Bugera 1960 Infinium bright cap mod (removal)

[@paulkielt9301]

Thank you showing us the inside of the amp. Sometimes removing the bright cap can help a lot!

[@jamesjrmusic]

Paul Kasper You’re welcome, sir!

[@trueworld3857]

An equalizer in the effects loop to control the brightness.

[@markjovanelli2607]

You don't need to remove any boards just to do that. Tried it but removing it other than a little less bass makes it sound like just channel 2. sounds better with it intact. if you want less treble use the blending of the two channels as designed or lower the treble knob

[@jamesjrmusic]

I ended up restoring it to stock.

[@reneotten7376]

Who puts an attenuator in the FX loop? They belong between amp output and speakers.

[@jamesjrmusic]

This kind does not. It will melt.

[@NINEWALKING]

Next time use the solder wick or solder sucker and desolder top leg. Then bend it as you did. Way to go might be to solder a little toggle switch so you can add it when needed. Or combination of switch and potmeter where you can add as much as you want. Or on off on togke with middle being off and top position stock value and lower position being smaller value or better same value but with a resistor in series. Play wit a value with a potmeter and find the value you like and then use resistor in the same ballpark.

[@jamesjrmusic]

Thanks for the tips! I didn’t have any braid available at the time. I just wanted to remove it and check out the difference. I ended up putting it back to stock. I wish I still had it, especially since I’ve been missing King Eddie.

[@NINEWALKING]

@@jamesjrmusic if you have old RCA cable or some old headphones cable you can use that just check to see if it is a coax cable. When I make my amps I use push pull potentiometer to activate the bright cap. Pull for bright. Amps I build are mostly point to point with best parts I can find and that makes hem bright enough without of the bright cap. Using full size pots makes it easier to mod to. In Gibson style guitars I use only dual layer isolated vintage type braided wire but n the amps sometimes I use high end low capacity coax cable. For short run in this amp ofc coper RCA cable will do the trick.

[@NINEWALKING]

@@jamesjrmusic BTW thanks for the video. I’ve needed to see how is it build and what components have they used. This video gave me the information I’ve needed. Thanks.

[@jamesjrmusic]

NINEWALKING my pleasure! That’s what yt is all about!

[@NINEWALKING]

@@jamesjrmusic it should be like that. Anyways I bought one. My plan was to check it out then modify it to my version of the Super Lead. Basically amp looked like great donor amp. Getting proper cabinet and chassis costs as much as the whole amp. Power transformer is already gratis. When I got it it I got really amazed. Output transformer is good as well. Actually amp sounds really good. That is if you are plugged in the parallel input. Master Volume is a disappointment though. It can’t bring the level down enough. Amp surprised me so much that I feel bad that I am going to use it as the donor. I have placed that project on the back burner. Plan is to gut all but the Iron out. Use Super Lead Plexi turret board and build my version of it. Real full size components hand wired, big size chassis’s mounted pots. Better jacks. Get rid of so many cables inside. Use proper chassis mounted filter caps. Practically build it to last and sound even better. Second channel will sound a lot better but overall plugged in both channels at the same time difference will be less noticeable especially for the untrained ear while this amp sounds good to boot with. Basic sound that is. I have not had the chance to hear it at the higher levels due to the all current issues. Even at the lowest setting it is to loud for the apartment use. Dynamic seems to be huge. Basic sound is very similar to my JTM45 replica I’ve build. My JTM45 sounds rounder and nicer but it is the same ballpark. Anyways this amp sounds so good that it feels bad to but it. It is amazing what you get for this amount of the money. It is not build to be used as touring amp. But for a band rehearsal and steady gig where you do not need to move it a lot it can work as good as any print board circuit amp. Just be aware it has Super Lead 100 watt Plexi genes. It is a beast and needs to be tamed. I’m building one or might be two other amps first and after it I am going to concentrate on this one. Parts are going to cost more than the amp it self but overall it will still cost way less than parts to build a Super Lead clone. I think I will keep it after it despite the fact that I really do not need jet another amp.

[@topa1798]

1:04 Dr.dre

[@fabbianniccolo8267]

Why did you remove the C13 insted of the C12?

[@jamesjrmusic]

Fabbian Niccolò At this point, I don’t remember. I think I read it on a message board post. It may have been a schematic I read.

[@infectionsman]

marked 102 = 1nF, old marshalls use 0.5 nF and some people even find that too bright and change to 0.1 nF.

[@jamesjrmusic]

Thanks for the info!

[@levijessegonzalez3629]

Besides volume, does this mod effect the tone of the amp?

[@jamesjrmusic]

Levi Jesse Yes. It makes the amp much darker at a lower volume.

[@levijessegonzalez3629]

@@jamesjrmusic is at what freq range? Can the treb knob compensate, or is it a different freq than the treb tone stack?

[@levijessegonzalez3629]

@@jamesjrmusic probably good for bright fender guitars? I rarely use Gibson's or humbuckers at all

[@PeterDad60]

Tweezers would have worked. Also, you could reinstall the bright cap on the other side of the PCB, no need to remove things as it's all in the open. Your welcome.

[@jamesjrmusic]

Thanks, Dad!

[@raymondsmith6494]

If you desoldered the front of the capacitor all you would’ve had too do was put a long flat head screw driver in and turn as you melted the solder, no amp di section..........

[@jamesjrmusic]

Thanks for the tip!

[@Chugg.Norris]

Or just turn the treble down.

[@vox1966]

Buy a bass amp

[@reneotten7376]

Who puts an attenuator in the FX loop? They belong between amp output and speakers.

[@jamesjrmusic]

It’s not the kind of attenuator you think it is. It’s just a 500k volume pot in a box with two jacks. Sorry you got the wrong impression. If you put the box I built between the amp and the speakers, that pot would overheat and you’d probably kill your OT. What that simple box I made(and thousands of others have made through the years) does is let you dial the amp down even quieter than the PPIMV does and still get a lot of preamp grit.