Choosing an Oxygen Acetylene Torch

[@chrisandthevegetables6358]

Ive never been so relaxed looking at torch reviews, thanks George, helps me refine my choice!

[@hendonburgism]

Found a used set of prestoweld w109 tips and finally got a w109 handle. It is now my favorite torch and definitely the oldest. It's an unusual aircraft torch in that it has both knobs on opposite sides of the top of the handle (shaped like a cross).

[@stocks4bt]

You and weldingtipsandtricks really know how to teach the BASICS..keep up the good work from B'ham AL

[@markwhelan6511]

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.i have just started brazing and found this very helpful

[@897473]

Mark,good to hear the videos are helping. You can find a complete list of my KZbin videos here. Scroll down for the brazing videos. gsegmedia.com/?page_id=2877

[@897473]

As for buying, renting, leasing cylinders - that's not an easy question as welding supply companies have different policies. Sometimes it is difficult or impossible to get one company to fill another companies cylinders. It some states it is illegal. I'd suggest deciding on what company you want to deal with and see what kind of programs they have for cylinders. I own all my cylinders. Over time this is the least expensive although the upfront cost is a bit steep.

[@Comm0ut]

I would like to see a copy or link to any such law. Company POLICY of course varies. I buy my (many over time having no reason not to) industrial gas cylinders used after researching what my local welding suppliers will refill or exchange. Far cheaper than leasing or buying new, and because I exchange them immediately I have current hydro dates and fresh stickers from my local suppliers.

[@FranconiaFriend]

Thanks. I'm presently taking a steel furniture class through the Art League in Alexandria, VA. We are doing oxy welding. Hope to get my own rig shortly.

[@897473]

"Steel Furniture Class" - that sounds interesting. Let me know when you get your rig set up.

[@denisehallgren3830]

Hi George, I have just discovered your videos and I LOVE them! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and expertise with the world. I have a couple questions: 1. I have watched at least a dozen of your videos and you haven't mentioned "quenching" in your annealing process. I was taught some basic metal working techniques by a blacksmith and always quench. Can you tell my why I should or should not quench? 2. Do you use any pigments to color your work? I'm looking for some info on a transparent enamel (?) for say, copper palm fronds. Thanks again, your videos are great! Denise

[@897473]

Denise, thanks for encouraging comments. I prefer not to quench. It is just a personal preference. I don't like water on my welding table. While the piece is air cooling I can be doing other things. For blacksmiths working with heavier metal quenching is almost a must.. One situation where I might quench is with flame coloring copper. Quenching will often lock in the color. Transparent Enamel - do you mean copper enameling? Let me know. George

[@johndonahue1935]

I use the victor J27 & J28 mixing (aircraft torch) for small welding and brazing work, and I much prefer the Airco dual stage regulators for Oxygen and Actylene.

[@AlphaOmniscience]

Those odd uniweld tips are for brazing pipe without lighting stuff behind it on fire. We love them in HVAC.

[@andrewbradford8474]

Never thought about that - neat!

[@897473]

These were given to me and I've never had an application where they were applicable.

[@aaronfox6874]

Thank you George, great video!

[@897473]

Aaron, we are fortunate that there are so many options available.

[@897473]

Greeting from Indiana: I don't think I ever did a video using the Rosebud. I only use the rosebud if I am annealing a LARGE piece of copper. You are right, it is a large flame. Too large for small pieces of copper.

[@andrewgolub1347]

Hello George, Can you do a video on Torch tips and types, and the interchangeability of the different torches and tips? Than you for your video!

[@897473]

thanks for the comment!

[@beverlyleano-bascos4051]

thanks for sharing this verry informative video sir,,,,i really appreciate..

[@897473]

You are most welcome. Good to hear that the video is informative.

[@MikeSpille]

Thank you for posting this fine video, My Goehl

[@douglasthompson2740]

Hello George, Well I have egg on my face. It is indeed a Performer J100. As I found when I dug out the box. My supplier years ago referred to it as the "junior" maybe as a shorthand for the "J" in the J100. I had just used that designation without thinking about it for the past 45 years. I see in my original pamphlet that there was a "medium duty" model as well and then the Journeyman which they designated as heavy duty. Sorry for my error. But I still can find in all the 45 years of searching an adapter or way of running a rose bud on it. I even tried the imports to see if they would fit. Take care. Doug

[@897473]

Douglas, yeh, I know. I get something fixed in my mind and feel like it is the absolute truth and then find out differently.

