Build review of AMT/ERTLS USS Enterprise D 1/1400 scale: Part 6.4 - Saucer detail.

Build review of my next project, the glorious Enterprise D!
Covering current work in progress for the build to accurize the kit.
Sorry for the waffling in this video, I'll try to do better next time :-)
Aside from the usual kit building element I'll be introducing for the first time the use of Arduino to have this kit all singing and dancing and I'm learning Arduino for the first time.
Useful links for beginners to study Arduino:
KZbin channel: OstrichLongneck - playlist video series 'Arduino for starships'
Phaser array sketch code for experimenting: Virtualight/Jennifer Petkus (Simulating phaser fire with neopixels):
virtualight.com/?p=1927
Reference images of the six foot studio scale model: myenterprised.com/the-six-foo...

[@ptaylor5014]

I will be doing these phaser strips on an upcoming build soon, i would be careful cutting out all the original phaser strips at once as the saucer will become all wobbly and difficult to get it all aligned again, i would think about using some kind of temporary BRACE to hold it all together until the new clear pieces have been installed.

[@thekitcave2654]

Good luck with your upcoming build, hope it goes well. Good advice, thank you. I think some stirring sticks (the ones you get in coffee shops) tacked to the back would do the job of keeping it aligned as a make shift brace or working on sections one at a time.

[@tonyrusso-dx8mx]

Make sure to do those large phaser strips on the saucer in sections. I fear cutting out all off it at once will leave you with a difficult job getting them true and level. As much as the kit is anyway!

[@thekitcave2654]

Thanks for the advice, I’ll keep that in mind. Good tip 👍

[@MotionPictureMiniatures]

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but there's no need to have the phasers cast in water clear resin to get the phaser firing effect, the white urethane resin transmits the LED's below perfectly fine. In fact, having them cast in white/translucent is preferable over water clear as it helps to greatly reduce the LED hot spots and blend them to recreate the on-screen effect. I have a quick and dirty demo video on my website showing to illustrate how well they transmit the LEDs below, which were just standard 3mm sitting directly under the strip

[@thekitcave2654]

I did see your video on your instruction page, was just a little worried that the light may be too ‘dimmed’ even after a light spray colour coat (just me being overly fussy 😉) Once I get the addressable led strip in place (before securing it permanently) I’ll see how it looks, if the hotspots are too much, I’ll take off the clear parts and install the white ones 👍 I just like having options with things (and making hard work for myself 😂)

[@Iskelderon]

The bottle seems overpriced, when you can buy the 3D printing version by the liter. Essentially the same thing as with Tamiya extra thin, buy the expensive version once for the applicator and then refill with the more reasonably priced version (Tamiya extra thin is a 50/50 mix, their airbrush cleaner a 49/51 mix of the same ingredients).

[@thekitcave2654]

True, but I tried transparent red 3d print resin in a silicone mould not too long ago and it reacted badly during curing. Bubbles up and started to give off fumes when the uh light was turned on.