Car Wiring 101

[@tombrewsaugh1399]

Just wondering why you switch the ground side? Most every circuit I have worked on both AC and DC switch the power side. I am a retired electrician and have worked on a number if cars. Completely rewiring 2.

[@TacoJoe]

Switching the hot side is preferred because if downstream wiring were to short the ground side, it could trigger the relay (you are right with your assessment). I chose to trigger ground side for simplicity because of my switch layout with the relays in the trunk and I could then feed them all the same power source from the key switch in one place. I suppose I could have fed a switch array via the key switch then sent it back to the trunk/etc. too. I will say, its HIGHLY likely that any large scale auto mfg would only allow switching the hot side of the relay for safety. Related- I'm in the midst of wiring an Edelbrock ProFlo 4 system in my Corvette and Edelbrock powers the ECU/system with a standard Bosch relay - interestingly though, they switch it from pin 85 as the hot source (should be 86 if wired "by the book"). I "think" I read somewhere that when you trigger off 85 you could potential reduce voltage spikes when the switch closes that could cause issues with an ECU, but usually you would attack something like that with zener diodes. This is PURELY speculation on my part though- it also could be a wiring mistake. What I'm getting at - I have NO idea why edebrock would feed 85 but I maybe the switch doesn't care which way current flows either- any ideas? Thanks for the great comment!

[@joehead1294]

@@TacoJoe Some relays have built-in fly-back diodes.

[@garrettjohnson3208]

@@TacoJoe q

[@catsandcarsringtailgang6188]

Most horn wires are ground switch.

[@hillcountrylivin]

Best demo of wiring a keyed relay I've ever seen. Thank you.

[@TacoJoe]

Thanks for watching and glad it was helpful!

[@bcbit01]

EXCELLENT video. A lot of work went into this folks to make it so easy to understand. If planned well and taken one circuit at a time....it really can be this simple. Thanks Joe.

[@jcsalinas323]

Dude, your work is as clean as your whip! Thank you

[@TacoJoe]

I appreciate that / thank you!

[@ozzyprod9332]

Just finished auto basic electrics in collage and I’m about to do the wiring for my 302 swapped for ranger, this video was the best thing I could find to put into perspective the project I’m about to do

[@TacoJoe]

glad it was helpful / Bosch relays are super cheap and super useful / do an Amazon search and you should be able to find 5-10packs for cheap. Thanks for the comment!

[@digimon916]

Awesome. Thanks for creating that panel to show how the relay and everything is wired.

[@christiancrain9106]

You saved me so much time and money on fixing my electrical issues on my Jeep by this short and very simple yet complicated video I wish I could pay you back in some way thank you so much 🙏

[@goldwolf0606]

He made it so easy yet I’m still lost 😕

[@sadboycali]

Honestly lol

[@shaykiernan1407]

Awhh me too 🤣🤣

[@Kihidokid]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/jWOwo2WQnNtkec0

[@Yve55]

🙋‍♀️Me2

[@reacew7624]

Rewatch ten times lol

[@vandettabuilds6641]

I just watched a few of your videos and I like them, I’m finishing my camaro build I took everything off this car except the glass and then threw everything away and started over. One important item I bought and am still using is a label maker. When it came to rewiring if I hadn’t had it I would have never finished Anyway I enjoy your videos. Thank you!!!!

[@TacoJoe]

Haha- yes, a label maker is definitely a good investment! Typically I've been using masking tape and a fine-point sharpie, but can see how useful a label maker would be- thanks for the comment and good luck with that Camaro!

[@SyracuseIsOranges]

If this is 101, I think I need 001

[@Olive-oilien]

One of the best explanations I’ve seen on wiring a relay. Subscribed!

[@empre.sario3394]

Im here taking notes & upon watching different videos this was the most helpful & for me it was the example wiring u did instead of drawing diagrams.. thanks

[@artilleryhill]

This is a masterclass in instructional videos. Thank you!

[@sochyvonnnora6035]

I might need to watch a few more times but this is really informative. Thank you.

