BUILDING OUR OWN DRIVEWAY DIDN'T GO EXACTLY TO PLAN | DREAM ABANDONDED PROPERTY

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[@chucky9901]

WOW !! I have never seen a cement truck driver help a homeowner screed cement.... Hats off to that Cement Truck Driver...

[@SailingGoodBadandUgly]

That's how puerto Ricans are ! 🇵🇷 🇵🇷 🇵🇷

[@CarlosCruz-ll5ez]

Puerto Ricans are always willing to help out

[@undercoloroflaw]

Dude...it's Puerto Rico. That's the way they roll. Try living in a place like that. We sailed our 40ft Block Island sailboat from Panama City FL to Isla Mujeres Mexico to Middle Long Cay Belize to Livingston Guatemala and 20 miles up the Rio Dulce. Every body quits work at 1000 because of the intense heat. All you can do is lay there and sweat if you're a gringo unacclimated to the tropics. I mean to say...everybody knows how tough it can be and everybody has some sympathy and will help you out. Not like here in America. You can e dying in the street and people just walk on by without even a word.

[@88TRUNKBACK]

I’ve never seen it either, buy that man a beer

[@hywaywolf]

I know people are saying "thats how Puerto Rico is", but I suspect that isn't how it is for the rich obnoxious Americans who go there with plenty of money and just buy what they want instead of working for it. I remember in these comments in the early homesteading videos where people were saying how tough it will be to get permits and other difficulties when building in PR. I doubt those people were working side by side with any contractor who worked the job.

[@craigc.7033]

Matt, all things considered, that looks awesome. As a builder of 48 years, the work you have completed is incredible. Don't worry about the Visqueen marks. In time it will be irrelevant. A thought, "can't you find one local guy for a couple hours to help you during the pour", it will make a world of difference. And I admit, you are much more brilliant than you look.😀 😀😀😀

[@SailingGoodBadandUgly]

I could get a guy to help but I try to plan the projects so we can do it just the two of us. The driver helped me with the screedboard so Kristen didn't have to but she was ready.

[@craigc.7033]

I can see that. As you now know, "practice makes perfect". So your future pours, will be a bit easier for you, knowing your capabilities. It's not worth killing yourself. Who would feed the chickens if something happened to you. 😀😀😀@@SailingGoodBadandUgly

[@scottjones5221]

ROCKIN ROLL 😊

[@jeffreyepstein874]

@@SailingGoodBadandUglyconcrete takes 28 days to fully cure. Color changes are normal until cure process is done. It’ll be fine

[@dtemplman7816]

Agree 👍

[@jerry8986]

Matt 46 years in construction 34 of those in site work and road construction. For a gravel driveway consider using roll of geo grid fabric to stabilize road, 3" quarry rock base (or is close to that size there) then cap with either 3/4- or 5/8- inch gravel wearing coarse. Used this method many times to build temp construction and permanent roads over wet clay soils in Oregon and Washington state. The geo grid keeps the rock and soil separated and bridges the weight of vehicles over a wider area. Geo Grid is required in many building parking lots by owners and many road projects I have done for state, county, and city road projects. Construction road built to handle loaded truck and trailer. Geo Grid fabric, 9"-12"(depending on soil) of 3" quarry rock, cap with 2-3" of 3/4-" or 5/8-" gravel wearing coarse (easy to rake and same structural support as 1 1/2-" or 1 1/4-" gravel). No Concrete boarders so water can freely drain through rock. If Concrete Boarder is desire build on 4" of base rock so water can drain through base rock. Geo Grid fabric in US comes in 12', 14', & 16' wide rolls & is not expensive. Hope it is available there if you decide on this method. If you decide on a concrete or asphalt driveway later, you just built your asphalt or concrete road base.

[@TimTimTomTom]

Listen to this guy. I'd add, you want the gravel top coat to have the fines included, not cleaned washed gravel. The fines let it all lock together, instead of being a shifting mass of loose gravel.

[@angelofjustice5081]

That's what i said in response to their last video. And of course laying concrete directly on top of that soil without any underlay or gravle that has had time to settle will most definitely crack and break. And i wont go into not preparing the terrain without any drainage first ! 😳

[@ronkraft8903]

I agree, just be ready for all the powdery parts of the fines to wash down to the bottom over time. I live on a pretty steep hill and have to scoop/sweep up fines from the entrance to my shop building about every 6 months due to rain. I put the gravel with fines down about 10 years ago and still am dealing with it. I finally put 3/4" clean rock down and wish that was what i used instead of the gravel with screenings.@@TimTimTomTom

[@shawnleonard4974]

Yeah, what he said!

