CAN I SAVE MY £800 COPART VOLVO XC90? PART 4

[@NH00531]

This series has to run to a conclusion…..preferably an MOT pass. Then a road trip. 👍

[@danielbull6709]

Agreed, gotta make it happen!

[@darkdemon5741]

+1

[@alasdairmclaughlan8249]

+1

[@Globetrotter-1]

Part 10 of series 3: "How to do a bodge job on yet another MOT fail" 😂

[@j.b.9581]

I third (or is it fourth?) that statement!!!

[@lewis72]

A way to stop the ball joint bolt from spinning when tightening the nut is to lower the car and use a jack/axle stand to support some of the vehicle's weight on the arm. This forces the tapered region of the bolt into the arm and helps stop it from spinning.

[@alzdeane]

Or use the impact driver he has there....

[@robincook3367]

Hi Joel The balljoint nut is easy to do - you need a spanner on the nut, and there is an Allen key hole on the threaded shaft of the balljoint, use an Allen key to stop the joint from turning while you do the nut up. Great series, keep it up.

[@t3asolutions]

Definitely needs to have a proper final part to this series. Final MOT and fate of the car. Please don't leave us all hanging. That said, even if this is the end, what a totally enjoyable series this has been. I know this was a ton of work just from a video standpoint so thank you so much for your dedication to providing entertainment to all your viewers.

[@itsjoel]

Really appreciate the recognition! I’ll make sure to follow up with another video!

[@snoozer009]

As everyone has jumped onto the injector problem. Well I’ll jump onto the control arm. If you lower the ramps down far enough and put a trolley jack under the control arm it will then apply pressure to the ball joint cone. You will be able to tighten the nut up without any hassle. As for the ABS well a scanner won’t turn it off as their is a problem. Either sensor or abs ring. I don’t know much about the Volvos but the abs ring is either attached to a driveshaft or a wheel bearing. It would just be easier to buy the component with the abs ring on it. Anyway hoping to see the end result.

[@natureseyemusic]

For seized nuts I use Plusgas Formula A. It shifts things really well. I've also used coke on a couple of occasions and that works if stuck in a pinch.

[@MrBigMalT]

Loving your content Joel ❤. You’re an absolute natural in front of the camera. So refreshing to see a KZbinr filming themselves learning as they go, in a rented unit, rather than some self proclaimed expert in a lavish workshop,

[@budj7898]

Loving this series! That injector sounded like it was missing the copper washer though, these are typically one time use crush washers so get one ordered. As for abs it will need the sensor and the pickup wheel as the ring breaks and rubs through end of sensor

[@Stoney3K]

Nitpick here: The pipe you clip onto the top of the injector isn't the fuel rail, it's the injector fuel return. The high pressure supply is the pipe you screw on with the 15mm nut. Also, don't forget to take out the copper washer that forms the seal between the cylinder head and the injector, as the new injector should come with a replacement. The 'chuffing' you heard with the new injector could have been due to the bad seal still being in the head -- it's pretty easy to take out with a large Phillips head screwdriver. Even when an injector is not coded in VIDA it shouldn't be sounding like that, as that's usually a sign of a pressure leak.

[@alzdeane]

Needed the correct '2' injector and a new washer as a minimum. Ideally new retaining bolts and clamp, as they are supposed to be single-use.

[@tomaszmarcinkowski8242]

Joel, the 1 on the injector is it's class. Theoretically, you shouldn't mix classes but in practice one or two class 1's would work just fine in between class 2. What you should really have replaced in that case is injector sealing rings. most preferably, all 5 on all injectors. BTW, if the ABS light is persistently on, just a simple wipe of BCM codes wouldn't help.

[@davidnash8586]

For those of us who can't work out how to fit a new headlight bulb, we salute you !

[@ahatchett8607]

i'll say it again for good measure the ball joints and the drop links have a hex shape on the end of the bolt for you to put an allen key in and hold the bolt while you do up or undo the nut with a spanner not a socket as you need access to the allen hole....if its an undo job usually their to corroded to be of any use so just break off the back side so your left with the ball... grab that with a pair of vice grips and undo the nut...and hey presto.

