Never using a table saw for this again... Shaker style cabinet doors with a router.

[@scpatl4now]

I love this video if for nothing else that Fraction Calculator...where has that been all of my life...lol! I discovered those 2 router bits when I redid all the kitchen cabinet doors in my kitchen. You get way more accurate results way quicker...and half of my doors had glass inserts so you had to be exactly on the money with that. The wood panels I used this huge router bit (looked kinda like a big mushroom) all along the edges that left a 1/4" edge that would slide into the grove. Looked really good painted. Just leave alittle space for expansion.

[@ravenheart1439]

I been watching guys doin it on table saw and find myself telling the T.V to use a router table...much faster and easier in my mind, and you gotta love all the safety Sam's telling ya what you do wrong, find myself telling the comments to shut up lol ..I get tired of them people, mind your own and shut up....

[@anthonycddb]

Every time I’ve done this on a router table , got way to much tear out, Table saw corrects this , just sayin from my personal experiences

[@astrojourneyuk]

A great video, but I'm glad in the UK we can't decide whether to go imperial or metric on things, but for measurements it's metric all the way for me. :)

[@branchandfoundry560]

Thank you for this helpful video. It's my tutorial reference in the shop today as it's been 20yrs since I last made cabinet door frames. You also deserve MAJOR KUDOS for perfect editing sound adjustment during router cuts! I saw it coming and turned my volume way down, only to be pleasantly surprised you already handled it. Bravo, sir!

[@PatrickEArchuleta-fs8bv]

Never had a problem with a miter saw young man .I have always used a router table.

[@branchandfoundry560]

@@PatrickEArchuleta-fs8bv Huh? I guess I missed something🤷‍♂

[@mypolitical]

I’ve made lots of Shaker style cabinet doors on my router table. I bought Rockler’s rail coping sled and it was a game changer that made the process faster, more accurate with less blowout.

[@BradyHommel]

Thanks for sharing. I will have to check it out

[@b1j]

I just finished my Shaker doors plus four Shaker drawer fronts. I bought the same Freud bit set and was glad I did. Good call! Now, I would never run the frame parts through a router bit by hand. For that I splurged and chose the Rockler coping jig. It keeps the parts - particularly the rails - fixed in all three dimensions, critical for exacting work like this. Lastly, while your video is very helpful in showing the sequence of steps, I think you glossed over the importance of precise millwork up front with the frame parts. They must be square, flat, and equal thickness. I suppose that goes without saying, though.

[@ryanm2214]

I really need to remember the sacrificial board at router table! Always dealing with tear out. Thanks for the tips bud!

[@kenwanless4533]

A couple of safety tips. You shouldn’t use the sled and fence together. Put a block against the fence back of the blade for a stop. That way, when you are cutting, you won’t bind the wood and chance a kickback. You also are feeding really small stock through the router without a push block. You’re going to lose a finger sometime.

[@davenielsen696]

I wish I had watched this video before building cabinet/cupboard doors for our kitchen. While It came out pretty nice, i used the 45 degree-corners-with-dowels,-lots,-and-I-do-mean-lots-of-clamps method and inlayed 1/4" birch ply. It came out pretty nice and MUCH better than the 40 year old ply wood doors that I replaced (22 of them) , but it was a LOT of work, and even more frustration before I was done. In my defense I was learning as I went. Self taught ya know. Great video!!!

[@sethhamilton5824]

I cut the tenons with the bit from that set. I didn’t like the dado cutter on hard maple (lots of chopping). I use a Freud 1/4 box cutter dado stack and it makes perfect slots, always, in anything. I leave tenon cutter in one of my router tables. I made setup blocks which make calibration very simple for both the saw and the router table.

[@jeffhinson5603]

great video, and the suggestion for the fraction calculator saved the day. Ive followed your instructions to the letter, with great success.....THANKS !!

[@BradyHommel]

That is great to hear! Glad it was helpful to you

[@jbylin]

I appreciated how you approached the router bit setup. Very practical and straightforward. I also liked seeing the fraction calculator. I use metric for all my science and engineering, but think in inches when in the shop.