[@TheOverproof151]

Excellent advise.... well explained and geotechnically sound.

[@JeffreyWilstone]

Hand prints are a must!

[@DiZZoLabs]

👍🏻

[@stevie_jean1953]

I would do them in the middle or close to the house.

[@jimmarshall5453]

My yard has kitten footprints in the concrete. You might make a roller to look like kitten prints and roll it across the steep parts for extra traction and cuteness.

[@TheManicMind76]

It is so refreshing to watch you two together tackle the world. Matt is not a man of many talents.. he is a Master of one specific thing in my opinion. He has mastered Self Management. He refuses to say "I Can't" and that is applicable to ANY other skill or project in life. Inspirational to say the least. You make a hell of a team!

[@18twilliams]

The rain makes for a slow cure, makes for strong concrete! It's better than in the sun cure. That will last a very long time. Well done!

[@raykinsellas9089]

Ya....all that Hard work will Last, until the very First Tri Drive Mixer or the very First Pump Truck drives on it! The Good news is, you will never ever notice all of those Stains....in all of the Broken concrete! lol You are putting the cart before the horse. Forget the Concrete, and just go with a Rock Driveway. You are not living in Beverly Hills.....you are in some Jungle, in the middle of No where! I can only imagine, what the Mixer Driver was thinking! Bahahahaha

[@derekd1510]

@@raykinsellas9089 Stay in school, son. You don't know.

[@thinkforyourselfjohn3167]

​@@raykinsellas9089your not a very nice individual. I live in a rural farm and have a concrete driveway that leads into my garage. Ignorance is bliss. Hurting people hurt others.

[@joelentz2644]

I was thinking the same thing, that’s a lot weight to be putting on that drive with the truck and a full load. Maybe check into a line pump if that’s a option.And at the rate of 6 months per section your looking at 3 and half years before it’s done. You also should have put in some contraction joints unless your planning on putting them in later. Just easier to to do after you float it. Looks good.

[@derekd1510]

@@joelentz2644 Of course you would let the concrete cure completely.

[@North_Texas_HeartBreakers]

I did alot of slabs as a young man. I don't know if you know but you can role on some diesel fuel on the inside of your forms and it will keep them from sticking to the cement and it will keep the boards clean for you to be able to reuse them. Turned out great. Great job. I don't think I've ever seen a harder working guy!!!

[@bobbolan4672]

A standard garden sprayer works awesome in form oil application.

[@TheOverproof151]

I would recommend hydraulic fluid rather than diesel.

[@michaeljfleming4363]

You didn’t put joints in it when ready…now you must cut in joints so it cracks where YOU want it to!! … cause it WILL crack…all concrete does..you need to control where ..

[@TheOverproof151]

@@michaeljfleming4363 You have no idea of what you are talking about.... expansion joints are not required when temperatures are within a reasonable variance ( tropical) also you have no idea of the concrete mix and if plasticizers or ash mix was employed. Modern concrete is not your grand paw's concrete. Slump and air entrainment isn't a requirement in their region. What you stated is complete nonsense. End of story.

[@craigsymington5401]

Any oil will do (waste oil is free from the local motor mechanic, or chip fry shop), so long as it's slippery and water-resistant.

[@desertcityentertainment]

Good on you for letting your wife know that she has been helpful even though she insisted that she wasn't good at it. That was my favorite part of the video.

[@susanhighfield8284]

Guys, dont stress the discoloration. That entryway looks amazing! You're looking at it too hard. You dont wanna spend years on it, you've got a house to build. You live in a gorgeous jungle and do you really want it to look like perfect surburbia? Honestly, I think the creative/jungle vibe/ranch owner vibe look is what I would have expected for your personalities all along. Does that make sense? 😊 Love everything you're doing there, and your channel is so fun to watch.

[@cbxandy9441]

Congrats on doing an awesome job at your first large concrete pour! Matt's muscles are really showing the results of his hard labor. Regarding the staining from the plastic cover, I'd leave it along and not worry about it. The next few rain storms will even out the finish. BUT please don't hit it with a pressure washer or it will ruin the concrete by blasting holes into the still uncured concrete. Please be patient with the staining, it won't be noticeable for very long. Again, congrats!

