Bose SoundDock 2 Power Adapter Repair and Diagnostics

I don't do these any more so you can have a go at saving the Bose...

[@alejandrowyss4783]

Just to thank you: I followed the exact steps in your video and my power supply is back to life! Without it, I'd be clueless about what to change and how to change. Count me in your stats that "4 out of 5 times, this IC is fried" 😉

[@razenby]

Nice work! Thanks for watching.

[@jr57540]

Just curious if the following sounds readly repairable? The remote control for my bose sounddock 2 controls volume but the track advance function no longer works. Have tried using different remotes and ipods so must be in sounddock itself. Love these little devices for their operating simplicity and sound-for-size but often find something "blows" if on during power cut though eventually seems to repair itself.

[@razenby]

Remote is working. Clean your docking connector. The remote comms to the docked device link uses only one pin on the dock. please like and subscribe

[@dreamwalker4060]

Dream Walker 1 week ago @Magic Smoke Thanks for your response. Please excuse my ignorance as I am not a tech savvy person in electronics. It's purely out of desperation and lack of part availability that is forcing me to try to repair this part. If the Snubber diode, bootstrap supply diode and the reservoir capacitor are the same ones you check in your video... then yes, I checked them and they are okay. How can I identify the low value current sense resistor? Is it R1 on the circuit board? Also, what kind of resistance should I be seeing when measured across its terminals?

[@razenby]

You probably have the blown TOP chip. Change that. 80% of the time it the cause of the problem.

[@razenby]

It is usually a 1 to 2 W wire-wound of around 0.1 to 0.3 ohm in series with the Source of the switching FET and AC0V. When the FET suffers catastrophic failure the resistor often is blown open too. Good luck.

[@Aksel55]

Thanks for the video . i have the same power supply in white and it is making hissing noise , i've checked the output caps all look good, i was wondering if know what's causing that . thank you in advance .

[@razenby]

They often make a hissing noise when not under load. It usually stops when you connect it to the dock and in general it does not affect operation. . Early version of the 208 were plagued by instability issues in the switching circuit. What you can hear is the modulated ultrasonic instability What about the output voltages - are there any?

[@Aksel55]

@@razenby Thank you for your reply. yeah the hissing does effect the speaker it gets amplified . the output voltage is +17.3 volt and - 18.7 volt ,i did change the output caps but no resuts stil the same. all the caps measured fine. the model :PSM36W-208 thanks again for the informations

[@GymBodyMuscles]

Nice video. I suppose the output 18V cable is a 3 core (+, - & ground) type. I am trying to do a DIY project to connect Dewalt XR 18V 2AH lion battery pack to the speaker so that it becomes portable. Problem is that the battery adapter mount/holder has only 2 core wires (+ & -) so I am wondering how to wire a new 3 core male pin to the 2 core wire of the battery adapter?

[@razenby]

Supply is +18V 0V and -18V. It is called a dual rail supply. Email my support team at [e-mail] and they will send you the pin-out diagram for the power adaptor.

[@GymBodyMuscles]

@@razenby I had sent couple of email earlier but never got any reply. I will send the email again. Thank you for the reply here.

[@GymBodyMuscles]

My bose sound dock 2 get stuck in green light upon powered on and wont play music till 20 mins have passed. It plays alright after 20 mins of on/off power supply. What could be the issue?

[@micaifrancisco3056]

Do you have the data of the power supply of Bose t1 tonetouch.. using utp plug?

[@razenby]

No sorry

[@dreamwalker4060]

Hi... Thumbs up on the video. I have a power adapter with the same problem. I found the IC TOP 245YN had blown off. A chunk of the IC had broken loose. I did the checks like you did in the video and found ZD3 showing 543 mV one way and 422mV the other way. I assuming it is short. Is there anything else that could be blown off? All the other checks that you did were fine on my adapter. Does this mean the TOP245YN and the diode are the only 2 replacements needed? What would be the specs of the diode if I have to buy one?

[@razenby]

Check the snubber diode and check the low value current sense resistor hasn't blown open, also worth checking the boostrap supply diode and reservoir capacitor.

[@dreamwalker4060]

@@razenby Thanks for your response. Please excuse my ignorance as I am not a tech savvy person in electronics. It's purely out of desperation and lack of part availability that is forcing me to try to repair this part. If the Snubber diode, bootstrap supply diode and the reservoir capacitor are the same ones you check in your video... then yes, I checked them and they are okay. How can I identify the low value current sense resistor? Is it R1 on the circuit board? Also, what kind of resistance should I be seeing when measured across its terminals?

[@LTM5554]

Hello, I have the same problem that ZD3 shorted. It has the band colours red black green so what voltage is it pls? I think it is 5.1v but not sure. Thanks a lot

[@dreamwalker4060]

@@LTM5554 I am stuck with trying to identify the low value current sense resistor. Magic Smoke would be able to answer your question. Hope he answers mine too

[@LTM5554]

@@dreamwalker4060 Thx for answer. After checking Top245yn datasheet, I think it could be 5v to connect to C pin (feedback).

[@nicolashussey9234]

Do you know what type of Diode is zenner diode 3. Mine is blown . Also i will need the value of the R7 near by is also blown. Regards in advance

[@razenby]

Sorry I cant remember the circuit off the top of my head. Have a look at the TOP xxxxx chip datasheet. The schematic of what you have will be on the application circuit. From memory there is only 1 diode in the primary circuit a fast high voltage, fast recovery snubber (600V PIV ~30nS) . The likely location of a Zener is on the secondary side for voltage feedback near the opto coupler. Where is R7 in the circuit?

[@nicolashussey9234]

Do you know the values for R7 & ZD3? Mine are blown in the pcb

[@razenby]

Refer to the datasheet for the TNY chip. There isnt a Zener on the primary side that I can remember.

[@drabara]

You used a thumb detector ?

[@razenby]

Yes, Active thumb tracking and location!

[@jimmacdonald9746]

🇬🇧✊🏻

[@razenby]

Cheers Jim

[@razenby]

@Jayce Eliseo What did you expect?

[@yokok8528]

Sir. I have bose series 2, they have a problem when put the adaptor bose18v to speaker there no sound beep then stay green light and no cant not play? What is the problem?

[@razenby]

Sound processor failure. See invebo.com website Technical Guide section for diagnostic video.

[@yokok8528]

@@razenby thanks to reply😊me t

[@razenby]

@@yokok8528 You are welcome

[@MegaYekyawthu]

I have similar problem with my series 2. After I connect the power cable, it doesn't beep as usual and green remain 'on' for like an hour until I unplug and plug it in. Then it beeps and the light go off and the speaker functions as usual. It always take like an hour. What might be the problem?

[@razenby]

@@MegaYekyawthu Check you have about 35 volts between the inner and outer cylinder of the annular power plug. The tiny gold wire in the middle is the 0V wire giving +18/0/-18V dual rail power supply. However it very is likely that your green light stuck on is caused by your sound processor in the dock needs updating and a service see: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHemgHaMi75shK8

[@A6D6E6]

She's breaking up Jim - right on my thumb .............

[@razenby]

Black mark on my thumb was caused by a WW2 Jeep gearbox...