Buying hummer H3 2006 (information that can be apply to any vehicle)

This is a little walk around a hummer h3 2006.
I point out a few problems with the vehicle (can be applied to any other vehicle). And what to say to the seller to drop the price.
The fact that you can do your own repairs, doesn't lower the value of the work that needs to be done!
Feel free to visit the Pro Bono Shop at pro-bono-mechanic-shop.creato...
All funds are going to be used for better recording equipment!

[@probonomechanic]

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[@robertmugabe2457]

Больше видео! Очень полезно!

[@fuxbox]

Dang man I admire your determination but that thing was ready for the scrap yard. But thanks for the tips

[@probonomechanic]

Ya, I know there are some in better shape, but the fun was rebuilding it. At the same time, it's the best example to see all the problems. To be honest I would never tell someone to buy one in that shape hahaha

[@rizkybiss]

Wow that one is weather trashed! I just picked one up with 178k miles here in California and the vin check said it was back east most of its life. Everything is still mint except the motor blew in first week. Loud knock...just got it back with a used motor with half the miles. It is interesting to drive...

[@probonomechanic]

Indeed, really interesting! Is it worth all the hype attached to the Hummer name?... Nah, but it is still pretty interesting to drive. The real con of that vehicle is not its gas consumption, its in the field of view. Those A-pillars are killers! May I ask what was the reason for the knocking sound? I remember that when the clutch fan quit on you it makes the same noise as knocking valves (Metalic clang/knock).

[@rizkybiss]

@@probonomechanic we assumed it was the bearings down below. It was a low knock. Oil pressure light came on and off and it stalled out a few times. It had 178k miles. I didnt want to pay for a tear down to find out. Found a motor with under 100k and put it in. Does your temp gauge hover above half way? Mine does and I heard its normal on them. Bad calibration....

[@probonomechanic]

Ya, I can't blame you. Sometimes it's better to just switch the whole thing for something more reliable. For the temperature gauge, mine was going from 1/4 to half depending on the weather. (summer or winter) I change the clutch fan, belt, and the pulley tensioner and now its always just below half. It depends on how long the engine stayed park. It wouldn't hurt to change it. Worst case scenario the thermostat is located on the driverside of the engine, but if it never really above the half you'll be fine. (Best test is the traffic jam lol)

[@rizkybiss]

@@probonomechanic my temp gauge always hovers above 1/2 and 3/4 mark. Never stays at 1/2 mark. I just put in a new radiator and thermostat. I found a bunch of threads regarding bad gauges and not being calibrated. So I thought I'd ask you.

[@probonomechanic]

​@@rizkybiss Hmm, interesting. I never knew about some faulty ones. It could be a few things: Bad heater core (could be clogged), tranny coolant, bad coolant liquid (was the whole thing flush or was the old coolant used?), new thermostat could be too hot! For the thermostat higher price doesn't mean better for your engine. Here is an exemple: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/hummer,2006,h3,3.5l+l5,1431872,cooling+system,thermostat,2200 The cheaper one is a 180F degree while the costly one is between 190F and 200F. So, maybe right now the new thermostat is a 190F type. If so, check to see if you can get a 180F thermostat, it will drop it 10 degree!!

[@bigsky445]

Very informative! New Subscriber! I am looking to buy the H3 after I finally find one I like, most are out of state. What year was the best year from 06-10? I want the adventure with 4:1 differential. Any advice on year & model extremely appreciated! God bless!

