CHEAP EASY 12V Camper Van ELECTRICS (REUPLOAD) - How To

[@davejc1]

As an auto electrician of 30 years experience.. I can tell you that's the best video on camper electrics I've seen. One "camper Conversion specialist" I watched was advacating disconnecting the positive terminal of the battery first ..... 😂

[@doraexplora9046]

I was an Electronics engineer, but van wiring confused me because I saw way too many ways of wiring a system in. This video made me realise the best way to wire things up. One thing I noted. Don't suggest all those extra switches to isolate devices. Unnecessary. Use the breakers. I would NEVER use a wire-fuse in a van, because when they trip in the middle of the night! Who's got a spare and how do you get to it? Just use 12VDC thermo-breakers and disconnect the offending device when tripped and reset afterwards. That way you can worry about it in the morning! Vans are subjected to an enormous amount of 'jiggling' on the road, so I would crimp AND solder connectors where possible. If you go off road, I would put a drop of Loctite on the main connectors.

[@ifell3]

This is exactly how I'm building mine. I was going to go down the road with an automatic transfer switch. But as my inverter is IT grounded and new regs on bidirectional protection devices, I popped my head into the rabbit hole and thought stuff this. Without making the system to test each possible fault and protection for safety I thought it was better just to keep the two systems separate. Good to see you have a 2 pole MCB 💪🏼

[@mclucky7086]

Brilliant, Brilliant, Brilliant. And again, Brilliant........

[@stephenmcateer4243]

By far the most useful video I have come across to help me install a DIY 12V solar system

[@vanlifenomadgipsygirlcanad2195]

Thank you so much Its clear easy to understand even for a french 57 years old blond woman as me :)

[@sarahkeast2943]

Thank you for such a clear and simple video, I am literally following it step by step at the moment, till I go to my friends to get everything checked and finally connected. It is very empowering to feel I have done 'most' of my electrickery myself.

[@garytaylor8845]

Hey "HugeTube" your electrical set up videos are the best I've seen on KZbin. The detailed explanations you give and the time, effort and cost of your easy to see and understand board layouts are the dogs doo dahs. Many thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. Keep them coming and best wishes for the future to you Hugh.

[@cohoblue6512]

Absolutely outstanding information , a huge huge Thank You for putting together a very comprehensive detailed video , this must have taken quite a bit of thought and effort to organise - we have all benefited from your experience and knowledge and definitely deserves a round of applause 👏👏

[@waynehobbs5175]

You explain and demonstrate brilliantly. Thankyou so much Hugh. Am doing my first 12v project of upgrading my caravan from just 2 x 100Ah AGM and 2 x 100watt solar panels as it came to: Adding 2 x 300W solar and replacing the batteries with 4 x 100Ah LiFePO4 a new extra MPPT solar controller a new 40A lithium programmed AC to DC plus a new DC DC to feed from cars Anderson plug to batteries. Finally a 2000W pure sine wave inverter plus all wires fuses busbars etc. Having watched this video I feel I can cautiously proceed and will rewatch video. Wayne from sunny South Australia

[@HughTube]

Oh wow a hell of a setup there Wayne! And thanks for the nice comment! Best of luck but please remember that if you’re feeling unsure please consult an electrician.

[@NomaddUK]

Loved how you instantly reverted to a 6 year old boy when the ice cream van arrived.

[@binslagala]

What an absolute brilliant video, suuuper useful! Thank you so much for investing the time to explain it so well!

[@owensdaniels6244]

YES I LIKE HOW YOU HOOK THINGS AND ORGANIZING THINGS UP FANTASTIC! JOB SIR

[@FaizulHamid]

I am.a newbie to DC/DC charging; your video is the #1 in terms of explanation. A BIG thank you.

[@keesadema6548]

Hugh! From the Netherlands, well done! for the first time in months it is completely clear how this system is supposed to work! Keep it up!

[@HughTube]

Thanks so much!

[@shanedean4075]

Thank you for making this so darn simple! Everything else is like a darn physics lesson

[@1rewaco]

Clear, concise,detailed and extremely well explained. I will definitely be using this during my van build. Many thanks!

[@robjones9367]

Probably the most helpful camper electrics video out there. Thanks.

[@HughTube]

Thanks!

[@brianthompson1579]

Thorough and clear with well paced explanations.

