British Seagull Outboard 25 to 1 conversion

[@JohnSmith-pl2bk]

Hold the "tickler" down steadily until fuel dribbles out of the carb intake...then release the tickler. Now you have a nice rich mixture for initial starting...

[@Dutcharmytent]

Great video content, I had to turn my screw a whole turn out

[@MetamorphicWonders]

dont forget to open the air breath on the fuel cap so the air can replace used fuel in the tank.

[@markthomasson5077]

I understood you needed to upgrade bearings

[@bradwalton7599]

if the motor is made after 1967 it can be converted www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/faq2.html#conv

[@pablourbina9927]

Hola soy de Costa Rica Necesito comprar la bobina de un motor British seagull no sirve la bobina necesito comprarme una dígame cómo puedo hacer para conseguir la

[@bradwalton7599]

Hello List if parts suppliers please use this link britishseagullparts.com/parts.htm

[@RideCamVids]

I'm surprised there is no angle of cutaway on the slides air intake side.

[@joostderidder]

To be honest ... for such an old 2-stroke-engine designed back in the 30ies, I'd never use 10/1 ! And "if" ... only to run-in a new engine. From the 50ies on, the standard has been 4 or 5% ... so 25 / 20 to 1 (also for bikes) Will do great on any "normal" 2-stroke oil SAE30 I think.(even if I know some people using SAE10W40 also.) Correct me, pls. if I'm mistaken.

[@bradwalton7599]

Hello Jacques, You can get more information from here www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/faq2.html#2stroke I have seen on forums people running pre 1967 engines on 25 to 1 without issues.

[@joostderidder]

@@bradwalton7599 I think that this is logic. The quality of the oils improved dramatically after ww2. I have a 125cc vespa from 1958. My mix is 20/1. And I'm running with sae10w40 since years without problems. Have fun with your seagull. I really like this little engine.

[@JohnSmith-pl2bk]

The bearings in the engine are not roller or ball bearings.. just plain bronze bearings that require a mixture that is richer in oil in order to completely lubricate those bearings....

[@joostderidder]

@@JohnSmith-pl2bk aha ... ok ... that explains it. But I suppose that with modern oil, 1/16 would be enough nowadays, no? Or Am I totally mistaken? That "oil-problem" on a 2stroke is many times a point of discussion. I have a 1957 Vespa (125CC) and running the engine with a mixture of 1/20 BUT multigrade ... SAE20/40. Some are telling me that this will kill my engine BUT I'm running that engine since many years without any problem at all. (still the original engine ... never been open)

[@JohnSmith-pl2bk]

@@joostderidder You should be using the mix oil for an air cooled 2 stroke ... that has a different formulation than that used in a water cooled outboard... the engine operating temperatures are far different. That old Vespa has fairly large clearances so using a modern multigrade engine oil that is usually found in the sump of a 4 stroke car engine is still better than using an old straight 30W from the 1950's.... A full synthetic air cooled 2 stroke mixing oil will have the bike showing very little oil smoke... the lubrication is still there, better than the original oils....but far less smoke..... I used the full synthetic in my chainsaws for the last 20 years...they stihl work with no problems. I used the best 2 stroke oils I could get during the 45 years I ran the same unrestored OMC air cooled motor on a rotary cut lawnmower.....synthtetic the last 20 years..no problems. If you want to experiment just mix the synthetic oil at the same 20:1 mix you now use.... and see if the performance gets better/and/or the smoke decreases? Then you could go to 25:1 which should still be fine... just use a proper small plastic measuring cup with ml markings... and wash out the "residue" oil from it into the mix......for every new mix..... It's a formula so precision helps......