[@72plyduster1]

The only thing I will mention is maybe you should have started at the bottom, the way cement cures is with time not sure if they recommend driving on the cement especially with a cement truck. The only other way I can see is if you rent cement motorized carts to transport the cement from the road to your new slabs going down the hill. Best of luck!

[@rubetube4727]

I was wondering the same thing. I gotta see how this pans out.

[@GaryJones2012]

I thought the very same thing. Matt said you can drive on it in 28 days, but that's not heavy concrete trucks. They could wait months before being able to pour lower pads. I do think the idea of the concrete troughs on either side with gravel for the road is a good one.

[@tnolan3176]

Could use a concrete pump !

[@kevio6868]

​@@tnolan3176 yup!

[@robert5711]

A yard of concrete weighs 2000#..you put 3-4 yds on a concrete truck and drive on the new driveway after a Year of " curing" and it will ruin it! Start from the bottom..use a pump PLZ

[@ProudPapa-zd6gs]

Much respect to the concrete driver for assisting with the screed.

[@janholst]

You can make it uniform with a floor grinder. Keep the plastic on. Concrete is not supposed to dry, it's supposed to harden. The hardening stops as it dries out. So it's desirable to keep the concrete moist for the first 28 days.

[@derekd1510]

You gotta put your hand prints, initials, AND the date. YESSS, Kristen! YOU DID THIS! Take pride in it and commemorate your achievement for posterity. You gotta give Matty this one. He deserves it. Matt: I would recommend you put it on the garage apron upon completion of the house slab, however. PS: Drainage will be the key to a good roadway in your area. The subject of gravel led me to the idea of french drains. Curbs on each side with a french drain down the middle ...Just a thought...

[@chucky9901]

Ok made it to the end... If you have access to a concrete saw.. Go back and cut yourself 2 foot x 2 foot or 4 foot by 4 foot squares... 1 1/2" to 2" deep... ( Do not cut as deep as your mesh of course) the cuts will give the pad a place to crack within the confines of the cuts.. Next pad you pour there are tools to "cut" your lines (expansion joints) directly into the cement / concrete while it is still wet ... also get yourself some kneeling pads.... when the concrete is hard enough to support your weight.. on the pads.. you go with a trowel.. and work the surface (bringing up cream) and you can achieve yourself a mirror finish before doing the broom finish.. other than that ... great work : )

[@danstevens5782]

Well, we've gone from one of my favorite sailing channels to my favorite Sunday morning cartoons. KEEP UPTHE GOOD WORK

[@TimTimTomTom]

That's way too tight a grid. 10x10 is perfectly fine. You want them about 1/4 of the thickness of the slab.

[@floydgraves3997]

It looks good... don't worry about the discoloration, it will probably wash out. A few suggestions: 1). Don't drive on it with your truck for at least a month. 2) Don't drive a concrete truck on it for as least 2 months. 3). If you pour strips on either side, expect in time that with loose gravel in between and heavy trucks and machinery driving over it, the gravel will push the concrete strips outward and crack and/or break them. The gravel will get driven into the ground and thrown on top of the concrete strips. 4) I'd recommend pouring the full driveway, starting at the bottom and working your way out to the top. Saw cut or trowel in joints across the driveway no more than 8 feet apart, so when the concrete expands and contracts, it cracks in those joints. 5) Pour your driveway in sections about the same size, so they are manageable. Get one man to help you with the pour and finishing. Most concrete finishers have a set daily price... no matter how long or short the time it takes. Your "Eye Candy" isn't any help to you pouring concrete. 6) Tie each slab to the next by drilling holes minimum 6" deep, in the edge of the slab where you are going to join the next slab. Drill holes 1/8" wider than the diameter of the rebar you'll insert into holes. Cut your rebar to a length that you'll have a minimum of 12" sticking in to the new concrete you'll pour. Use a two part epoxy in the holes of the existing concrete to bond the rebar. This epoxy can be found at Home Depot. It looks like a double tube caulking and has a seperate mixing tube that attaches to the caulking gun made for this application. This will insure the tops of the slabs will stay even with each other over time.