[@sushi5734]

There are very few people who can do any kind of maintainable at all nowadays. As a kid my dad and mate’s dads would all carry out routine maintenance themselves. Doing any kind of work on your own car is a rollercoaster ride. There’s always a moment when you think B**ocks I’ve broken the car but then the sharp learning curve to rectify the problem and whatever I’ve broken in the process. I think my neighbours have gotten used to me with my car in bits on the kerb. Great videos and hope to see the XC90 on a road trip. I’d probably do a trip to Scotland or Wales sleeping in the car if it was mine.

[@ihuss007]

You’ve got us invested now! So you have to keep the series going till you sort all the advisories 😝

[@mikejennings7779]

To be honest he is putting himself at risk here, not knowing what you'd doing is dangerous as hell

[@gwynneharries7024]

@@mikejennings7779but he’s learning and he has said he’ll get it checked properly. All good home mechanics learn this way! First on your bicycle then your car then when you’re old and grey you leave it to the experts

[@mikejennings7779]

@gwynneharries7024 mmm, I agree to a point, but it had to be driven off to get to be checked. Fair play for having a go defo BUT the fundamentals need to be there first. Basic understanding of how the suspension works say would have said to put a jack under the bottom arm to tension the ball joint to tighten it using the force of the spring. The injector being swapped back to the old one, well clearly you could hear the chuffing of compression leaking by, why, because we didn't see a new copper washer or the old one out for that matter, it's great to have a go BUT know what to expect first.

[@1954307]

first things first josh, you should have not bought a new injector, the correct way ids to take out the old one making sure you remove the copper ring,totally clean out the bore make sure you get to the bottom and clean, if you wanted too you can clean the bottom with a 17mm piece of wooden dowl does a great job, totally clean the old injector making sure you remove the old ring ( get yourself some carburretta cleaner ) when all clean put back the old injector (by the looks of things you didnt need a new one) do not forget to put a new copper washer on it,and jobs a goodun.....now for the drop link you need a spanner and i think a 7mm allen key to unlock the d/link easy peassy if difficult heat it up still not comming grinder out the nut....we have had a volvo xc90 black r-design for quit a whilst now and the amount of jobs we have done on beauty you wouldnt believe, she drives like a new car....anyway keep up the good work and well done for trying we all had to have advice and learn...forgot abs ring find out what side is causing the problem pull out the drive shafy this gives you access to the ring dremel the old ring off or hacksaw heat up the new one place it on job done, but also before hand check the sensor is working...

[@m60kaf]

Impressed by your perserverance It's a good job you faffed a bit with the fuel line - stopped you getting 200bar of diesel in the face.possibly all you needed was an injector seal.

[@ineshegy8860]

Volvos are notorious for giving ABS light for just about anything you do without removing the battery first, something to do with different modules constantly communicating with each other(had a light go once in my father in laws XC70 just for removing radio,lol). Most of the time clearing errors in Vida will do the trick, so try it before replacing ABS rings.

[@julianbrown1331]

small tip - when fitting number plates with screws, drill from the back, not the front. You can accidentally separate the layers and it quickly looks awful once the dirt gets in

[@Globetrotter-1]

Quick Tip: Try to not drill ten holes to fit a number plate that only needs two.

[@KAWA369]

The injector should have a little copper sealing washer at the bottom this makes a seal with the hole it was going into this stops the injector blowing diesel back up the sides the seat around the hole should be cleaned with a special little tool that makes a nice mating surface for the new washer.Good effort on all your work for tips just look on KZbin for all kinds of car tips and tricks.

[@michaelg492]

Hi Joel. To properly fit an injector you must clean the injector seat, resurface it and fit a new copper "fire ring" or "crush washer". That's the "tsk tsk tsk" noise you were hearing. Coding is also recommended.

[@garethjudd5840]

Copper injector washer?

[@diydave3034]

Hi Joel, thanks for these videos, glad you’re continuing to make progress. I used to own a 57 plate XC90 and did many jobs on it. A few things I’d add: 1) the UK XC90 Volvo forum has loads of guidance 2) KZbin channel SiRobb might be worth a visit 3) that headlining - suggest you get another from a later car 4) the broken flip up cup holder - take it apart and take out the open/close mechanism, it’ll work fine manually. Hope that helps.

[@Subgunman]

You will need a front end alignment when replacing parts up front. Life is a learning experience. Pull the bulb to the ABS light but get it sorted by a pro.

