Changing The Battery In My 2010 Camaro SS!

This battery install was easy but there were a few things that took me by surprise. Thankfully I had some assistance and it was done in no time! Thanks for watching!
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[@robertjones8304]

I have a 2011 SS for 4 years now your vid gives a push to check my battery .

[@georgeharleydavidsonrider156]

I have one just like it . Still have original battery . First time here . Great video and information.

[@kjchicago1]

I know you’re happy you got that new Duralast battery and that the Camaro car(Bruce)is running well and sounding good

[@dlpartee1036]

Chevy gang here 👍

[@darrynbellamy9975]

Good Job

[@crystalperkins5559]

Very helpful thank you!

[@DS-ft6sd]

I just put a new battery in this year in camaro ss after 10 years.

[@Infidel67]

good video :) I got the 11 SS 2S, and I'm getting the Optima Yellow Top DH 7 so I can power my setup, also will replace my Alternator to a 250 Amp., keep it up ...subbed

[@michaelscott7706]

Damn I guess the next cold spell we get up here in NY will kill mine. My battery is original from when I got it in 2012. The car has a build date of 8/2011. Gonna get another Delco battery.

[@aganttjr86]

Nice work what kinda wicker bill do u have

[@HerAutoPerspective]

I got in on Amazon lol

[@aganttjr86]

Ok thanks i have a Camaro am going look on there

[@Infidel67]

Also I don't know if you did this yet but, consider changing out that ugly SS Grill and get the Heritage one, (No Bowtie lol) it makes it look so much better ;)

[@GrandTheftAuto-er3cv]

Nice Ride Sweetness

[@lletab]

Thank you.

[@TA_Plus_Hemi]

If your Camaro has a voltage gauge, physical or on the radio screen, you will know when the battery is at proper charge when the readings drop into high 12s or 13. When it's reading like 13.8 - 14+ you should give him a little cruise to turn that alternator. Also you can get a battery charger that reads the voltage and alerts you. If your Wifi is good at the garage you can even turn on the trickle charger via an Echo, or something like that. Not trying to spend your $$ just trying to give ideas.

[@charlesbarkwell7693]

13.5 to 14.5 Volts is the Voltage you want to see when the vehicle is Running @ Idle in Park or Neutral....Its called Charging System Voltage. The 1st thing I wonna know within 5 seconds before working on a vehicle is the Base Battery Voltage results ( car keys in my pocket )...If I don't have that knowledge , time spent working on the car , the Battery Voltage is gonna decrease...The next morning @ Home while the person is getting ready to drive off too work , the vehicle may not start , find out the Battery is Dead & wonts you to Replace the Battery for FREE ( since it was in your Shop yesterday ). This scenario happens to a lotta Shops because they think they're " Too Cute " to Document Findings for the Battery & EVERYTHING else that they Test. Base Battery Voltage Findings : 12.6 Volts - Well charged Battery - 100% Charged 12.4 Volts - 75 % Charged Battery ***** 12.2 Volts - 50 % Charged Battery 12.0 Volts - 25 % Charged Battery 11.8 Volts & Below - Car is not gonna start because the Battery Voltage on every vehicle under the Sun drops while cranking & if it drops below 9.6 Volts - you're gonna have to call Houston for help. So if I see 12.4 Volts or Lower within 5 seconds of my Visual/Physical Inspection - that info is documented into the paperwork , along with other faults ( Documented ) !! The above Voltage results are for Flood Lead Acid Batteries that we've been accustomed to for Decades. I can't recall the name of the EXPENSIVE Battery in some of the cars today but on each of the "5" Voltages listed above , the Voltage is Higher....Don't install the Batteries we're use too in a vehicle that calls for this "new type of Battery"..... Call the Dealership Parts Department , give them your VIN # & ask them did your vehicle come brand new with the "Flood Lead Acid" Battery or this New Named Battery.....Now you can run off to Auto Zone & buy your Battery. This old Battery installed into cars that don't call for it can possibly create a Grocery List of Check Engine Light Codes - Your Bill is $1,500.00 & the car still ain't fixed....when the Culprit was the incorrect Battery Installed. Read and Buy the Glovebox Manual from the Parts Department & READ !! it from Cover to Cover..You better get Educated on that Beast you have parked in your Driveway. Southern California ( 90802 ) " Pimpin' Ain't Easy " ( Smile ) Diagnosing Todays Cars Ain't No Joke. Big difference between Repair Work & PinPoint Diagnosing Work. ( Customer has spent $1,000.00 in Parts & the car still ain't working ) Good Grief ! - Lord Have Mercy. P.S. - With your Digital Voltage Meter : Black Lead connected to Negative ( - ) Battery Post Red Lead connected to Positive ( + ) Battery Post

[@TA_Plus_Hemi]

@@charlesbarkwell7693 I have to disagree unless different vehicles or alternators enter high charge mode at different voltage readings. I'm not trying to say you're wrong in this application as I'm not as well acquainted with the Gen 5 & 6 Camaros. I was basing the ranges from my Challenger. It's only the 345 bit just like the Camaro requires some voltage and CCAs to crank over. Also as far as the battery tender idea was also based off another Challenger but I believe a Hellcat. Also the readings I refer to are from the onboard digital volt meter. I know it doesn't always read properly but I've grown accustomed to it. So as long as it reads 11.7 she'll roll over, no problem. The 345 might use the same battery as the SC 6 2 and 6.4. I'm not talking about a shop there salty. Ease back and pay closer attention. A battery tender can be a miracle for these modern vehicles. Also if you work in a shop you know alternators have a high and low charge cycle. Yes when you rev the engine to a higher rpm it will force more power out of the alternator, but if the system has been "asleep" as newer cars are when engine off is selected. As far as any of this is concerned a super capacitor jump starter might have been all she needed. Again the factory installed voltage gauge will help let her diagnose from the driver seat and if the alternator isn't adding voltage on a 1000 - 1200 rpm cold start then she knows to not only check the battery but also the alternator. For another point I have a memory saver for when my battery needs to be changed. She's not dumb she knows how to take a piece of advice from someone whose pic is obviously from the fender of a Challenger and adapt it to her experience. So was this an exercise in thinking Alexa couldn't figure it out, or is this an attempt at a peeing contest? I personally don't care but just barely interested enough to ask. She's probably only ever going to see 14.5 volts in high charge mode at 4000 - 4400 rpm. I don't exactly know the real world numbers other than a 2010 Factory Camaro SS battery has 750 - 770 CCA and an alternator output of 150 amps peak. Whereas my Challenger has a 730 CCA battery with a 160 peak amp alternator. So yeah the readings will be different but after driving Bruce long enough to get his alternator out of high charge mode the voltage will decrease on a factory installed instrument cluster mounted or infotainment screen replicated voltage gauge. Also my Challenger doesn't have Park as a transmission selection.

[@TA_Plus_Hemi]

@@charlesbarkwell7693 Heck if what you said is so correct why respond to me with it? Why didn't you directly comment to Alexa? She's really nice and wouldn't treat you bad.

[@kjchicago1]

That there must be an AC Delco Battery in Bruce

[@frankrivers2183]

Just curious...How did you know the battery was the problem and not the alternator?

[@HerAutoPerspective]

All I know is that it started no problem as soon as I replaced the battery, and if for any reason it doesn’t start in the next 3-4 years I’ll know it’s the alternator 😅

[@mikalhernandez]

@@HerAutoPerspective You really need to get a voltmeter. 😆

[@boogeymana6]

😏 THREEP!!