Carter Log Mill on a 10" Benchtop Bandsaw (& some other DIY log milling approaches)

[@yurihuta8487]

Really enjoying your videos! Thanks for taking the time to make these informative and very clear.

[@jkmwoodworking]

Thanks so much!

[@Jo-wc2bw]

Great video. Can't wait to see what you'll make.

[@jkmwoodworking]

Thank you!

[@kshobbiest1729]

Liked your hack for long logs using thin straight edge to keep screweed on straight edge useable.

[@jkmwoodworking]

Thanks!

[@Ben-kg7fd]

I just picked up some small apple logs so your timing with this video is impeccable, great info thanks!

[@jkmwoodworking]

Thanks! Glad it was helpful!

[@damenlopez7928]

This was excellent! Thanks so much for sharing.

[@jkmwoodworking]

Thanks! Glad it was helpful!

[@WindRidgeWoodCrafts]

That's a great little mill. I picked up one a couple years ago and had a similar experience with critters on a couple boards. I have a few logs from a tree we had to take down earlier this month in our front yard that I'll be running through it in the next week or two.

[@jkmwoodworking]

Yes, it works great! Good luck with the logs from your pin oak tree!

[@WindRidgeWoodCrafts]

@@jkmwoodworking Thanks for checking 🙂

[@gordey4597]

Спасибо! Было очень интересно!

[@jkmwoodworking]

Thanks!

[@naglismockevicius3394]

2:18, is it me or cut surface if wiggly? is that because of tool limitations?

[@jkmwoodworking]

It is a bit wiggly. Probably just my lack of skill not keeping good pressure of the log against the fence to get a really straight cut. Also, my bandsaw is really small.. if youhad a larger bandsaw with a wider fence it would be a bit easier to keep it straight.

[@BlackmerStudios]

Great example of using a smaller 10” bandsaw. What size blade did you use?

[@jkmwoodworking]

Thanks! I used a 1/2" blade, 4 TPI. I'll add a link to the blade I used in the description.

[@mikedurkee7296]

Was wondering if you had made the video about heating up the wood to kill the bugs. I'm at a loss as how I would go about doing it.

[@jkmwoodworking]

Yes, here is the link to that video... kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJCYk4Btg6uEa5I

[@eitantal726]

You seal the ends to prevent cracking. Will the wood still dry, though? Can a wood dry without forming cracks? Wood drying is effectively loss of material, and that's why the cracks form. You still want the material to go away, what will happen to the negative space?

[@jkmwoodworking]

The idea is to have the wood dry at a consistent and uniform pace. If the end grain is left unsealed, then the ends will dry out at a much faster pace, which causes the cracking/checking. With the ends sealed, then the entire length of the board dries at a consistent pace. the wood will still dry.

[@eitantal726]

@@jkmwoodworking where does the negative space go, though? the wood becomes slightly thinner?

[@johnhubbard6262]

think about what you said - negative space, actually just the wood cells - doesn't go anywhere - it just shrinks or contracts. @@eitantal726

[@garyp1930]

what kind of paint can u use for end sealer

[@jkmwoodworking]

I just use leftover latex paint from painting some walls on my house, either interior or exterior. The guys who do this often say they just go buy the returns from home depot, whatever is available. Also note that some use a wax to seal the ends with instead of paint. I'm not sure if one is better than the other.

[@garyp1930]

@@jkmwoodworking Perfect! Thank u good man

[@henryhatfield74]

A commercial sealer is called anchor seal .

[@M5tworude]

I don't understand what the risk is regarding cutting the pistachio, can you explain?

[@jkmwoodworking]

It was infested with termites, and I didn't want them to spread into the other wood in my wood shop.