deck which I'm thinking get off as much as possible then a few lairs of glass to stabilise on the whole deck then lots of faring and sanding eek. Then two pack paint

[@rednoize4391]

would love to see how you fixed that boat

[@franklindmurphy]

Troubleshooting is excellent content Andy. Look forward to more videos on this project.

[@CorwynGC]

Troubleshooting is VERY helpful! Thanks.

[@t____g____5606]

Excellent video. Keep em coming Andy

[@surfer0302]

I have a plywood headliner (1/2") screwed to the beams. I have minimum, if none at all, flex. My daughter and her friends sit up there while cruising slowly. also have a partition separating the anchor line storage area but doubt that it is providing support.

[@daviddickmeyer5231]

Maybe that previous “restoration “ was just a lot of gelcoat slathered on and those high spots at the fillets are where it sagged and set up. The stress cracks may just be from too much gelcoat thickness. At any rate, once you start the sanding process you’ll find out!

[@GriLLeX636]

For a 4th troubleshooting idea, would you think it would be worth grinding a section of that “hump” perhaps a 4”-5” into the hump, and 4"-5" prior to, for the purpose of exposing perhaps some inferior material that was used in the previous repair. And with that, unveiling the technique/products used before.

[@garysouza2277]

Since you've now taken off the plywood from the inside, would it be possible to pattern new ply, lay 1708 on one side of it, then epoxy bog the un-laminated plywood side to the inside of the foredeck? Then the only glassing you'd have to do is to add more 1708 tape to the edges on the inside where it meets the hull and any other structural part. All this could be hidden with trim and headliner. Just a thought....

[@sea4see]

Danny in my previous boat same problem I solve with lamination of carbon fibre underneath!

[@mini696]

The humps could be local repairs from previous cracking.

[@hogroamer260]

That uneven deck around the windshield and hatch looks like someone placed a layer of fiberglass around them - suspecting to repair a ton of spider cracks such as you encountered.

[@howardday5449]

looks to me to be where the layers of extra mat or the roven was applied to re-enforce the windshield and hatches during the original layup. If the deck had the normal one inch of shiny paint around the edges and nonskid every where else that does not get seen. Over time because resins are like concrete they continue to cure and shrink, different filler consistencies,they cure and shrink to their own level, and show over time. Gelcoat tends to get brittle sooner than the underlying layers. Having similar experience putting the project boat inside those cracking noises do get louder and crisper as the boat dries out. On re-enforcing the deck from above, we strip down the gel coat down to at least 60% of the underlying glass is showing more maybe needed and will be seen while sanding down. Areas of poor resin saturation during the original lay up may appear. we generally apply one layer of 1808 cloth. On a 31 moppy, we put two layers of 18 on the bridge deck, because the Captain and the owner were giant men. another thing to look for is the inner seam between the hull and deck generally is tabbed from the inside as well as having the outside of the seam riveted or bolted hidden within the bumper rail/metal. From the factory the inside tabbing can be suspect or not complete, the bedding between the upper deck and the hull can be suspect as well. Also boat usage and bouncing too hard against the dock , there can be cracked areas hidden on this inner seam. Any cracks or weaknesses in the deck to hull seam can be a source of some of the cracking noises. we repair any areas and apply 18 oz tabbing where needed.

[@scottpettitt5173]

Mads would just cut it all off and build it up new. He would save the windshield frame and outboards and scrap the rest

[@garysouza2277]

True.....

[@planesplanes2863]

thats a fact! Hey Andy, what do you think about Mads joist issues?

[@normanboyes4983]

As much as you do not want to fight gravity - the only way to improve the rigidity/stiffness of the foredeck is to do that. Is there any way you can make some supports and put the boat on its side to assist the laminating process. The whole of the underside should be glassed over the plywood.

[@destinationunknown4655]

Loved the video, please show me how to fiberglass topside deck. Have a sailboat and the front in flexing as well wanted to make it stronger. Thank you

[@TheNicko773]

You work like me Sir.. (Your much better). Do the project correctly and get it done right no matter what time and effort it takes. Nice to see. Professional work for sure. !

[@imabeliever244]

I can't get over the width of the that beam for a mere 25 ft. boat?! I'm not familiar with Bertram so I'm just guessing that it's original intent was as a salt-water vessel...which would explain its bulk? Also, it seems odd that there is no bow rail of any kind yet there is a hatch that would suggest that the foredeck was designed to accommodate a certain amount of foot traffic on it...which also DOESN'T explain the lack of structural rigidity, or interior bracing? I'm not a boat expert, so I really enjoy your tutorial videos. I just went from a 20 ft. open bow stern drive to a 20 ft. outboard bass boat, so I'm starting over on the maintenance learning curve (just replaced my throttle control/gear shifter. Thanks for the videos! :)

[@odysy5556]

Would it not be easier to split the top deck from the hull and flip it so you can easily do the repair to the underside of the deck, that is what I did to my boat. From what I can see the windscreen would have to come off and the engines which will come off anyway down the track. P.S hope you dont mind me sharing your videos with the OLD SCHOOL BERTRAM owners group on Facebook in Australia.

