Changing My Front Lower Rearward Control Arm!!!

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[@ZincBlurr]

I just went out and bought a T60 to do this, then found out it was just a 12mm hex when I got the bolt out, which I already had. You owe me $7.87 bro!! 🤣

[@wbforsure2104]

Pro tip... When trying to take the tie rod nut off and the shaft is spinning on you, put a floor jack under the tie rod end and Jack it up to apply some pressure and the taper will hold the tie rod shaft from spinning on you.

[@ThatRegularGuyIRL]

I love how your left hand glove progressively gets worse as you loosen the bolts. I hope people notice this because that gives me an idea how hard it will be to loosen some of these bolts lol. Cheers man, this is great. Thank you for taking the time to record this.

[@senseisecurityschool9337]

Thanks for giving the tool sizes, especially the T60, and also the torque specs. Great video.

[@kevisdeadlol3223]

Question. Why does the entire knuckle need to be loosened/removed. Can you take off the control arm with it in place?

[@mikechivy]

Was your car making a clunk over bumps? This is whats happening to my car and I believe this is the culprit. The bushing looks shot

[@SteelBlueBody]

I changed a couple of things! I changed the upper Control Arm, Rearward Control Arm

[@CallMeXTRA]

Thank you sir!!! Video is very helpful, did not know I needed a T-60 to get that inner bolt off

[@Vader347]

Thank you for posting this. I think it's the only video on KZbin that actually replaces the lower control arm. Everyone else replaces the torsion bar and refers to it as the lower control arm.

[@SteelBlueBody]

You're welcome and I did this video cause I was just like you. Looking for someone who change the lower control arm and didn't find any.

[@senseisecurityschool9337]

Oh I see it's NOT supposed to be a T60. A1 Auto says it's a 12mm Allen head. A comment below says 14mm.

[@ZincBlurr]

It's 12mm. I just went and bought a T60 to do this. Got the bolt out and realized I already had a 12mm hex. Not too happy. Oh well. Lol

[@RankinAedx21789]

the tie rod end has a hole in the top for an allen key on mines.

[@railwayhd]

Doing same thing this weekend! Thanks for the HELP!

[@kelvinmpatterson]

Great vid bro

[@MyofitnessTSJT]

Great video stud, I like the extra effort of getting all the angles. thumbs up

[@anthonypolo4788]

Job well done 👍

[@hahahahaha8660]

It would be nice if you showed the actual bolt because nobody is sure on if it's a regular Alan wrench key bit or the star bir.

[@SteelBlueBody]

The Alan key don't work at all

[@beastfromtheeast9318]

Damn, he doing this on the parked on the side of the street.

[@tarunverma3296]

Need 12 mm hex socket

[@sr8shoota]

So on mine at 12:35 when I compare my old part to the new one. My new ones look like yours withe the oval hole but my old ones have a round hole. Could this cause problems?

[@mortonfamily8609]

That is for alignment purposes. The newer one goes on few different cars so allows some play. Make sure you torque to specs, really tight like 138 and it shouldn't move in a way that makes noise etc

[@Vegz0rz]

I read it can be done without disconnecting the tie rod, is that true?

[@SteelBlueBody]

No.. you have to disconnect the tie rode the take out the rear ward control arm

[@Vegz0rz]

SteelBlueBody What about just the lower control arm?

[@SteelBlueBody]

It's connected to it as well

[@Vegz0rz]

SteelBlueBody Thanks for the replies bro

[@Vegz0rz]

SteelBlueBody Do you have a link for the this rearward arm? Moog doesn’t seem to sell it, next best option?

[@chriswhitcomb-dixon1393]

IT IS NOT A T60 IT IS A HEX 12

[@michaelgilchrist9027]

Save that money brother!

[@SteelBlueBody]

That's true Michael!

[@edwinmendoza7570]

So I need a t60 socket for my 2015 Dodge Charger too right?

[@SteelBlueBody]

I tried the t60 on mines and I didn't know it was going to strip my bolt. So, I got the right Hex Bit and the size it (14 Hex Bit) Type in Greenwrench on Amazon and you will see the set with the (14 Millimeter Hex Bit)

[@mikechivy]

Man fuck these cars. I bought a 2006 300C from my father who drove it around 5,000 miles per year and kept it in a garage the entire time, as well as changed the oil every 2,500 miles. Totally babied. At 80,000 miles I had to spend 3 grand to fix the lifters. At 105,000 the exhaust rusted out by the catalytic converter and they wanted a grand for a new one. Money pits

[@CharlesWilson-oz8ys]

Lol bro u taking off bunch of stuff. I could do this without touching most of that

[@RitaWalker]

Hey

[@jimwguitar3002]

What a pain. But we do it because we can.

[@TheCherrybomb0824]

Good video

[@soulfoodqueennet]

Enjoy watching your channel 👍4

[@LILILILILI0]

At 8:05 that big ugly cat lol

[@trentfenner707]

Do not smack that front forward control arm from the side like that unless you want to replace it... You'll bend it if you hit it hard enough. If you're giong to hit it with a hammer, hit it from the bottom of the ball joint so that it puts pressure on the bolt part of it to push it up if you can do it without damaging it. Otherwise use a separator tool.

[@SteelBlueBody]

They have a hump there to release the control arm and I been doing that for a long time. The car runs & drive fine

[@zerolimitsoffroad6346]

I'm doing the same thing on a 2010 challenger tomorrow. Looks like the charger, challenger and 300 have the same chassis.

[@SteelBlueBody]

Yeah bro! I ain't going to lie, but your going to have a challenge to get the part off

[@exiorivera2685]

Good job 👍