I think they are worth it. I didn't break the transmission until like 420whp. I would say 350 hp is reliable up to maybe 380 with the blast plates

@SWSpeedCo right on thanks man!

It's a 50mm if I remember correctly

Good luck, it's not too bad just do it on a day where you can take your time and be patient. Thanks for watching!

That sounds awsome, I'd like to experiment with a built 5 speed some day, maybe on the next subaru

@@SWSpeedCo Don't wait to long! The RA gears are finally EOL and I imagine there aren't to many people selling parts. I've had to do a lot of searching to find random washers and parts to complete mine. Even Subaru has some backordered with no ETA on when they would arrive. eBay, Amazon, and random part websites have helped me get all my parts

As far as the short block assembly goes, the process is all the same for all the variations of ej25. This is and EJ255 to be exact but it has ej257 crankshaft and forged pistons and rods.

You don't need to wait till it is cold to remove the Funnel, just be careful not to burn yourself if the coolant is hot. I like to fill the overflow reservoir to the cold level when cold before starting the process, I will top it off when it is at operating temperature if it is below the hot level

Yeah i tuned it with romraider and ecuflash

That's the best way to do it if you don't want to deal with tuning or check engine codes from the motors being disconnected. But the shaft and metal bellow it still create a significant airflow ubstruction, so if you want the most performance the best way is to just remove everything

@@SWSpeedCo no not at all. Please don’t say things you have no proof of. That’s just your imagination

It's not my imagination I have taken airflow classes in college. There is a reason that formula one cars don't use round tubes on any part of the vehicle and that is because they creat significantly more drag than an airfoil design. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to understand that If you have an object in the path of airflow its going to be less efficient than with no obstruction. Not my imagination, do some research.

@@SWSpeedCo don’t go to formula my friend bring a dyno sheet before n after to prove your point. I do this for a living n I get sick n tired of all the false information being spread out there. Theories are for schools but in the market you need to apply lab test it and only then sell it. No beef just saying it as it is

I get what you're saying, I doubt the actual horse power gains are substantial. But theory says its better, so that's what I will do. I would say the mod is not worth the effort if you aren't willing to gut the whole thing. The gains are small with a fully gutted tgvs in the first place and if you just remove the blades the gains will be less "in theory". I think it's a good while your in there mod but I wouldn't take off my manifold just to do tgv deletes and i wouldn't bother just taking out the blades because they are only closed for the first 30 seconds of engine operation then they are open the rest of the time. I understand your point and apologize if my response came off as dickish.

That part does suck haha, If you have the rubber grommet style spark plug socket you can put dielectric grease on the grommet and they still hold the sparkplug but come off much easier. Idk of any way to make the magnetic ones easier.

Yeah, had a magnetic socket but I just used a regular one to get it on and the special one to get it off

That works too haha

Hard to say, It probably took me 40 hours total but I was doing lots of other stuff than the transmission. If you have all the parts and everything goes smoothly you can probably do the swap In 2-3 days

Thank you! I hope you can figure out your car troubles

It held up well for the time I had it, I think I put around 1500 miles on it before I installed the 6 speed.

Thanks, I need to hurry up and get them out haha!

Those would be too big to print but I can print molds to make them out of fiberglass or carbon fiber. I will add this idea to the list but it might take some time

Well I don't want to spoil it but I think you will like the video haha

Yeah if I remember correctly mine needed a little bit of sanding to fit correctly. I think there is a 5 speed model and a 6 speed model and you may have to trim depending on model and year.

I had to cut a hole in the dast for it to sit in and wires to pass through and I removed some of the padding so it would sit in flush then I used fiberglass bondo to smothe the edge and blend it into the dash. Then I flocked over everything. Not to easy of a project to do but it turned out nicely

@@SWSpeedCo great work man!

@evandaniels8537 thank you!

Hahaha, Couldn't agree more

I'm not a fan of it either but you have to use the right words to reach the audience

I cant Sorry, It's something I plan on selling on my website, so I don't really want the file floating around on the internet. Hopefully you can understand that. Thanks for watching!!