[@ZootedSosa]

This is an absolute gold mine if a video thank you

[@GTRliffe]

GREAT VIDEO! simple and easy!! it’s what education should be!!

[@kain383]

Great job on the visual display.

[@fredtillman3050]

That's a big help in understanding those relays... I'm trying to turn a basic cargo van into a conversion van and power windows and door locks. Thanks

[@adhithyasodhi3203]

If I watch this maybe 100 times more, I might finally understand - something :)

[@andysmith7662]

Great video. About to wire a racecar so this was a great start of information.

[@MotoGPfan3987]

Such a great video. Super easy to see what’s happening with the small scale example.

[@TacoJoe]

Hey thanks Mike- glad you enjoyed it and I hope it helps you on your next project!

[@BjornFSE]

awesome Video, Very Simple to understand and really grasp the concept of a relays operation

[@TacoJoe]

Thanks for the comment / glad it was helpful for you :)

[@SleeperAccord]

“Except we’re going to tap in to the fuse box to power the loading side of the relay” and forward you lost me and I believe a few other people too. I was excited as you were answering all my questions up until this point. Why does the fuse have 2 power outs? When you overlaid the relay diagram and started calling out numerical names of the pins it really threw a curve ball to the learning process (“this pin/that pin”) would’ve kept it simple and visual only. Also the overlay sort of blocked out the last ground wire you added. Although the ground is super simple you should still emphasize it’s purpose. During the video I also had to keep reminding myself what a relay is and does. If it was explained (again) in the middle or after finishing the wiring at 4:10 it really would’ve put a learners mind back in line. Also the wires going out of frame adds another level of complexity because we have to “fill in the blank” of what’s going on out of frame. First time I watched the video I thought the fuse>load cable that goes out of frame was going to another fuse box or power source Before I realized it was just a single wire. Showing the battery in frame would cut the learner a break so they can focus the real unknowns. Furthermore it would help us understand why, how, and when 2 wires can come off the same connector. The fuse and the grounding point both look like it would cause a short to the untrained eye. I’m guessing by you powering the load and relay from the same fuse you were trying to suggest that it all fuses in a fuse box have the same power source. Maybe it’s not i don’t know I still have that question. After busting my head trying to comprehend whats going. I think I have it figured out now. Huge thanks to this visual you made for us! Truly a game changer and makes wiring less intimidating. I believe this content has huge potential. Thank you for your knowledge!

[@TacoJoe]

Lots of great points 2point2turbo - you could pull from the load side of relay too and only pull 1 wire from the fusebox / that's what nice about wiring is there are many different ways to achieve the same goals! As for the visuals - great feedback myman and something I can work into future videos (battery in frame / better diagrams / etc.) apologies if it was confusing and hope you were able to figure it out on your project. Speaking of which - I'm wiring up my C3 corvette (complete rewire) and maybe I can work in some of these clarifications in this future video- any additional topics you would like to see regarding wiring also? Thanks for the great comment/feedback!

[@PaulPJConnolly]

Wow, u explained that so well. Cheers!!

[@SaulHOU]

Clean Machine and Clean Arse Wiring!

[@jzbrynn]

That's pretty cool, I like to learn to build a circuit like that too.

[@bdtoel]

Great video. Thanks!

[@nomansland4811]

Very informative. Clarified a couple of things for me.

[@sgtarp8440]

nice video, i feel confident doing this myself now, thanks :)

[@rumblermotorco]

Are you able to share a wiring diagram for this? Beautiful work.

[@antialpha1018]

I'm glad I chose this video as a joke having to re wire my sb of a cobalt but hats off to u because I think I might have a bit more fun doing it

[@yikes_yeet]

Trying to learn as much about wiring as possible because I might rewire my whole 85 s10 for a drag car. I’m frustrated with all of the gremlins in it to the point I just want to take out every wire and start over

[@TacoJoe]

So here’s what I’ll tell you: you’ll have to do some more planning up front, but once you get rolling, everything will fall into place and then a hen you have an issue, it’s easy to troubleshoot / I say go for it!