[@larryrussell4905]

Highway mesh would be better for the heavy trucks you will have driving on it into the future. Cement is just one ingredient of concrete. Concrete is cement, sand, gravel and water. If you do a strip of concrete for a border, make it extra thick with rebar because it WILL get driven on and break up. If you do plan to use concrete, start at the far end so that the incredibly heavy concrete trucks don't destroy what's already been poured. I'm not a "know it all" but I used to work in concrete in my younger day. Just my 2 cents. You really did an AWESOME job! Really!!!

[@TheOverproof151]

I don't think a concrete truck would make it up a hill with a clay base like that... even empty.

[@fredrichards2203]

You need to cut it at 10 foot intervals, concrete always cracks at 10 foot. 2:49

[@TheOverproof151]

@@fredrichards2203 OMG... the amount of armchair nonsense being posted here is beyond belief. NO.. concrete does not "always cracks at 10 foot"... where do you people dig this BS up? Consider the fact that modern concrete in no way resembles what your daddy of uncle were familiar with. They cast foundations now at sub zero temps with no issues. Plasticizers, fly ash content, rapid cure and slow set never mind reducers etc. ... totally affect modern concrete. Stop posting on a subject you have no valid information on.

[@nateabel5548]

If your gonna have concrete trucks running over your driveway, you should put down some 3/4 plywood down, that’s why they normally do the drive after the construction is done. Good job 👍 Matt on what you’ve done this far, don’t forget to put some stress lines in 😊

[@IEnigIMa]

Dear GBU subscribers, love the thought you guys are pouring into this lovely couples channel. I fear as hard as they work, and the best, most thoughtful advice that you give, is too late. Matty is a learner by mistakes. I am as well, but cheers to everyone for just being an awesome interactive audience.❤. I am sure they can see the love. Truly inspiring 😊. Looks great though Matty….you always pull it off in the end.

[@SailingGoodBadandUgly]

We do see the love! And we learn alot, from mistakes and advice from everyone

[@IEnigIMa]

You guys always pull it off in the end. It looks great. My best to you guys

[@codylapoint]

Those lines and discoloration will fade and disappear in a few months, I wouldn't sweat that at all. Especially once you start driving on it. Matt did a good job on that for sure. The only thing I like to do differently, which I'll admit completely is overkill is that If you really don't want cracks put down two layers of mesh and space them about 3 inches apart. Put your lower one down just like you did, and then put another mat up 3 inches or so above the first. Then you have a layer in compression and a layer in tension depending on how the ground settles. This really helps keep cracks from happening, and cracks let in water which cause rust, and rusty rebar causes spawling which can bust big chuncks out of your concrete. But just imagine how a sheet of paper flaps up and down if you shake it, and then imagine a pizza box being shaken the same way. The pizza box doesn't flap like a flag in the wind. The metal in concrete is what really makes it strong and durable, two layers spaced apart make it nearly indestructible. Let's just say Matt wouldn't have been busting a pad out with a sledgehammer that was constructed the way I'm telling you guys. Is it necessary? Idk maybe, maybe not. Using stainless steel mesh was a huge step in the right direction.

[@slimjim3229]

Don't worry about the color. You did a very good job. Move on, rain will keep changing it over time.

[@craigsymington5401]

She had me worried, I was so relieved when I saw the small "stains", it's a driveway dear, not the new linnen😂, rain, dirt and traffic will soon make their own marks...

[@mikehamilton3833]

Don't worry about the discoloration, Kristen. Weather will even it all out.

[@mikekares-b8q]

That was great that the Driver helped you ,He most likely has some experience .

[@looyosummers5796]

Kirsten, nobody is good at first, you have to keep going until you get it, you can do it, have faith in yourself. 💪💖

[@kaydog2008]

GJ Matt❕❕😉👍👍You nailed it. Don't worry about the stains their do to moisture under the plastic and the cement heating up. A pressure washer will remove it. Plus you can drive on it 48 hrs later not 30 days. The longer times are the amounts when concrete stops curing. Did you know the Hoover Dam is still curing to this day.