[@billcashman4006]

I like troubleshooting videos , Andy. Question: would you ever seperate the upper and lower deck halves at the belt line to do major repairs? Just curious. Thanks for all the great videos!

[@z_actual]

We never saw underneath the deck, Im just musing to myself that there may have been alterations to the cabin like a bulkhead or some other structure was taken out

[@jimmiller4951]

Good video Andy. Laying up 3-4 layers of 1708 on top will be more than sufficient as the underside is still very intact and I'm sure it goes without saying that you would strengthen the underside as you checked the wood by peeling like you did. I questio as to if some " experts " understand how strong 4 layers of 1708 is ... haha. With all due respect ........ just because someone has done something for 30-40 years doesn't mean they were good at it. I have worked with more than enough people who say " I've done it for 40 years ( always an even # ) and ya know what ?.... They sucked !

[@daltonshank6221]

I don't remember what year yours is it I have a 74 Bertram 31 fbc the boat has not had any big glass work done and the front deck does not flex at all and does not have the lip/hump the only spots that flex are around the walkway around the house to get to the bow and she has a pile of spider cracks all around the boat looking to get it redone quoted 17-20k for laying up new glass and paint good luck with yours

[@ianupton4027]

I have a 20 foot Bertram and had a 25 as well. If I recall, the plywood did not have any interior glass. A deck "cored" with plywood that doesn't have glass on the inside isn't cured. It is probably worthwhile adding a layer or two of 1708 on inside.

[@n1352-m1i]

would not the PO just have attempted to fix flex/stress cracks locally by laminating the edges (covering the cracks, possibly digging them a bit but not all the way, so that feathering out would leave these humps like and band aid) ? sort of a quick fix for a quick sale...

[@davemurphy2020]

Another beam or two and some intercostals for rigidity wouldn't hurt. I think the lack of support for the ply when the boat was built is the root of the problem. Too late for this project but another chin scratcher is allway's around the corner.

[@mozismobile]

Can't you flip the boat over and work on the "underside" with the boat upside down in a cradle?

[@JS-yt5le]

I know its not a tiny rowboat but maybe you can turn it upside down to make the interior work more easy.

[@jeffwarner4225]

Often an issue with older boats and how they where repaired in the past. Most the time they are rebuild in a hurry (with less attention to quality) to turn a money hole into something sell-able, to get rid of fast. People end up painting over cracks or filling with lightweight fillers and no glass, then as soon as you step, snap pop crack.

[@brns2r]

Im not an engineer but from the looks of it, it seems that what ever glassing and topcoat that was done by the previous owner was done without any supports from the inside. so technically the weight on top of the boat is supported by the thin layers of glass and top coat rather than any support from the core or structural. does that make any sense? lol

[@walkertongdee]

the crossbeams are separated.

[@lyfandeth]

If someone can measure and confirm deck thickness of another boat, you could confirm that theory. Sounds like it would be a good explanation.

[@bobthedude9322]

Sorry, but it’s nice to see an expert confused. Welcome to my world. Could you build a reverse core? Core material on top of existing deck, then glassed... maybe eliminate or change the hatch. Have fun with it and ditch the rule book and good luck!

[@sea4see]

Always great videos!!!

[@johnearwood4093]

Troubleshooting is something we all end up doing. Always illustrative to observe a professional do it. Thanks.

[@nicholasgriffiths5207]

I have a 30 year old Australian built gardian industries boat I've owned it for over 5 years it's got a tainted history and it's just the oridginal fiber glass and wood I have removed every piece of hard wear and have been sounding it out since I bought it now I need help I'm Pritty sure it's good and could last another 30 years help

[@harleyjune1233]

just found your site - yes bc I have a project - never I have done this extensive a repair so I am asking if you have a video link on your page - transom repair - 80's skeeter bass boat that is soft and needs attention - plan is to separate the top from shell cut, patch, replace - simple right....thank you in advance - the cracking for I got $5 says it is thinned top deck, compression side, pulling edges (gunwales ) inward - the real question is now that you have heard the cracking - investigating damage and separation - because now it is no longer "solid"...

[@boatworkstoday]

Hey Harley! If you go on my main channel page and do a search for Transom Replacement you can see how I did mine last Winter. The design of your boat may be different and require a different approach but the basic outline should get you started :-) If you have any questions and would like some help with the project please have a look over my Patreon page to see if there's something there of interest! www.patreon.com/BoatworksToday

[@johnshoureas1629]

Is it true that this will be a 7 year project ?

