Two Black Albums Part 4 - Making Cases

[@scottstallings5029]

Love 🙂 ❤️ your channel ❤️

[@ImolaS3]

So glad you are posting videos again :) I have learnt so much and enjoyed so many

[@roxstampskanal4597]

Thank you so much for all your videos. Over the years I have watched them over and over again. So happy that you are back again. / Anna-Lena from sweden

[@juangrisales8052]

you must have a student academy .even for a small group.you are an extraordinarily talented person..thank you for sharing so much wisdom ..

[@bellebook5075]

Thank you for part 4! 😁😁😁😁

[@ssnoc]

Almost didn’t recognize you with all that hair ... Great tutorial as usual - I enjoy them all.

[@michaellyne8773]

Thank you again for sharing your knowledge and expertise in this wonderful tutorial, I always wanted to know how a photograph album was made. Is this the process how vantage photograph albums were made or did they use binding tape for the signatures? Thank you again for your tutorial.

[@tongadi3625]

Thank you ♥️

[@gaziakkus]

Thank you for videos

[@edwardgurney1694]

The colour on that cloth is wonderfully vibrant! I notice you don't use a spine stiffener, just the lining. Is the lining sufficient on a book of this size? Or is it to allow the album to lie flat?

[@Ceropegia]

The fabric itself has a paper lining, the paper I use is about 250 GSM, together this is plenty for the spine. One could use a heavier paper for the spine lining as I do it if necessary, on some books I also make a string filled cap on the case which adds strength. Thanks for watching.

[@janeweller]

The amount of work, detail, and care you put into making books/albums amazes me every single time. Thank you so much for sharing your work with us and inspiring others. How do you determine how much space you need to leave between the spine's edge and the board? Is it the same amount of space for each book or is it determined by the covering material? I'm mostly using faux leather (it's on a thicker side) for my bookbinding projects and I've noticed that I either leave too little or too much space for the spine. (One time I left so much space for a spine that I could fit there a pen so it became a pen holder as well.) It's not as much of a problem for soft spine cases but I'd love to make with a case with a board spine and I can't seem to get the right gauge for that type of case.

[@Ceropegia]

When I am making cloth bound case books and there is backing on the spine, I would put my fingertips against the backing and push a board against my fingernail, That seems to be a perfect amount of space for the joint. Looking at that space and making a case for an un-backed spine like you see in this video, I estimate the space to be about 8-10mm from the edge of the spine. that usually works for most case bindings. Leather is a different kind of problem. Leather is traditionally a tight back binding or it is used on hollow backs. That is to say the leather is applied directly to the spine or in the case of fine bindings where the gold tooling is to be protected, on a hollow. In both cases the boards are already attached to the book either by cords or in the case of Library style, by tapes inserted into split boards. In fine bindings, binders try to hide the joint so that the leather makes a continuous sweep around the volume. In Library style the joint is already there. Both of these bindings require paring of the leather which is another lesson altogether. I intend to make a video using leather to make a reproduction colonial journal, which is a board-less book bound in leather like a paper back book with a flap that ties it shut. That book has no turning in on the edges and the leather is attached directly to the spine and end papers. As for the board spine, I have always avoided that type of binding. It is a commercial type of binding that was developed for coffee table books that had impressive stamping on the spine. My objection comes from a practical point. On a small cloth book the spine has 4 points of contact with the world, in use those points show wear and hasten the deterioration of the binding. The same is likely to happen on a smaller leather book too. On very large books it is not such a problem because if they are properly shelved (lying flat, not standing between other books) and laid out to be read, which would be on a table or lectern they will not move around so much as to become damaged like a smaller more portable book. BUT if you need a board spine, make the spine board slightly larger than the width of the spine but not so large that it goes beyond the thickness of the book with boards and covering material. With the spine board in place, measure from the outside to the edge of the front or back board, it should be about 1/2 inch or about 12mm, that's for a medium size book to about 9' x12". That's about all I can say without seeing what you are working with and what your intentions are. Thanks for watching.

[@janeweller]

@@Ceropegia Thank you so much for replying and for going into details. 💖 I'm looking forward to that leather binding video.

[@sladjana9252]

Greetings from Croatia! I watch your every video and enjoy them. You helped me a lot in making the album. I just wanted to ask you where can I buy that fabric with paper lining or maybe it has some other name? Thank you. Just keep going. ❤👍😊

[@Ceropegia]

In this video I tell you that the fabric came from Talas online. You can google Talas and visit the website, they have many paperbacked fabrics, this one is Canapetta, Asahi is also a line of wonderful Japanese fabrics. Thanks for watching.

[@sladjana9252]

@@Ceropegia Thank you. 🙂

[@BobNchannel]

Hi Sage can i ask, what kind of scissors are you using to make this album. thanks from Bob in Seattle

[@Ceropegia]

Those scissors were bought from NY Central back in the 80's, they were made by Scheren König (W.Germany) and were very inexpensive. The black model has been in constant use and has never dulled, they are sharp to the points even after more than 40 years of constant use (10's of thousands of cuts). I think the company realized that they had made a mistake about a year later as they discontinued those black scissors and introduced a heavier, chrome plated model. That works well too but its bulkier and nor so good for tight spaces. I have tried to find them on several occasions but they have eluded me. ( I originally had 4 pairs but I think the others left my studio with some of my help... this is the only pair of blacks that I have, I still have two of the chrome plated pairs.) If you can find a pair of the Chrome plated scissors you will be happy with them they are about 16Cm (6.25") long, as far as wearing they are as good as the black model, just a little heavier in the hand. Thanks for watching.

[@BobNchannel]

@@Ceropegia thank you so much for all the info.

[@jdmccorful]

Your work is very reasuring. Thank you for the afforded opportunity to watch your craft.