[@adubbelde1]

Don't know what you decided on your Vette. I am putting a Gen V LT1 in my 37 Chev. I got an engine harness with a refreshed computer from Speartech. Harness laid out easily on the engine and just needed a constant 12v positive and a switched positive. One wire to the load side of the brake light switch will control the trans lockup. This is my first venture into modern engines and I was impressed when I hit the starter and it immediately fired.

[@Mountian-Zen]

Thanks for this video. Are you familiar with the Infinitybox 20 circuit wiring harness kit. While quite spendy, it seems this would certainly simplify the wiring for someone like myself that does not have quite the electrical skill level or experience do do the job from sq. one. The Infinity look like a nice system to me, your thoughts.

[@mdavis472000]

Another great video!! Thanks TacoJoe!!

[@TacoJoe]

Thanks mdavis- lets make sure we get some action shots/crusing content this summer with your MK2-the Cobra club / should be lots of fun

[@bhekiematsebulaboy609]

i understand so clearly wow thank you,my confident boosted

[@adamvillalobos7826]

Thanks for the video! It helped me understand a lot, but I’m still confused on one part. What is the purpose of the relay? Would it work the same without the relay if you’re using a switch (ignition)?

[@TacoJoe]

Hi Adam / great question - yes: you could just use an electric switch in place of the relay - the catch is you need to find heavy duty switches / need run large gauge wire in place of the relay. If you really boil down what i did in my wiring scheme: I ran a whole bunch of higher amperage accessories through 1 key switch to keep things clean/simple on the dash and allow me to lock out the car for security. I wouldn't have been able to do it without the relays - unless - I found a 30-40amp key switch and ran extra large gauge wire around the car/etc. Thanks for the comment!

[@Toadster88]

love the setup! the keyed access is a neat feature! what gauge wire did you use throughout your setup? all the same, or different AWG?

[@TacoJoe]

relay outputs I used 10 & 12 gauge (a little overkill) and triggered the relays with 14 awg. You can easily trigger with 16/18 awg though / I just had a lot of 14ga on hand. If you do some google searches, there are charts that classify typical DC voltage drop as critical (less than 3%) and non-critical (up to 10%) - then specify an AWG for a length XXX run. Big picture: most lighting (minus headlights) 14AWG is great / fans you likely need 10awg / each can draw 20-25amps if you have a high CFM dual setup / starter solenoid also can draw some serious current along with fuel pumps/ignition. Every car is different though so make sure you do your research but you are thinking about the right things (ie - size it accordingly too!) Thanks for the comment!

[@Dannerrrr]

Nice 101 lesson! Too bad I'm fuel injected, and upgrading to sequential ignition and injection, I think I need the more advanced class. (Current issue: How many amps do 8x near plug coils draw, so what fuse and relay should I use?)

[@InsomniacReviews]

I have a 65 Mustang Convert with Painless wiring kit. Ive installed my second RetroSound Radio (pretty easy - 12v constant, 12v Ignition, and Ground). The first radio the internal amp fried and would do a speaker pop when turning the radio on/off (I could see the speakers push out (pop) then push in (pop). New radio (same make/model) no pop. What can I do to make sure the radio is better protected? The car does have a fuse box and the radio has an in-line fuse but something happened to cause the first radio to get damaged. Any ideas or help is appreciated! MD

[@TacoJoe]

There is an always hot line from the stereo too (for memory functions / etc) - make sure there isn't a short there, its on a fused lead and double check the fuse size. I have an aftermarket radio in my C3 corvette and I think its only a 10A fuse / good luck and thanks for the comment

[@ericpushinsky7788]

Kewl , so you can put your fuse box and relays in a enclosure?

[@TacoJoe]

I"m not sure rules with enclosures, but under the hood, relays/fuses are generally enclosed in the engine compartment so it would seem a trunk enclosure passes muster? Are you familiar with rules w/DC for this? I suppose there could be increased fire risk with trapped heat from current draw. Thanks for the comment Eric-

[@thethinkingman9338]

if you could slow it down just a bit , it would be easier to follow. but appreciated it none the less.