[@TheMonkeypigs]

These videos on this Volvo is an example case of why of why amateurs shouldn’t be allowed to carry out their own work

[@deuce9769]

Fastest way to get the roll bar links off is to use a grinder, remove the dust boot (just destroy it), then grind flat against the mounting surface of the bracket on your absorber, then the remaining end of the joint, the side with the captive nut, falls off. Out with the old, in with the new.

[@terryroxburgh3276]

Was going to put just that, but thought I'd check the comments first!

[@minimeee04]

Always try a washer/seal on an injector before you buy a new one its rare for the injectors to fail and the washers are a couple of quid.

[@sebastienflo3882]

Drive shafts are sometimes glued. You need to install a screw and hammer it to brake the glue. You can reinstall it with grease and new bolt for xc90 with the integrated bushing

[@civicvtec92]

Having battled all these jobs previously on my XC90 buddy I feel your pain with the abs rings. I had to buy a new hub and driveshaft in the end. I tried to press the driveshaft out of the old hub but it took a 20 ton press, which bent the hub to get it out 😵 when (if) it finally comes out slather then end of the shaf in copper slip so next time it won't be seized in 👍👍👍 Also nearly all Volvo torque specs are 2 stage, torque then angle. The control arms will 100% creak / knock if you don't do the second stage of tightening 😵😱

[@alancobbin]

For a novice i think we can all agree Joel did extremely well indeed.I’ve learnt over the years pour a can of coke over a bad coked up injector leave it over night and the acid in the coke loosens the hard carbon deposits making it a little easier to remove,nice one Joel 👍😉💪

[@johnorchin8567]

Great content as usual. We must see this through until it passes the MOT. You can’t stop now!

[@patagualianmostly7437]

Hi Joel....Greetings from the other side of the world and the southern hemisphere. I have a 2009 Xc90 with the V8 Yamaha....which runs like a sewing machine.....No oil consumption or discoloration even. (188K Kms: Emissions 100% perfect.) The bodywork has its share of bumps, gouges, scrapes and scratches....which are sad, but normal for a car of this age here in this country. Yours, by comparison looks pretty pristine and very clean. Then we come to the undersides: Wow! Yours looks awful... It looks so much older than its actual years, due, no doubt to the harsh winters and the road gritting/salt you have there in the UK. Mine looks "a few years" old underneath..... no rust or rot certainly.....pretty good: Bushes, ball joints etc etc...all brilliant and original. Then we start with the roll call of problems! I bought it with a radiator leak: No problem. I bought a new rad and everything was fine for over a year. (Significant: See below.) But shortly afterwards.... it was involved with a shunt with a pick-up carrying a length of steel in the cargo bed..... This went through the grill, the condenser and the radiator and stopped just short of damaging the cylinder head. (And ...No, I was not the driver.) So: I replace all the damaged parts (DIY....Like you) The car goes back on the road and we think .....everything is great. But no..... In the accident, the oil for the gearbox became contaminated by the water in the radiator. (The gearbox Oil Cooler is located within the engine radiator coolant. 😮) So the Aisen Japanese Gearbox failed shortly afterwards....... The people who repaired the auto-box seemed to have done a good job..... at first. But it seems they did not support the drive shaft (prop shaft) to the rear wheels in that the centre bearing failed almost immediately...... I obtain a replacement online...being assured it is a perfect fit for my VIN: No it is not. Some Xc90's have prop shafts that can be split....most don't: It's a one piece unit. Guess which one I have? OK! No big deal....4WD or AWD (to be pedantic) is not a necessity for me and where I live;: I had the prop shaft removed. It ran great.....No problem. I was in love again with my Xc90....V8 Powered Volvo.....🥰😍🤩😘 Then...out of the blue: A message appears: "Major electrical Problem" (in Spanish) followed by the Battery Warning Light illuminating. A chap comes along and "Resets" the system..... The fault seems to be cleared, I drive the car and the Battery Light and warning messages stay off. Wow! Super. He says the Computer "lost its memory" and simply needed a reset. Mmm?* A day or two later when I next use the car: Back comes the Error Message and the Battery Warning light. after exactly 2 minutes....each and every time the car is started. Back to square one. Another expert arrives with a most impressive looking "computer"...... it displays many faults all related to the Alternator as the root cause. Now....with hindsight...here is my theory: When the gearbox was removed......was ...... 1) Strain put on the centre bearing "Rubber Mounted Bearing" of the prop shaft? I accept it may have been already worn .....but not "failed" as it was after the box repair. 2) In removing the gearbox, the engine must be tilted and supported..... Could the power steering lines have also been strained.... they are mostly steel tubes...... Could a leak have been created which dripped down over the Alternator....they pass that way overhead on the V8. Any Volvo Mechanics out there? What do you think? All I want is my lovely V8 Volvo back on the road...... I love the car, but these problems are driving me crazy. (p.s. *More Hindsight! Maybe I should have driven the car longer after the initial reset of the computer, in order for the Computer to re-learn its parameters?)