[@897473]

Donatocs, glad that the video was helpful. Keep in touch for more videos coming up.

[@douglasthompson2740]

Well if there is I missed such an adapter. And I have tried many. Take care. Doug

[@94Zero]

George, very nice video. The 2000 is a fantastic gun.

[@897473]

+94Zero thanks for viewing. Yes, it is a good torch.

[@douglasthompson2740]

I may be wrong but it seems at the time my lightweight one was the Junior (I still have the box) and the next one up was the "journeyman" the medium sized one. We had those on ships and in the various shops. Maybe they were WestCoast names? Doug

[@897473]

West Coast: Back in the 70's and 80's Victor was in Denton Texas (if my memory is correct). I once had an old set of Victor Regulators with San Francisco printed on the gauge faces. That may be where your' junior come from. First Victor outfit I bought was in about 1971 and it was labeled as "performer". I think it was a J-100.

[@donatocs]

thank you for sharing your knowledge, this has been very helpful!

[@5809AUJG]

Could you advise me on the size(s) of oxy and acetylene canisters you use with your Victor Performer welding outfit? I'd like to know the amount/square footage needed of each gas in each canister you require in creating your beautiful sculptures. In your larger works, do you need refills for your gas canisters? Thank you for your marvelous videos. Your sculptures are a feast for the eye! I'm working to graduate from soldering to art welding, and will be purchasing a Victor Thermodyne Performer torch outfit soon. I'm learning through books and your videos, starting out small, on basic techniques you show.

[@897473]

Oxygen Acetylene cylinders that I use take up about 1 square foot each. Once you have a set of cylinders you can take them to your supplier and exchange them for another set that have been filled. Contents of cylinders is measured in cubic feet of compressed gas (oxygen & acetylene). A mid sized set of cylinders contain about 125 Cubic feet per cylinder. You can get larger and smaller cylinders depending on how much oxygen acetylene you plan to use. Example: Welding & Brazing heavy metals such as 1/4" and above will require larger amounts of gas to be used. Welding or Brazing lighter metals will take less. Thanks for your comments. Have fun!

[@SuperKwame1]

Thanks G. Goehl, Great job and the videos.

[@k.r.woodward2360]

Thanks so much. Exactly the information I have been looking for.

[@dalehumphrey4264]

uniweld is made for HVAC techs for brazing copper pipes

[@usernamemykel]

Years ago, because of your great teaching and artwork, I began the journey, on my patio. But, I'm afraid of oxy-acetylene usage, as in "explosion". I don't have a shed or garage, but a patio in a HOA community, so I've kept the tanks in my townhouse, which also makes me feel unsafe. Need I be afraid??

[@897473]

I think you should check out The "American Welding Society". You can find them online along with numerous safety references. You can also ask your oxygen acetylene dealer for safety information. You owe it to yourself to get some answers from an authoritative source.

[@usernamemykel]

George Goehl Thank you!

[@martinblouin3639]

thank you George! really nice work btw!

[@897473]

Martin, thanks for viewing and commenting.

[@johndonahue1935]

The acetylene cutting torch is great for steel fab. I use the plasma torch for stainless steel and light gauge sheet metal. I can't stress enough how important it is to keep your cutting tips clean center hole and preheat holes. your tip needs to make a long oxy stream through the flame just like a new tip. Always use the smallest tip practical keep torch close cut slightly fast and throttle oxy stream when beginning the cut. My cuts rarely need much grinding. Never cut with a dirty tip. When your torch pops your doing it wrong. Read more

[@rematrixed]

John Donahue the the

[@denisehallgren3830]

Hi George thanks for the quick response. I know what you mean about the water, it can make a rusty mess of things. On the enamel, yes for copper. I was at the Art Harvest in Dunedin, FL a couple weeks ago and saw a metal artist that had applied transparent color pigments to the copper it looks great and will probably protect from tarnish. Which leads me to another question, tarnish. I have had some luck with dipping in clear polyurethane and hanging to dry on small pieces. It gets a nice heavy coat and seems to work well with copper but never with brass. What do you use to retain your colors?