Not from a bad tune i hope

What are you talking about bro, there was nothing wrong with the silicone job on the engine and I have over 30k miles on it running strong

Im glad you found the channel too haha! It's a glow shift gauge pod made for an 08 to 14 wrx/sti. I cut out a section of my dash and bonded it before flocking over the whole dash.

Yeah so I have bc coilovers for a legacy gt. They work on obxt but the rear end is at max height and it's pretty low. If you remove the body spacers it fixes that but there are alot of parts involved with that. You also need rear adjustable lower control arms because your tow will be all messed up at that height. I have some older videos that go into more detail on lowering a outback.

Wow I appreciate the quick responses. I discovered your channel today and I've spent the last several hours glued to my PC lol. Thank you, and I look forward to your tuning videos and learning how to myself. I'm at 335whp on a dyno dynamics via ap v2 and I'm about to convert to top feed, 1300cc and an fp green or bcpx500 shooting for 400whp on 92 and 450 on e85.

@michaeli-7186 definitely possible, I always make my gasoline tunes kind of conservative an I was able to get 380whp on 91. I never tuned it on e85 but 450 is definitely doable. I was looking at the bcpx500 turbo too before I decided to go with the blouch 1.5xtr.

Grill is just a no name mesh grill I bought off ebay when I first got the car in 2019

That's good, I will be uploading some detailed tuning videos in the near future that I will try to cover all the bases. I also learned from hpa academy courses which were very helpful in building my knowledge and confidence

Unfortunately, I didn't film that part in too much detail. It is a guage pod for a 08 to 15 wrx/sti. I cut a hole in my dash for it to sit flush with the rest of the dash and for wires to pass through. I then bonded and smothed it with fiberglass bondo. Then I flocked the entire 6 it tuned out nicely. The guages are aem x series guages and I have a wideband o2 sensor, oil pressure, and exhaust gas temperature, which is that useful. Hope that helps and let me know if you have any other questions

I haven't heard of the boost solenoid thing before but I will look into it. The car should be targeting 0.75 lambda (11:1 afr) so I probably mis spoke in the video if I said 0.70 lambda. 0.75 is pretty standard for these cars with a tmic for a safe tune. Sometimes people will run leaner for front mount intercooler because of the colder intake air you don't have to worry as much about pre detination. E85 has an even better charge cooling affect than a fmic so you can run 0.80 lambda and higher timing at WOT with no detination.

@@SWSpeedCo Hmmm weird when I converted my .835 to afr in EcuLink it said it was 5 AFR but that must be just some weird conversion thing, I never ended up running it because of that lol. You should get a hybrid harness for IAT sensor and the maf. I am currently making a harness and gonna weld a bung to my upgraded top mount so I can get accurate temps lol. I'll keep that in mind when I see how leaning out the car goes, if it knocks ill lower it back to 10.8

@RpmRunners yeah, I don't think ecu link is calculating that right. To calculate lambda from afr all you need to do is take your afr and divide it by stoich (14.7). So 11:1 would be 11/14.7 which gives you 0.748 lambda. You can go the other way by taking lambda 0.75 and multiplying it by stoich and that gives you afr.

I will try to work on that. Thanks for the suggestion

Can you elaborate?

Sounds like a good project, just like mine haha! You will really like the stage 4 video when it gets released if that is your goal. Thanks for watching!

@SWSpeedCo I can't let her die yet and ofcourse man your welcome always nice to be able to see things done and have them explained cant imagine the money I'll save doing as much as I can myself

@brandonolson1959 yeah, alot of the cost associated working on cars is labor sometimes more than the parts. So you will save alot doing it yourself

I'm not 100% sure on this but I think the issue with that is the sti hub swap doesn't work on the legacy platform like it does with the wrx because different chassis. Another factor is also axle length. I believe the legacy uses longer axles than the sti. The spec b axles from subaru aren't cheap but It may be cheaper than buying everything for a hub swap if that would even work but I'm pretty sure it doesn't. Hope that helps, thanks for watching!

