Bushcraft Experience, Why 5160 is The BEST Steel Ever Made!!

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[@rpaull3]

Some people don't realize that any carbon steel will outperform a stainless steel in nearly every way except rust obviously, but I chose 5160 as well. I made a 5160 sword.

[@csh6220]

Besides being so expensive, CPM 3V is very hard to sharpen in the field if you let it get dull. IMO, 1095 and 5160 hold an edge plenty long enough and I can get them sharp again quickly which is important to me. Try to put an edge on 3V with a rock you picked up from the ground.

[@csh6220]

Just a few short years ago VG10, ATS-34/cm 154 were the super steels. Now it is S30V. 3V, S35VN. I wonder what it will be in five years from now?

[@voltsoftruthBSbuster]

Would have to agree with you 5160 is a great steel and is one of top 3 for me. If I was totally honest I'd say its my 2nd or 3rd choice depending on the situation. I still prefer L6 over 5160 since in my experience L6 seems to be more ductile and will bend quiet bit even after flexing a great deal before totally failing. Where 5160 will flex a great deal but typically will not bend much after that, once you push it to its flexing limits it will in most cases snap. Heard 80crv is also a great steel but personally I don't have any experience with it. My favorite steel so far is A8 which unfortunately very few people and knifemakers are familiar with. Its a great steel which has .5 carbon 5% chromium. So its in a spring steel territory. Its similar in toughness to L6 and flexes great deal and will even take a set if pushed further but holds an edge almost as good as A2 since its from the same Air hardening tool steel family. Just to give you an idea how tough it is its charpy C knotch impact value at 59rc is 160 joules. For comparison CPM 3V at 59rc has a charpy impact value of 104 Joules D2 at 60rc has value of just 20 joules 440c at 58 has 19 joules A2 and O1 have 50 joules respectably at 60rc. And finally S7 at 58rc has 165 Joules of energy. So we can see it has the toughness of pretty much of a shock résistant steel, but holds an edge and cuts like A2 or 52100. But the down side is its not cheap and its almost impossible to find. More knifemakers use this steel in Europe and Asia than in US. A8 modified is very similar easier to find but not exactly the same steel it has 8% chromium so holds an edge a bit better but just a tad less tougher, but will still be tougher than 3v. Ok im getting carried away, just my 2cents on my favorite steels.

[@ChateauBeaufort]

NIOLOX & D2 are NOT even similar. There is Niolox & Niolox+… lower Carbon, more Niobium etc. Fine grain & tough. I like 5160… easy enough to forge a knife & is tougher than 3V… @ 59 HRC… with a good Heat Treatment (1525 F to form Austenite, Quenched in a Cold bath of Dry-Ice&Alcohol, followed by a double 375-400 F tempering). D2, I am not too fond of… but I like M2 (Chisel steels are O1, A2,3V, M2 for a practical reason: Silky slicing). AEB-L & 14C28N are good economic choices for replacement of 5160… if you are not forging…

[@TeamDiscus]

I've never heard that helle uses 5160... Interesting

[@CommonCentsOutdoorsman]

I like 5160 but I wouldn't say it's resistant to staining at all. It rusts fairly quickly in my experience... almost as bad as 1095. Edge holding for me has not been as good as you say, certainly not as good as 1095. But I believe everyone has different experiences. Every knife steel has it's place and can be useful in different applications. Nice talk.

[@jessebond4221]

D2 is a tool steel just shy of being considered stainless vs. A simple high carbon steel like 1095 which is considered a spring steel as is 1070-1080-1084 and 1095 has nearly as good shock value as 5160 or 9260 or even S7 your also wrong about carbon being pliable because it very much isn't quite the opposite actually also worth noting is the popularity of 52100 bearing steel for knives which you didn't mention at all in this video ....now the expected hrc for 5160 straight from the quench is actually lower than that of upper spectrum 10xx steels or that of A2-O1-W2-D2 etc. Etc.because of its lower carbon content which means it won't get as hard or retain its edge for as long since the edge relies on micro carbides in the steel being hard enough to maintain shape but soft enough to flex without breaking ( a place where spring steels truly shine) ....I could rant on but this comment is long winded as is but all it comes down to is personal preference and education as to what a steel can and will do

[@kingsoutdoors4379]

i always used 1095....went to 5160 never looked back. been using knives for 40 years . i want a steel thats easy to sharpen in the field but usually just gets touched up.... i have an ontario Ranger i stripped the powder coat and honed..... my Baby lol.....