[@stivstiv2559]

Absolutely brilliant video. So much covered in a simple ,informative format. Concise,without repitition. The backboard layout is brilliant,as its easy to see,without the business of a van layout. When you cover 'wires', could you add a basic arrow graphic pointing at the wire, that says the size of wire- gauge size, especislly battery wire etc. Thank you so much.

[@4RingsRetro]

THIS! I don't know which guage cable to go from switch to 12v/lighter port. The cable I have isn't wide enough and doesn't supply enough power to the fridge.

[@mattydare]

​@@4RingsRetro Don't think I'm violating any 'laws' by forwarding this - in the notes below vid there's a dropbox chart - kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIfOdYOwp6ZgsNk - props to Greg Virgoe. Not sure if there's a B.S. advising the size against power used (amps) or if it's advice from the cable manufacturer? I'm starting a build so I need info too. Don't want to be frying cables or worse, the van 🤔. Cool is cool, hot is not 👍

[@kestonmendez4290]

Thanks for taking the time to run down everything... Awesome job!! Just surfing the web for the fun of it. Now, you make me want to play with my toys... hehhehe

[@sandrafarrell3657]

Very helpful and clear to understand. I have been searching a long time on internet wondering if my 240 hook up was charging my leisure battery or not.. I bought the camper van privately and I was unsure. I think this is very helpful you have covered so much for me who has little knowledge about the electrics but a bit more savvy now. Thank you

[@dleon0902]

Thank you. The most detailed explanation yet a level directed to the layman.

[@Jester2All]

I love how you paused to get ice cream 😁 Your channel has been very helpful and I just found it and subscribed today

[@DaveGannon-p5b]

Great video. Really appreciate you doing this for me and others in the process of converting a van

[@Andy001z]

Great informative video. I had a very similar setup in my first build, nice to see a few extra options and the information about the new alternator types is priceless. Thanks

[@garethlewis3647]

Excellent video. Ideal for someone starting out. Many thanks for your work in educating us.

[@HughTube]

thank you too Gareth!

[@Vilhyto]

Good video, gives me ideas for my Sprinter stealth van. Already ordered some stuff for next upgrade on electronics. Here in Finland we call these white terminal blocks 'suger cubes'

[@edilbertoduarte9221]

Thank you first video that really explains every detail

[@rajjones2171]

Thank you very much. Your video was very informative and I will apply this to my enclosed trailer build.

[@beverleydryland1146]

Thankyou Hugh very responsible and informative video x Delica owner in Bunbury western Australia x

[@lauralane5366]

Hi, I have found your videos really helpful so thank you for that. Currently working on my 12v system in my conversion. I have 8 12v 3w LED spotlights. I have wired them in two sets of four in parallel using some wago connectors. I am struggling with a lot of flickering on a few of my lights. I have tried to re crimp connections, increase wire size and different fuse sizes but nothing has worked. Just wondering if you have any suggestions on what may be going wrong. Many thanks!

[@bencook3430]

Excellent, very comprehensive video. Thank you.

[@seanfallon4580]

The best video I've ever watched you explain everything in simple terms Thanks a lot Hugh 😊

[@ZX600E7]

The blue shore power socket is correct. The extension lead to a bollard has male and female at each end. The bollard has the flap too. It's so that the cable when attached to the mains does not have exposed pins.

[@SppynktAK]

This my pedigree chum was friggin awesome. Thanks bro lot of knowledge gained. Hefty amount of time you put into this I can imagine. Thank you 🤘🤙🍀

[@martinsharp7657]

Great videos I am on my first van build and your videos are a must go to. The electrics was explained so simply. Never even heard of smart alternators till now so an education.

[@mattmunkey6871]

Great video. As I do commercial electrical and don’t touch auto electrical it was good to see how basic it was. I think good kit is a must. Ty.

[@andybaker973]

Hi Hugh , quick point. The best way to isolate your solar is to use a DC rotary isolator to interrupt pos and neg between your panel and your solar controller. Please advise people to check is their Circuit breaker (MCB) is DC rated as many are not.. Cheers

[@joedunne6737]

Thanks dude, just what I was looking for. Great info.