[@en3gecko]

You are a very good instructor. Thanks for that.

[@BradyHommel]

Appreciate the comment. Thank you!

[@stevemaldony2417]

Great video. Thank you for posting. Helped immensely when making doors for the hutch I am restoring.

[@BradyHommel]

Glad to hear that Steve. Thanks for the comment.

[@richardlug6139]

I elected to go with a set of bits that gives a beaded profile around the inside of the door when I built my bath room vanities a couple years ago, but I do agree the router is a better method especially if you have router lift. Which I bought after I was done LOL.

[@ThomasShort-w7e]

thanks - this feels so much safer for newbees like me

[@Jmooney503]

Great work, the cabinet came out awesome! I immediately downloaded that fraction calculator app after seeing this video.

[@BradyHommel]

Thank you!

[@scpatl4now]

They should sponsor him (hint hint)...I downloaded it too!

[@hawkeye_544]

Downloaded it as well- like how they set up the numerator and denominators to quickly express a fraction. Such a time-saver.

[@Epic501]

If only there was a system where you could do basic math without converting fractions conatantly

[@markduykers6603]

Great video - thanks for sharing. I need to make quite a few shaker doors for our bathroom. I do agree with comments about safety: NEVER get your digits that close to a saw blade or router bit that’s spinning! On the rails, OK, but you had fingers less than 1” away from bit on stiles - use push blocks!

[@jmoe6402]

Very good video!👍🏽 I usually check the doors for square as well.

[@GergC0521]

Great video! Just a thought. The floating panel in the doors is supposed to be just that, "floating" to take into account swelling and shrinkage due to humidity level changes. The panels should be slightly smaller than the groves they slide into. Also, putting the panel in while the glue on the frame is still wet could also keep it from floating. Perhaps let one side dry before putting in the panel and then glue the other side?

[@branchandfoundry560]

Don't get too hung up on wood movement. It's minimal with such narrow stock. I've used silicone to fix glass panels into kitchen cabinet door frames and they're doing fine 20 years on now.

[@paulallen5267]

Nice work Brady. First I have seen making cabinets without plywood. Very nice!

[@BradyHommel]

Thanks a lot Paul!

[@GK-qz3cm]

Great video! How do you measure to determine the total width of your door? From outside to outside of the cabinet? Thanks.

[@billbachman6940]

Good design but I don’t like the 7/16 tongue. I switched over to 3/4 for the tongue and the extra space really does make a better joint and seems to flatten the styles better when joining using poplar

[@mikecooper8988]

That’s a really good video

[@mikecooper8988]

Same, especially w a to-go table saw

[@marcusjames3035]

Dry good video with the details. Thanks man

[@BradyHommel]

Appreciate it. Thanks for the comment Marcus

[@gwstubbs7046]

Good job on the doors.

[@johnandrebeccamalcolm3895]

Freud is a German name/word. The letters "eu" are pronounced "oi" as in "oil". Therefore, "Freud" is pronounced as "Froid". Hope that helps you. Like your vids, keep it up!

[@BradyHommel]

Great to know! Thanks a lot for clearing that up. I appreciate that and glad you like the videos

[@gl9412]

Thanks dude, cool. Just imagine how much time you'd save and frustration avoided if you came over to the bright side and changed to metric?

[@BradyHommel]

😂

[@QCM-TobySong]

It is a very old style way to make wooden door. We have use such joint way for more than two thousand years.

[@whomadethatsaltysoup]

Great tutorial! Thank you for taking the time to share. I'm over the pond, in Scotland, and we don't use the imperial measuring system so much, but I loved the fraction calculator - great tool for the odd occasions that I do. Just one question: How stable will doors made from pine be? Particularly if you need to rip it down to a specific width. And, if they are to be used in a kitchen environment.

