Chevy 2.4L engine HHR Drive Belt Tensioner and Drive Belt Replace.

[@three8teen538]

Thanks for the tutorial. It came in handy. I used a 1x2 furring strip(wood) and jacked it w/ a floor jack to release the tension to get the belt off/on. If your tensioner bolt isn't aligned as shown in the video (resulting in having to raise the engine via the oil pan to get it back in alignment(also shown in the video)), then it seems the motor mount is toast from what I'm hearing. I had the exact same issue as shown in the video. Thankfully they're not that expensive, but the issues never end. Also the little nipple thing that you have to match w/ the tensioner and the block has some play in it (even the old one did). So it moved around 1/4" up/down. I made sure it was down as far as it could go and then tightened it to the 33 ft lb tq spec. That confused me when I noticed it. I got the "DAYCO 89316" tensioner for $21.79 @ rockauto (closeout special (+ $8 or so in shipping)) and it worked just fine. Got a continental belt from autozone which has a split in it after 200 or so miles. So I'm going to have to take that to them and see what the issue is. The belt issue happened before I did the tensioner swap (was waiting on it getting shipped to me (so I didn't do them all @ the same time)). So maybe that had something to do with it (using the bad tensioner w/ the belt for 200 or so miles).

[@SteveAZ711]

Great input on repair thanks! Continental belts are supposed to be very good. It is unusual for it to do that.

[@Anonymous-it5jw]

Great camera angles and views of a job that can be both difficult and frustrating without your tips and planning. Shortening the tensioner tool to a manageable length is such a great idea that many of us would not think of it, but would struggle with trying to use a ratchet, which is almost impossible to do successfully. Using the bottle jack instead of a floor jack is genius; using a long punch to keep the tensioner in place long enough to pick up the bolt and wrench, and get the bolt started, is a tip from experience, but hard to think of when you are wrestling that alligator and losing. Thanks for showing us what happens when you try to do the job following the manual's instructions. This is a gem of a video on a frustrating job on any 4 cylinder Ecotec-type engine - mine is in a 2010 Equinox. I was outside last night, in the driveway in the rain and darkness, getting ready to reinstall the old tensioner assembly after resetting the valve timing, but before I found this video. In the light of my headlamp, I first noticed that the housing that bolts to the block was cracked and broken; today I'll get a new tensioner assembly and follow your method. Thanks so much for this video and for rescuing me from the frustration and wasted time that always seems to come with anything related to the serpentine belt on these engines. P.S. To those wary of cutting off the tensioner tool - once it's shorter, you can always get the length and leverage back by using a piece of steel pipe or a box-end wrench as a cheater. P.P.S. Steve - to increase viewership of this great video, please add "Ecotec-type 2.4L engine" to the title.

[@SteveAZ711]

Thanks for the very kind comment! This is the longest comment I have ever received on a video. I hope others will read this as you point out some important tips. Know that I will take your advice and add that description to this video. Thanks Again!

[@anthoniusalphaproject1588]

Perfect video to solve the problem in my car, appreciate your teaching!!!

[@SteveAZ711]

Great to hear!

[@gristlevonraben]

Thank you, rod in the pulley bolt hole helps me figure out how to do it. Working at midnight, didn't want to wake my wife to hold parts. 😄

[@SteveAZ711]

Thanks! It is nice to have help when you can. Best to leave sleeping wives alone though!

[@PappysCorner]

You know this HHR inside and out...!!!... Good job.!!.. these vids will pay off down the road.!!

[@SteveAZ711]

Thanks Pappy! Great and wise compliment!

[@StrongEnough78]

Thank you for sharing your video. I want to ask, when you used the wood block and jack to raise the engine, did you have to loosen or remove the motor mounts? I know you didn't show that in the video but I thought I'd ask. Thank you in advance!

[@SteveAZ711]

No I did not. I only needed a little bit or raise.

[@gabekozak6536]

Thanks!

[@ariellewalls9585]

What’s the yellow thing he used??

[@SteveAZ711]

Hi Arielle, the yellow is my Cob flashlight. It sticks on with a magnet to help me and my camera see better. Thanks.

[@dukesworld3020]

Too close for my fat hands, LOL, Good job!!

[@SteveAZ711]

Yeah they need to make bigger engine bays or smaller engines for our meat hooks.

[@onlocationwithscott]

Hey Steve...do you have ant original parts left in that HHR? LOL Nice job on the belt

[@josepablo6309]

Hello any one that owes a hhr ever have the funny weird noise coming out engine mine sounds like diesel engine, and yes oil is fine

[@SteveAZ711]

Do a code scan and look for error codes that may cause mixture or timing issues. Check out this link for some more information...www.chevyhhr.net/forums/2-4l-performance-tech-14/sounds-like-diesel-after-timing-chain-replacement-56942/

[@MissouriOldTimer]

There's sure not much room to work in there.

[@SteveAZ711]

Yep, they design them so you need speciality tools anymore. Or tiny hands. If you got both then you're good to go. LOL