[@vaneboating4949]

Fantastic video, very clear and practical

[@bparker86]

New here.... But I love love love the commitment to only spreading good safe information. That's dedication man. Subbed and followed good day

[@nickhigson7540]

Hi Hugh! Dare I say it but this most excellent 'simplicity ' vlog of yours has given me multiple light bulb moments of inspiration as a newbie with that normal fear of electrics. Many thanks. Be safe, Be well my friend.👍👍

[@johnwilky6155]

Hi . Fantastic clear understandable video. Helped me immensely. Thankyou.

[@HughTube]

Cheers John

[@jimgreen9909]

Cheers mate, understood all things hopefully got me sorted

[@Eddtheduck17]

This is a superb video mate. Thank you

[@czeque]

Great intro into the topic, thanks!

[@billgregory1189]

Great explanation nice and easy, keep it simple 👍

[@adammills52]

Very good video definitely 1 of the best Ive seen thank you

[@edwardbehan7295]

HI Hugh, thank you for this great upload, can i please ask, will the VCR charge both my leisure batteries or would i need 1 for each battery, thanks ever so much

[@rikkiesix]

Loved it. Very clear. Thx man

[@thegrumpybusinessman3400]

Awesome video. Great stuff. Thank you.

[@msf60khz]

Very useful video. Thank you. I notice you do not have a main battery fuse, so there are some pieces of thin wire potentially exposed to the full output of the battery. For instance the wire going to the solar controller. Maybe the chances of something happening are remote.

[@CJamesPhoto]

So helpful! Thank you 😊😊

[@aaroncallinan7754]

Big thanks Hugh, great video - so straight to the point and clearly done.

[@HughTube]

Thanks!

[@jedidahwaithira9915]

@@HughTube hey maybe u can help me i have a 200ah batterie i have 100ah fuse braker but when i connect mt lights the small fuse blow 30ah i dont get it thanx

[@joedunne6737]

A great way to connect wires are the American wire nuts, fast, secure and used extensively on everything electrical. Don't know why we haven't accepted them on this side.

[@HughTube]

Not sure are they secure, as in how much tension can be put on the lines before pulling apart?

[@bjsorensen]

How do you determine the fuse size coming off the starter battery?

[@AcidDotCom]

You need to know what is the amperage that the leisure battery will be charged with. You will probably see that on the DC to DC relay documentation. Also, remember that the main job of the fuse is to protect the cable/wire, so it must be little 'weaker' then the cable itself. All appliances should be protected by their own fuses. I guess that this is your question here :) Unless you are actually asking for a fuse on a battery that goes to the starter...this is whole another story. these can vary from 250A to even 500A fuses and sometimes starters are connected directly to avoid any additional connections in the circuit (only in really big or power demanding engines though)

[@jrewillis]

Excellent really helpful video. Thank you mate

[@elliottasbury4667]

Excellent tutorial. Thank you so much!!

[@danmark4038]

Great work ! What about a 50 amp fuse between the battery and the battery isolator?

[@HughTube]

You can add a fuse between the isolator and battery but it would need to be much higher than 50a for a lot of systems, especially if using an inverter. I would suggest more around the 150a range but this is all dependent on your system and usage

[@jonathonmilliken8019]

Would you use a breaker switch instead of shut of switch between fuse box and battery? How do you determine what amperage if so? Or are these the same thing? Cheers for the layman's guide keep up the good work.

[@HughTube]

to simplify the setup you could 100% use a breaker switch: www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1258/category/60 this would knock out two jobs with one stone. The amperage takes a bit of consideration, on the distribution board you need to add together all the fuses to find the total and then your breaker should be a little higher in amperage than this. so as an example: If I was using 6 ports, two with 15a fuses and the other four with 10a fuses then the total of all those is 70a so I would get an 80a switch breaker and use cable between the battery, switch and distribution board that can handle at least 90a. You also need to know what the max amps that the dist. board can handle but this one shown can handle 100a: www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1052/category/63 so we would never overload it

[@davidcoton2925]

Hi ya! Loved the simplicity of your video, BUT, any mains work should be done by an electrician as the mains board connections must be tightened up to the correct torque and Rcd must be tested to ensure safe operation. Also the cable from your 12v board to the neg bus bar is not rated for the 20a fuse. The battery fuses also need to be as close to the batteries as close as possible. Your set up has no safety fuse between the leasure battery and switch, so if there is a fault between this battery and the solar charger you have a fire in your van/boat/caravan.

[@HughTube]

Hi David, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge!

[@stephenmcateer4243]

Massive thanks, this is brilliant !