[@stephenloughrey8907]

Hi Joel, I am a Volvo owner, and a member of the Volvo owners club. Back in 2017 they ran a factory tour to Gent, which I found fascinating. They are currently looking into the possibility of a factory tour in Sweden next year. One suggestion I made was if any one had a ‘classic Volvo,’ we could combine it with a European drive to Sweden. (Rather than just fly)I know your xc90 isn’t a classic (just yet) but you made the suggestion if you could get the car sorted, you might want a drive to the Home of Volvo. Your thoughts please.

[@klmn2000]

This sounds like a great idea!

[@LostinWales]

The original rear plate holder has a clip that allows the plate to be removed at ease! Great if you use the car to tow

[@Simon78]

Loving this series! That ball joint was prob a slightly different thread to the new one… So using the old nut on new thread it just locked in place hence turning the threaded part.

[@Badgertronix]

Some tough jobs to get started on. Good on ya for having a crack

[@paultaylor9652]

Everyone has to start and learn at some point, I think you made it difficult by the choice of car with everything being big and heavy. Still a great video and looking forward to more of the same detailed work.

[@kattenfrederik618]

Hats off for your courage taking on these jobs!

[@mikerich8714]

I love how you show it like it rearley is keep going my son

[@Electronicsandsirens]

Would be very interested to see this series progress further, really good content! As for that injector chuffing, there is a copper sealing washer that sits around the tip of the injector and seals it against the cylinder head, these washers can deform over time and this leads to combustion gasses escaping by the seal washer and making its way up to the top of the engine (all that black tar-like substance). There is a possibility that the original injector is OK, but just needs a new copper sealing washer, and possibly a good cleaning up of the end of the injector bore

[@kennethcroll6972]

yes try a copper washer first :}

[@chrisbowditch6684]

I respect you for trying, that is the best way to learn car mechanics. Perseverance also pays when it comes to cars!

[@jovianr9498]

I want to see how this story ends, especially intrigued by the idea you have to code a fuel injector to get it to work.

[@maddercustom]

We have some lovely green lanes in Norfolk 👀

[@mishalchotai4721]

Love the Volvo content. It would be great to see this car on the road for many, many more years. It's better for the environment, recycling and repairing older cars. Please pls Joel. Keep this car and do the road trip to Sweden 🇸🇪

[@missogyny4921]

The ball joint threaded section normally has a hexagon socket in the end so you can use an Allen key to prevent it spinning while you tighten the nut most of the way with a ring spanner. You finally torque it up using a socket in the normal way.

[@gwynneharries7024]

Yes finish the journey MOT and road trip. I had an XC 90. It was probably the best car I’ve ever had for so many reasons. Now I’m thinking about the electric version when it finally arrives but it’s way too costly. You’ve got a good car there. Let’s see the journey please.

[@everydayrider5877]

Keep the XC90 content coming, love to see it pass the MOT then a road trip. Keep up the great work Joel.