[@897473]

Denise, the only colors I try to keep are the ones on copper. I lose a bit of color when I clear spray. For this reason I will often repeat the coloring two or three times until I get the most vivid colors possible. Which means that if I don't like the coloring I will wire brush back to clean copper and start over again. Then when I spray I will lose a bit of color but still be pretty good. I only color leaves and butterflies. There are some people on the web that are doing some fantastic coloring. Much more controlled then what I do. I don't like working with brass, so I am not much help. George

[@andyvan5692]

hi, the word "like" typically means a re-engineered or reproduced version, in cameras, radio's, etc. we (in Australia) call it a 'knock-off" made by china,Russia, Africa and the like, of poor quality, cheaper metals (aluminium instead of steel, magnesium); hence the saying "buy nice, or buy twice". "like" is also an internet term for an affection for something, not a love, but something less, ie: to "press the 'like' button" ( I have Autism, so don't get which sense of the word you are reffering to).

[@brxtmp106]

George, Really appreciate your videos and especially the tips you give us. What is the flexible hose you reference at the end of this video. Is it a smaller diameter or a particular brand? I've seen some hose referenced as "super flex" and my local welding supply carries 1/4" and 3/16" hose.

[@897473]

+brxtmp106 Not sure what the specification is on that hose. I have a new one still in package. Will look tomorrow and get back to you.

[@897473]

+brxtmp106 Hose: 3/16" Grade "R" 12.5 ft. "Anchor Brand" by NASCO

[@brxtmp106]

Thanks...on my way to LWS in an hour! :D

[@1873Winchester]

The Henrob was news to me, I have investigated it after reading what you said and it seems like a great torch. Though I can't help wonder if you couldn't do almost as well with a small conventional torch, the right welding tip and pressures for acetylene and oxy set to 4psi as with the Henrob?

[@897473]

+1873Winchester The conventional torch has been around for a long time. It will do about anything a torch can do. Sounds like you are happy with what you have, so there is probably little reason for you to change.

[@1873Winchester]

+George Goehl Thanks, I don't really have any equipment in working order yet. Only my dads old torch and no gas and lots of missing stuff. I'm definitely going to see if I can start using this torch, currently restoring it, have bead blasted the equipment it looks almost new now, but if I have to buy something, the henrob looks interesting.

[@antoniopalafox3970]

awesome!! thank you!!

[@patallen2004]

I will be doing copper jewelry and would like to know what size tip I should use with OCT

[@897473]

What is OCT?

[@ozzstars_cars]

Great info, thank you

[@joel5372]

greeting from Indonesia, Thanks for sharing, i use victor performer :) , did u have demo for 4-MFA-1 Rosebud Heating Tip ? I still didnt use it, the fire is too big i think....

[@victor-emmanuel7485]

Thanks George! I’m wondering, is there a difference between american and european torches/ tanks? As I would love to order a Victor Performer... but don’t know if I will be able to use it on gas tanks in Belgium. Sorry for this newbie question... but there really isn’t much oxy acetylene information /many shops here in Belgium that I know of. Thanks in advance!

[@obfuscated3090]

I'll field that one since I rebuild OA apparatus. Your regulators and cylinder standards are different so I suggest ordering EU standard regulators and hoses then buying your torch separately IF you choose an American torch. TORCH OPERATING PRESSURES WILL BE THE SAME RANGE DUE TO THE NATURE OF ACETYLENE. The regulator steps down the CYLINDER pressure to suit the torch. (migwelding.uk is an excellent forum for EU welders and covers all processes. I suggest asking there re: what EU torches are any good.) The Performer is a mid-range torch but there is nothing special about them and their clones (Uniweld etc) made in the US are also good quality. I recommend you learn more about brands and models readily available in the EU. If you do want a US torch all you need do is connect it to your hoses which is quite simple and a matter of obtaining the right fittings. ESAB make excellent torches and now share a parent company with Victor. Check for local distributors. Also visit welding forums like Weldingweb and the Miller forums. WW has lots of excellent acetylene torch info. You need to visit your nearest welding supplier to obtain acetylene and oxygen so ask about torch outfits there.