[@probonomechanic]

Hi, and Thanks, it was my first video! I did it after a guy ask me for info on the Hummer H3. And it was way easier than sending a text of a thousand words! Ok back on the subject: First, I would sincerely skip 2006 and 2007's 5 cylinders engine. The main reason is because of the valve problems and the resale value. (the 5 cylinders are fine in terms of strength, but it won't take a heavy load, just be aware of that. The 5 love his own weight and that is it. But I have one and I'm pretty happy....but I'm not planning on selling it.) Secondly, don't buy an H3 with a sunroof! The holes to drain the sunroof have a tendency to clog. The water will come in the chassis and it will go straight on your connectors and wires. (can make a beautiful fire and the insurance won't be happy!) - The side effects were as follows: randomly stall, misfire, transmission jerking, and complete shutoff! (The previous owner may not have clean his vehicle and dust over time have eventually clog the drains) Whatever you go from 2006 or 2010. A bad driver or a rough driver will break anything, even a hummer. Take it more like this. 1) Do I want to keep it or sell it: Sell = V8, because it's an easy and fast sale. Keep and just want a 4x4 = 5 inline, cheaper, get the vibe of constant 4x4 (may get tougher to resell). 2) Fuel consumption: The V8 and the 5 inline will consume pretty much the same. Average of 14-15 mpg. (5inline work harder for the weight, but the consumption of the V8 for idling is about the same.) -For this point, I would go as follow: Pulling a camper, trailer, mudding, etc= V8 For normal everyday driving = 5 cylinders 3) Comfort: they are the same, there isn't much difference between all the models besides the package for leather seats, DVD screens (remember they are over 10 years now at best hahaha, Pixels....pixels everywhere!). Leather and add-on= you like the bling (may cause more problem...more gadgets =more problems. Leather cracks over the year) No package = less bling ( cost a lot less, and your seat will turn out like mine in the video.) 4) Tire size Right now I'm on 32" tires. They do the job and they don't rub anywhere. I saw a few guys on 33" but then again think about the engine size. 33" tires and bigger = V8 engine lower than 33" = 5 inline I'll be honest, for me all cars have problems, the main thing is to find a car (or a year within the model you like) where the problems are acceptable for you. -I do my own work, and I don't own a trailer so I went for the cheaper Hummer and I enjoy it every day. I know I didn't specifically tell you which year was better, I have a rule of thumb to never buy a car on its first year of production. This is the year of the mistake, the second year can go better or worse. From there, you look at what happens. The H3 2006, had engine problems (because the 5 inline 3.5 and 3.7 were known for it), so I searched for mine with that idea that they are all broken, and the seller needs to convince me that his H3 is not or got repaired.

[@bigsky445]

@@probonomechanic wow! Thank you for taking the time out to share all that info! Greatly appreciated!!! I am looking into the 2010 Alpha with atleast 1 set of lockers.. I am going to have to have it shipped 2,000 miles to me, but I am hoping it will be worth it! Thank you soooooo much!!

[@probonomechanic]

@@bigsky445 2010 Alpha should be in the top tier of H3 and Cost a lot of money. If it's cheap careful. In Common Law, the rule of thumb is buyers beware (Sorry the J.D. in me kicked in haha). So if there is a problem with it, the presumption will be that you should have done better research. But if everything is fine with it and the seller answered truthfully to all your questions, you should be fine ;) The H3 Alpha is great looking! wish you the best with it!

[@bigsky445]

@@probonomechanic thank you for replying again! You're great! The 2010 alpha I wanted, sold! Before I could even make an offer. Might be for the best if purchasing a hummer I've never even drove or looked at & then paying $2k to have it shipped to my home & it turns out to be a junker or has lots of problems. I am in a bind because there are very few in my state or even 300 mile radius. There is one I am looking at now that is about 240 miles away that I could drive to personally check it out, only problem is it is a 2006, but it does have one rear locker, so pretty sure it is the 4:1 casr iron differential. It has 120k miles on it & only had one other previous owner (2 in total) all the years of 2008 & up are hundreds, if not thousand miles away. What would you do in my situation. Are all 2006 duds? What to really look for in 2006 for flaws or potential problems besides the valve problems.

