Brembo RCS 19 Brake Master Cylinder On My XSR900 | Unboxing, Install, and Test Riding

[@UsmanKhanSimRacing]

Thanks for the video, exactly what I was looking for. On a side note I’m always nervous of a screwdriver in the pocket while riding, knowing my luck it won’t go anywhere other than into me if I come off the bike!

[@joshuamurray86]

Only because it hasn't been said: you can buy Brembo mirror adapters that go to the handlebar clamp.

[@233kosta]

All the 18/20 setting does is shift the contact point of the piston closer to or further from the fulcrum. At 18 you should get more mechanical advantage, and at 20 you should be able to achieve some more precision.

[@antdx316]

All you gotta do to bleed the brakes is loosen the top bleed valve a bit (not all the way) with a small piece of paper towel on top then squeeze the lever a bit then tighten it. Do that a couple times or even just once and it's done. You can even refill the brake fluid a bit too. : ) Also, adjusting the lever position with the big screw can make it brake harder, on mine when it's closer to the bar than far away.

[@michaelglenn2468]

Think ill try sintered pads first.

[@maya00795]

Awesome buddy. ....... Greetings from india 🙌🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻🙏🏻🤠🤠

[@TheSh1nzzz]

Nice video sir

[@lordgibbness]

I went with the Corsa Corta and preferred the 20mm black offset with the R lever position overall...

[@antdx316]

If you haven't removed your PAIR valves.. that's another big upgrade, in engine braking at least on the '05 R6 it is.

[@Sk00bs87]

Great video gonna do this mod!

[@Street765R]

Brembo's brake light switch is useless or? I would like to buy 17 or 19 RCS for Street Triple 765R M4.32, but not sure if it'll fit 100%. Also Brembo's mirror adapter could work for stock mirrors?

[@c.g.c2067]

I would switch to Brembo SR brake pads if you go on track aswell

[@dougiequick1]

I was under the imptession the stock masters on latest gen xsr900 are radial and taken right from the R1.....no? If so I would not imagine it being a weak link needing replaced to upgrade the front brakes? I would more suspect the rubber non braided lines and the smallish (compared to many others) rotors that are less than 300mm as opposed to so many other bikes with 310 and 320mm rotors....I would have thought one would need to replace everything to really realize a big improvement? That is what I was looking for here on youtube when I found this video

[@DemetriosMallous90]

Check other vid, I have shorter lines installed along with ABS removal. Also have sintered hh pads. Braking is not an issue at the track where I frequent. Rotor size is right where it needs to be.

[@JC-er7je]

could you have just bought a banjo switch to solve both problems?

[@TheGreatestBeyonder]

Hi bud... I appreciate this is a 2 year old vid (and you may well have moved on from this bike) but if you, or anyone could answer this question it would be helpful. Why did you choose the RCS19 over the RCS17? TIA

[@lordgibbness]

It's to do with piston size. 30mm caliper piston matches the rc17. So M50 or stylema, generally...

[@fikreekamil601]

Hi, do we need to bleed the fluid once installed to remove any of the air that got in during installation?

[@DemetriosMallous90]

You need to bleed the system anytime you make changes.

[@fikreekamil601]

@@DemetriosMallous90 all the way to the caliper ya?

[@DemetriosMallous90]

@@fikreekamil601 I bleed at the calipers and the master and switch between them all until no air bubbles are visible and lever pressure feels good.

[@fikreekamil601]

@@DemetriosMallous90 thank you. 👍

[@throttlehappyyy6788]

I would do a reverse bleed with a bleeder syringe first. You replaced the master cylinder so all the air is up in the master and some small ones trapped in the banjo bolt. You don't want to be forcing air bubbles from up in the master to go down to the calliper as you will be wasting a ton of fluid to get all the air out. Air floats up so it is a lot easier to push in brake fluid from the caliper using a syring to force all the air up and out through your reservoir. Then bleed your master. Then if you would like to you can go ahead and bleed each caliper the traditional way. This is not necessary tho as air floats up and you only introduced air up top at the master.

[@damytzeus]

seems like rcs 19 would be too much for this bike. i'd suspect that it lacks feel. it probably feels like a light switch -on or off. i bet you'd prefer rcs 17

[@DemetriosMallous90]

If you like more of a pull in your lever than yes, but personally I love just having to barely pull the lever with one or two fingers while I’m on the track. I also have mine set to the more “aggressive” mode. When in the other mode there is more pull/feel. I have no good reason to do anything more to this bike braking wise, she stops on a dime and can easily lock the front tire at 100mph+ (I’ve done it, not by choice).