[@Rkh99]

Hi, First time commenter, long time watcher. 46 years experience doing exactly what you are doing. WATCH OUT!! Concrete does not fully harden for 28 days. DO NOT. Let a cement truck on your concrete for AT LEAST that long. The weight of a loaded cement truck will crack your new driveway before you ever enjoy it. At 20 day to 2 weeks your small truck can safely use it. Before that you will break your own hearts. Ray

[@shawnwilkes9050]

The 6x6x10x10 wire mesh is perfect for your driveway, as you are doing cut the mesh flip it over and each one of you grab the ends pick it up and walk back to where the mesh isn’t trying to coil up and push down as you walk forward the cut end as u bend the wire down, the wire will lay flat the more wire u install the better u will get at this technique. Great job u 2 r doing & keep up the good work!😊

[@danmendoza8377]

Thanks!

[@davidpotsko8435]

A man of many talents

[@mesutozsen903]

Eline emeğine sağlık bu güzel vlog ve video için kolay gelsin hayirli işler bol bereketli kazançların olsun 👍👍👍👍

[@RedMercuryBluesBand]

I don't know anything about concrete but maybe you should start at the bottom and come up - that way those super heavy concrete trucks wont damage your 6 in drive ?? LOL

[@lilygirl2719]

If the concrete trucks could get up and down the hill as is, they wouldn't need a driveway at all -- I think.

[@charlespeck886]

What would he do if the trucks kept getting stuck at the bottom? Not a good idea, those trucks won't hurt the slabs if they are properly done with reinforcement wire and correct Rated Mix!

[@ironhorse3497]

A little late for that, i'd say.

[@TimTimTomTom]

@@ironhorse3497 still, better late than never. Easier to replace a couple sections, than the whole thing.

[@woop2235]

That sure makes a lot of sense 😉

[@edwarddavis507]

Pad looks great! I know my comment is late but you shouldn’t worry. As long as the texture is right and it’s level the sun will take off the rest.

[@BarryBrowning]

The king and queen of their own personal tropical paradise continue to charge head on and conquer bit by bit the tasks they set before themselves!! My hat is off to you Matt and Kristen! God's blessings on your continuing adventure. 😊 👋

[@Cyber_Nomad01]

Pressure wash it once dry, then spread some dry concrete mix on it and lightly dampen it.

[@alancheck1688]

B+ or an A- ?? you've got to be kidding me. I've seen Pro jobs not this well done! You both are fantastic with all you are doing. Great video again; but please make the drone shots several seconds longer? I am in snowy Pennsylvania and lush jungle foliage is to remind us Spring is around the corner up here. (I am SO over Winter already.) Thanks to both of you for putting it out there. Blessings to you.

[@jt822]

4000psi concrete is 100% cured in 28 days, it's not per inch.. Your work is very good. If you pour 3 foot strips for a drive you will get 18 feet per yard. You could make a stamp pattern and create your own design . It was awesome the driver helped, in most places here they are not allowed. You can attach a small oscillating sander to a 2x4 and make your own power trowel.

[@MrSki-tyvm]

Brush when you throw small pebble and it bounces and doesn't stick. That's pretty much the point when it's at beginning stage of setting.

[@alejandrovanags4948]

Nice work! Thanks for sharing! Suggestions compact, moisture barrier, gravel, compact, then concrete, make some expansion groves. Pretty nice of the concrete truck guy to help.

[@fxpthl]

Having been the asphalt/concrete paving industry for over forty years, I am amazed at how well your project turned out! Congrats to “Carl the Concrete Guy” on a job well done! Also, it was nice to hear your Lady complimenting your work! She has alway# been great with her jokes about you but words of praise seem to be coming your way more often! For. Big bad fighter, you sure have a warm and loving way with you fur babies!

[@gregoryfietz3831]

I'm no concreter , but now I'll give it a go , thanks Matt . Ready mixed , only way to go !

[@oneSneakyBanana]

Let’s go, Concrete Carl!

[@dantheman9228]

Hope you are buying that nice fella that helped you with the concrete a few beers Matt 👍

[@seanmullin9655]

Hi guys! I know you have not heard from me in some time but I watch your channel every week. Matt I am very impressed with your block work and your concreate pour. I love the way your are so unintimidated about trying anything! I love the way your lovely lady always builds you up by complimenting you. You guys can be a success in life with these positive attributes that you have! Good character is worth more than a good bank account!

[@bobr9689]

Maybe use railroad ties along the border, put landscaping fabric down to allow the rain to seep into the ground, and keep the gravel from sinking into the ground, also keep weeds from growing up through the gravel.