[@branchandfoundry560]

Pine door frames will be fine. I made pine kitchen cabinet door frames in '04 that still look good. I also own a home built in 1971 that has site-built pine cabinet doors that are in great shape. Selecting quater-sawn wood will make them more stable, but it's not critical. At ~19x50mm frame material dimensions, there is minimal movement with such narrow pieces. Go for it! EDIT: If using solid wood panels, they'll move some, but not too much. A dab of glue or sealant in the center of the rails will split the movement difference to half on each side, which will help. Pre-finishing the panel will also help hide movement since there will be no exposed unfinished line if/when it shrinks.

[@taylormoore4991]

Great video! God bless! Stay safe!

[@BradyHommel]

Thanks!

[@jimmcnett]

Great idea. Thanks for sharing.

[@Tiki_2211]

Hell, i know how to do measuring fractions quickly, but what is that app. Makes life easier.

[@distortedodin]

Just stopped the video... downloaded the fraction app...making this comment and will resume video!!! Thanks!

[@rayhall6374]

Curious what router and what RPM you use. I have a Porter Cable single speed, and am wondering if I need to buy a variable speed router to use those large bits. Thanks! Great video!

[@b1j]

I use the now-discontinued PC 7519 production router, 3-1/4 HP and five speeds. It’s a workhorse.

[@jimfeaster4837]

Good video😊

[@BradyHommel]

Appreciate that. Thank you!

[@Vutsman1]

How did you determine width compensating for the overlay of hinges? And how much overlay should you have top and bottom?

[@BradyHommel]

The hinges will determine the overlay of the doors on the hinge side. Usually the hinges i use are 1.25" top to bottom you can customize to what ever fits your project. I usually just match the 1.25" all around the door.

[@GK-qz3cm]

If I want my doors on a faceless frame, to have a 1/4" overlay, do I just add 1/2" to the width and height and everything else is the same process? Thanks.

[@davidboston4574]

Great video!

[@BradyHommel]

Thank you!

[@MontyCraft-d7j]

very helpful thanks alot you do a good job

[@jetme8815]

Well done Brother. Keep the peddle down.

[@BradyHommel]

Appreciate it man!

[@houseoffire72]

Been watching alot of your videos. I better subscribe already😂

[@nwrasch]

Fantastic video! Thank you for sharing this. :)

[@BradyHommel]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for your comment!

[@georgeshaw6207]

Superb video !!! George U.K.

[@BradyHommel]

Thank You George!

[@amazoneric1]

Do you NEED a router table to use these bits? Or can you still get good results with a 2.25hp handheld router?

[@BradyHommel]

I'm sure it's possible handheld. But I wouldn't do it.

[@Heineken023]

Did you resaw the pine using a bandsaw? Love the vids by the way. I want to try those doors myself soon

[@BradyHommel]

Yes I used my bandsaw. Glad to hear that! You should definetly try them out. There not bad once you get used to them. Thanks for your comment!

[@rexseven6907]

I noticed a couple of your commenters below are more worried about units than digits. I thought for sure the first thing I would see here was that you shouldn't use the entire fence for your stop to batch out parts. Clamp a board to the fence before the blade. I have a mag switch that I use. Quicker and easier. Avoids the possibility of kickback. I know it's less of a safety concern with the sled, but if nothing else, it keeps you from ruining a board that gets cocked in there.

[@ezrabrooks12]

Good Video, Info.

[@rexseven6907]

I have the same table saw and am thinking of putting that Bosch router table in it also. I didn't like Kobalt one I initially put in. Any issues, or was it easy? Kobalt fit fine. I just needed to make some brackets for the bottom.

[@sivucit]

Hi, what is the app that you are using at 5:44 that shows fraction .. like 1 1/2- 3 1/2 = 6 9/16. man doiong this in mymind is challenging. pls.

[@MrHighflyingclive]

I actually roared with laughter when you showed a fraction calculator on your phone! I'm in the UK, where, like the rest of the world, we use the metric system. We do those little calculations in our heads, without even having to think hard 🙂

[@rexseven6907]

That's amazing! I've never heard that before.

[@dropndeal]

Some of us can calculate both metric and fractional in our heads. I roared with laughter knowing the rest of the world struggles with math.

