Budget Subaru TGV Deletes (DIY)

in this video, I take the OEM Subaru TGV assembly and modify them so there is no longer any air restrictions for an easy 10 horsepower. This method is an inexpensive way to perform this mod, verses buying TGV deletes. It's even easier if you have top feed TGVs already

[@Mike_44]

10 free hp at home? Hell yes! Very nice work

[@mikepeterson6527]

It’s not ten more Hp

[@CoreyWilliams-eg1hn]

@@mikepeterson6527it’s a lot more than 10hp

[@ur_a_buS]

Baking soda blasting works well to gently remove corrosion and surface gunk. Or, walnut shell blasting works too.

[@doctormoore5937]

Perfect video tutorial! this is the next mod for me on the blob!

[@SWSpeedCo]

Thank you, im glad it helped!

[@rroby5526]

The orher-other option is to wemove the butterflies, remove the obstruction Polish up the TGV housings. THEN reinstall JuST the shafts, reinstall stall the motors on the ends and plug them to the harness. ECU thinks the TGVs are operating. No CEL, the shaft minor-obstruction is immeasurable.

[@final3119]

He says that at the start of the video. But the shaft IS the main obstruction. When the butterflys are open they're pointing straight up. The shaft is wider and obstructs more airflow.

[@JJ-cf7nb]

@@final3119 knife edge the shaft so that in the “open” position, it’s edge on to the air flow

[@djkingpin8786]

good video. I’m doing this now because I got a TGV code, turns out the actuator fell off 🤷🏽‍♂️.

[@SWSpeedCo]

Yeah they will do that lol

[@TStig39]

Well explained! Thanks for the video.

[@SWSpeedCo]

Thanks for watching

[@Snake.br549]

You can also take that shaft connect between the sensor and that motor just cut it in half so you you can have them close together plug them in and lay them off to the side of course with some kind of bracket to hold them together and the computer won't know any better

[@michalkolinek9405]

Hello, I would like to know what the control unit says when the electrical connectors are disconnected? thanks. Kolda

[@SWSpeedCo]

You will have a check engine light on the dashboard and a few codes relating to the tgvs. If the codes are present I'm pretty sure it puts the car in limp mode.

[@final3119]

tuning these without the motors connected is now a pita - tuners won't touch them. IAG has their passthrough tgvs now, but only for 08+ STIs which sucks for me and my 05 sti.

[@SWSpeedCo]

It's still easy to do if you use open-source tuning like ecu flash or romraider, but cobb doesn't let you disable cel on the access port since there green initiative movement.

[@final3119]

@@SWSpeedCo Yeah - but finding a tuner that will actually work with them has been my issue.

[@gregchisholm2127]

Hey I was wondering if you could tell me what size bolts you used to fill the whole on the outside! Saves me the measuring lol! Great vid tho!

[@SWSpeedCo]

I can't remember of the top of my head, if I had to guess I would say it's probably a m8 or m10. Thanks for watching

[@anthonynonya]

Could you bolt the TGV motor back on and have it turn nothing, and the ECU would never know?

[@SWSpeedCo]

For it not the throw a code you would need to retain the shaft at minimum, if the motor spins freely it will throw a code

[@thegreek5672]

I was looking for the video where you assemble everything. I am working on a similar project for my 06 spec b

[@SWSpeedCo]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/hXfPf4CJhtypi8U Here is the video where I install them, the engine is out of the car so it was easy, but its not to hard in the car.

[@SWSpeedCo]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/nYWVfWmrn8pmj8k this video gives you an idea of how to get down to the tgvs

[@thegreek5672]

I got the entire engine stripped down. Ready to pull it out and have been doing a lot of research on the fuel line assembly. I am converting from side to top mount and using the STI factory rail system I think similar to what you got going on.

[@SWSpeedCo]

Yeah I was running wrx top feed rails with an aftermarket fpr and lines at the time I installed the tgvs, but I later upgraded to a full parallel AN line setup

[@thegreek5672]

Thanks for the help will probably go radium in the future

[@ironman1518.]

Thank you reminds me cleaning intake and exhaust ports of 2 and 4 stroke motorcycle engines so the engines would "breathe' better and run stronger. Question please? What did you do with the electrical connectors that went into the little motors? How do you avoid a CEL?.

[@SWSpeedCo]

What I did was just left them unplugged and, as for the check engine light I used my tuning software to disable them. You could just pull the butterfly valves out and leave the shaft and motor connected and it won't through any check engine lights, but you won't get the full performance benefits.

[@rafaelalexandercoronelzamb4891]

So if I do this I won't get a check engine light or yes?

[@SWSpeedCo]

If you do this you will get a check engine light. A tune can get rid of it

[@sanmazda8104]

@@SWSpeedCo can i used a OBDII tool such as FreeSSM to remove the CEL?