[@DiZZoLabs]

You two are the best! Thanks for my Sunday morning ☕️🙏🏻 time. 🫶🏻

[@Thereminator101]

Matt...you can toss small stones/gravel on top of the wet cement, then right when it starts to harden, spray it with water and wash some of the concrete away and 'raise' the stones.

[@doncritzer2798]

Supposed to embed coins with the year it was poured.......along with the hand prints hahaa

[@PBG762]

BTW, to save money, I would pour concrete only on slopes and put gravel on the flats. Later, you can convert it and put concrete everywhere

[@brianvo706]

Flip the mesh over go to each corner and pull up on each corner and it will flatten out .Be careful that wire will stab you .I did concrete and custom pool decks for 30 years in Orlando, Daytona,Palm Coast and all in-between.

[@MitchAllen-z9c]

I'm in Washington state and been a mixer driver and plant manager doing concrete for 16 years, and myself and most of my drivers help home owners out on site all of the time.

[@Xavileiro]

Even with the two concrete channels. keep using rebar and connect them probably every ten feet. along with the wire down the channels. because it's possible the channels can get pushed over the cliffside. also add pvc channels to let the water flow through it. you can also dig deeper on one side and place wider pvc so you can run cables and wires. just run them later.

[@TheOverproof151]

So.... geotech here..... regarding your driveway construction with gravel.... my advise is to place clear blast rock... or 6" minus clear fractured stone (this should be available from a quarry) on any area you believe may be impacted by runoff. The gap gradation of the stone will permit water to flow freely through the rock, while impeding any erosion due to the interlocking structure of the aggregate. Gravel can be placed over the clear stone levelling course and should remain solid and dry. If you have any underlying clayey soils that are soft in nature... consider placing a geofabric cloth over those areas to prevent the clear stone from sinking into the sub lying soft clay there. Another benefit is that the stone can be used to level an area prior to gravel placement. There should be no need to compact the stone after placement. Nice work on the driveway. Looks like you had minimal slump on that concrete.

[@jeffreyljones6577]

If you'll go with gravel for most of the driveway, run drainage across on a down angle every 15 to 20 feet to help from having g the gravel washing into the jungle.

[@TreasureoftheSun]

Please show the animals. It makes me happy to see them.

[@CarlosCruz-ll5ez]

Man you guys did an excellent job, cant wait to see that house being buit in the near future, greetings from Brooklyn NY

[@XXXAgentMulder]

You could have let the rain on it, but the coloration is no issue, it will most likely fade with time and you won’t even notice it. It looks great. And you don’t want a perfect concrete driveway in that environment.

[@calbo4051]

Looking Good GBU!

[@seandenny1553]

Every time you do a broom stroke dip it in a bucket a water on both sides of your brim then shake off the extra water And do that over and over😊A tip I remember from a concrete contractor friend is using a bug sprayer with diesel and spray that on your wood forms and they won’t stick to concrete and you can use the forms over and over.

[@johnbaudino2535]

When you're pouring a driveway downhill the runoff when it rains over the edge of the driveway will undermine it making a curb having places for the water to run off so that it does not undermine the soil good luck brother

[@michaelcanto6175]

Looks Great, No Harm done, after a months usage it will blend in, CURE TIME 7 TO 10 DAYS, Light traffic, regular vehicles 30 days, concrete is always curing infinintely

[@MrRicardo8714]

Looking great!

[@RealGenX]

Mason Matt! Good job guys ❤

[@rexhavoc2982]

Next time make a T handle hook and as you pour the mud just pull up the wire as you go, some rakes have a hook welded on the back for pulling up the wire and re bar. I was looking for some PVC conduit under the opening. So remember the rest of the driveway needs to support more loaded cement trucks. Start from the bottom and work your way out. Saw cut 1/2 way through the slabs, for crack control in 10x10 foot squares..28 days is for the slab and not per inch. Looks good,

[@jpinvestcebu]

Hey guys I'm seeing the vision now, great job. Matt, you work circles around most 💪slow down brother.

[@SailingGoodBadandUgly]

We are slowing down a little

[@earlstarboard4818]

28 days is the design strength goal. Don’t put a ready mix truck on it for at least 2 months. If the steel is in the right position it should be okay. It is called CONCRETE. Cement is one component of it, that real powdery gray stuff😊

[@rocketscientist007]

They repoured the concrete roadway in front of my house 4 years ago. I watched it all, you did it just like the pros. They used a concrete pumper with a long remote controlled boom to do it all. The curbs were done with a concrete curb forming machine which lays it down fast, maybe 3 ft/min, no forms needed. It somewhat resembles a snow blower. Gasoline powered, self propelled, workers keep dumping buckets of concrete into its hopper.