[@sarahrobinson410]

Hi Joel, If you have learned new stuff this is great experience in life we never stop learning. Remembering back to early 2006 I bought a Volvo 440 GLE hatchback it was a lovely car and the MOT station failed it. And said it would be used in the local fire station It never failed on rust. It failed on turbo and Calipers. In them days I never had a computer of my own and I did briefly look at the parts a 2nd hand turbo £80 and Calipers I would say new around £40 per corner. Test my knowledge lol..(could be two Calipers to each corner). In my opinion you choose a well built car to test your knowledge and skills on. Don't quote me But id say Apprentice Mechanics learning there new trade would be given a car like humble Metro and taking off wheels and battery to doing head gasket or a brake service. Maybe your new idea with Copart cars is great idea, plenty of cars to chose from great income stream to build a business. 40% Of guys love cars be it valeting or restoration Some love cars but dislike getting there hands dirty and intimidating there purchase, like new number plates and tyres or its bodywork... I just bought a lovely Jaguar 4.0 V8 2001 LWB I really miss my old 2000 X registered one. Something about this car its presented as very clean car with minor jobs and some simple DIY to do improvements or is it..? Its been driven 127.000. I wish you well in getting the car MOT'D and hope you manage it well, This video serves a purpose over a garage bill being say £1000 pound repairs to a DIY home repair at far less A Volvo main dealer would buy Volvo New parts and apply high hourly rate /VAT/cost of parts, But most Know there are recycling centres that you can order a part at 50% cheaper and fit yourself. Most cars now have a computerised system and charge £40 just so the car and pc to recognise the parts. To give an example My twin top Astra has an issue people say that for my roof to work I have to use all 4 buttons on the unit press down hold for 5 seconds and do same on each window for it to work. The second hand unit works but the new battery which I installed myself doesn't want to fire into life It did when I first bought it but I have rarely used the car. And I thought I left the car with some fuel in it. Look forward to your next video..

[@thedude2556]

Whatever happens, you did it on ur own for the first time so be proud of yourself

[@WintonMc]

Great series Joel. Well done. Three suggestions for you:- 1. Clean/replace the copper washer under the fuel injector. That's very important. 2. There is a TV Show called 'Wheeler Dealers' presented by Mike Brewer, in which Ed China fixed all sorts of problems on all sorts of cars. Ed often used spring compressors when working on anything around (near to) the suspension parts. You may watching him useful. 3, A couple of times, when things have not been going too well, you forgot to record footage. Why not set up a second camera (even a phone) on an improvised mount if necessary, giving a wide shot of what you're doing the whole time. Then, if necessary, you can show clips or speeded up sequences from the second wide shot camera and voice over what you did on those pictures. All that said, this series is genuinely gripping. I can't wait for the next episode, and if you follow this to its proper conclusion, you'll have not only a great video series and a valuable learning experience, but also a mint Volvo. 😁 Keep up the good work

[@1012shotgun]

Gate Volvo videos good to see someone having a go and solving problems

[@AndrewNeilBaird]

you must use a new injector hold down kit , it will only work once , its a stretch oval bent washer that applies the correct compression to the injector to seal it , re-using an old one will leak 9 times out of 10. £28 of ebay or £25 of a volvo main dealer !!!

[@richardhunt1384]

Think the new injector was chuffing (couldn't hear properly on the audio)(possibly smoke coming from around the injector body) due to copper washer that sits between the injectior and block and forms a seal isn't new. If you refit your replacement injectior makes sure get a new washer (a car factors will be able to sell you new one specific for the Volvo) and you need to clean the seat in the block and remove any dirt and debris so that the new washer can sit flat. Once all back together tbis will stop the chuffing plus programming it the car will help with the running smoothly again. Good job well done, i can tell from experience the amount of frustration that happens when fixing/ working on cars and the relief you get when you overcome the obstacles!!!! Onwards and upwards in your learning knowledge!!!! 👍👍👍👏👏👏

[@tagy1234]

Is there a link for the workshop?

[@paulmussett94]

Your doing really well mate. Great learning curve! Not far off now. Keep going! Great content!

[@kennethcroll6972]

hi to make it easyer to stop the ball joint spinning, put the troll jack under the low arm and jack it a bit, this will jam the ball joint into the lower arm making it a bit easyer to screw the nut on.

[@Mrgbooth]

Vida isnt going to be able to replace the rings on drive shaft m8

[@scarletiv5683]

Keep the volvo series going mate. It's very interesting to see 'behind the scenes' so to speak, in this series. Love to see you do some sort of road trip in it too! 👍

[@vroomroom1]

Drop links need a ring spanner and a allen key to remove/fit. The allen key holds the head still allowing you to undo the nut.