[@kevinAuman1]

Benchmade 200 and 202 are both well under $200 and have 3V steel... there are quite a few knives in 3V that are under $200 you simply have to look

[@chopsddy3]

I’ve made blades of ATS34, d2, O1, W2, 52100, and 5160. They all took great edges.The knives that do the most work, the ones I depend on for countless tasks, are all made of 5160. This includes large chopping tools and machetes. 5160 is comparatively cheap, easy to forge ,grind, harden and temper. It takes an excellent and durable edge that is easy to touch up while working. I carry a hone in a leather sheath that is treated with polishing compound (White Dupont no.2). The steel comes back to shaving sharp easily. I have a large chopper , made from a Ford truck leaf spring, that must have chopped several cords of hardwood into kindling by now. It’s work load has been brutal. I made it about ten years ago and have never had to do more than buff the edge to keep it extremely sharp. In fact, I have to stop writing and put it to work now. It’s cold in here!

[@RikthDcruze]

you want cheap 5160. get one made out of suspension leaf spring.

[@iruwild]

I like 5160..very cheap and easy to forge..and very tough..hold reasonable long edge and get razor sharp. I hear that 80crv2 is also very good, but is often out of stock and more expensive.

[@bladetherapy3797]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge, i have thought for years that d2 doesnt get enough praise, thanks for your honesty and information! I am definitely a fan now

[@Woodyt]

This is a excellent and informative video. Love the info on the other steels too. Thanks

[@danielgrant9213]

I appreciate the video. It's got some useful data points for me. The 3V vs D2 corrosion resistance was useful since I've had a couple of D2 blades for and just picked up a couple of knives in 3V. D2 is pretty good to me in terms of corrosion resistance (generally I can ignore contact with plain water), so V3 being more corrosion resistant is a pretty big plus imo.

[@richardhenry1969]

I find toughness more important then wear resistance. A lot of folding knives people talk about are very chippy if used to cut anything other then paper and cardboard. So real choices for me in fixed blades 5160,1095 if store bought 3v then for folding knives cts-xhp, 14c28n, Aus10, s35vn I'm sure other steels might be better for some these are the ones that work best for me. They are my absolute favorites. If I'm anywhere I will have at least 2 of those steels on me any time I'm out of bed and next to me when I'm sleeping. Lol

[@schlooonginator1227]

Ease of sharpening is the most under rated feature of blade steels. This is the feature you are most likely losing out on with expensive super steels.

[@Airik1111bibles]

I like 5160 its tough BUT I've come to learn more about sharpening and maintaining my knives esp grinds and its changed my view. I drift more towards stainless, I really like Mora's 14C but I also really love good American 420HCStainless like Gerber's USA made blades. Its very easy to sharpen holds a decent edge and honestly living in Oregon it really doesn't rust bad ....actually not at all in my experience. I've had 1095 knives and also Mora's carbon steel rust just by being threatened with water "joke" 😂 but dang the Mora's carbon steel is very prone to rust. Ontario's 5160 is great steel and in my experience if ya leave the coating on and let it naturally smooth out, it does a good job of keeping it rust free. I know folks hate coating but honestly if you use the knife the coating becomes very slick, they just need good batoning and chopping work done to them .....Use them puppies, that's the problem with coating, people don't use their knives long enough to see the change.

[@SilverWatcher.]

I have a Buck 112 ranger in g10 and 5160 drop point Bos heat treat🔥 bought it for 49.99$ from Amazon