Never buy a TOYOTA with these issues according to the 20+ years of CAR WIZARD mechanic experience!

[@LV4TD101]

The biggest issue with Toyota's are the previous owners. A lot of owners think "It's a Toyota, I can change the oil when ever I feel like it" or "Its a Toyota it's so good that it doesn't need any maintenance done to it at all". There are a few Toyota engines that if you don't change the oil every 5k by the time it hits 100k miles it starts burning 1qt every 1000 miles and will need an engine rebuild.

[@87teggy]

That's half right. Deferred maintenance harm all vehicles but it seems like Toyota handle them a lot better. Imagine deferring maintenance on a BMW or Mercedes, those would be a basket case in 5 years tops.

[@anthonyrobbins8647]

Most newer Toyotas hybrids recommend oil changes every 10k miles. I have 2012 Prius C with 320,000 miles and have always followed that. Their 5k maintenance light is not oil changes. They want you to come in for tire rotations every 5k. But nothing wrong with doing it more often either way

[@fubartotale3389]

Same with Subaru, they're more maintenence sensitive than Toyotas with the boxer engine and many people ignore them and them blame the car.

[@TheKillertoma11]

And THAT is why I stay away from cheap civics/corollas etc "Has 300,000km on it and burns 1L of oil every 1500km but will last forever" no, not really . It's gonna need all kinds of work to push further than that because of your severe neglect. Just because it's a Honda, Toyota etc. Doesn't mean it doesn't need maintenance. Lol

[@arewestilldoingphrasing6490]

Agree. Been used car shopping and mofos dont maintain their cars and still want a high amount bc its a toyota or lexus and "they last forever" *with maintenance.

[@Mrpancake72]

One small thing. When you turn the ignition, or press the push to start quickly you should see all the dash lights turn on, including the check engine light. If it didn't turn on at the start it has been tampered with.

[@questioner1596]

Either tampered with or on so long the bulb burned out 😂. Not good either way. I came here to say this, but you posted first so you got a like instead!

[@somersetbassett4580]

That's a good call. Thanks

[@DylanL69]

Not always could be the pcm is not communicating

[@debbieramsey8933]

Oh-thanks!

[@ronniedrake8196]

2006 Toyota avalon. Worst car I ever had. Problems that couldn't be fixed or found. Various electrical battery. Alternator fuse box problems. Non stop. A curse. Lost. Thousands trying to fix. Financed for four years. Plus trying to keep it going. Big time loss

[@wheninrome42]

1. frame rust 2. timing belt 3. lower ball joints

[@fubartotale3389]

Stripped out head bolts, a huge job and requires a skilled mechanic to perform.

[@wyattgardner3552]

If the frame rusted away, the body is rotten too. Same with fuel lines, brake lines, ect. First gen Tundras too, not just tacoma

[@enjoyingend1939]

​@Jimmy Two Times because Toyotas are regular cars too and they blow head gaskets too. Toyotas aren't more or less bulletproof than other brands except for GM and ford ecobooms

[@skoparweaver7692]

@@enjoyingend1939 I don't see many other cars or trucks with the mileage that tacomas, ls400, camry etc have been able to rack up. Many of them are pushing 300, 400, 500k miles. I've never seen a frontier or ram with that much mileage.

[@rexultimus1422]

that’s any car tbh

[@adotintheshark4848]

Also, when you turn the key to the first position (ignition on) make sure the warning lights all light up, especially the check engine light. If it doesn't light then it doesn't work-someone has disabled it because the engine is throwing codes...which brings me to another suggestion. Bring a code reader and know how to use it.

[@rodneyboyd515]

Good 👉 point

[@rolandthethompsongunner64]

How do you disable the check engine light without disabling the cars ECU ?

[@adotintheshark4848]

@@rolandthethompsongunner64 put tape over it after opening the cluster. Crooked dealers do it all the time.

[@rolandthethompsongunner64]

@@adotintheshark4848 So you wouldn’t notice the tape?

[@adotintheshark4848]

@@rolandthethompsongunner64 no, because the tape is applied behind the applique..they take the cluster apart first which is easy to do, in case you have to change bulbs/lamps. I used to repair these, it's amazing the shit some dealers(used car usually) will do to the cluster. I've even seen silicone slathered all over the warning lamps.

[@shacur145]

This was the BEST video of used car buying checklists I have ever seen!! Wow!!! I’ve been married 25 years and my husband has bought at least 4 used cars early in our marriage that ended up being pure trash!!! I finally had to take over test driving and checking the cars out because he did not have my attention to detail. But this was a whole new level of detail to look for!!! I will be a BEAST looking for my next used car(Toyota or Honda)!!!😂 Thank You Car Wizard!!!!!

[@87teggy]

Wizard didn't mention any specific Toyota to avoid buying. These points apply to all used cars if you're shopping for one.

[@atx-cvpi_99]

But the Car Care Nut did. He said avoid 98-02 Toyota Corollas, 07-09 Camrys with the 2AZ-FE, 06-08 RAV4s with the 2AZ-FE, and the 2016 Tacomas to name a few. The only exception for a 2AZ-FE is that it has to have documentation that the engine has been rebuilt with upgraded OEM Toyota pistons and pistons oil squirters or replaced with a OEM Toyota short block. After replacement, use 5w30 instead of 5w20.

[@87teggy]

@@atx-cvpi_99 2016 Tacoma makes sense. First year of the current gen Tacoma with all the bugs that haven't been worked out yet.

[@md2k8]

​@@atx-cvpi_99 Agreed 💯

[@mikenormandy9250]

@@atx-cvpi_99 first year of any new make or model, esp with a new engine model - you always have to watch out for.

[@atx-cvpi_99]

@@mikenormandy9250 Some launches were successful while others were not.

[@vinr6867]

Other tips: 1. Always do a cold start. 2. If it looks a little off in the pictures it will look worse in person. 3. Take a magnet to look for bondo on the body. 4. Sign of a responsible owner is having all original keys with the original spare and the handbook. Always look at the carfax for regular oil changes.

[@billthepainter5106]

Not all shops report to Carfax. Also, if someone does their own oil changes, they won't show either. But it's always a plus when they are listed!

[@Fireball-cf3xn]

😊

[@Fireball-cf3xn]

😊

[@Fireball-cf3xn]

😊

[@ootmaster1]

those are pretty good tips. I figured bondo would be less of an issue, mostly because if its a shoddy sh*t job, youll see it in the panel and the paint. but i mean magnet for bondo check is pretty solid didnt even think of it

[@boogitybear2283]

The 1990-2006 Lexus LS400 and LS430 have interference engine timing belts. If you’re looking at those cars, make sure the timing belt job was recently done as it’s over $1000 to have it done at a shop.

[@atx-cvpi_99]

The non VVTi engines are not interference engines. The VVTi engines are interference including the 3MZ, 2JZ, 3UZ, 2UZ, and 1UZ.

[@crsp76691]

90-94 was a non interference engine. That came a few years after that model came out

[@jptech57]

I thought it was either 98 and later or 95 and later, although I've heard differing answers.

[@ThatManitobaGuy]

@@atx-cvpi_99 The 3MZ is listed as interference however it isn't.

[@NoFilter93]

The 1989-1995 is non interference engine.