[@alastair8257]

Utterly brilliant...nice one Hugh, great video. I'm just a keen viewer tempted by the vanlife/perhaps forced following covid times, and while the topic was timed perfectly, I absorbed it which is key so thank you. Absorbed it as in listened, just don't test me! ;) I don't supose you do consultancy/supervised builds or full conversions by chance!? Wow that progressed fast from being a keen viewer to asking about builds...haha! Thanks again for making the video

[@HughTube]

thank you so much, for any custom work or info contact me at [e-mail]

[@whysosalty]

great video, super helpful and possibly the best one out there currently.

[@danbracebridge1582]

Great video- I’ll be referring back to this a fair bit once I start running cables👍 Maybe an add on video about actual location of all the components in an ‘average’ van?

[@patrickh7368]

Fabulous explanation and details..thanks. I’m not a leccy expert but an engineer so educate myself before pressing ahead. Looking at the 3x different charge input to leisure battery, if all 3 are active is it possible that the battery “gets it from all angles” so to speak voltage wise ?

[@PaulFarrell04]

Hi, connect the neg terminal to the body and put the cut off on that cable. Ground all the earth wires to the body

[@philelmes6967]

Great vid. When fitting an inverter, do you earth it to the chassis? I've read some conflicting things about doing it and NOT doing it.

[@davep8664]

Yes, if possible. You don't really want 230/240v door handles/anything metal should a bad circuit take place.

[@HughTube]

Hi Phil, I would always follow the manufacturers instructions unless told otherwise but a qualified electrician. Personally I would always earth it yes

[@deang5622]

If you are connecting to the chassis....the chassis is not earth because the tyres of the vehicle are made of rubber, so the vehicle is electrically isolated from the physical earth. And anyway, trying to earth anything on the vehicle by literally making a connection to the physical earth is totally pointless unless you have an electrical feed of power into the vehicle from another source. It's all a question of terminology. You are not earthing anything. What you are doing is using the chassis of the vehicle as a common connection point to take the current from various loads and take it back to the battery. It's a "chassis ground" , not an earth.

[@bpcamping2707]

Hi Hugh,sorry to disturb your break!.but have a question I brought a 120w solar kit, can I connect it together, and instead of connecting it to the battery, to my c.tec solar points??. Great video and Happy new year!

[@HughTube]

Hi, if you have a solar kit then I am guessing they have also provided a solar charger? the CTEK doesn't need a solar charger between the panels and itself you can connect the solar panels directly to the CTEK solar ports, just remember to add a fuse on the positive line between the solar panel and the CTEK

[@VwRosstorations]

Nice edit...👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

[@chrissyb85]

Excellent video! Simple, clear and easy to follow 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@moose1419]

Brilliant video. My only recommendation would be to use a fully insulated terminal for those rocker switches. Nothing wrong with the ones you've used but I just feel they give you that little bit of extra protection. Like I say great video and I'm in no way criticising you 👍

[@HughTube]

Cheers Moose no you're totally correct, not sure which timestamp you're referring to but I add about insulating the terminals to prevent potential shorts etc.

[@geko7844]

This is exactly the video I was looking for. The CTEK dual charger is also exactly what I wanted but until you know the name of something it’s nearly impossible to find! 😅 Thank you

[@crysa9995]

You're brilliant! Thank you!

[@juergen2261]

Great explanations !

[@samuilpavlov]

Thank you for the great straightforward info! Best video on the topic! Did I get it right: if I get the CTEK D250SE I do not need a seperate solar controller? Thanks again!

[@stewraz101]

Thanks for showing a 12v setup on a plan layout, rather than in the actual car where its impossible to follow things via video. One question please, the negative terminal on the fuse box, does this have to go back to the battery, or can it just go to an earth somewhere on the chassis?

[@gashead2]

Wow, great information thank you

[@frodos-shed]

incredibly detailed video, really helpful. just a quick, stupid question: if you've got a smart alternator and go down the CTEK route, do you still need a voltage sensing relay inline afterwards? or does the CTEK do the same job and take the relay out of the equation all together?

