Can you prime over 80Grit? Why you should refine your scratches!!

[@lonestarlows]

This was a good video and will hopefully save someone a big heartache on their first paint job. Personally I like epoxy over filler then urethane over epoxy.

[@GarageNoise]

Good video, I've always taught this, finish filler with 320 before primer. Not even a question. When you know you know and I've done this work too long not to know. Body work scatches drive me nuts.

[@rustyshacklefordspocketsqu8162]

when they say 80/180 it means 80 on bare steel, 180 on filler, paint, primer. the tooth left in the steel isnt as deep or big. i always did 120 on steel, 240 min on filler, paint, primer but usually softened with 320. no adhesion issues or sand scratch swelling yet and i fixed my moms car 6 years ago and 13 years ago on my grandfathers car. i used bondo brand bodyfill too. im licensed here in canada.

[@larryjameson7240]

That is why I get people like you do the job right!!👍

[@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD]

I learned the hard way Years ago and now Every step I leave the vehicle for 2 weeks so everything flashes and shrinks then move on to next step I.m not a body shop just a customize r flipper so I can afford the time

[@lowcountrylowdown9000]

yes sir the longer the better. The sikkens primer we use for collision work dries out pretty quick so it has minimal shrinkage, but its expensive. Thanks for watching!

[@jameschuke4104]

Good demonstration

[@JeanMelim]

excellent! thank you

[@johnjenson5738]

Good info thanks.

[@thistledewoutdoors3331]

It shrinks and swells even after you block it out with 320/buzz with 500 prior to sealer and paint...... I cant stand when the body guy rolls on primer over 40&80grit.... Break it down with a few swipes of 180 or 220 quick...

[@lowcountrylowdown9000]

yes sir just can't do that crap over 40/80..LOL

[@rongamble9884]

I'm just going to throw in my opinion from the 30 yrs I've been doing thus typically primer shrinks A because it's not of good quality or B the area in question has not been worked or prepared as flat as possible

[@thistledewoutdoors3331]

DA to cut the skin of the primer & block it out with 320.... DA over that with 400/500/600 for base prep...

[@jameschuke4104]

The scratches are still there i dont care how many times u cut n buff the scratches are still there before base is sprayed meaning they are still there if u put 200 coats of clear

[@snapfly7]

Most primers recommend sanding bare metal with 180 before priming, should bare metal be brought to 220?

[@lowcountrylowdown9000]

@@snapfly7 bare metal is an entirely different animal, this video was mainly for body repair areas and existing finishes.

[@Spiritof_76]

Don't some primer's tds (epoxy, for instance) say to prime over 80 grit on bare metal? Are you sanding with a finer grit for urethane primer?

[@lowcountrylowdown9000]

bare metal is a whole other ballgame, I guess I should have specified that. Yes 100% 80G for bare metal. I'm mainly referring to bodyfiller / existing finishes.

[@Spiritof_76]

@@lowcountrylowdown9000 It makes sense now. Thanks.

[@jameschuke4104]

So if you needed to take a pannel down to bare steel whats the procedure all the way to cut n buff

[@DWARSCO]

So what would you take it to before priming. 320??

[@lowcountrylowdown9000]

I like my final blocking to be 240, we will da over surrounding area with 320. Also not picking on speedokote, but we use a more expensive primer that doesn't shrink as much and is a lot faster curing. If I know i'm going to have to prime a second time I'll probably leave my final blocking with 180 and da over with 240. Or if I know i've got some time to wait i'll leave my blocking with 180 and still da over with 240.

[@thistledewoutdoors3331]

Standards of Practice is to at least do 180 minimum..... It literally takes seconds to go from 80 to 180 to 220 & you'll be able to use a 1.4 spray gun with 2 coats of primer vs a 2.0-3.0 tip & 3 coats.......

[@bradi5050]

I gotta say I could live with the 80 grit scratches it looks fine to me