[@wesfields9322]

Thank you for keeping this lists series alive. My favorite thing is just hearing car wizard sit down and talk.

[@redneckdave1968]

Car Wizard I'm glad I found your channel on KZbin. I first heard of you watching Car Issues with Tyler Hoover on Motor Trend channel. I love the way you explain things in a way that anyone can understand. I have 38 years of automotive experience working in different fields from being a mechanic to selling auto parts. I'm retired working part time at a big chain auto parts store. I find your videos informative and I can pass on what I'm learning to my customers. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@9696scott]

I just stopped by your shop and purchased a kids shirt. Everyone had a great attitude and big smiles all around.

[@Barbarapape]

In my experiece when checking over a used car , the most important point is to take another person with you that knows what to look for, hopefully they will find the major issues that you will miss when your mind is elsewhere. I have helped a lot of my friends over the years and almost everytime they are looking for small scratches and miss the important parts such as a full service history, but when you check the oil it is like treacle and only just on the tip of the dipstick. Toyota's are like any car, they need regular servicing for them to last, a neglected car is no good to anyone.

[@jodan2985]

Yes, first point is key. A lot of Lexus + Toyota products have dash/leather issues. If you see one you're trying to buy and has had a previous recall, it's worth asking if the owner has the papers/proofs it was done!

[@cesariojpn]

To add to this, there are online search engines where you can type in the VIN and find out if the car has any outstanding recalls.

[@hamsterbrigade]

This is only during a specific period. Apparently some dash material manufacturers were using a bad batch of ?rubber? Leads to a lot of sticky dash issues, had that issue with my IS-F(Lexus replaced the dash for free) and my friend has that issue with her BMW. He's right to look out for it, it's was like 2k to replace the dash if I paid to have it replaced out of pocket.

[@nordicpride9708]

Better than some American turd like a Chrysler or countless other examples that break down constantly and have much bigger issues (ie electrical, drivetrain). Always shake my head at the morons that drive those cars. I refuse to work on them in fact. Liability city. No thanks!

[@The2Coolest2]

Yep. My 07 ES the dash completely melts. Tried sticky dash kit which is used across multiple manufacturerswith the issues of melting but isn't lasting. Needs a replace or dash cover. Not the only plastic or rubbers suffering. The steering wheel buttons rubber melting, trunk button on the trunk door completely melts in heat and hardens to a rock where you cant push it in the cold.

[@nordicpride9708]

@@The2Coolest2 True but atleast it’s not a domestic hunk of junk that has major components failing left & right. I’ll take a melted dash over melted lifters lol

[@tommyhawks856]

I would add one more thing to check under Tip# 4. Take a scan tool with you. There may not be any "lights" on, but it could be because the codes were recently erased. A descent scan tool will tell you which systems have not yet completed their drive cycle. I always ask if they mind if I connect my scan tool before I do so. If they tell me no, then it is on to the next car.

[@georgebettiol8338]

If the buyer was a trained mechanic equipped with a name brand scan tool (e.g. Snap-on) then i would have no reservations of allowing it to be connected to the vehicle. However, 'average non-vehicle trained Joe or Sue' with a generic scan tool - the answer would be NO.

[@tommyhawks856]

@@georgebettiol8338 A simple, non bi-directional code reader is just that. It is a reader. It is capable of erasing codes, but it cannot change much of anything else. I, personally, have the XTool D8 and it is bi-directional. I would consider that tool, in the wrong hands, potentially more dangerous than a simple code reader. I also have an Innova 3160G that greatly lacks the features of the XTool D8 and I use the Innova when taking a cursory look at the state of the vehicle. I have yet to have anyone to tell me "no" when I am using that scan tool to check the status of the vehicle.

[@brokenalgorithm]

@@georgebettiol8338 my 20$ scanner does the same thing I need it to do in half the time ,

[@uppatdawn9763]

@@georgebettiol8338 why?

[@saucemasterx911]

@@georgebettiol8338I would lol in your face call you a clown and drive off giving you the finger

[@Shododaan]

I'm looking at purchasing a used Lexus LS460 and I had about half of this written down from what I've read here and there. Thank you for giving me an F and then everything I need to get an A+. This is much appreciated.

[@Mabeylater293]

Get a 2011+ 2007-2009 had some bugs to work out

[@michaelnash2972]

Be careful with the LS460. Control arms are issues and can very quickly reach $10k. The valley plate seals are also a problem and can leak coolant. Look at The Car Care Nut Channel and he goes over all of the issues that the LS460 is prone too. Make sure you get an AWD one too.

[@JasPlun]

I try hard not to brand bash because I do know they have all had their good designs and bad designs. The difference I have found in Toyota is way better. I have had less problems with my Toyotas and I have seen Toyota stand behind their products when an issue does happen which is few. Toyota took care of the owners of the Tacoma trucks that had rusting frame issues. They extended warranties and replaced the frames. Not just that, but they learned the cause and fixed it. Same with the Toyota Camries that had the oil consumption issues due to Toyota trying out a new ring design supposed to be better, but had a flaw that caused them to freeze up causing oil consumption. They replaced the rings for free and extended the warranties on those models. I rarely see Ford or GM do this and that is why I stopped buying their stuff. If GM would acknowledge a design problem and stand behind it for their customers then I might still buy from them. They and Ford have had a lot of early engine failures that have been identified as design flaws yet they do nothing for the customer. I am 100% loyal to Toyota because they earned that loyalty by their actions.

[@pslobodnik]

I've owned toyotas my whole life. From my experience, the 4-cylinder engines tend to burn oil after 200k miles. I've heard they have supposedly fixed this in newer engines (but with mixed success) but I've had the problem in more than one carollo and camry. Granted, other manufacturers would consider 200k miles a success, but I hold Toyotas to a hire standard. I only buy v6's or 8's now and I've never had a single problem with them. I've also NEVER had AC problems or transmission problems in a Toyota. For whatever reason, Toyota mastered those systems like no other car company.

[@Derek8487]

03 corolla, 258k, no oil burning or its so miniscule its not noticeable on the dip stick. Lots of oil changes its whole life.

[@aygwm]

Almost all engines wear out their valve guides and seals by 200k. You’re asking a lot…

[@Jac735]

​@aarong.1075 what I saying and buy thsn if you do proper maintenance you will be fine my Honda lasted 376,591 before. Sold it and it still drives

[@JukeboxAlley]

212k miles on a 1zz-fe and no oil consumption, no leaks period, except a very small leak before of the gearbox and was just $20 axle shaft seals.

[@Daniel_Colavecchio]

2010 Prius burns oil like a two stroke. Started around 100k and is an know problem, so no excuses of poor maintenance.

[@dennisnichols2411]

I remember looking at a 3rd gen 4Runner. Everything looked nice, everything worked. I went back after the lot closed and got under the car. I saw a spot on the frame of surface rust and reflexively scratched it. My finger went right through... Lesson learned.

[@dabronxguru1824]

That was private property buddy🤔you can’t do that! 😂

[@ltwig476]

There is a saying "Never purchase a used vehicle north of the Mason Dixion line." They can also be ate up by sea salt on the coast. This spring I purchased a 93 Chev 1500 with no rust in Indianapolis. The truck was kept in a garage and not used much. Love me some 4Runners, great vehicles!