[@victor-emmanuel7485]

Ob Fuscated Thanks a lot for your time and info!

[@victor-emmanuel7485]

Ob Fuscated I won’t even bother buyin the American equipment if I can find all the good stuff here in Belgium, it is just so damn hard to find information about them over here. 😅 I plan on using the torch for welding artwork, so a relative small one would be sufficient I presume. Now off to exploring the internet for more info about all the different ones! My goal would be to find one torch to do it all, a simple instrument that will last me a lifetime... Would you recommend a certain brand? Thanks a lot!

[@Comm0ut]

@@victor-emmanuel7485 Any decent welding torch will last a lifetime as there is nothing much to wear. Torches are like firearms, very much a matter of individual ergonomics. I prefer older US-made torches from the heyday of gas welding (1930s-1960s) but of course modern regulators. Smith, Victor, ESAB (and predecessor brands L-tec/Union Carbide/Linde/Purox/etc), Meco (defunct but available) and Harris are all good torches. Henrob/Dillon are an aquired ergonomic taste. Ebay is a good way to collect a variety.

[@joel5372]

Thanks for your info george :) , at now i have to buy victor propak turbo torch (LPG), it's seem the best for me... for heating, bend and brazzing not welding :)

[@malcolmmackenzie6764]

Great video! Thanks!

[@jackelliott861]

was your cobra torch trigger stiff? Thanks for the informal video your experience helped.

[@897473]

John, I've been using it for a number of years so I don't know whether it was stiff in the beginning or not. Now that you mention it, I don't use the trigger since I don't use the torch for cutting. I light the torch, adjust the flame and then hang it on the Gas Saver: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpjMimCVic-KftU

[@J4W358]

Is that larger victor nickel plated? I have been around torch and regulators my whole life and have never seen a Victor torch without a brass finish

[@897473]

Nickel plated - Yes. This torch handle came with a hard surfacing powder unit I bought 30 years ago. Haven't used since I did that video. Too big for the kind of work that I do. Have no idea why they plated the handle.

[@J4W358]

If it's of no use to you, do you have any interest in selling or trading it? It would go great in my collection

[@897473]

@@J4W358 Let me think about it.

[@Comm0ut]

@@897473 Many powder torches I've seen have plated components, perhaps for extra protection but I've not had a task to use my Eutectic-Castolin for to find out.

[@johndonahue1935]

The henrob looks super awkward I always try to rest my arms down on a table to make precision cuts how can you do that with the henrob

[@897473]

+John Donahue Yes, it does look awkward, but once I started using it I found it very comfortable. I has some advantages over traditional torches, but it is not for everyone. Sounds like you are well set up with what you have.

[@The_Conspiracy_Analyst]

get both, victor 100 series and victor 300 series. I got both for less than $100. THe 300 series I got was even a genuine Victor.

[@897473]

Interesting! Where did you get such great deals?

[@obfuscated3090]

Probably Ebay but I've done even better at estate and liquidation auctions and yard sales. US-made welding equipment is so durable I've got 1920s and 30s torches still apparently on the original seals that pass a ~150 psi inert (MIG mix or nit, whatever is next to me) gas pressure test (done with a simple Y-hose with common oxygen and acetylene hose barbs)! You can test them with clean, dry shop air too. My method is buy tarnished, dirty torches then clean them up while inspecting them.. Most buyers (I sell my excess) prefer shiny brass though it patinas back to normal in weeks. Most problems are with cutting attachments needing a seal kit, or in the case of Victor, a seat reaming (your local torch rebuilder can ream them, the reamers are deliberately overpriced and hard to find) . Most torch kit buyers only trash one or two welding tips of a set and there's almost nothing to screw up on the handle, though I'm impressed how few users know about tightening the gland nuts. I enjoy your videos. Keep 'em coming. (My nick on Weldingweb is "farmall".)

[@897473]

Well done! You've worked at it, to get what you want.

[@Comm0ut]

It's easy to get more OA gear than one needs but I collect it to use and to sample every variety of torch. BTW Uniweld are an old US company which make a variety of US-manufactured torches (the original patents are many decades expired) of the same quality as the more famous brands so keep an eye out for them too. Many sellers don't know about Uniweld and let them go dirt cheap. They have torches and tips to interchange with Victor and Harris among others. Their model 71 little torch is increasingly popular as it's a match for the little Victors and takes the same tips. For any little torch cheap I look for people selling used "HVAC" torch kits then zoom in on the torch in the photo to see which it is. That's got me a few Victor J-series.