[@probonomechanic]

@@bigsky445 Hey sorry for the delay, got busy haha The 2006 isn't as bad, the only thing it really depends on your driving style. If I were you and I wouldn't be shy, I would go try the 2006. Get the feel of it. See how it drives! Then wait to find a V8 model and go try it out. I'll never tell anyone to rush a buy or to buy on a heartbeat. There is plenty of vehicle for sale. And missing one vehicle isn't the end of the world. There will be plenty. If you can do this: find the H3 that is closer to you and go try it out. Don't go to buy, go to give it a try. See how it goes. And then check around to compare it to another H3. Once you have something to compare it with, you'll be more able to figure the best one among those available!

[@HorsepowerHouse]

Is it true that H3 do not have grease / lubrication points on the chassis? All sealed bearings / joints? Not good, if so. :(

[@probonomechanic]

Hi sorry for the delay. Well it really depends. I mostly buy new parts with grease nipples, so I can grease it myself. By now I would be surprised if the H3 has still stock parts. A lot of after market parts can solve that problem, if it is a problem. For the bearings they are all pressed.

[@robertmugabe2457]

Спасибо!

[@probonomechanic]

нет проблем!

[@hilladubai7276]

👌

[@chriStian72602325]

To which to 4x4 high or 4x4 low you need to be neutral you can’t be on drive or parked, thats why it switches back.

[@probonomechanic]

Hi Christian, thanks for your reply. I can confirm that I can switch from 4high to 4 low and the other way around while being in drive. It could be safer I guess to do it in neutral for the gear and fork, but the system was made to let you do it in drive. In this video the module was dead and later that year I decided to switch it for a new one. Edit: You can see this little video that I found on youtube showing the shifting while driving: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hp-kpGZ9eJ1sd5o I hope this helps you out. I would think that if the switch doesn't happen when driving could be a sign of something wrong with the module or the fork.

[@chriStian72602325]

@@probonomechanic I was watching 4 low modes video and he said it needs to be in netraul to be set 4 high to 4low, I'm just confuse that all. kzbin.info/www/bejne/f3msd3d_bJ6NY9E

[@probonomechanic]

Here is an owners manual for a 2007: schwarttzy.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Hummer-H3-Owners-Manual-1-4-1.pdf If you look at pages 111 -115, it explains the way to switch from each mode. Indeed when it explains that you need to be in neutral to shift in or out of the 4low. Awkwardly, it seems for me that at low speed I don't need to switch it to neutral to make the switch in or out of low. I spoke to another guy that just told me that on his 2008, he needed to be in neutral to shift to 4 high... I'll admit that I'm just as confused as you are. If I find more about it I'll let you know. But from what I see you are right!!!

[@shivamsharma7665]

And what about a 2008 hummer H3? is it reliable?????? Would it be a good purchase as a high school student?

[@probonomechanic]

What's the size of the engine and model? They are pretty reliable, but I need to warn you. The model with the sunroof (moonroof) got a bit of a problem. The drain holes get clogged by dirt, dust and other residues. The effect will be water dripping inside the hummer, and sometime it will drip inside the plastic molding and reach the connectors in the front passenger sides. I suggest making sure that it was either well clean or to do a CarProof (cost about 50$, and you will know every little detail of the registered history of the repair on it.) Is it 5 cylinders or v8? The v8 will keep a better resale value. (Been reading an article where they are starting to consider the Hummer H3 as the next classic car in 10 to 15 years.) If you are planning to do your own mechanic work, it is a great vehicle and easy to work on. Every H3 got a front bearing and A-arms quick wear and tear. But with a bit of shopping, you can get those cheap or buy better parts. Mine does about 350 km on one tank. So if you plan to drive a lot in town, it may consume a bit. But not to worry, it is pretty much the same mileage per gallon of a JEEP. (Some people may not agree with me haha) Did you check my whole video? Make sure to test the 4x4 switch by clicking the 4-low and 4-high. Make sure you don't smell gas around it. May show sign that the gas pump seal or hoses are getting bad. (If it doesn't you will be good). For the 5 cylinders, no worries. It drives great. You may not be able to pull anything too heavy, but for extreme weather, you will never miss school. Personally, I drove mine to go to university every day! This winter, we had really bad weathers, and I saw pickups getting stuck all over, and it felt as if I was on pavement. (It is worth getting a good set of tires. Right now it's on 33" tires, and it pulls it off no problems. If you have a question, don't hesitate!