[@tony7948]

Great video man

[@belfig]

Excellent video, but I used Painless Wiring and didn't think it was that expensive at all for the quality and ease of installation.

[@TacoJoe]

That's great / glad it worked for you - what kind of vehicle did you install it in?

[@MikeVieira]

Great video! Do you have a list of the fuse box and terminal blocks you used?

[@TacoJoe]

Hey Mike- I don't have a PN, but I'm CERTAIN you can find them on Amazon - they come in all different sizes so you can custom pick what you need. Good luck with your project!

[@MikeVieira]

@@TacoJoe ok thanks for the reply!

[@garynorman3637]

What terminal block manufacturer did you use Joe? My Mk IV is ordered and I'm most concerned about accomplishing the wiring. Your video was great. Thanks,!

[@TacoJoe]

Thanks for the comment Gary - I just got a 5 pack or 10 pack off amazon so I guess it wasn't brand specific - they are really really handy though - I've used them for trailer wiring / electronics wiring / etc - make sure you have a good crimp tool also to go with them for your connectors and good luck with your build!

[@markmcdowell5971]

Do you need to have one relay for everyone? Like one relay for headlights, one for wipers, one for dimmer, one for heater. And so on and so??? Asking because I have an old 84 d150 and I would like to rewire it all doing away with some things and adding others like power windows, locks.

[@TacoJoe]

There are ways you can wire multiple accessories to one relay, but you would still needed the separate switches with larger gauge wire / etc for the different acecssories. If you want to keep the wiring simple though, go with multiple relays. Amazon sells 5 packs of Bosch relays for $30 or so / I've seen some kits which even come with mounting plates/panels for them. Good luck with your project!

[@elcaminokid100]

Very nice and clean installetion. For the switched relays: did you connect all '86' together so they receive 12v after ignition switch is on?

[@TacoJoe]

Exactly- key only gives the array power (so you can lock-out) - Bosch relays are quite useful! Thanks for the comment-

[@Versatech17]

Im curius as to why you put relays there. I think it beats the purpose should itbe near the load?

[@TacoJoe]

Has mostly to do with the car configuration because the battery is in the trunk anyway - you are 100% correct / the goal of using a relay is to eliminate the need for high amperage switches and heavy gauge wire running everywhere - thus - when you wire your car with relays, you want to be strategic where you decide to put them. Speaking of which - I've been rewiring my Corvette and have a part 2 coming (if interested) where I incorporate a EFI ECU and all the associated electronics, including ECU control of Bosch relays. Stay tuned and thanks for the comment!

[@Versatech17]

@@TacoJoe Thanks for enlighting me! I'm excited for for the Corvete build

[@stefanokapetanakis4292]

Excellent video thank you

[@mrstratau6513]

nice example. Now for the engine management computer & fuel injection....

[@TacoJoe]

EFI is in the works / likely going to trial a proflo4 on my chevy 350 and see how it goes before I upgrade the cobra / might consider Holley sniper too- thanks for the comment!

[@BabyBoomersDoomer]

Do you have lecture 202❤

[@frekkledipped]

Im thinking of installing an electrical fan to my radiator in my 65 GTO. theres a vid here where he shows how to do it and he uses a relay and its temperature controled. You think I should also install a switch to it? It is switched like thisoff the ignition. Nice vid helped a bit

[@tomwelch5302]

I love your vids. I am building a MkIV (Complete Kit). I’d like to incorporate some of your wiring ideas into my car. The kit came with the wiring harness. I’d like to use a push button starter like you have done and have it secure. If I were to use the relays in addition to the existing harness, would I position them between the starter solenoid and the push button? Any recommendations?

[@TacoJoe]

Hi tom - sorry for not getting back to you sooner - you'll want the load side to the Bosch relay to trigger the starter solenoid and then you can lock it out too / that's how I did it anyway - you could probably trigger straight to the starter relay, but when it closes I think it can pull some amps so I played it safe and used a relay. If you can find a momentary switch rated for 10-15amps I think you could go direct. Good luck on your build!