[@jimmcinerney4866]

You are going to lose some fingertips, the pieces are too short, they will kick a d drag your fingers into the cutter

[@pedromartinez7915]

CALCULO MIS FRACIONES EN PAPEL Y LAPIZ AHORA NO TENDRE QUE ROMPERME LA CABEZA BRANDY TE AGRADESCO POR COMPARTIR TU TALENTO DE CAROLONA DE NORTE PEDRO

[@ravenheart1439]

Yeah I've never done it on a table saw, I knew folks did but I figured everyone knew a router was a better option...guess I was wrong lol...

[@bigdproductions9727]

I have 2 router tables because I use this technique

[@BradyHommel]

Great idea! Eventually when I have the space I woild too. Especially if doing a lot of shaker doors

[@tomsardo6984]

Good Afternoon Good luck with the channel.

[@BradyHommel]

Thanks!

[@dwolfenstein953]

Which Bosch router table is this

[@KurtBelyeu]

how did you make the sliding table saw plywood contraption?

[@bartholomewgreatpants3425]

It's called a crosscut sled and there's approximately 3.2 billion how to videos on KZbin. Enjoy.

[@KurtBelyeu]

@@bartholomewgreatpants3425 when you know you know.. ;)

[@BradyHommel]

I just recently published a video on how to make a simple one.

[@frankramirez6461]

Great video Amigo, but you are disregarding the most important thing,SAFETY 😮 that bit will snap your fingers in a split of a second ..

[@sailingfromscratch]

What brand are the clamps that you use?

[@wcisean]

If you have hundreds to make molder or shapers with feed!

[@ABCBom4thgen]

I want to know if it's dumb to attempt to accomplish this by repurposing tongue and groove floor planks, and just sand the panel down to fit or order a thinner pannel

[@richardlug6139]

No if the wood is good and you want took take the time I do not think it would be dumb especially if it is a hard wood. I would try to make the tenons on the rails first to see if they can be milled since that old wood might be very dry and hard and with a router you might have a lot of tear out. If you have a table saw I would make the tenons on that.

[@robertstewart5685]

Oh boy there’s a lot easier way to make styles and rails fit

[@testingperson8413]

Nice.

[@dgperforms1]

Braver Man than me....no push sticks??? I personally kinda like my fingers

[@ShaneOsborne]

I'd do rails first. The tongues can run wild cause you can always cut them down.

[@BradyHommel]

Real good tip!

[@IsaacNickell-lq7os]

What brand if table saw are you using?

[@BradyHommel]

It is a Delta, I got it from Lowes

[@haroldmack1704]

FYI, the way you pronounce it, is Freud

[@IamSpectre2020]

What is that calculator?

[@IamSpectre2020]

Got it.

[@BradyHommel]

Glad you found it! I have just added it to the description for others.

[@duanezuverink6129]

I like using the router, but when using 1/4" plywood for the interior there is no way to adjust the router bit for the thickness of the plywood, and the plywood is a sloppy fit.

[@BradyHommel]

The router set I have has very extremely thin spaced so you can dial it in accurately. Very minimal slop

[@b1j]

The “quarter inch” plywood I used for panels fit directly into the groove cut by the Freud set in factory-supplied setup. But he’s right: it comes with shims to dial in a wide range of panel thicknesses.

[@KurtBelyeu]

Look for an adjustable tongue and groove bit set.. they use little spacers to adjust the bit width.

[@jimfeaster4837]

Want an improvement get sled and incra lift

[@BradyHommel]

I will check them out. Thanks for sharing that!

[@perucabana]

Please let me know where I can get your clamps. Thanks

[@BradyHommel]

Harbor Freight.

[@handymadness]

If you're using a hard wood for the rails and stiles (like hard maple), these bits will tear out the wood as they're cutting the long groove on the stiles. It's incredibly frustrating to have to caulk all the doors before you pain them, and if you're not planning on painting then what? Ugly doors. The only way around this is to cut them with a table saw and/or dado.

[@BradyHommel]

If I'm painting I would use poplar personally. Much less chance of tear out. Not painting and using a harder wood. Yes table saw would be better for eliminating tear out.