[@chupacabbra5606]

@@probonomechanic 6 cyl. hummers don't exist. they are 5 or 8.

[@probonomechanic]

@@chupacabbra5606 no-no, there are 6 cyl....right between the v12 and the typos haha Didn't realize I wrote 6 lol thanks for saving the day!

[@DannyTingz]

@Pro Bono Mechanic I’m buying a 2006 Hummer with 160,000 mileages good or bad?

[@probonomechanic]

Hey Daniel, It's a really tricky question. Is it in miles or kilometers and are you good with mechanical work? Personally, I enjoy my Hummer 2006 but you saw they can have problems. With the 5 cylinders, it feels comfy at 120 km/h and I have 285/75R16 tires on it. No problems and no rubbing! The mileage could be a problem on some parts: 1) do a CarProof to see if the engine was rebuilt etc... (at least you will know the real mileage on it and if not it may have the problems with the valves), 2) look at the cv shaft to see if the seals are leaking or not (at the same time take a look at the boot of the shaft for any tear), 3) test the 4x4 by switching from low to high and lock. 4) look at the exhaust manifold, check to see if the studs are broken in the block (it would be missing the nut), 5) take a drive, it's a pretty solid vehicle on the road. If it feels wobbly there may be a problem. Never buy without trying and worst-case scenario there's other fish in the sea. Hope it helps!

[@emmanicholls1069]

I’m not sure if this helps, but I bought a 2006 h3 and it has a bit of rust to the frame as well as some rusting on the lines which isn’t great but it’s fixable. I needed to get a new rad and fix a gas line but it depends on the shape of the car and how the previous owner treated it. I’m no mechanic but depending on the rust you can grind it off with a wire brush and rust guard it if it’s not too bad

[@probonomechanic]

@@emmanicholls1069 Hi Emma, sorry I never saw your comment! I didn't get any notification of it, but you are right! As long it's not perforated the frame should be fixable with a bit of elbow grease!

[@jesusrosadocrespo1640]

Tengo un humor 2010 no me funcionan las señales traseras y el stop que debo hacer muchas gracias

[@probonomechanic]

Tengo algunas preguntas. ¿Revisaste los fusibles debajo del capó? Mire debajo del capó, hay una caja negra frente a la batería. Si abre esta caja, la tapa tiene información sobre qué fusibles hace qué. Comprueba si hay señales de giro y luces de freno. ¿Es este un Hummer con techo corredizo? Las tuberías para evacuar el agua pueden estar obstruidas. Tendrá que abrir el techo y limpiar los orificios de drenaje, así como las tuberías relacionadas. Tendrá que quitar los tubos detrás de los plásticos de los pilares A. -Compruebe si las alfombras del Hummer están mojadas o si hay señales de agua en los plásticos. ¡Buena suerte!

[@Bro-163]

Omg... i have 2007 h3 in russia... no rust....small spots on frame, clean body

[@probonomechanic]

That's really good, It's a fun vehicle to have! How much mileage do you have on yours?

[@Dixler683]

The engine head gaskets were not the problem. The heads had a design flaw , they cracked. GM warrantied the engines to 50,000 miles. They extended it to 65,000 to cover the defective heads. Mine went out at 68,000 miles and they said tough luck. It cost me $3500.00 to replace with a new head. 2007 purchased new. Still have it, runs great, no rust. The front wheel bearings failed at 107,000 miles. Only use TIMKEN, the rest are crap. The one you have….man ! It is trashed garbage. So many good examples to purchase, why did you buy it?