[@damytzeus]

​@@DemetriosMallous90 "can easily lock the front tire at 100mph+ (I’ve done it, not by choice)" that's exactly my point. i prefer having the control and choice to lock the front tire vs locking them unintentionally. i actually ran the rcs 19 on a ktm super duke and, at first, i liked being able to stop with one finger and like you mentioned, i kept locking up the front tire and activating abs. for me rcs 19, was too much for the super duke. it was on or off. i switched to rcs 17, as recommended by brembo, and it's sooo much better. rcs 17 on super duke still offers tons of stopping power and much much better control. ultimately, on super duke rcs 17 is safer on the street or track. i believe that brembo recommends rcs 17 for your bike. i suspect that you may not know what you're missing. all good. enjoy.

[@DemetriosMallous90]

​@@damytzeus I have no issues with the feel of the pull even on the "20" setting. Braking in general has been fantastic on this bike once all the brake mods were done (stock set up was too spongy). I'm sure the RCS 17 would have been fine too but I'm not switching.

[@lordgibbness]

The Yamaha and KTM have different caliper piston sizes so the recommendation is not the same. M50 and stylema you'd use the RCS17. Most others you'd use the rcs19.

[@ravenlovesyoursong3759]

how much it cost

[@DemetriosMallous90]

Around $400 new

[@nonanone4858]

rcs19 doesnt fit for your motorcycle. it must be hard to brake. use rcs17 and read the theory of hydraulic systems. not every brake cylinder is compatible with every calipers. according to your emotions it will be clear when you install the right one. sorry for my english. in a nutshell, the arm of the system is equal to the ratio of the total cross-sectional area of the caliper cylinders to the cross-sectional area of the main brake cylinder. in total, with a 17 cylinder, you can brake by (19 * 19) / (17 * 17) = ~ 25% easier. in practice, this is a huge difference.

[@DemetriosMallous90]

Not true. Already been using the RCS19 at the track with amazing results.

[@nonanone4858]

@@DemetriosMallous90 I'm not saying it’s worse, I’m saying this cylinder is not for your motorcycle. this cylinder is for calipers with a piston diameter> = 34. your motorcycle has a caliper piston diameter of 30 and 27 - for such diameters, a rcs17 or smaller machine is used. the larger the piston diameter = the harder it is to press. The oem cylinder has a diameter of 15. you could get the result only due to the fact that you switched the length of the lever 20-18 and because the oem cylinder is so bad. the cylinder has two parameters - its diameter and the size of the lever. the smaller the diameter = the easier it is to brake, the larger the lever = the harder it is to brake. these two parameters are manipulated when selecting a cylinder. in general, I do not exclude that it could have become better (although I doubt it), but I assure you that you have not even come close to how good it could be if you install a right cylinder. ps. 17 is not worse 19. for example 19 fit for vfr800 and gsxs750 (both < 100hp), 17 are fit for panegale v4 (>200hp). panegale breake better. 19 fit for old r1, 17 fit for new r1/r1m. and so on. if if you install 19 on the panigale or new r1/r1m, the motorcycle will be harder to stop than with 17.

[@DemetriosMallous90]

@@nonanone4858 I wasn't looking for increased stopping power, the bike already stops fine with OEM components. I wanted a better feeling brake pull, more predictable, more linear. With the RCS 19 I can use one finger with minimul pull to get the bike to start stopping. Trail braking is much easier over the mushy feeling OEM MC. Is the RCS 19 oversized? Maybe, still works great though. The lever is not hard to pull either. I've swapped back and forth between the OEM MC and RCS 19 multiple times now and a monkey could easily feel the improvement.

[@DemetriosMallous90]

@@nonanone4858 Also at some point I am putting on R1 calipers and discs anyway.

[@Ducatijay72]

@@DemetriosMallous90 try brembo road and race pads before you switch your brake's, worked wonders on my 09 👍 thanks for the upload

[@luisconceicao4913]

Put a r6 clipons on it

[@DemetriosMallous90]

@@luisconceicao4913 did already when I had it. Bike is gone now.

[@luisconceicao4913]

@@DemetriosMallous90 what was the time gain in stock to rcs19 and rcs19 to brake lines + rcs19? I do tracks with my xsr and im thinking in zx10r 2016 mc upgrade

[@13conair]

fit braided brake pipes and junk those stock calipers for a pair of Brembo's then you will know why everyone raves about Brembo brakes !

[@dougiequick1]

At that point why not go all the way and use larger rotors too. Its a shame Yamaha cheaps out on key stuff but I guess they are all about hitting pricepoints and selling volume instead of going high end like certain other manufacturers do

[@dsa4931]

I found no difference in 20 and 18 .....😮