[@handymadness]

@@BradyHommel Poplar in high use areas isn't very durable I've found, and maple works better. Poplar for low use items works great. Just thought I'd throw this out there for people watching because I had to learn the hard way.

[@b1j]

I user hard white maple for my doors and drawer fronts. To avoid tear out, I just started with rails a half-inch wider than final size. Sure enough, tear out, in both directions! No problem, though: I finish-ripped them to width on the table saw with a squeaky clean rip blade.

[@handymadness]

@@b1j If you do that then you have to account for how much your going to rip off with the table saw and buy a cutter that is that much longer right? They don't sell cutters that are that much longer than come in a set as far as I know. The only way I've seen to avoid tear out in maple is to do them on the table saw which is time consuming and annoying.

[@Ateesh6782]

Your first attempt at pronouncing the name was just about perfect, but you probably know this. - As an absolute beginner, is it a good idea to start with a router and a track saw rather than a table saw?

[@BradyHommel]

Hmmm I personally would go for a tablesaw first. Then add other tools after that. But a tablesaw would be to first thing I would personally purchase b

[@Ateesh6782]

@@BradyHommel Thank you, I appreciate your input.

[@blakecollie8770]

Yes!!! I did door on a table saw and it was a pain !!!! It's never 💯 accurate I always did them on a router table and just want to try on a table saw and it was pain I'd never recommend doing it like that

[@maxbee4460]

This is why it’s so much easier to work in metric.

[@BradyHommel]

Haha true!

[@thomasp.8366]

Why not use metric

[@BradyHommel]

Because I'm American and that would just make to much sense. Lol

[@steenfraosterbro3268]

My god fractions are stupid 😄 Best regard, rest of the world.

[@troybush5899]

Please USE PUSH BLOCKS and mount a "LIMIT GUARD/SHROUD" over the bit!!! One slip, and your FINGERS are GROUND BEEF!!!

[@BradyHommel]

Great tip and worth mentioning. Thank you!

[@dr.pierre-henryocallaghan7206]

Great job! But switch to metric mate! 😂

[@BradyHommel]

Haha. I should just use it and get used to it. it would save so much time in the long run

[@bobsmall8734]

If you keep making rails and stiles on a router without using a sled or hold downs, feather boards and a push block it won’t be long before you route a finger. Very unsafe technique.

[@G.I.JeffsWorkbench]

Completely agree. Accidents as more likely to happen when you’re batching out parts, or any repetitive task. An inexpensive featherboard and a push stick will save irreplaceable fingers.

[@ByGraceThroughFaith777]

I felt it in my nuts with every pass on that router table 🫣

[@psfanboy79]

I appreciate people like yourselves that take the time to comment important things like this about safety and things. As someone not knowledgeable and just dipping his toes into this hobby it’s hard to know who is giving good advice that make these videos. I always pour thru the comments to look for people who seem to know what they are talking about and can in detail, call out what’s wrong. So again, thank you.

[@rossb2167]

Have you tried metric 😂

[@BradyHommel]

Lol. Would probably make things a little easier. Damn imperial system.

[@anthonypayne1782]

You know what works better than a fractional calculator? Metric. 😂

[@BradyHommel]

😂😂 your 100% right!

[@charlesslack8090]

Real craftsman don't need no stinken calculators! 😊😊😊😊😊 Metric only works easier on the brain cause some people are not capable of mental math. 😮 Don't worry about that too much, just keep doing what works for you. 😊😊😊😊😊😊

[@marota123]

why not just use millimeters, no apps needed

[@BradyHommel]

Cause I'm from America and we do things the hard way. Lol

[@Skipperau]

Meanwhile the rest of the world uses metric and never have to deal with fractions.

[@BradyHommel]

The rest of the world makes sense 😂

[@Skipperau]

@@BradyHommel😂

[@NateBFlooring]

I love installing metric flooring products, 50s and 100s is my kind of counting😂

[@dennisnolan2544]

The idea of the video was not metric versus fractions. Try focusing on the content and learn how to add fractions!

[@marcelo403polo2]

In metric country called Canada, we also use imperial for woodworking. I would never switch to metric. Imperial is sooooo much easier and faster