Chapman Brewing ThermoBarrel vs. Ss BrewTech InfuSsion

[@DustKnight]

Thanks for the comparison. one big difference for me is the Chapman is made with 201 stainless. and the ss brewtech utilizes 304 stainless.

[@frankvillatoro2331]

Thank you for this detailed review! I'm going to go for the Chapman.

[@ADAMJWAITE]

Any long term results, specifically on the Chapman? Can the Chapman be heated from below to maintain temp if recirculating the mash? Thanks for the vid, it was very informative.

[@raymondboyle2722]

As a long time user of Chapman mash tun, no you cannot add heating source to bottom. I use a HERMS system to maintain temp of the mash. But even before doing that, preheating the mash tun works well with the best temp strike water for your space.

[@ADAMJWAITE]

@@raymondboyle2722 Thanks for the reply. Upon further research, I already have a heating element and controller (for a still) so I'm leaning towards building a RIMS system. Found a good deal on a used Chapman and the reviews have been positive.

[@mrkesu]

For your sour picture, it looks like liquid is not even covering the probe so of course it would run the heat pads at full when its not even measuring the liquid temp but ambient air? Maybe its just a bad picture or the tun was tilted? :)

[@davidbyer8164]

It's been years so I forget the specifics, but the probe would have been covered as for any kettle sours I've done I've always filled the MLT to nearly full. I think that pic may have been after I started draining out the wort but I'm not sure.

[@reppinthelocals]

Pretty sure the heating element was designed to work using the recirculation set up. Using it like you did would be very similar to apply a flame to the bottom of a kettle mash tun. You would have to stir it often to keep the full mash at the same temp and. It have the bottom hotter than the top. There are variables that you didn't show that could affect the differences you describe like the manual gauge not being calibrated the same as the electric gauge or how long you stired the grain while doughing in before placing the top on or how fast you poured the grain in. There could be hotspots or cool spots in either mash. Not trying to be a dick or shoot your video down. It's actually awesome you took the time to share your experience I just think there are to many variables to say one is greater than the other as far as holding temp. I think upgrading to a herms or rims would be a better investment coasting about the same to use with a plastic cooler than buying either of these. Mash temps will be 100% stable at what ever you set your system to.

[@Armedcor]

The SS brewtech website says its not to be used while recirculating.

[@clarkelongbottom9021]

i have the ss brewtech 10 gallon mash tun and it does 'chug ' or what ever on the last bit of wort and is not ideal and the digital temp is shite ,way off and takes way too long to equalize with internal temps [i check internal temps with a glass thermometer that has been checked and a thermopen ] but having said that after a pre warm up [i put 30 liters @ + 5degrees c strike temp for 30 mins] it looses no more than a half degree c [not bad at all ] but having said that my peco plastic boiler only looses 1 degree c with a big down cover on it [60 min mash for both ] it is defo well made and looks the part and iv only done 5 brews with it so ill give it more time and experimentation and i have never used a cool box style mash tun but for the money and extra time on a brew day compared to BIAB i think it could be up for sale preety soon

[@gregoryturley1263]

All that money and they give a vinyl tube which is not designed for heat which is the whole reason I want stainless to begin with