[@rjmaas]

One thing that I believe was not mentioned by Car Wizard is to do a hard emergency stop on a quiet road as part of the test drive. Preferably somewhere downhill. I had one Highlander which turned on the check engine light after doing this. Guess what, I was not interested anymore in buying. Good advise. Learned a few things :-)

[@Funkydood]

Two patterns I’ve been noticing for the last, say, ten-twelve years: 1. Some Japanese car manufacturers starting to get lax in their quality control. 2. KIA and Hyundai are tightening their quality control. Only time will tell if I’m right or wrong .

[@interstate80.]

You are correct. I didn’t think we’d ever see the day where those two brands even had a shot at coming for Toyota or honda

[@bend8353]

LOL, KIA Hynundai are terrible. Not even to mention the theft and insurance cost. Parts are crazy expensive for a cheap car too. ANd they do not honor the factory warranty ever

[@jfundora8583]

Stay away from Kia and Hyundai. My cousin's 2022 Kia Forte just had to have a transmission rebuilt at 80,000 miles. For a car that spends a lot of time on the freeway this shouldn't have happened.

[@RedneckJesus513]

nope, Hyundai/Kia are oil burning turds. Honda def isn't what they used to be. Toyota is still pretty damned good, though.

[@RedneckJesus513]

@@bend8353 lots of oil consumption issues, too

[@colchronic]

What's funny is the original 2GR engines had a metal filter housing and then they switched to plastic and then switched back to metal once they realized that plastic is plastic

[@theundergroundlairofthesqu9261]

The rest of the auto industry charged forward, pretending plastic wasn't plastic.

[@bilboswaggens2975]

@@theundergroundlairofthesqu9261 its not plastic it’s “reinforced polymer” 😂

[@czechmate6916]

@@bilboswaggens2975 Yep I’ve heard that one before 🤣

[@MarzNet256]

This is how they keep busy.

[@burtoncrowell4371]

I'll make them walk home if they don't shut their ass up LOL

[@_brushie]

So far I've found the high end weather resistant floor mats for my cars at salvage yards. I'm not one to really option up a car, but those tough mats to me is what luxury truly is.

[@kenik2023]

Thank you wizard for informing people that Toyota is not indestructible. While I was working there I had tons of people who would neglect timing belts, even oil changes. Maintenance is the key to any car being dependable imo. Listening, looking, smelling and being used to how your car sounds, smells, feels etc. I used to encourage customers to name their cars so they'd actually pay attention to them. Recently helped a customer with her "lifetime" Hyundai transmission and saved her tons reflashing her module. (Shifting issues)

[@brandonstclair6530]

5 years ago I bought a double cab Toyota Tundra for $6800 with low miles but it had a broken taillight, cracked windshield, some minor scratches, and the timing belt service was due. I still got a great deal and I still have the truck. It is completely rust free despite being a 2006, however this truck has never seen a salted road in its life.

[@naturegirl5681]

I bought one too and love it! 305,000 and runs like a top.

[@billroubanis4750]

Only issue with Toyotas is previous owners. Have had over 60 cars, and the 5 best ones were the 5 Toyotas I have owned. I bought a 2001 Corolla with 270k miles on it 5 years ago, and I checked nothing. I just knew the previous owner always changes his oil. He told me the car burned lots of oil, and he thought it would need an engine soon. The car now has 375k miles, same engine. Still burns oil. Still runs fantastic and still passes the California smog check. I have changed only an alternator, some door handles, and oil, tires, and brake pads. In 105 k miles of driving, on a car that already had 270k. Still on its second Aisin clutch, put in by the previous owner at 240k miles!!!! (it is a stick). One of the secrets: anything you replace, better to buy a used Toyota part, than a new aftermarket part.

[@gertstolk]

I drive a 2001 Camry 2.2 LE with 104,000 miles. It got a new timing belt and full service today and I call it my forever car ❤😅

[@warrengauthier4699]

That motor is indestructible with basic maintenance.

[@muziklvr7776]

Got over 300,000 on my '01 Camry with the 5SFE engine. Change the oil and filter every 5K miles using full synth, drain/refill the trans fluid every 30K, drain/refill the radiator every 3 years using distilled water and you'll be good. I suck the brake fluid and power steering fluid out with a turkey baster every 2 years and replenish. Something to keep in mind, the differential is independent from the transmission so you have to drain and refill that separately.

[@gertstolk]

@@muziklvr7776 thanks a lot, I'll keep that in mind 🫡

[@gertstolk]

@@muziklvr7776 An advice for all vintage Camry lovers: always fill up your tank with ethanol free, 93 octane, premium fuel. Your engine and fuel system will thrive 😁

[@Toyotacorollaaltis-cn9fd]

I would not put water in the radiator that stuff will do all sorts of bad stuff such as rusting your radiator and destroying its hoses

[@peyiots]

I commend you on your honesty, your clarity, and your engagement. There are many people who have found your videos helpful and honest. You have my admiration. Thank you.

[@andycrewgaming9664]

A few things to add from my experience as an auto tech. 90s Camry and Corolla power steering leaks are very common at the pump. And on Toyota's 1zzfe 1.8L 4 cylinder it is imperative that you make sure there is no excessive crankcase pressure because when these engines sit for a couple months or longer the piston rings in the cylinder at the lowest position can get stuck or seize in the piston. If you're lucky it may drive out, but of the 3 that I've had my first car sat for 2 years and had a completely dead cylinder, the second was fine, and my third currently has some excessive crankcase pressure. So if you're buying a Corolla or anything on that platform with that engine find out how much it was driven and how it was maintained

[@moshet842]

Crankcase pressure is as simple as PCV valve or hose if I'm understanding you.

[@andycrewgaming9664]

@@moshet842 the PCV valve is new as that was my original hope for the engine but I had confirmed that both PCV valves operated as intended and the crankcase pressure is from compression glasses entering the crankcase from cylinder 2 for the new engine, I found this doing a cylinder leak down test on all 4 cylinders

[@geoffreyvick2673]

Very good advise wizard! Another thing I do to check if the vehicle has been wrecked is checking the glass. Other than the windshield I check to see if the glass has the manufacturer stamped into it. Some models also have the vin etched in each piece if they’re original.

[@RootsMusic-ek5nc]

My Kid used to always have his floor mat jammed up by the accelerator on his camry, Its user error for sure, You have to check these things lol

[@carnakthemagnificent336]

Thank you. Great advice for any used car purchase. Regarding Toyotas: I purchased my first new Toyota 4x4 pickup in 1985. I've purchased two new Toyotas since (96 Camry and 2010 Tacoma). Three vehicles, my primary vehicles, have covered 39 years. I saw that they were serviced regularly, they've been fantastic.

[@davidvivian596]

Hi Wizard, good to see you in your Spring fashion outfit. It makes me feel that Summer can't be far behind! Great video (as usual) by the way.

[@Freighttrain-yd4fz]

When it comes to getting the cartridge style filters off the thing that has worked best for me is the Matco Toy117 adapter. It doesn't use the plastic ears at all it uses the bottom of the plastic housing. I've used it hundreds of times and has never let me down. No other adapter works better.