[@probonomechanic]

Thanks for the information! Well, when you look at a vehicle in its worst, you can see all the problems with them. It's over the top, but it's still giving you an idea on what is the wear and tear on it (in its worst haha). As for why I bought it, well, I was looking for a new project. The H3 caught my eye, and looked interesting to work with it. I actually loved working on it. Made a big difference over the classic cars. Of course there are some in better shape, but I wouldn't have bought one that didn't need a lot of care, I would have bought another project completly if it was the case. It's funny because the channel wouldn't exist if I wouldn't have bought it. A friend didn't know anything about cars and he kept dragging me all over the town to shop with him. So I made this video for him, since he kept asking me what I look for when I shop. I didn't really have a plan beside a quick overview to be honest. It's been what now, nearly 4 years, and the H3 is still my main vehicle. Beside a brake light bulb and a ignition coil. I didn't need to invest anything. Pretty happy with it. 320 000 kilometers (about 200 000 miles) and the thing still runs smooth!

[@probonomechanic]

Ohh and for the head problem, you are right. The seats for the valves were to thin at some places and made them crack! After a while a lot of owner started bringing them to me to work on them and it's there I found out the actual problem wasn't the gasket. The replacement head cost an arm and some even said its still not 100% safe, but for all those I did none came back...of yet anyways.

[@chrisdorris2002]

There is a website called www.carid.com has tons of hummer h3 parts cheaper than the gm dealer guarantee you that

[@probonomechanic]

True that! I use Rockauto.com, ebay.com, and local shops to get my stuff. I like RockAuto because of the customs duties. I order many different parts at the same time and they show how the parts are divided for shipping (with duties fee). So I can decide which part is getting me a better price with shipping over some individual parts from other stores. I never tried carid.com, but I'll check it out for sure!

[@earthstix6407]

Are these break light switches good? www.ebay.ca/itm/372644936786?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

[@probonomechanic]

@@earthstix6407 Hi, Sorry for the delay, for a random reason your message was classified as spam. There is 2 type of connectors. 2008 H3's weirdly seem to have a 3 terminals switch. But the standard that I always saw is the one that you showed me with 4 terminals. Did you check the connector on your hummer H3? And what year is it? So in short, if it's 4 terminals, the one that you showed me is fine!

[@user-cm9ft5bg7i]

It's not reliable it's slow and it rusts easily that's why you should of listen to momma And buy a Toyota I've seen 85 4runners with original engines still on the road

[@probonomechanic]

Hahaha, yes I approve! Toyota makes reliable cars. For the 4Runners, they rust around the quarter panels and same thing for the rockers (that is whatever the year). If I would compare, I would say the 22R from the 4Runner eat the 3.5 or 3.7 of the hummer. For the rusting, well it depends on how the owner took care of it. But I saw more solid H3 between 2006- 2010 than any 4th gen 4Runners. The quarters gets eaten up by rust compare to the hummer. For the rockers, they are pretty much the same: those plastic covers are a pain in my back. The newest gen of 4Runner is pretty weak. I would buy a 1981 4 Runner way before one of those weak 2018 4Runners. I'll admit something, I don't know much about the 4.7 from Toyota. Never had to work on any of them so, I guess we could say that they are better than the 5.3 from Chevy since I had to repair more. But I'm more a do it yourself and there is a "bip" load of 5.3 parts. On the long run, someone who does his own mechanic will pay less on the American brand (chevy, gm or whatever) compare to the import.

[@chupacabbra5606]

the rust depends on where the truck is. i have an 08 with not one tiny spec of rust. it is a southern vehicle. it weighs 5k lbs. it was not intended to go fast. mine gets up to 65 mph plenty fast enough. the big problems are the drivetrain parts. they fall apart at about 160k miles.. i have had mine since 2011.

[@horuslupercal3872]

@@chupacabbra5606 my 06 h3 has 240k miles and the only issue has been electrical, wipers stoped working, lights goin out etc

[@probonomechanic]

@@horuslupercal3872 honestly, a good maintenance on the H3 will make it last for years. Just need an owner that cares