[@SWSpeedCo]

That will only clear it temporarily. The code will pop up every time you turn the car on. You need to actually disable the code which requires a tuner to do so

[@Recon_Racing]

Woof woof woof...

[@abdullahnahas3728]

hey man, i've been trying to figure out what bit you used to polish, could you link me it's name or something please? P.S thanks for the great detailed video !

[@SWSpeedCo]

www.amazon.com/dp/B075C72PGK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_PMGKNWYMK4XDPKMXG6Q2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 This is pretty much what I was using except I had the ones that came in a dremel polishing kit. These are cheaper and should give you the same results

[@abdullahnahas3728]

@@SWSpeedCo perfect thanks so much

[@abdullahnahas3728]

@@SWSpeedCo and just another question, what was the tool you used to hold the dremmel called?

[@SWSpeedCo]

I used a normal dremel tool with a dremel flex shaft attachment

[@xgrapher]

why not just remove the flaps and call it a day

[@SWSpeedCo]

That's the best way to do it if you don't want to deal with tuning or check engine codes from the motors being disconnected. But the shaft and metal bellow it still create a significant airflow ubstruction, so if you want the most performance the best way is to just remove everything

[@xgrapher]

@@SWSpeedCo no not at all. Please don’t say things you have no proof of. That’s just your imagination

[@SWSpeedCo]

It's not my imagination I have taken airflow classes in college. There is a reason that formula one cars don't use round tubes on any part of the vehicle and that is because they creat significantly more drag than an airfoil design. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to understand that If you have an object in the path of airflow its going to be less efficient than with no obstruction. Not my imagination, do some research.

[@xgrapher]

@@SWSpeedCo don’t go to formula my friend bring a dyno sheet before n after to prove your point. I do this for a living n I get sick n tired of all the false information being spread out there. Theories are for schools but in the market you need to apply lab test it and only then sell it. No beef just saying it as it is

[@SWSpeedCo]

I get what you're saying, I doubt the actual horse power gains are substantial. But theory says its better, so that's what I will do. I would say the mod is not worth the effort if you aren't willing to gut the whole thing. The gains are small with a fully gutted tgvs in the first place and if you just remove the blades the gains will be less "in theory". I think it's a good while your in there mod but I wouldn't take off my manifold just to do tgv deletes and i wouldn't bother just taking out the blades because they are only closed for the first 30 seconds of engine operation then they are open the rest of the time. I understand your point and apologize if my response came off as dickish.

[@mikepeterson6527]

Waste of time

[@SWSpeedCo]

Why do you think that?

[@mikepeterson6527]

@@SWSpeedCo I’ve done the deletes and …. very little improvement, epa have stopped tuning for emissions, and to turn off codes is not easy. It is best to leave the shaft back in and not plug the ends this means the ecu will still function ok. I do have a mod if you’ve gone further and sealed the ends to save a retune running Cobb. The car was flying before the deletes and lost performance after, lot of work to restore the power!

[@SWSpeedCo]

I feel like it is a good while your in there mod. Maybe not so much today because cobb made it harder to delete the cel. At the time I made this video it was easy, and I'm on open-source tuning so it's still easy since the epa is not regulating it. It's probably not worth it for cobb tunes, but the open-source i think it is still worth it if you have the intake manifold off

[@mikepeterson6527]

@@SWSpeedCo what gains did you make, my car was flying before the deletes with many mods, and I still haven’t got it back up to that performance! So with the expense, time, and effort for possibly 5hp. …..not noticeable on the road! Different for track.

[@SWSpeedCo]

So I did mine with a bunch of other stuff at the same time. I went from a stock engine to a built engine with stage 2 cams, tgv deletes, top feed injectors and a bunch of other stuff and tuned it from scratch from there. Tgvs never gave me any issues. Seeing how much ubstruction gets removed from the air flow there has to be some power gain from that even if it's 5 to 10 hp you wouldn't notice by the butt dyno. That being said when you go big turbo and other supporting mods like I did I think the benefit of a mod like that would truly shine once you are almost doubling the amount of air going through the engine, those little ubstructions can take a lot of power. Same idea as why bolting a CAI on a stock car doesn't make any power because the stock intake wasn't a bottle neck. But once you put a big turbo on and your Making 25psi that stock intake is like sucking through a straw so then you put a CAI on and you make alot more power because you removed the bottle neck

[@donotunsubscribe]

Do you have to plug the hole that connects one side of the TGV to the other? Where the pin used to be?

[@SWSpeedCo]

Only the 2 holes on the outside, the inside one you can leave open, it helps balance presure differences in the intake.

[@donotunsubscribe]

@@SWSpeedCo Great thanks for the quick reply!

[@SWSpeedCo]

No problem 👍