[@SuperM1687]

Love all of your videos but at the end of the day I feel overwhelmed with all the chemicals/materials used etc. If you could summarize each project in the future would be great.

[@tamaralee4108]

If you look at the video portion with the tearing away of the under deck plywood, you can see that there is under deck structure aft of the hatch, but that it stops at the hatch and is not continued forward. This means that the entire deck forward of the hatch has no support other than the hull at the gunnels. It's possible that the renovations included installing a wider hatch, and the original longitudinals were cut away to fit it. In any case it would be simple to install temporary longitudinals just outboard of the hatch on either side, starting from the existing structure and running forward up to the forward bulkhead, ( that's visible in the video). Then check to see if the deflection is improved. The existing plywood looked to be pretty rugged, and it's not clear that glassing the underside would actually increase stiffness enough to correct the problem. I think a pair of longitudinals tied into the existing ones, and running forward along the outboard sides of the hatch up to the bulkhead, along with the new glass above the deck, would fix the problem. Easy to test out with temporary stringers. I would try one 2 X 4 on either side of the hatch. Greg

[@Quartz331]

i like your work man 👍🏼👍🏼⚓️✌️ watching you from kuwait 😁

[@rogeryoung7405]

Nice video. I'd like to see how you repair the plywood underneath the deck as well. Did you remove all of it or just enough to evaluate it?

[@boatworkstoday]

For now just enough to evaluate. There's a good chance that I will end up taking it down though :-)

[@danmallery9142]

As heavy as I am, if I walked on that deck, it would now be a bowrider...

[@harveyg845]

How well will the new glass bond to the old glass when the old glass is that thin and flexible i.e. are you concerned about warping due to curing heat? Will the bond hold over time?

[@boatworkstoday]

As long as all the prep work is done correctly there shouldn't be any issues with bonding ;-)

[@jimmyjrgensen2670]

@@boatworkstoday Hi Bertram All the best from Denmark I have Never had a boat like the one you have but years ago a friend of mine bought a boat that sounded a bit like your deck when we stepped on it and cracked as well, after doing my research as you did (I'm a retired Instrument Engineer with an history as a shipswrigth) tapping and listening and research underneath where I found out it were an old wooden deck with new glasfiber deck added that had loosened we found out that the glasfiber deck had gone loose from the wood and the thickness of the glasfiber were to thin, what we did were tipping the boat on the side opening multiple 2" holes through through the wooden deck from below in a pattern like a chessboard squares of 10 inches and found out we could pour resin in between the glasfiber and the wood 'thinned by pressing the glasfiber from the wood with wood 5mm bricks and sprayed the resin in an when we had done 3 rows we let the bricks go an the decks came together resin were coming out of Al the holes and we plugged all holes with wood plugs an waited for the resin to harden, the next day we did the other side and after we sanded the deck down and redid the finish. This we did app. 25 years ago and it still is stiff and of course it is we're done with glued inner lining afterwards. Hope to see the followup on your project I love your approach I do remember that we did the job for a friend and crossed our finger that it was the right way you are doing this as a job and are the rules are different.

[@ConfusedSoul24]

Not sure about your assessment. My guess is they had lots of cracks all around the base of the windshield, the hatch etc. (wherever the flat surface met the bits at an angle thus creating stresspoints). Thus when "restoring" they added a layer or two of glass there to stop the cracks from reappearing (with limited results). I agree with the naval architect below, that adding more laminate on top won't help. Your problem is not strength but stiffness. I know this may sound extreme, but have you considered flipping the whole boat upside down, adding all the coring or other reinforcement you may need plus a few layers of glass inside and then turning it back. I know it sounds crazy, but actually it's a huge time saver, because it enables you to work upright when standing in the hatchopening and with gravity to your advantage. All you need is to drain all the fluids, remove any loose items, hoist with a twin gantry crane and roll it over a loop on pulleys. I've rolled several boats during the build and it's really not a big deal once you've done it a few times.

[@BobMuk08]

I think this video was a great exercise in 'turning a sow's ear into a silk purse'.... you made something interesting out of almost nothing. I notice you still use the cute 'Miss Boatworks Today' voice over ending. however, surely she has grown somewhat now...? do you plan to replace 'Miss Cuteness' with a more 'mature' version that reflects the progress your channel has made? Also Happy Christmas!

[@gregm2074]

Turn the boat upside down!

[@markbozz153]

Bertram used a lot of goddam 5200, always a nightmare.

[@johncollins5021]

Trouble shooting half the work.

[@finnsailing69]

insert comment here:

[@hookednrolling2009]

Andy since when you walk on top shouldn't you attack from underneath with 3/4 in core stuff for strength ( sorry your not fat like me if I walked up there there would be no walk signs for me ) if you go under nevermind you don't want all the mess underneath got it topside easier to work on JT Just forget this message thanks it doesn't help any

[@SailingVoyager]

More work, less talk maybe?