[@raymondstapleton3945]

the 4cyl 2.7l engine in the Tacoma has a secondary air intake system that is supposed to flush gasses from the exhaust. There's a foam air filter inside the intake that wasn't designed to be serviceable. It can crumble with age and get sucked into the air system wreaking havoc. Costs about a thousand to replace the secondary blower motor.

[@alibabaschultz352]

Good info, thanks!

[@ltdees2362]

...this is a must save video...virtually everything you go over, is in my play book and the reason I own a 2011 Lexus ES-350 and a 2011 Rav4...undeniably, both are the most reliable vehicles I have ever owned. They were both one owner vehicles purchased from the owner. I will never drive anything but Toyota. And like you Wizzard, I preach "regular maintenance is the life blood of any vehicle." Period....

[@michaeltutty1540]

In December I had to take my old 1990 Volvo 240 off the road. My late mother's next door neighbour was forced to stop driving. She duggested I buy her 2004 Corolla with 100,000 miles on the clock. The car had been serviced at the dealership since new. Little Yoda has exceeded expectations.

[@DonGrigorianFishing]

The last thing I care about when buying a car is Floor Mats 🤣😂I start with the engine, then drivetrain, suspension...lastly interior

[@saucemasterx911]

How do you inspect the drivetrain?

[@DonGrigorianFishing]

@@saucemasterx911 Ummmm by driving it??? 👀

[@jake9705]

I bought my second gen 2005 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner SR5, 4 cyl, 4x2, access cab with manual transmission brand new off the Toyota lot in May 2005. Paid it off on time in May 2010 and have been driving it ever since. Not a whole lot of miles because for many years I walked or rode my bicycle to school/work. Currently has about 89,000 miles, all in Southern California in the Los Angeles area. Never off-roaded and miraculously no wrecks. Here are all the problems I've had with it: 1) Less than 10K miles -- Manual transmission made a horrifically loud squeaking noise that could be heard from the sidewalk when I drove down the street. Loud squeak every ten seconds on average as I shifted. Huntington Beach Toyota dealership claimed this loud transmission squeak was not valid for repair under the "3 yr/36,000 mile total powertrain warranty." I asked if they had any *intelligent* people I could speak to instead of the sales sleazeball; they quickly caved and "fixed" the squeak by shooting some thick lithium grease around the clutch fork pivot assembly. The grease fixed the squeak for six months and the whole act was repeated over and over until the warranty ran out. It's still a problem I deal with by spraying my own grease, especially during wet weather. 2a) 40K miles in -- Clutch pedal assembly inside cab now squeaks loudly. Paid $250 to have this entirely replaced by local mechanic. He was visibly nervous about his fix when he handed back my keys back but it turned out fine. Occassional squeaks but not bad. 2b) 40K miles in -- Sideview mirrors vibrate themselves loose and nearly fall off. Fixed myself. 2c) 40K miles in -- Light grey paint began peeling on top of cab and at wheel fenders. Haven't fixee but did stop going through automated car washes, which slowed deterioration. 3a) 60K miles -- Inside the lower right dash, the AC fan blower motor failed. I followed advice online and replaced a cheap module first by myself, which didn't fix fan. Later replaced the whole blower fan myself, which did make the AC blow again. 3b) 60K miles -- Driver'a visor failure. 4) 65K miles -- Oil seep from valve cover at top, back right portion of engine. Very minor seep but unfortunately drips straight down onto the header, making the whole car smell like it's on fire. Problem exacerbated when parked at right sloping curb as oil flows from inside engine to that hole. Solved cheaply by parking nose down on a level driveway as much as possible. Partially fixed myself. 5) 70K miles -- Repeated AC gas leaks. Paid multiple times to recharge AC gas but charges only lasted two month each before gas drained. 6) 75K miles -- Gas cap seal failure, coding incorrectly as a fault with some weird emissions valve in the engine bay? Fixed myself. 7) 80K miles -- Major engine coolant leak from somewhere in the lower front of the engine block. Noticed engine coolant resevoir repeatedly and randomly dropping and dried pink crust at front kf engine. Fixed myself. 8) 85K miles -- AC failing again but cause unknown. 9) Entire ownership period -- Headlight housings faded badly. Replaced both housings three times. 10) Multiple, major recalls in this order: incorrect safety warnings, seat belt failure, steering column failure, dangerous floormats, dangerous leaf springs, rusty frame check (pass). Finally: EPA advertised combined MPG of 22 but in reality it's only 14 MPG combined. A massive lie. All in all not a bad truck. Total maintanence repairs out of my pocket is less than $1000 over nearly 18 years, not bad.

[@alibabaschultz352]

Huh. I dont think ive had any of these issues with my 2.7 except valve cover gasket, which happens on every car.

[@anthonyrobbins8647]

First revision of the 1zz engine had major ring issues 99-02. Came in celica’s and MR2’s as well as a few others. Avoid those or buy 03 or newer after the revision. 2AR’s had consumption issues as well in some model’s. Always saw guys rebuilding those.

[@Rockony]

A lot I see they all smoke or born oil whit 2025 k milles

[@rallen9433]

I want a Toyota and recently took my Son to check one out for me. Everything checked out except the frame... it was a total, I mean TOTAL rust nightmare and they wanted over 10,000 for it. SMH. everything under the car and the wheel wells are a total rusty nightmare. Thank you for my shopping list you gave me Car Wizard... this will help me find my 4runner 2006 to 2009. I love the body style.

[@Dakiraun]

Ha - great plate on the FJ. Another SUPER good tip for *_any_* used car (dealer or private) - bring a scan tool. The potential to see stored codes, or if it was just recently cleared and see live engine data can be quick disqualifiers for shady vehicles.

[@deadchannel991]

For anyone else reading this: this saved my ass more than a few times. I looked at 3 different vehicles which all had transmission codes and there was no light on the dash or signs of transmission issues. Always check the codes

[@Dakiraun]

@@deadchannel991 Good stuff! Yeah, the check-engine light illumination rules are kinda vague. Often it's not illuminated unless something is more than 20% out of spec, or only if it's directly affecting emissions. Transmission and other codes may _never_ light it up. Sneaky stuff.

[@Natepwnsu]

Don't forget to engage and disengage the parking brake. You rarely need a parking brake here, but I bought a car that had a parking brake that didn't disengage once it was set and I should have checked that stupid thing before hand. Lesson learned. Make sure the mileage is proper with the mileage in the tac. Otherwise you won't be able to resell it.

[@yiyangcheng]

Thank you Wizard for the information that Scotty doesn't tell his viewers about!

[@dagamer667]

Hey Wizard, one thing to remember when checking out the wheels is to look for the locking lug nuts! Make sure the owner has the key!!! Otherwise the removal can be anything between a mild hassle for the shop and nigh impossible without either damaging the wheel or drilling out the stud. Fun times. But here's a very, very Toyota specific issue to look out for. MR2 Spyder convertibles produced in 2001 and 02. The precat converters on those had a tendency to shed small pieces of ceramic that sometimes got sucked back inside the cylinder and would trash the engine block. Before the issue became well known, some owners replaced their engine just to have the exact same problem happen within a few thousand miles. The later years had a redesigned exhaust manifold but Toyota never did a recall or officially acknowledged the issue. The good news is that you can easily tell the newer years by the air intake inserts being painted to match the body vs black unpainted plastic like before.