[@lm68lancashire60]

Worth it to see the rear number plate fitment. Trust me, we’ve all been there in some situation….great entertainment Joel x

[@jonathansmith2407]

Joel, quick tip for you if you can't undo the nuts on the anti roll bar drop links sometimes you can just over tighten them and the shaft will snap off, or just gun them on off on off in quick succession and they'll often start to spin off

[@keithvers569]

Yes please film re fitting the injector and coding it to the ecu

[@markspeight5409]

Loving the Volvo XC90 videos. Good luck with the MOT. I've been driving for 34 years (32 years Volvos and 2 years Mercedes).

[@441stainesphil5]

Definitely want to see the conclusion to the Volvo saga Joel . Great viewing

[@klmn2000]

Great series! Need to see the MOT pass. Would love to see you drive it to Sverige. Hope you find a specialist who can give it a once over too.

[@markmoorhouse891]

Please continue with this project. It’s been so insightful and inspiring.

[@philipthomas571]

Good on you for doing the work yourself. It’s the only way to learn! Ps there’s a copper sealing washer on the bottom of the injector, you may get away with just cleaning up the old injector and the seat where the washer sits and just replace the washer with new. Would save any coding issues.

[@realvolvofreak]

Blow by is created because of the holding plate needs to be straighten out before you put it in the injector. as well you need a new copper washer there. However as I mentioned before. MOT fail was due to your intercooler has hole in it and air escapes there causing rich sooty exhaust gasses. Replace that and give it a blast and it will be fine. But it is good learning curve for you. This is the best school. To do things, fail, do again, succeed and move on. Keep up.

[@kellyeye7224]

You need to get your priorities right. The 'simple' tasks (headlights, number plates, injector etc) can be done on your own driveway (or the side of the road). The garage hire time should have been used solely for the items that necessitated the use of the lift. BTW, the ball joint has a hex key hole - for an allen key - to stop the threaded bit spinning when tightening. Finish it!

[@Stoney3K]

Even the injector swap is an easy roadside job. Garage ramp time is for undercarriage work (drivetrain, suspension, exhaust) only.

[@glen1555]

Feel he did not plan his 3 days. Prioritise those tasks that have to be done in the garage

[@johnelbro127]

Great series on the Volvo and sure you will get it all done. Love the honesty as well. Well done Joel. 👍👍👍👍

[@Paul-67]

Well done Joel. Please keep your xc90. You are so near now.

[@mikejennings7779]

Was there a new injector seal fitted? Not guna run a cylinder without any compression

[@larkehoe6716]

so the "wet" is blowby.. and when you started it the injectors were dry so thats what you heard, also you need an copper washer under the injector thats the chuffing sound.. its the gas escaping past the bottom of the injector, this if not fixed will cause carbon buildup...

[@andyarmstrong1493]

Injector removal King! You represent all of us amateurs, well done on working through the tricky bits.

[@adrianwalsh896]

Good man, well done, never give up, never give in. Katie and the viewers are proud of you....🙂

[@OcdetailingCardiff]

as muchg as youve struggled this has been by far the most fun series you've done - crack on mate - if youre the next matt armstrong can I have a job??

[@sjorsdw]

Yes enjoying and love to see you get it fully MOT ready. Curious if you can sort the injector too. Great to see all this.

[@wandajekeqa5608]

i would like to see more volvo content, you teaching some of us too. thanks man great job

[@Ballterra]

Hang in there mate. I can see you are a bit disheartened in this video… but just a bit longer and you will get there. Think time, energy and the funds you have put into the Volvo already mate you deserve a win 🥇👍 I have done the same thing kind when I was around your age I used to work on my cars all the time then… Lost my confidence (long story) and only just started again this year at 57 on a project car oh wow what a confidence boost when I completed something on my own.

[@johanaberg6528]

idle at 10:26, would say there is an air pressure leak from worn valve lifters. Sounds like a tug :)

[@FransvandenBergeMuziekschuur]

Keep at it on the Volvo. Because there are many XC90's out there that are in need of some love and most of us cannot afford the current garage bills.

[@mikebowers7161]

I have NEVER seen a blowing injector come out so easily!! Doing it yourself can be days of heartbreak and hiring special tools. Don’t expect another one in the future being that easy!!

