Building Old School 327ci For 57' Chevy Bel Air

[@kevinbrucestevens7747]

302 and 327 favorite engines all around

[@aurktman1106]

I put a 66 327 in my 57 4 door hardtop, should have it finished up soon!

[@thomascabral1713]

Hey I’m 73 years old and built my 1967, 327 small block engine by myself. I had a fender mine Bill just tell me what to do and I did it put it in a 1957 Chevy works great

[@TRyan-op2jo]

Great to see young guys who know “old-school” stuff. Legit badasses. Great video.

[@moonshineperformance9135]

Thank you! Old school is the only way to go

[@kgkg6649]

Old school is actually just school! Great job 😀

[@StruggleandStrive]

Nice job guys. That thing sounds awesome and very responsive!

[@moonshineperformance9135]

Thanks! It's gonna be a nice car he is putting a 4 speed behind it!

[@antonioserna8352]

For all you guys that do videos on motors please. mention the horse power ,great video very nice.

[@jackzeilsdorff3164]

im running one in my 56 chevy gasser. 12:1, 034 bowtie heads, tunnel ram intake, with .630 roller love them lil inch engines!

[@ericscrutchins6350]

Don't you just love to hear em' screaming off the line and bang first through fourth or fifth gear

[@ericscrutchins6350]

My other engine is a 301, 302 but by way of a maxed out bore job .125 over, I have a ton of work on the TRW Pistons can't afford them Bill Miller pistons so I used what I had, it's got miller aluminum rods angle milled heads a tunnel ram with two 660s a crane roller cam, I'm using a glide with a coan 8000 stall torque converter with 6:14.1 gears out back and all of it going in a tube chassis Vega

[@ericscrutchins6350]

Why are they putting JBweld on those brass freeze plugs some sealant around them will do

[@shootermcgavin2819]

They are called core plugs and they go in dry.

[@ericscrutchins6350]

@@shootermcgavin2819 that I know, but everyone commonly calls them freeze plugs, just about anywhere you go around the United States and NASCAR teams would secure them in the block with self tapping screws and permatex sealant and there are a lot of people who don't install them dry they believe in sealant and pound them in its a personal choice with individual engine builders everywhere

[@jjmccloud]

TrickFlow is hard to beat, if we're staying in the same price range of course. They make some real decent heads and some decent valvetrain parts too

[@19ADAM80]

Nice man👍🏼 Wish I could get you to finish mine up.

[@moonshineperformance9135]

Thanks! They are definitely a lot of work for sure what is the wheel base?

[@19ADAM80]

@@moonshineperformance9135 Short bed

[@ericscrutchins6350]

I'm rebuilding a 66 327 block from a early new model year Camaro I really don't want to race it, it had a 3 inch stroke crank in it. I have a pair of 292 turbo angle plug heads ported by Brandywine cylinder heads and the pistons are 13.5:1 Ross pistons and 5140 I beam rods, a Holley strip dominater with a modified 650 double pumper, a comp cams 640/620 lift roller cam will handle the 2.05/1.60 stainless steel valves and a good ol' moroso oil pan to button up the bottom

[@albertgaspar627]

if that engine wasn't run already, check for valve clearance--you've got a 301 with a big dome to make that compression and non OEM valves with a ton of lift. sometimes those domes hurt the flame front inside the combustion chamber, too.

[@ericscrutchins6350]

@@albertgaspar627 Oh, absolutely. I'm taking my time with domes being fly cut for clearance,,,,,piston to valve and also piston to deck because this little motor is using aluminum rods so those are some critical clearances

[@albertgaspar627]

@@ericscrutchins6350 good news is that mechanical compression ratio will "cushion" the slugs at TDC, which tries to stretch any connecting rod material. good news is you aren't running a stroker since aluminum rods want a big beam that doesn't always play nice with tall cam lobes, so you should be okey dokey.

[@shootermcgavin2819]

2024 and people are still using a 4-peice oil pan gasket huh

[@andrewreece3861]

Sounds awesome! I’m building a 66 327 with SP hyper pistons and plan on using the no hole TF camel humps like you did. With the 60cc chambers compression adds up to about 10.4:1. What are the specs on your cam?

[@ericscrutchins6350]

It's a reground comp cam it's a 604 int./ 602 exh. with a 106 love separation but this is only one that I'm going to use, the other is a 669/ 635 crane cam it's an old pro stock grind from 74 meant to use 1.6 rockers on the intake side it's got a long duration on both intake and exhaust 330/332@.050

[@richwahneEXPERTSmadeEasy]

Let me see if I saw this correct...did you use JB Weld to seal the brass freeze plugs to the block?