[@MrFroglips69]

Groovy episode. Your new flooring will stain with various nature colors from your surroundings. Running cement stringer down your road with gravel in the middle will look groove and work. Every 29 feet or so put in the cross bar of wood. This will help the gravel sliding down from the rain. There is a special wood you can get that will grow greenery Good luck.

[@jasongrinnell1986]

Awesome job Matt. That driveway is going to look so good.

[@bamabldr66]

Yall it is beautiful 😍. I poured my 1st concrete in November 1984. Officially. I sold or built 250 houses prior to 2005.... I am 57 and it looks great. I just wish you had started the 400' away from the 1st but don't worry about it.... The only concrete that I have ever seen that didn't Crack was in Jamaica in the Spring of 2004 with my wife on a 2 day vacation. I added a 3rd day but Hurricane Ivan hit Gulf Shores, Alabama in September 2004 and ruined my life... I ❤️ love yall... Have a great 2024. -Cliff Battleship Marine Supply Fairhope, Alabama USA 🇺🇸

[@drcornelius8275]

Don't worry about the discoloration from the poly. The differential cure won't hurt anything but the initial look of the concrete and will get better over time. Better to have some discoloration and the curing help from the poly than the alternative of not using anything on the surface for curing. Tell her to relax.....

[@garyh1912]

Nice work. Don't panic over any stripes, blotches, or other discoloration as those should go away as it dries. The drying can take months, in a dry climate, so if you get regular rain I haven't a clue how long it will take. Although you might gently wash off the clay from the surface, as it could leave a stain. As for rock with a concrete border, I believe that you have stated that you have clay soil. If my memory is correct, you can place a geotextile fabric under the rock to prevent it from sinking. If it was me, I would consider placing a drain line in a trench under the rock. I would have several individual runs of pipe, channeling the water away from anything that you don't want an actual stream running through. And congratulation on finally getting me to create a channel to be able to leave a comment.

[@nathanearl-davies2994]

Good job, will all be good and dirty/discoloured once you start driving on it, have a great week

[@deepdivedelight]

Kudos guys! Smoothdiny Magic Matt

[@RV_Chef_Life]

Matt is the only person I know where 90% of construction projects involve flip flops 😂

[@KeithChegwin24]

I was a bit disappointed he didn't tackle the concrete pour in his customers denim hot pants and cowboy boots 😂

[@franktartan6808]

in Florida flip flops are the state shoe! even dock builders show up to work in flip flops!

[@inscop520]

As much as it rains there, I would consider putting a few "desaguas" diagonally across your driveway. Desaguas are commonly used on dirt roads to prevent erosion when rainwater starts flowing and cutting into the soil. The issue I see for you guys is undermining the cement in certain places, causing breakage or collapse. Rather than make a raised bump to direct the water flow, I would cut a small trench in the cement and add either a cement waterway or some upside-down tiles to direct the water to where it will not erode soil around the driveway.

[@calvinh.8882]

You can walk on it after 2 days, and drive your truck on it in a week, but you'll need to give it almost a month before you can drive heavier trucks or equipment on it. I think it turned out great, and a lot of that discoloration left from the tarp will fade away once it sets up good.

[@mshore74]

Great job guys. In Colombia, I watched the crews make the town roads in concrete. A couple things I noticed was that after brushing the finish they would cover it with sand and then mist the sand with water to keep the concrete from drying out too fast. After this, they would cover everything with black plastic sheeting to let the concrete finish cure. A year later when I was back again the road still looked great.

[@400AGLNET]

Matt, you can do both bud. Do the concrete as a normal pour. Then sprinkle your decoratively colored gravel over it while wet. Float the gravel into the top layer and cover with cement. When it's almost cured spray the cement off the top 1/4" revealing the gravel but keeping it locked in the the cement layer.