[@thevacdude]

Good advice, Dave. This goes for any vehicle, not just Toyota.

[@mattknight6691]

I love my Toyotas. I own/have owned several. They are mostly bulletproof. The one problem area I have found is the ignition key module. Over time they become hard to turn without a great deal of fiddling. They will eventually cease to function. Fortunately, they are both easy and cheap to replace. Tons of KZbin videos will walk you through the process. I've done two myself.

[@curtgomes]

I have a 2006 Lexus GS and a 1995 Toyota T100 (28 years)..... and both are awesome. Calif. cars and well maintained. They will last just as the wizard says....

[@garyaanderson214]

2000 tacoma 4x4 manual 235,000 miles 2012 tacoma manual 4x4 2012 corolla 157,000miles.5000 mile oil and filter full synthetic.Use toyota brake pads 140,000 miles on pads tacoma at change.All original rotors.I would drive any of these cross country all 4 cylinder engines

[@moshet842]

​@@garyaanderson214 You must be doing a lot of highway driving. I've never heard of pads lasting 140k. There is nothing special about Toyota brake pads, it's the highway driving for sure. It's also the highway driving why your cars are holding up solid.

[@curtgomes]

@@moshet842 Years ago I had a Lexus that I bought used. The car would not stop properly and was super dangerous at higher speeds. I took it back to the dealership where I bought it. They said nothing was wrong. Total bullshit. I couldn't drive the car and finally took it to a brake specialist. He told me the "new" brake pads were no good. We redid the brakes with Lexus OEM pads, etc and the car was excellent. It turned out that the DEALERSHIP put aftermarket brakes and parts on it and told me they had installed new brakes. New junk brakes! OEM brake parts ONLY!

[@Toyotacorollaaltis-cn9fd]

@@garyaanderson214 Thats exactly why I went through the trouble of getting Toyota genuine brakes for my 04 Corolla cause the aftermarket junk lasted 20000km then broke in like 40 places

[@Toyotacorollaaltis-cn9fd]

@@curtgomes Made that mistake myself the China sweat shop trash Toyota tried passing off as OEM brakes never worked and in just 10000km when I found actual OEM brakes to change them too and removed them the pads were broken in 7 pieces

[@festivekamikaze]

when the Car Wizard posts about Toyotas and 4Runners I click immediately

[@alexzman85]

This is a stupid worthless video. Dude, thinks everything should work on a used car.

[@xXFireHawkXxHD]

me too man me too

[@Pneuma3301]

Are 4Runners not a Toyota? 🤔

[@lionlamb432]

​@@xXFireHawkXxHD 6666 😅is a good good place to 4😅

[@DeathMammoth91]

I am a simple man...when I see an old 4Runner, I click on it!

[@LumenateTV]

I've been Looking at 4Runners recently all because you recommend Toyota's Car Wizard!

[@paulmalloy4544]

Thanks for the laugh out loud moment telling your friend to "shut up" just "shut up I'm trying to listen to the motor". So good. Thanks also for the great advice on taking your time looking at a used car. We often forget that we don't have to be on someone else's timeline. If they're trying to hurry you as you do this awesome checklist, just walk away.

[@midcenturymodern9330]

When you turn on the ignition, make sure the little airbag warning light turns on for about 3-4 seconds. If it doesn't light up, it could be a major issue. Also, from personal experience while looking at a used Sienna, when you open the tailgate and the panel/fender welds on the left side and the right look different, it indicates an accident. We walked away from the deal after seeing poor manual welding job. The left side had clean spot welds; the right side almost had blisters.

[@saratc660]

I think the best deal on the market is a frame replaced Toyota truck with higher mileage. They’re out there and if it’s maintained, that’s a great truck

[@wyattgardner3552]

The trucks that got their frames replaced had bodies that were just as rusted. Fuel lines, brake lines ect were not covered by recall.

[@icepop54367]

Too bad those 15-20 year old trucks with 200k+ are not good deals. Great trucks but not worth 15-20k price tag the sellers are asking and not getting. I don’t care how nice it is; I’m not paying almost MSRP for a base model 20 year old Tacoma

[@saratc660]

@@icepop54367 I would never pay that much for one - they pop up around me for $8k-$14k and admittedly they’re usually 4-cylinders and occasionally you’ll find a beat up V6, but they do show up

[@jaj145]

one big thing exterior/paint wise i think you missed mentioning is the toyota Blizzard Pearl paint recall. basically, poor quality paint will can start peeling off like the shell of a hardboiled egg. the initially affected panel or panels may have already been touched up/fixed, but any other panels can still start peeling (especially right after the extended recall campaign support ends)

[@precious5663]

Thanks for this.👍

[@jordancarlson6556]

My advice is avoid the 2AZ-FE. The 2.4L that are in the Camry's as well as many other cars in the mid-late 2000s. The pistons & rings were incorrectly designed and have a tendency to burn a lot of oil. Had a 2009 Pontiac vibe (Toyota matrix) with one and it went through a quart every 600 miles. Still ran fine but eventually I would've had to deal with a clogged catalytic converter.

[@cutehumor]

I got 09 pontiac vibe 2.4 liter. 145k miles. had full synthetic oil the past 12.5 years. burns 1 quart every 2500 miles. I do check the oil every tank full and add up to full mark. it may help with decreasing the amount of oil burned. I did just use seafoam in the oil. I plan on changing the valve cover gasket and seafoam the spark plug holes later this year.

[@rondockweiler2663]

2005 Camry, 2.4L with 5 speed manual. Over 300k and the only thing ever was a waterpump and heater fan. Milage was crazy good!

[@Tclans]

The force is strong in this one. Never ever have I heard ‘toy Joda’ referenced so much in a single video. 😊

[@Hobinator17]

11:52 I think it was the Car Care Nut (toyota mechanic) that said keep whatever style housing came on your car. You can clearly see the bypass tubes are different lengths and you have to swap your oem tube to the new one. And this basically breaks the bypass mechanism. If the ears are breaking off the housing, that is user error from the previous person over torquing it. Its 3/4 turn past hand tight, all you ever need. No leaks, no broken ears Not to mention you can use a big socket style tool to grab the end even if the ears break... its like a 45mm socket thing. I got one at autozone for 10 bucks

[@marklintwo]

Yes, you ate 100% correct. NEVER had a problem with a plastic oil filter cartridge because I didn't over-torque it. Sold it after 158k miles, no problems. And yes, I trust the Car Care Nut 100%

[@joshdoeseverything4575]

I'm a tech and have to deal with these overtorqued housings on the daily. I coughed up the $50 for the nice matco filter socket style wrench that only engages the flutes on the bottom of the filter not the tabs on the top. All the other techs have them too - we've never broken a filter housing even when they're overtorqued. The tools that engage the little tabs are stupid

[@FrankC76]

Specifically to Toyotas is the cold rattle VVTi actuator gear (known as cam phasers in other brands). Start the engine when it hasn't been started for at least a few hours, preferably first start of the day. If there is a loud rattling sound coming from the valve cover that lasts about a second or less you have that issue. Very common with the otherwise excellent 2AR-FE engine you find in so many Toyotas from 2009-2017. Some people say you can just live with it, I could not. I want my engine lasting a very long time without worrying about that gear failing and destroying the engine one day. $500 in parts to fix it yourself, assuming you have the ability, and who knows what a mechanic would charge. Thousands. Decide if that is an important factor for you when buying. Lots of videos on YT on this topic with Toyotas.