[@shawnstevenson9252]

I seen the same ! I'm like wtfff

[@shawnstevenson9252]

Must be a warm state thing

[@philbrown8056]

JB WELD THE CORE PLUGS?

[@NORCALFOR20]

Can you cap off the breather in the lifter valley and use valve covers with breathers in it 🤔

[@moonshineperformance9135]

I suppose you could, not sure if there is something you can buy for it though, good question!

[@princeomar140]

Yes, you can remove the can inside the lifter valley and use a freeze plug to cap the hole next to the distributor. You can then use a breather on one valve cover and a pcv valve on the other.

[@jjmccloud]

Yup

[@annabellendad]

Can you rebuild my 327 out of my 67 Camaro, it's the original engine. Been rebuilt once so it's bored .030 over.

[@markhirsch1782]

Nice

[@moonshineperformance9135]

Thanks! Sould make a sweet ride when it's all done

[@johnferris8723]

So, how long are you running it between cycles? And how many times?

[@moonshineperformance9135]

We would run it until it comes up to temp and do that about 5-6 times at around 2,500-3000rpm. Now we have decided to run it for a half hour around 3000 rpm

[@johnferris8723]

@@moonshineperformance9135 Thanks. Seems every cam break in we do ends prematurely due to excess heat build up.

[@moonshineperformance9135]

Yes that is a problem sometimes especially if the tune is not within the ballpark on the first fire. That's why the first method I said is nice. It doesn't ever see low rpm and still has plenty of heat built up and should be plenty of time for break in. Ideally you would want to keep it running of course

[@johnferris8723]

@@moonshineperformance9135 I am going to try the full run time initially. If that doesn't work I will try your method. Thanks for replying. Jack

[@moonshineperformance9135]

No problem thank you! Also make sure you have primed the oil before first fire up as well. Hope it goes well!

[@albertgaspar627]

JB Weld to hold the core plugs in (they aren't "freeze plugs"--water doesn't have a brain and think, "gee, the exit is right over there"), hmm, that's interesting. Could just thread 'em like Ford did on the Boss 302 to add block strength. Glad to see someone not waste time painting the inside of the block: "oh, it smooths the passages for oil flow"--really? why does it remain so rough? paint ain't got a brain either. "it prevents rust"--ever open up a sealed engine to find rust there? oil and water doesn't mix. besides, you didn't paint the piston skirts nor crank and rods, they're metal, they'll rust too if that ever was a problem "it keeps the sand from the sand cores that the core plugs are needed for from getting into the oil pump"--except to make sure your paint sticks, you have to clean off the oil residue and heat up the surface to evaporate water out of the pores for the paint to stick and...that's cleaned out all the sand. Also glad to see someone stab the cam in first--lot easier to guide it around the bearings when the crankshaft isn't in the way. If you want to check for perfect ring gap, put a torque plate on the block when you put the rings in the cylinder to see what the distortion gives ya. No torque plate? run your head bolts thru a stack of washers or old wrist pins to replicate. When the piston and rod combo goes in the hole, use a fish scale to pull 'em down to the crank (with old fuel line covering the 'bolts so they don't scratch up your rod journals). If you need too much force to pull or one cylinder shows a higher reading, you know you done hung up a ring. really want to get tricky on a small bore engine? before the pistons go in, put on the heads and shine a light up in there. How shrouded are the valves by the cylinder wall bore? If you can get some offset dowels for your combination, you might just move the head to where it works best for air flow. that baffle at the top rear of the lifter valley often connected to a "road tube", which would dump fluids while sitting at traffic lights. i think some driver instruction manuals still warn motorcyclists about riding in the center of the road due to this, and/or warn about roads being especially slippery at first rain--again, due to the amount of oil these old setups dumped. Now some of those oil filler caps have the baffles installed to let the engine smoke after sex, er after being ridden hard.

[@Brandon-nt3sz]

why is the oil pressure so low. should have tuned up oil pump. there should be 60 lbs on a fresh motor.

[@jjmccloud]

Maybe his bore gauge was a little outta wack and the machine shop had that rod bearing clearance right after all 😆 nothing like some unplanned extra bearing clearance to drop that psi 😆

[@rexmasters1541]

There is not any performance on this channel.

[@moonshineperformance9135]

I’m sorry you feel that way. Maybe try another channel?