Choosing A Racing Turbo For Your Cummins!

Part 2 of our turbo talk! This is a continuation of the last video where we discussed street style turbos. In this video I give my thoughts and experiences with race only style turbos. Stuff that is going to operate in the 1300-3000 horsepower ranges where drive-ability isn’t a factor and over all performance and reliability is the goal! If you guys are liking these turbo discussions and want more in depth or specific coverage, be sure to drop a comment in the video telling me what you’d like to see!

[@savagefabrication795]

Awesome video I made headers for these from 2015-2019, the main lesson learned was the poor reputation for them stemmed from them being incorrectly designed for the application in both durability and performance. I guess it may be implied aswell but a little tech tip is you cannot wg a turbos drive to boost to be ideal and hit a pre determined pressure target on any turbo, example is your turbo is at 40 psi and 80 psi drive, a wg won’t drop drive one to one as that particular turbo on your engine requires that much exhaust energy to net that output. So getting the wheel set /housing figured out for your application and then wg it at the ideal condition you need is the goal. This is just a general trend but the larger the charger gets vs engine size generally the more pressure ratio you can run with drive being in check. Mmmm would be cool maybe to look at a g meter vs drive to boost down the track? And shaft speed vs engine rpm vs pressures. Or g meter vs different torque converter setups.

[@LoganbuiltRaceShop]

The G meter is imo the most valuable single sensor you can have on a race truck/racecar. The goal is basically to make the g meter go as high as you can, as fast as you can and hold it there as long as you can while doing all that as smooth as possible. Drag racing simplified into 1 sentence lol. Every other sensor/piece of data you have is just a tool to improve that g meter graph. I have admittedly ignored drive pressure by and large for the majority of my racing life thus far. I have learned this past year how important it is. I have really changed my mindset on the way I view the engine as a whole. I use to believe that I just wanted the engine and components to be robust and “in the ballpark” of what you need for making the power desired. Then doing the rest with nitrous and making the chassis and every other aspect of the run as best as possible. Now, this engine failure of mine is forcing me to do a deeper dive and I’ve come to terms that I want to make the engine as efficient as I feasibly can working within my mental & financial limits. Therefore relying far less on nitrous and other “band aids” we could call them. Treating the engine/turbo/fueling just like I do the rest of the truck/chassis, making it as absolutely efficient as possible.

[@bcbloc02]

Drive pressure shows up in boost pressure so drop drive boost will go with it by some amount but it isn't linear. Ideal is to always more boost than drive but that is very difficult to achieve unless you only run in a very narrow rpm window.

[@dnrcustoms06]

Great Video Dude, very informative!

[@LoganbuiltRaceShop]

Thanks Derek!

[@jeroddbock]

The sound is super quiet so at 7:20 I about shit my pants

[@LoganbuiltRaceShop]

😂 I have been struggling with the echo in the garage, but I should have the audio corrected moving forward now!

[@monsterram6617]

It would be great if you could do something like this on compounds.

[@LoganbuiltRaceShop]

I don’t have any real world experience with compounds in a racing application. I just could theorize on what I think would work but it would be pure speculation and I’m not a fan of putting out info that I don’t have direct experience with

[@monsterram6617]

@@LoganbuiltRaceShop Does that mean you have experience with compounds in street applications?

[@LoganbuiltRaceShop]

@@monsterram6617 I do but it’s very limited. I ran an hx35 over ht3b compound set up on my race truck back when it was a VE street truck. It made 321hp 840ftlbs on a dyno in 2013. I built that set up in 2012. Ran the truck for less than a year in that configuration and then tore it down to start building it into what it is today. That was the only set of compounds I was ever hands on with.