[@RomanBiller]

What amperage do you use for DC breaker? Thx.

[@tochenasad5595]

I’m building a cobra need to know what application you use for the fuel tank from autozone

[@TacoJoe]

Its a fox tank (87-93 Ford Mustang)

[@tochenasad5595]

TacoJoe thanks

[@jameslangford4748]

I am learning with my 1st hot rod. I love CAR WIRING 101. But I also watched your corvette video with the fuse panel in the console. I was going to put my fuses behind the seats in my 1929 model A Tudor but now am considering between the seats ( like your corvette ). My battery is behind the passenger seat. Which location would you recommend ? Thank you.

[@TacoJoe]

there really is no right or wrong- I'd just weight the pros/cons. For instance, a pro may be easy access, but a con might be loosing space/cupholders/etc between the seats. If there are already access holes in the floor, that can be a pro too. Not super familiar with the underside of a model A - but - remember you may have a driveshaft passing nearby your wiring and if you can keep some of the wiring in the cab, the floors are a good natural barrier. Good luck with the project and ... Model As rule! (love em)

[@jameslangford4748]

@@TacoJoe Thank you TacoJoe. I loved the car wiring 101 video so much, I copied the box & layout (before installing) but I have room in the model 'A' between the seats & could run the wiring in a conduit along the tunnel in the cab. Hmm ? But that 101 box is just so tidy. At least you provided me with options. Thank you again. Thanks to you and those like you, I am learning (the right way).

[@awaale1000]

Thank you so much helped greatly appreciate it

[@jameslangford4748]

Above the fuse for the horn is a fuse for the Alternator (I think) but what else does the sticker say ? Thank you.

[@jairestrada6154]

Can u make another part to this I’m trying to wire up the interior on my 85 dodge pickup which is all the lights gauges etc. and I’m kinda stuck idk what wiring kit to get

[@TacoJoe]

Thanks for the comment Jair / I'll see what I can put together / for the interior lights / gauges, a relay is likely not required, but fusing becomes more important because a short could blow out gauges lighting and that's no fun to fix. Read up / search KZbin for more videos on the topic (Car wiring) and I'm sure you'll find your way

[@jairestrada6154]

@@TacoJoe thanks man means a lot i thought it would be simple but the kits I see with thousands of wires and colors make my brain go nuts haha

[@chrisking7213]

I noticed you put the switch on the ground side of the relay, I've always put on the positive side of the relay to trigger it. Not that I'm experienced at all but is there a reason to do one over the other ??

[@TacoJoe]

I think positive side is likely preferred because theoretically, the relay could short with age/damage/etc and power could then find a new ground on the load side/chassis/etc. and self trigger. I would have triggered on the positive side on my car build just like you, but the result would be double the wire run because my fusebox is in the trunk - ie - I'd have to run power from the fuse box in the back, up to the switch by the drivers seat, then back to the trunk to activate the relay. By feeding the hot into the relay, I can switch direct to chassis ground (and use half the wire). Now if I had the fusebox up front / under the hood / etc, I definitely would have triggered the relay just like you did (switch prior to the relay)- thanks for the comment!

[@raulmora654]

Great video. For a simple 70s ford truck (no computer and not fuel injection) what minimal amp circuit breaker do you recommend?

[@suntzu6122]

oOoO is that dash custom? Looks very clean. 5:10

[@TacoJoe]

thanks / glad you like it!

[@CentralBenefits]

Ptshhhh any advice at rewiring a Buick reatta 1991

[@TacoJoe]

not sure they make a harness for those / concepts should be the same though as in the video: Q: Does it have an ECU?

[@CentralBenefits]

Ugh unfortunately, haven’t had much luck finding anything about the Buick reatta or even what to wire, car even has 3 radiators. I believe one for coolant, then the other two for oil? Besides that it’s a unique little car, just don’t have the knowledge on it to get it up and running 😅

[@TacoJoe]

Don't give up / there's no set roadmap with any car restoration so good luck!