[@The_Conspiracy_Analyst]

@@897473 Just now seeing this for some reason (way to go youtube development team). But yeah Ebay.

[@DerekGraham777]

iv got a question for you do i need a special regulatory for propane. or can i just use the same for acetylene im not really going to be using it to weld or anything more less just for cutting and heating the steel up

[@897473]

That I don't know. I've never used propane. Check with your local welding supply. Check with some of the cutting forums.

[@DerekGraham777]

Ok thanks it just my local welding supply shop are dumbass's last year i converted my Lincoln 100 so i could weld aluminum and they told me it is impossible to do and well i did it and it works great. But anyways thanks for the reply

[@897473]

I did see someplace that a fuel gas regulator will work with both acetylene and propane. But again, I have no personal experience.

[@DerekGraham777]

Ol thanks

[@redpost2380]

Very sad to read George Goehl passed away. RIP Master Craftsman

[@gabakbusiness]

what does LIKE means then?

[@jerryriggins123]

I just picked up some vintage victor and national gauges they look like they been sitting for years can i use them if they dont leak or should i get them rebuilt before using them.

[@897473]

Jerry, If it was me, I'd hook them up and see how they work. If the regulators start losing pressure, you will want to get them serviced. I've seldom had problems with torches. The outward appearance of the regulators and torch will give you some indication of their condition. If the regulators have broken glass or the torches has nicks in it, may indicate that they have had rough use. Victor torches and regulators are robust, especially the older models. You've probably made a good acquisition, even if you have to get them serviced. Check the threaded fitting to make sure there are no nicks in the threads. That's about all that I can think of at the moment.

[@jerryriggins123]

Thanks george! I tested the victor oxygen gauge and its solid and doesn't have any leaks.The national gauges for the acetylene looks like it had more use i haven't tested it yet but i think it will be ok.Thanks again

[@897473]

Sounds like you are good to go. Happy brazing and welding.

[@Comm0ut]

Seal-Seat has an excellent catalog of rebuild parts. Later Victor regulators are easily rebuilt. National is defunct but aftermarket parts may be available. I rebuild my own regs according to factory tech data and would keep any recent Victors but if the Nationals are bad I'd not bother as good used regs and cores for Victor, Smith, Airco/Concoa, Harris and ESAB are plentiful via Ebay.

[@geraldellis1177]

what is the cheapest one I can get

[@897473]

I don't have prices. If you are in the US, Harbor Freight will probably have the lowest prices.

[@yomommasgardener9648]

Victor

[@Comm0ut]

Cheap good or cheap junk? Acetylene and compressed oxygen are respectably dangerous. I scrap offshore generic junk torches and regs when they show up in auction lots to remove them from service (cutting torch mixer fires are common). "Cheap good" is any classic US make bought used. Facebook Marketplace often has deals with cylinders.

[@jinojin771]

I from indonesia, Thank you very much.

[@johnnylightning1491]

I think the word "like" means that it's designed like a Harris, like a Victor etc. What it's telling me is that it's a Harris or Victor knock off from overseas. Like many other things that are knock offs some are probably OK and some are absolute junk. None are likely as good as the real McCoy.

[@СергейГерман-ф6ч]

Fhanks

[@larryglasbrenner2263]

Сергей Герман ooo

[@914peru]

hi George but I don't see on the internet the famous vitor performer?

[@897473]

It's "Victor Performer". Do a Google search. There are lots of images, places to buy and general information.

[@JohnHampton]

"Like": To resemble something - a lookalike but not an original. Just thought I'd chime in with that, George. Maybe you can set your mind at ease now. Best wishes.

[@PeakyBlinder]

Model o puts all these to shame.

[@897473]

Thanks for your comment. I'd never heard of the "o" torch. Interesting.

[@lostintime8651]

this is a video you will want to speed up to watch. very good info but zzzzzz lol

[@897473]

Thanks for viewing. As you alluded to; life here moves at a slower pace.