This is the part number for the hose I used on grimmspeed: GRM090060 Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the quick reply. Btw love your setup!

@davidbetancourt8317 Thank you, no problem!

Sorry to hear that, did he have a twin disc as well or what it just a standard sing disc clutch?

@@SWSpeedCo turns out he had a single. The dampers broke and broke off the fingers too.

I know alot of people like to pull the engine instead. I think it would be easier but, I've pulled transmissions probably like 6 time so I've gotten pretty fast at doing it this way.

They are 1 inch or 25mm wheel spacers. Thanks for watching!!

Yeah broken clutch fork would definitely cause some issues. Thanks for watching !!

I dont have the 5 speed anymore, it held up at 380whp but I lost 3rd gear at 430whp. I rebuilt it and drove it for a while at 380 until I saved up for the 6 speed swap and it was fine. I have a couple videos on the 5 speed rebuild and stuff.

@@SWSpeedCo ok 10-4 im doing a 4.44 5speed swap now just waiting on my 2sp blast plates ordered them about a month ago they just left Jacksonville yesterday so I should have them in the next few days not alot on them so just trying to see if they helped anyone. Thanks

Yeah I would say they definitely helped out. I haven't heard of many people pushing that much power on a 5 speed without it breaking. It's not going to make it indestructible but it will help

Yeah, no absolutely I’m just a little over 280 hp and I am extremely happy with that but the guy I purchased the car from was launching it at a dragstrip so that five speed inevitably blew up. He also blew the engine as well and I installed an EJ206 as a replacement I figured it should maintain that horsepower fairly well coming out of a TwinTurbo configuration but thank you for the video, and I will definitely subscribe and watch some more of your videos thumbs up man appreciate it you will hear from me again I promise☺️

@Sickwid sounds good, thanks for watching!!

Good to know, for my newer tuning videos I'm trying to incorporate screen recording as much as possible but that is a good tip I will use too. Thanks!

moog-ev801557 Thanks for watching!

I'm sure it can be done on other vehicles, the limiting factor is weather or not it has a tuning table that varies ignition timing based on intake air temp. If you can find that table and edit it there is a pretty good chance it will work

@@SWSpeedCo you have a build break down on all the components to make this correct? 😂 I totally need to make this for my jeeps new forged setup

Yeah, all you need is a 5 pin really, a switch of your choosing, and some wire. Most importantly though is being able to tune the ecu like I said earlier otherwise it won't work

@@SWSpeedCo gotcha Ile be doing that via hptuner

What was black box with all the red wires in it ...sorry I'm just intrigued by this and always wanted to hear a boosted 4.0 with antilag 😂

Pin 87 doesn't connect to anything, you are just using it as a point of disconnect if that makes sense. Normally with 5 pin relays your devise runs through 87 and 30 so when there is no power the circuit is opened and your devise is off. Then when you flip the switch it switches from 87a to 87 and closes the circuit and turns your device on. In this setup 87a doesn't connect to anything. What I did here is the same but flipped since we want the circuit to be closed all the time when no power is applied to the relay we use 87a. Then when we apply power it opens the circuit and makes the ecu think the iat is -40 since it is no longer connected to the sensor

@SWSpeedCo Wow. You're on point. I could not have asked for a better explanation. Just rebuilt my project ej25 and doing my final inspections before I drive it. Then I'm going do this install. You have earned a follower, my friend!

@masubi5784 Thank you, glad I could help!

@SWSpeedCo Bro. I am running just about the same setup as you to include eflexfuel kit and am having issues with stumbling. Is there anyway you could help. In your install video of eflexfuel you spoke about inj. timing. I am out of Texas.

Can you describe the stumbling in a little more detail and I can try to help

It seems like the swap has been done before so it's possible. The process is more than likely very similar, but as far as what peripheral components are needed to make it work together I am not sure. I would recommend looking at some forum post to see what others have done. Hope that helps!

I put a new link in the description of the video, let me know if it works. Thanks!