[@boblinda1738]

The guy doing my project vehicle auto electric had a major stroke a few weeks back and will not be around to finish what he started. Is there a forum, by chance, or other venue where I can find a qualified person to finish my electric? It's a pretty basic setup for a 1960 vintage Willys repower. I'm in north central Kentucky.

[@calebc6028]

Relays for head lights?

[@TacoJoe]

Yes - you can use a relay for the headlights too - I didn't use one with my setup, but if you do, make sure you feed pin 86/85 with a battery power source so you can turn the lights on/off with the car off. Thanks for the comment!

[@calebc6028]

@@TacoJoe Just finished my wiring and I used relays on every circuit, thanks, 01 jetta 12v vr6 66mm turbo.

[@commanderrandom1018]

This is so strange when I used the brown wire with the red wire I couldn't start my car? Help thank you

[@ShaneRogers-b1t]

I have a 1982 GMC 454 BIG BLOCK FLATBED DUALLY. NOTHING SPECIAL NO ECTRAS. HOW DO I DETERMINE WHAT SIZE WIRES TO USE ?

[@TacoJoe]

Are you replacing the original wiring or adding some new accessories/etc? Depending on amp draw, you'll want to make sure you have sufficient wire gauge to safely transmit the power.

[@ShaneRogers-b1t]

@@TacoJoe complete redo

[@ShaneRogers-b1t]

@TacoJoe replacing what's left of the old . Looks like the rats had their way with the truck. Fuel n break line's eight all to shit. Chicken lights gone . Dash trim gone .but I ain't skeerd

[@ShaneRogers-b1t]

I do want to add some work lights on the headache rack . This truck is going to be a welding rig truck.

[@TacoJoe]

you should be able to get away with 12-14ga on almost everything -except- your fuseable link-fusebox lead (usually 10ga on the older Chevys - sometimes comes off the starter solenoid) -but- check the chevy truck forums too for advise. As for replacement wire... check out wire barn / thats where I purchase most of my wire.... www.wirebarn.com / good luck!

[@Skin5aNdshaNnaGinS]

As he speaks in “latin”. I need it explained to me like I am a kindergartener.

[@Kihidokid]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/jWOwo2WQnNtkec0

[@rissonkoh540]

i like your video TacoJoe , recently i going to start my fiat 850 sport coupe , completely new wiring. i have the wiring diagram . i hope u can give me some idea with the wiring diagram.

[@colemorganracing]

"Some people think it's like reading Latin, but it's actually pretty simple." *Starts speaking Latin*

[@nitch4863]

I lowkey want to put a circuit together now

[@paoloinfante96]

No relay for lights?

[@TacoJoe]

You could definitely add a relay for lights / I didn't because I wanted the ability to turn them on without a key so I used a higher amperage toggle switch for the headlights -but- by all means, yes you could use a relay for the lights and do it in a way you wouldn't need key'ed power either. Thanks for the comment!

[@charlieswot8928]

nice video

[@powdere4donuts]

I have a question. I thought pin 87 was supposed to lead to one side of the fuse, and then the other side of the fuse would be wired to the object that needs load?

[@powdere4donuts]

In HP Academy it said pin 86 connects to the power supply aka ignition amplifier or known as Signal, 85 is the Ground, 87 is Load to fuse to object, 30 would go to the battery. Did i misunderstand something?

[@Nodnarb69]

Im new to wiring and stuff. Im installing 3 led kits all 12v. Gonna be using a 12 gauge wiring and hooking all of the kits to the single wiring into a 20 amp fuse tap. I did research and i shouldnt have to worry about my wire being too long right? Should I use a relay? Also cant i just connect all of my ground wire from my 3 led kits to the same ground wire or do they have to be separate for some reason?