[@HughTube]

Hi Paddy, so the CTEK will mean you DON'T need a vsr which is why I like the CTEK system. Compact and simple to use

[@zx10rmac84]

Awesome info lad ✌🏻🇬🇧

[@MarkFugel]

ok Hugh...i have a stupid question...maybe i am missing something...i have a battery...connected to a bus box...then i added a switch panel with 6 rocker switches and usb and 12v plug. If i then want to hook up my led lights...do i hook it up to my bus box or to my switch panel or both. Whatever i did...i seem to have power to the led lights but they are always on and not able to turn on and off with the rocker switch. Any help is greatly appreciated. Your video was simply awesome!

[@lifeboxedin2606]

Brilliant hugh, thanks

[@lucapelati]

Thank you so much for the video, it was a big help as I’m approaching an electrical update to my new caravan. I have a question if possible, and sorry if it’s a stupid one: the caravan is connected to the car with a cable, that cable it’s supposed to control directional lights, brake light and more. I think that it also charges the leisure battery when the car is on (you showed that in the video) how do I know which cables I can use to charge and which one are going straight to the lights? Are the break lights and so on separated from my rv circuit?

[@Noobybaba]

Hi, thank you for a great insight into this. We are in the process of upgrading the living in a horse truck. How would I overcome the 24v charging system to allow a 12v leisure battery. Thanks in advance!

[@Olly3pow]

Awesome, Thank you very much ✌🏽

[@manouchehromari2483]

Very simple and helpful 🙏🙏👍🏻

[@NomaddUK]

That was a very tight, squeaky fart at 33:16. Took Hugh totally by surprise.

[@sheilaoman9949]

Hi Hugh, great video (again) Do you have a list of all the components needed for the installation ......and the cost ? Thanks.

[@HughTube]

Hi Sheila during the video there are quotes for prices at time the video was released but every system costs a different amount. If you have a system in mind for your van i could give you a rough parts cost if you email me at [e-mail]

[@usefullprintables]

Very good video !Grtz Belgium

[@HughTube]

thank you!

[@mayamaxwell1988]

Love the videos Hugh! Just a quick question ... how do we cable size the grounding from the battery to chassis? Not sure if this is a stupid question and we are really over thinking things 😅? Thanks anyway

[@HughTube]

I depends on usage so as an example if you use an inverter your ground cable may come with your inverter and it would be much thicker. With the ground cable there isn't really any issue going too big so I would oversize, I use cable that can handle 140a

[@nachtvacht8210]

Cheers mate. Very clear explanations!

[@ZX600E7]

Positive from the charger should go to the battery terminal. If not, it'll be supplying the vehicle 12v leisure system

[@markjarvis9780]

I’m just about to wire my van conversion, and I’ve brought a kit and with is was a pre made control panel with what looks like built in fuses on the back. So in theory I don’t need the distribution board you wired into. Just a bit confused how to do it as most videos only show it by using the distribution board 🙈

[@HughTube]

I think I know the panel you're referring to with red fuse holders at the back. in this case you need one larger fuse on the positive in but yes each switch has its own fuse so no need for distribution board

[@johndaniel5880]

Great video, thank you very much. Just one question, if I am on hookup how does the system know whether to charge the batteries via the charger or the solar panels?

[@MonaichFother]

3:46 Can you make the nagative for this additional battery the car body? It means I wouldn't need to run a negative cables back to the fuse board. Like, on a foglght the negative lead need only to be 3 inches long, bolted onto the van body. The charge circuit is wired that way afterall.

[@jakeblake_vwt4dub]

Great video thank you👍

[@Sub_Divisions]

Great video mate love it.I have bought a converted van which I want to upgrade the electrics because there isn't any fuse box just inline fuses which isn't very practical or tidy also the main power cable from the van battery is very thin..A couple of questions I have are my leisure battery is a AGM 95ah what would you suggest the fuse/circuit breaker from the starter battery?.....I would prefer to have circuit breakers rather than fuses and my 2nd question is what gauge cable did you use in your video? Could I use 16mm2 ? Cheers Andy

[@stuartfill6601]

Hi. Really enjoy your videos. What would i need to charge 2 130ah batteries? Can i use the same VSR as i would with one 130ah battery?

[@HughTube]

Yes you could use the same VSR to charge two batteries in parallel so they are still 12v but double capacity

[@stuartfill6601]

Thanks for the reply. Thats very reassuring.

[@jamesbailey4798]

Hi there great video. Something I am wondering that I haven't seen covered in videos is is there any clear way if knowing how much charge is left in a 12v battery?