[@Urkiaistrash]

yea I def have this issues 2009 toyota highlander with 200,000 miles it stops after 2 seconds some days it wont do this at all. I purchased it at 150,000 miles and it's been doing it since if I were to know this at the.time of purchase I would have def talked down the price.

[@jacefarber1200]

had this problem drove it over 80,000 miles

[@RamBo-uu9so]

06 Highlander AWD limited 335k and 07 Tundra SR5 4x4 daily drivers. Still rocking and rolling!

[@GoinDownhill361]

I owned several toyotas and a couple of lexuses, new and used, and by my own experience they're pretty much indestructible but don't cheap on the oil. Toyota engines are quite picky with the quality of the oil, and they'll let you know.

[@sylviau7901]

This was amazing! Felt like my Dad was giving me these guidelines. It’s like the Car Talk guys. Thank you so much David. So wish you were in Austin, TX.😢

[@Rhinozzzz]

Wizard, GREAT video as always. As to the ever missing mats, the detail guys at the dealerships will bin them if they dont look like new. There is nothing worse than cleaning a car to look like when it came off the factory floor and then stick ugly and/or worn mats back into the car. And car dealers are too cheap to buy new ones for you; and sourcing them and then matching them up with the car is a hassle (it may have sold in the meantime, or gone to auction, etc.)

[@SaschaFerda]

In Germany, it is common for people who order the smaller displacement (cheaper) version of a luxury car to delete the model badges on the order form. The irony is, of course, that no one is fooled by this.

[@petesmitt]

@@elpolaco7654 that exact point was made in the comment..

[@korndogz69]

Interiors are the very first thing I look at also. You can tell from the interior if the previous owner took care of the vehicle, or if they considered it to be a convenient rolling trash can. If they didn't take care of the interior, it's almost guaranteed they didn't take care of mechanical maintenance.

[@anthonydilligaf823]

...and there are people will pay hundreds for a detailer, and not half that for an oil change.

[@dclaet1135]

Not necessarily true...My 2006 Accord V6's paint has deteriorated, the leather seats are shot, but I have babied the engine and transmission all along the way. Oil changes every six months along with drain and fill transmission oil changes with every engine oil change...always used Honda fluids and parts for everything. Preventative maintenance ahead of time. So no, you can't always tell a book by it's cover.

[@korndogz69]

@@dclaet1135 That's the exception. Not the rule. There's exceptions to everything. In my experience, 100% of the people who used their cars as a convenient rolling trash can never maintained their car. They always waited to take it to the shop until something broke, then they're either bewildered on why it broke, or they sigh and admit they knew they should have brought it in for regular maintenance, but couldn't find the time, or make some other pathetic excuse (lazy).

[@308rep]

Watch out for 4WD Toyota Matrix as rear diff goes bad by 100K and there are no replacement parts available.

[@cvr24]

The rear subframe is also an issue on the AWD Matrix and it's twin, the AWD Pontiac Vibe

[@jasonw7497]

Remove driveshaft. Fixed.

[@byloyuripka9624]

​@@jasonw7497 then 100 percent power is applied to the front end all the time......

[@yukonstriker1703]

@@byloyuripka9624 Like all FWD vehicles LOL

[@byloyuripka9624]

@@yukonstriker1703 seems like a good way to snap axles and pop diffs 🤷🏻‍♀️

[@jfcooking]

I'm hunting down a Toyota as my daily driving, your videos are helping me a lot. Thanks

[@caitlinoneill4479]

In 2021 I bought a 1997 Land Cruiser from the dealership. I had to replace the transmission torque converter seal and rear engine main seal which was a pricey repair. The mechanic initially thought the leak only required cleaning the oil pan and replace the oil filter. He thought it was a residual oil leak. After I had the car for a week or so the check engine light came on! My mechanic replaced all the parts he could think of and checked, cleaned hoses but the car does drive well. Another mechanic said he drove the heck out of my car and it has a strong engine.

[@lindsaygreen5102]

I did it wizard. I resisted the temptation to buy a non toyota and bought a Tacoma with 60,000 miles. All I could think of is the many times you said go for it. Dont go cheap and end up with junk. Thank you.

[@jaredchampagne2752]

The Tacoma’s have really bad frame rust issues, make sure you keep on top of it.

[@Rich_123]

Great video, but definitely need to mention the massive oil consumption issue with 06-08 2.4L engines. They are in Rav4, Camry, Scion tC and more, and guaranteed to have this problem. The blow-by will kill O2 sensors repeatedly and eventually plug up the catalytic converter. There was a recall for this, but most missed the deadline.

[@raymondcanessa7208]

I have a 08 solara sle 2.4L. I bought used 3 year ago with 39 k miles now have 58k miles for 8k dollars. Because of oil burning I change the oil every 2 months or 1.5 k miles when the dipstick @ half full. Other than that car is like new. Does anyone have any ideas. thanks

[@Daniel_Colavecchio]

Early second generation Prius have an oil consumption issue too. Seems to be the rings as some of the oil treatments do seem to reduce it for a while.

[@thenaturalmidsouth9536]

My 07 camry has this issue. I just add oil every 1000 miles. No other problems. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive.

[@Rich_123]

@@thenaturalmidsouth9536 The oil blowby is slowly plugging up your catalytic converter and damaging your O2 sensor.

[@thenaturalmidsouth9536]

@@Rich_123 maybe, but at 168,000 miles, I don't care. It still runs great otherwise.

[@Falasi4]

3.0 v6 are timing belt non-interference 3.3 v6 are timing belt interference 3.5 v6 has timing chain On 3.0 v6 they do tend to have valve cover gasket leaks around 100k - good time to change gasket and plugs at same time. Parts tend to be relatively inexpensive and easy to get - for o2 sensors etc... pay a little more and get the OEM nippon-denso As someone who actually likes to work on their own cars a bit if a lift isn't needed, the toyota and lexus we have are the easiest to work on of anything else I've owned

[@karlhansen3921]

I just bought a 09 gs ,350 yesterday. It has 125k miles what service do you recommend thanks for your input I'm new to toyota

[@Falasi4]

@@karlhansen3921 I'm not a mechanic but do what I can for fun. I do have a trusted local shop I'd take it to and have them look it over and change fluids so my "honeymoon eyes" are not overlooking things.

[@chicken29843]

Any Toyota hybrid you are looking at be sure to inspect the brake booster assembly for any kind of audible leakage of air with the car on. Dad had consistent issues and certain models from the early 2010s did not get a proper recall for these issues and it is a very expensive repair to do even yourself

[@allegrabraun7545]

I paid $3000 for a 2002 small Tundra with passenger cab V8 truck. Then had a 9 point inspection done. ✅ Including advice on its all matching tires ✅ $5000 for the inspection and parts etc... Costco gas. 👍 Perfect EVERYTHING for my driving ❤ pleasure. I bought a new slide in camper Northstar... I bought the truck from a caring owner. And have many great road trip adventures. Love my truck❤

[@ericl7519]

Need to make sure all lights register, especially the check engine light with accessory on engine off. Someone could disconnect the check engine light before you buy a vehicle.