[@paulfidler3710]

Using VIDA will take you down a rabbit hole showing you all sorts of faults on the car. But it is invaluable. My ABS faults were a trilogy: steering wheel angle sensor, yaw sensor and a couple of cables needed replacing. Fortunately, the XC Decided it didn’t like its rear crank seal one day and oil spewed forth. Off it went to the great junk yard in the sky. I’d have another in a second if it wasn’t was ULEZ!

[@mclaren122]

that was some good work you have done. PS. the injector...can be problematic...but you get it done I think.

[@DavidHallworth]

Kudos to you for having a go and getting stuck in yourself, Joel. Too many people borrow cars and video journeys in cars and it gets boring, this is a much more interesting watch. I started the same as you when I was 18 with a socket set and a Haynes manual to swap shock absorbers on my first car, a Peugeot 306. Last year I had the heads off my 4.2 SC L322 and I’ve just finished doing the timing chains on my 5.0 SC L322. Things will become easier the more you do and with KZbin these days you can learn a lot. Quick tip for your ball joint, if you look in the end of it there’s usually an Allen key or torx socket that you can use to stop it spinning whilst you tighten it up with a spanner. Once it’s nipped up you then switch back to a socket to torque it up. Shame you’re not closer to Glasgow or I’d offer you a helping hand.

[@Elmantukas]

Im not sure about volvo injectors, but im sure they have a copper seal on them. Abs light is on probs due to a bad bearing which has a ring in it, if vida says mechanical failure then its the ring. Easy job that.

[@berwhaletheavenger]

What is a 'lug nut?"

[@jellyuk2011]

did you change the injector seal (copper crush washer at bottom of injector hole)?? it will be the seal that has gone not the injector in 90 percent of cases when to top injector is getting wet. When you pulled the new injector back it defo look like it was still leaking.

[@jonasbjork6593]

Of course it's going to run rough at fist start up, the whole line is full of air, you need to purge that before it'll run good. On a diesel you normally bleed the air before starting ...

[@andrewnewton5893]

Personally I'd swapped injector seals not full injector and get brake cleaner that abs light needs scanning and will tell you which wheel to look at

[@renkemam]

Thank you, nice series. We need indeed the conclusion. Would like to see the MOT result. And did you manage to add the injector via the software.

[@TheFlyingBusman]

You never tighten lower arm pivot bolts until you have the vehicle sat on the ground or you will twist the rubber bushings and cause premature wear.

[@rnagle8287]

Definitely need to see the end of this story, whether good or bad! Hopefully a road trip is in the Volvo's future and not to the scrap yard!

[@jamesmacdonald3090]

Great to see a novice having a go! Bit concerned that I didn't see you remove or put in any injector seal? Most cars will run on default until the injector is coded, so you could have left the new one in? You should finally torque the suspension parts/lower control arm with the vehicle either on the ground or the suspension under load as the rubber bushes will be under greater strain and fail sooner due to over flexing.

[@Parknest]

Please don't give up on this XC90. These vehicles are pretty much bulletproof. You can change the ABS rings without having to remove the lower arm or the bottom ball joint. I think I said in a previous video that the fuel injectors have to be coded to the vehicle. You should be able to do this with VIDA. I've managed to work on my XC90 without VIDA.

[@welshdragon6947]

I’ve absolutely no interest in car mechanics but I’ve really enjoyed your videos! I’m gripped to find out what happens next with the Volvo 😀

[@ChristianThomasTring]

Great job so far! Make sure that garage is well ventilated if you are running the engine, to avoid any chance of Carbon monoxide build up!

[@ChristianThomasTring]

That place is just down the road from me, so will be a great place to do some Z4 related jobs too.

[@leeverink32]

a trick for the M.O.T is WD40 on the headlights it makes them look great.

[@bendocherty1129]

Would love to see how this panned out, this series has been great so far

[@derekgrayjr]

For the ABS light, could it be an ABS sensor and not the reluctor ring? Ideally it needs diagnostics plugging in as it could be anything....the module itself, ABS sensors, reluctor rings, other sensors (steering, yaw etc)

[@grippingyarnsuk]

Coding injectors would be a good thing to see . But I would say if your injector numbers are mixed up then it could account for rough running .

[@WidowUK]

I normally put a jack under the arm and put the weight of the car on it to make it grip so you can tighten it