[@TacoJoe]

hey @Nodnarb69 - are they LED spotlights? As for 12 gauge, you should be good -granted- you aren't running them 50ft away - there's a nice DC chart out there for marine wiring-sizing of gauge vs. distance (will add link). Going larger on gauge is always the safest path. You could trigger the LEDs with a heavy duty toggle switch too if you don't want to use a relay. Good luck with your project! images.app.goo.gl/KSeNEFkpxTgU4XyU7

[@Nodnarb69]

@@TacoJoe thanks for the reply man. No they're rgb lights for inside. Changed my whole approach. Two different kits, one of em is a starlight for the headliner and the other is an 18 in 1 led kit. I have two doors so in each of em will be subcontrol boxes that'll tap into the door power. While the main box will sit under the middle console and i'll run that to my fuse and tap it with the starlight box. Just gonna use 16 gauge as the amperage wont be more than 5. Just planning ahead i dont even have the car yet lol i just drove 2 hours yesterday to be told that the dealership didnt even have the car even though i spoke to them on the phone about it before driving over.

[@TacoJoe]

16 ga should be plenty big for those LEDs & sounds like a great project- good luck with the install!

[@Nodnarb69]

@@TacoJoe thanks man I appreciate the help it means a lot!

[@komranbehbehani6379]

Hey folks does anyone know a video out there for converting a head/pin out, from an older dash to a newer car I did a dash swap and need to convert a few wire mates/connections to make it fit. 👍🏼

[@cesar-nq7nz]

Thanks man!

[@katleomokotleng6181]

For me it was too fast I've watch it 5tims but i still miss tht part of how u conected the fuel relay part

[@gmangasco6700]

Thank you that was helpful

[@obsessedwithcars219]

thank you soooo much!

[@zagor1453]

Very smart guy

[@isaiahwhitney8168]

thank you so much

[@TacoJoe]

glad you liked it Isaiah / thank you

[@wearymicrobe]

Really dumb question. When you are powering the relay is it safe to just grab the 12v power you need off the keyed switch or do you need to go all the way back to the fuse box? Just wondering as I want to run multiple things off the switch like more then one light.

[@TacoJoe]

You can pull off the keyed switch for sure -but- make sure you know its rated for - ie - if the switch is rated for 1amp, you probably don't want to pull 20. Thats where the relays save you because the trip amperage is low so you can run a million of them through one switch if you want. Just to make sure i understand your question though: Are you talking about the power source for the load side of the relay (not trip side)? In all honesty, if you can find a 30-40amp keyed switch, you don't need a relay. Good luck with your project!

[@maysammirzakhalili4862]

Thank you 💖 ✌🏻🙏🏻👏🏻.

[@yuseefmattash]

Thanks for you

[@ronzacharias1674]

THANK YOU DOING GOOD VIDEO

[@louisDonlan]

What is your DC breaker rated at?

[@TacoJoe]

100 amps / I matched it to the fuse panel rating. When you pick a DC breaker, you likely want to match it to whatever you are feeding because if you oversize you might end up melting some plastic :) Thanks for the comment!

[@MRBACKHAND]

nice..

[@tessemontana3367]

We need more connection for wiring

[@SergDaKilla]

Nice nice

[@nicholaskunskas4383]

Working is easy I’m going to explain it so first off this is the fuse box. Pretty self explanatory

[@aussiejas6599]

SUBBED...!

[@maynorlopez1541]

DO GT40

[@todd5082]

Too short. I know u have more electronic hints and secrets to share than that. 👍

[@todd5082]

Too short. I know u have more electronic hints and secrets to share. 👍

[@Hohmies86]

I want to delete the climate control in my Eg hatch and have a 3 position switch for my fan, on and off for ac (don’t care about adjusting temp) and an on off for the heater.

[@TacoJoe]

It can be done and I think you can achieve the delete and still keep the functionality you want - you could break the circuit into 2 relays too for each function. I'd try a little trial/error on your workbench first but though / good luck!

[@pedrobisono747]

i need a even more simpler version :P

[@RikoRey92]

I'm so lost 🙃

[@Kihidokid]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/jWOwo2WQnNtkec0

[@eljayleveille3721]

Was doing good then right to Italian.. :(