[@JoeUrbanYYC]

Yep, when I was younger and more dumb I purchased a car with no check engine light illuminated. Later found that the dash had been opened up the check engine bulb removed.

[@828findadventure]

Excellent video, thank you for taking the time to film and edit it. Priceless information Wizard,

[@morrij01]

V6 engines are bulletproof, but I'd pay a lot more attention to a 2.4L engine, I've seen a lot more issue with those. The ones in the Scion tC could be especially problematic, perhaps because they were abused, but also in some Camrys and RAV4s.

[@A-classic-smithy]

I put 190,000km on mine and has 0 issues. Car ran same as the day I drove it off the dealership, my 2014 tC was the best car I ever owned.

[@steved0603]

Thank you! Excellent video. My wife and I are about to go look at a very clean 2016 4Runner with somewhat high mileage this morning, so this has helped me hone my car shopping tool kit before we get there. I've bought way too many cars in my lifetime, but I sometimes forget half this stuff when I'm looking! And some of it I've never thought about checking. Much appreciated! I've been fortunate and only really been burned one time with a used car purchase. Thank you for the VINWiki suggestion, too. We're a Toyota family and I have installed upgraded oil filter housings on my wife and daughters Lexus and RAV4 SUVs. Discovered those earlier this year and wish I'd known about those a long time ago! WAY easier to service the oil filter vs with those crappy plastic housings!

[@johnfreeman2956]

@11:55 As a note to people looking to get a metal housing: you have to be VERY VERY careful that it is the EXACT dimensions of OEM!!! Do NOT cheap out here!! The reason is that a bad oil filter housing will have oil bypassing the filter media, so you end up with unfiltered oil. TBH just overpay a dealership for OEM if you can, it's really not worth it.

[@paulstledger7527]

Hey Wizard! Here in Australia 1vd v8 diesels in Landcruiser 70 and 200 are well known to leak dust through the intake. Known as “dusting” it will eventually destroy the turbos and engine. There are several aftermarket air boxes addressing this, but using one voids your warranty. I don’t have this issue on my current 200 series, yet. But did have it on my previous 70 series when driving remote dirt roads for hundreds of km. Currently looking into an aftermarket air box by Donaldson filters

[@houstongoner]

In the US a v8 diesel landcruiser is a RARE gem.

[@wildman4642]

Pack joint with grease

[@paulstledger7527]

@@wildman4642 hasn’t worked for me, I just replaced it with an aftermarket solution.

[@juanrodriguez-ry6yt]

we like gasoline engines on this side of the world i did see a corolla diesel back in the 80's

[@juanrodriguez-ry6yt]

50 years as a mechanic l1 master car and truck.common rail diesels have their problems sensors everywhere. not your grandfathers diesel.@@donovanchilton5817

[@madmax9009]

You missed some things there... Look for rust, especialy cars that lives in a place that put salt during winter. Look for frame, rocker pannels rear quarter pannels. Also BEFORE starting the car, look for the oil, the color, the smell. It will give you an indication that the car has been maintained. And If the level is low, it means it leaks or consumes oil. Some toyota engines have oil consumption issues due to oil rings or valve seals.

[@PieterBreda]

Cracking dashboards are very rare in the Netherlands due to our climate. Rust however can be an issue.

[@Martinsvlog11]

In my opinion the administrative things should be number 1. You want to make sure it's a vehicle that's legit before you spend your time inspecting the vehicle.

[@willyhwang1059]

great advice. if i were buying a used corolla for my wife, i would do everything you suggest. but if i were buying my dream car that's rare to find, i would succumb the temptation to buy and sort out the problems later.

[@hoozthair6076]

It's good to know that a person who has a vehicle folded in-half due to frame Rust is not experiencing a massive failure.

[@Goblin--Slayer]

We need a video of the "thinking chair" and how you do it, most people want a "gaming chair" but i'd love to have a "thinking chair" like that one.

[@HR-wd6cw]

The perhaps most severe one I've heard of on certain Toyotas (particularly in the 2009-2011 range) was the oil burning due to bad piston ring design, but Toyota did replace the rings on many cars during that era, but it is something to look for. There were other more minor things here and there (like the transmission issues on the 2019 Corolla Hatchbacks) but I think this was fixed in 2020 and they likely fixed the 2019's as well that had the issues. The only others would be timing belts and water pumps (which can leak, especially on cars like the Solara) but that's more of a maintenance item. One thing people do need to keep in mind (and this isn't specific to Toyota) but Toyota does still use interference engines, so if you car does have a belt, you need to change it at the appropriate intervals (i think perhaps 60k to 100k depending on the model) and for all cars, change the oil (for those with chains, this is critical, because under normal use, if you change the oil regularly, the chain should not need any maintenance). Most of the modern Toyotas (since about 2000+ I think have chains, but are still interference engines).

[@tonydavis190]

It's actually the 2007-2009 2.4L 4-cylinder that had problems with oil consumption due to the use of low tension piston rings in a foolish attempt to reduce friction & improve fuel economy. Toyota issued a service campaign where if it consumed more than a quart of oil in like 1200 miles they would replace the piston & rings for up to 150,000 miles or 10 years from the first use date. My girlfriend received the letter for her 2007 camry and she failed to respond! Also, some 2007-2009 3.5 V6 engines use a rubber oil line on the rear cylinder bank VVT oil line that would sometimes burst and destroy the engine. This was recalled but toyota used another rubber line, so you have to get an updated metal line on a 2010 & newer engine.

[@williammcdonald8856]

That and the melting dashboard issue with several Toyota/Lexus products between 2007-2010.

[@jakedover5301]

Have an 09 corolla with almost 200,000 miles and it doesnt leak oil and it stays clean even up to when i change the oil, that being said i have to add a quart to a quart and a half during those 5000 miles because it burns. the 97 tacoma i got uses hardly any oil and it has 50,000 more miles on it.

[@braxtonnelson7422]

I've only owned one Toyota in my almost 50 years of driving... a 1968 Corona 4dr sedan. I bought it for $50.00 with a broken piston from spinning a rod bearing. Luckily, back then I worked at an auto parts store that had a machine shop in the back, so the machine work didn't cost me anything. I bought new bearings and pistons (.010 over) for the 3RC 1.9L engine. It had the Toyoglide 2 speed automatic trans, and I found one in a salvage yard, along with a new differential for $150 for both. I drove that car for 3 years before I traded it in on a new car (1984 Nissan Stanza).

[@bubulubu-zs3tl]

This is so helpful, I'm checking out an 2000 ls400 this week. I will be using all this tips 👌

[@markchip1]

I would do all of the title and VinWiki/Carfax checks first - that way you don''t waste an hour or more of your day checking over a car that you're simply not going to buy!

[@JoeUrbanYYC]

100% When I'm interested in a vehicle I ask the owner for the VIN, ask if their is current active registration that isn't salvage/rebuilt etc, and also ask if they have service records before even going to see the vehicle.