[@CCRobertsCarpentry]

Matt you need to get you a magnesian hand float tofloat and shape everthing it brings moisture and slop upto the top.😊😊😊

[@timskufca8039]

don't be so hard on yourselves......with time, the discoloration will blend in, especially if your plan is to stain the surface. Make sure you give it several weeks to cure, now that the surface is hard, before you mess with any finishing. Let it go! I give this a solid "A" grade. Well done!

[@allenlloyd8006]

You both did just what you should have. Great pad, and the discolouration might be erased with cLR or cleaning vinegar. Excellent job

[@jefferyholland]

The concrete will look fine after it all dries. For your climate it should hold up well.

[@pb0231]

Still looks good! The driving on it will leave marks..no worries, y'all did great!!

[@dmack7786]

You need to use rebar not wire mesh in the driveway,

[@SailingGoodBadandUgly]

Mesh is fine for a 6" pour

[@deeperspace9]

Not at all. Mesh is fine for that pour.

[@davidbaughman9905]

I used to drive a cement mixer and everyone I know used the mesh in driveways

[@ZombieKiller1965]

Rebar is out of style for a driveway. All the cool kids are using mesh. Seriously though mesh is just fine. Generally you only use rebar for vertical pours now.

[@dmack7786]

For those that think wire mesh is fine it all depends on how far he plans to go with a concrete drive way. A driveway using wire mesh is usally good for loads up to 8,000lbs a fully loaded concrete truck can weigh over 70,000lbs, almost nine times heavier than your driveway was meant to withstand and with no other way to enter the property they will have to drive on the part that has been poured allready. See the problem?

[@Sergio-gm4gv]

Impressed with the concrete skills Matt, it looks awesome

[@rogeredwards7056]

Roll out your mesh a few yards and then use your claw hammer to pull up the mesh and then that will bend it so that is lays flat. You will also need to use your claw hammer to pull the mesh up into the slab while you are pouring the mud.

[@9Antonian]

Nice job! Don’t worry the discoloration will fade.

[@albertmanning6653]

Looks like a FANTASTIC JOB...

[@Davidspurs1882]

That's a really good job guys, you have a really solid entrance to your home.

[@dennisdavis4420]

You two are such an awesome dynamic! Great video!

[@fourxman1]

Drill footing for the steep section & fill the footings first with Reo coming out of those footings to tie into your main slab, drill dowels & Chemset into your previous pour ( even have the slab slightly thicker on the marring edge, use fibre crete rather then that chicken wire.

[@strcat666]

Hand prints are optional, but you should date your concrete.

[@GetIntoTheMiX]

As often as it rains there have you considered building a small portable pavilion that you can move/ put up at whatever location you are at....sort of a portable bimini to protect from the rain. I have been wanting to suggest this but its only now I have been able to catch a new video as I have been playing catch up for the last 30 episodes or so.

[@robcatterton8244]

You should consider a concrete pump company as you move forward. Concrete trucks are going to crack your drive if you have them back down there. Also, having a concrete pump will make the job easier for a small crew. You can use the hose to put the material right where you want it and not have to pull it so much by hand.. Looking good so far.

[@lucase.rosadomartinez4346]

Corazón cut the end 2X6 in half and work with 2 wire mesh rolls, will help to save time no need to cut just roll out, tie together and lift with the scrap block.... the cement truck may have extra cement so prep some additional area to pour and latter cover with the next fresh pour. A+ work on my book for both. The acknowledgement of Kristens limitation is reasonable but the filming is top noch.... Love the team work and mutual encouragement. Always making things stronger is cheaper in the long run since repairs are more expensive. Gracias.

[@waynehelsel3949]

Your doing a great job

[@myckee]

I think it looks great. Also, the sun may help bleach it out some. Great job Carl LOL!!! Never sweat the little things.

[@nea273]

Great job with the concrete. A grade.

[@kgreltdtunnelgroutingeduca1861]

I am not repeating all the very correct praise to you both, just agreeing to it all! The 28 day concrete strength of your slab is NOT dependent on the thickness. The whole thickness reaches the same compressive strength at the same time and will improve even after 28 days. Secondly, you should have kept the plastic on for say 2-3 days even adding water underneath the plastic to keep it wet. Wet curing will reduce shrinkage and cracking as well as improving final strength! 😀

[@thomasjeffersoncry]

Get a pool trowel, they have rounded ends, much easier to use, you don't catch an edge. Also you can get the concrete company to add plasticizer it makes the concrete runny without adding more water which weakens the concrete.