[@bernardshaw7585]

2GR-FE 3.5 Liter 6cyl 2008ish to 2011ish various models have a high pressure VVT oil line with a rubber section in the middle that is prone to catastrophic failure, same for an oil cooler line on models with a tow package Toyota replaced with an all metal hose after 2011. Should have been a recall, they did a TSB replacement that ended in 2020 I believe, other than that great engine, 2009 Highlander, 170K runs like a top

[@HawkingHorizon]

They did a recall but just replaced the hose with a slightly thicker hose, 2011/12 models onwards they replaced the entire thing with a metal pipe throughout, but good news is that it's backwards compatible. Anyone with a 2GR-FE that they want to keep for a while should get this upgrade, as it's pretty cheap (sub $150 I remember), the alternative is loss of engine oil which is disastrous!

[@atx-cvpi_99]

If you’re looking at a Toyota with one of these engines, take the engine cover off and look at both the VVTi lines and the oil cooler lines. If you see rubber on these lines, knock the price down. All 2012 and newer Toyotas that have that engine have upgraded already.

[@md2k8]

​@@atx-cvpi_99 Agreed 💯

[@jerrydumas7655]

Wizard I live here n the phillippines and there's some nice older model fjs that still look great and no one wants too sell keep up the gd work

[@tectoramia-sz1lu]

We have a Toyota Yaris hybrid and an IS300h Lexus. They both get serviced every year whether they need it or not. It maintains the 10yr warranty on the hybrid batteries. In the UK, you can take any Toyota for a dealer service, no matter where you bought it, and it will automatically have a one year warranty. Up to 10yrs old or 100,000 miles

[@Cyberdeamon]

Hey Wizard, should check AMD's work on Toyota's on his channel The Car Care Nut, he explains there faults, what a failing VVTi system sounds like and how to look after the system.

[@DerDuckPond]

That’s exactly what I did on the 2010 Corolla I just bought. I actually listened to his video on the 2009-2013 Corolla, took notes, and combined that knowledge with the Car Wizard’s tips to score a pretty decent car. The paint is a bit iffy on the top, that’s the sun here for you, but I knew to get it for a cold start to check VVT-i, where to look for damages, how to tell of something’s been fiddled with, and lots of great tips.

[@geriscape]

In the most general sense, your advice is sound, as you say, for any potential purchase,. It's a general primer on due diligence. Your exposition is properly segmented, deliberative and detailed. If I have anything to add, it's in discussing your claim about not having a lot of information about "pattern failures" in Toyotas. And there have been some significant "pattern failures" on some Toyota models. For example, it's well known that the first iteration of the 2AZ-FE engine (high tension pistons), between 2002-2006 (on Camrys, for example) had potential problems with head bolts. These problems were fixed in the low-tension version of the 2AZ-FE (2007-various subsequent years) BUT a faulty piston ring design (poor oil control rings) led to substantial oil burning. The 2007-2009 Camrys and similar years for the RAV4 had such an endemic problem that Toyota had to go through "a campaign" (sealed oil testing for 1200 miles) to determine if they burned more than a quart, during that time. If so, then a new short-block, with revised pistons and oil control rings weree installed. So, for those vehicles, it's important to call a dealer and see if that particular vehicle had a short block replaced. If not, extra caution has to be taken to ensure you're not buying an oil burner. Another example: The 2012-2014 Camry and RAV4: These years and models have a well-known and pronounced torque converter shudder @ about 40 mphs. The fix was a new torque converter AND a reprogramming of the software to prevent the reoccurrence. Even small stuff can be an issue: Falling sun visors, etc. And there are others, as well. (DIsclosure, here. I own a 2008 Camry, 2.4L, LE). I am the one and only owner. I like the vehicle, for a number of reasons. Iimportant among them is that it's relatively DYI friendly. So, I am a fan, but not an uncritical one. My suggestion is for viewers of this channel to take a look at some of the Car Care Nut's videos on which Toyotas to buy and which to flag for problems. He's an ex-dealership master mechanic (technician) who now runs an independent facility in the South Chicago metro area. (I have no commercial or personal ties to him). He has a number of specific series on all sorts of Toyotas, by generation and model. Take the Car Wizard's excellent general overview and supplement it with the detailed specific information offered up on specific years and models, the better to assess potential problems.

[@petesmitt]

I'd buy a Toyota if my 1989 Mazda wasn't going so well after a third of a million km's.. perfect compression, doesn't burn any oil; I suspect that I'll die before the engine will..

[@rysterstech]

It is worth noting that things like for example veering in one direction when stopping especially on softer suspension is sort of inherent on vehicles with solid axles or beam axles such as Heavy duty pickups or jeep wranglers. This usually happens when components have worn down, if it's bad enough you can get into death wobble type things, but these can occur on new suspension components as well depending on the vehicle. These issues are often worst when you have a lifted vehicle such as a jeep if the other components such as a steering dampener or bigger panhard bars havent been added

[@frozenhouse5362]

I can tell you put a lot of effort into this video, it shows.

[@stevenbisaillon7321]

Tremendous advice. You educated me on so many things I would never have considered. Of course I don't own or drive an vehicles that have excessive wasteful options. Fewer options, fewer problems. I love plain old dependable Toyotas.

[@OhioStateBuckeyefanstuckinMI]

When it comes to vehicles without badges a lot of people “de-badge” there vehicles. It doesn’t always mean it was painted

[@Jac735]

Facts I always debadge my cars as a car guy or I'll just take the sign off and keep the logo like my current toyota

[@petesmitt]

@@Jac735 I don't know one 'car guy' that's de-badged their vehicle..

[@Jac735]

​@petesmitt well you need to get out more in the Chicagoland area it's very common

[@mikeholt1248]

Great video! Even though I’m a car guy for decades & essentially do everything you do I am saving this video & sending/recommending it to relatives & friends looking to buy a used vehicle. Blind faith is just about the last thing you should use when you’re buying a used vehicle! (buying a used vehicle sight unseen IS the last thing you should do!)😳

[@greaniebeaniez3070]

Another tip is sometimes even the recalled frames are junk. My 02 tacoma has a recalled frame where the rear was welded together horribly.

[@petesmitt]

ah, mercan quality; I only buy Japanese made.

[@Lousybarber]

The last used vehicle I bought four years ago had an accident on its record. It was an old person's car with low miles and good service records. After doing some research I learned the body repairs were cosmetic, there was no frame damage. One of those mishaps where someone rubbed up against the garage door frame. The only issue is some wind noise from the passenger side mirror which was replaced. It was a bit of a gamble but the car has be very reliable. It it would have been a flood or frame damaged vehicle I would have walked away.

[@18_rabbit]

funni thing about the image of baby crawling across the road--- here in the greater western washington area in the great PNW, some guy stole a car that was being warmed up for a moment while the mother was grabbing something not far away and baby was in car seat in backseat. The thief drove off with immediate turn/sharp and the toddler fell out of the car immediately and almost instantly got up and started walking! It was literally the most amazing thing i've ever seen and the child was unharmed amazingly.

[@ironmanjakarta8601]

One thing you missed that Scotty recommends is to check a spark plug and see if it has oil charring on it. If so, the engine is burning oil and deal breaker.