Choosing the correct EliteDesk Mini power adapter

[@ytguy2010]

I'm picky too. I have to have 19.5V, not 19.0V. Some notes: 1. The adapters with the right-angle tips are meant for HP all-in-one computers. 2. The 18.5V adapter might be for a thin client, not sure. 3. The 19.0V adapters were used in the Core 2 Duo era of HP laptops and HP USDT's (ultra slim desktop). 4. You can go higher wattage if you find better prices. Eg. If a 180W or 230W adapter is cheaper than a 150W adapter then buy the cheaper one, as long as it's 19.5V. You should do a video on the hard drive mounting screws. I think G1/G2 use one kind of screw and G3 (and newer) use a different kind of screw.

[@handmedowntech]

Now I've met my match. Someone with even more interested in power adapters 👍. I was wondering where the right angle came from. And the SSD screws are an interesting thought too. Sometimes the small things are what can hang up a build.

[@MsNIKITA]

A "35W TDP" CPU doesn't pull 35W from the wall, it can actually pull anything from 50 to 60W and in some cases, even more! It depending on the class/model of processor and it's workload. The "35W TDP" part just means, the maximum potential heat the CPU can give off when used, hence Thermal Design Power. It's more of a reference to the type of cooling solution you'd need to tame the procesor, preventing it from overheating. This is why on a 35W TDP system you only get an aluminium finned heatsink with the copper slug and on 65W TDP systems you get the slightly heavier copper heatsink with a copper slug. In the UK the my EliteMini 800 G9 with T Sku system came with a 90W brick direct from HP. Another options here seems to be 130W for the 65W Sku or 150W/180W if you have certain high core count processors.

[@handmedowntech]

I feel a bit foolish. I'll make sure to research the TDP a bit more. It is true though that a 65W TDP processor will need something greater than a 65W adapter to operate? I know the system won't start and complain.

[@MsNIKITA]

@@handmedowntech Don't feel foolish Sir. No-one is borning knowing those techical things. You can check it yourself with a Kill-A-Watt meter, just connect it between the outlet and the computer plug then fireup various stress test applications. As for the 65W adapter, it depends on what the system is doing and what the microprocessor inside the PSU tells the computer. In some cases, you may get away with a 65W PSU brick of the system is merely idling, in other cases, the system will just beep at you. BTW, you can clean the sticky stuff off things using Isopropyl alcohol and some tissues.

[@handmedowntech]

@@MsNIKITA too kind. I actually do have a killawatt. I'll have to experiment.

[@yakovshtoots1134]

HI, Should i expect issues operating Elitedesk 800 G4 65W DM with 90W 19.5V 4.62A PS while specs shows 90W 19.5V 4.74A? BTW - i love your videos

[@handmedowntech]

I've always seen 4.62 for the 65w units. Even older generations. Check out the pics for this listing. www.ebay.com/itm/176573864151?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nn4BN22YR4O&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=AkrMEZQLSEC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY it shows the 4.62. if you've seen differently please let me know. Thanks for watching the channel.

[@tumirin4625]

So, is it ok to use 230 watt power adaptor for elitedesk G1-G4?

[@handmedowntech]

I have not seen a power adapter with that much juice. Where did you find it?

[@williamcody3415]

@@handmedowntech I have a 240W brick for my Dell Precision laptop. it has higher TDP CPU and 4 RAM slots, 3 drive bays, an MXM video card on board and so many ports for additional devices, so it would come with a 180W or 240W . also for your HP line I just picked up a 200 W HP adapter for a HP elitedesk G1 USDT. a 130 worked with a pentum and a laptop drive, but I put in a 2.5 and a mSata and a video card and max memory plus max CPU. damn thing just beeped at me. thought I bought bad parts... turns out I went over the 130 W capacity. the 200W made it happy again. I dont like angry PCs or girlfriends. just give em what they want and make em happy!! lol

[@williamcody3415]

YES. the brick CAN give as much as 230W but if the machine is only drawing 70 or 90 or 120 under load and say 42 at idle, then than any adapter rated higher than your max draw will give it what it wants. a 230W does not push 230 into it and fry it if that is your concern.

[@tumirin4625]

@@williamcody3415 what video card do you use? External video card?

[@williamcody3415]

@@tumirin4625 its not a 1L micro. old ultra small desktop. used an MXM style laptop GPU. getting a heat sync was a pain and I did all sorts of illegal and immoral things to wire up a fan for it. and duct tape. lol

[@Admin-11]

Thank you sir.

[@handmedowntech]

Most welcome

[@vnagaravi]

If you have those adapters, please share a clear image of the sticker and port. 📸 I'm trying to get a good image out of the video, but you hid it in every frame...☹️ And if you have time, please can you make a simple table with compatibility versus series? 📊 I'm happy to give you the image, but I don't have the data to make the table. 📝

[@handmedowntech]

Check the notes/links under the video - I added a link to a folder containing photos of the 65w, 90w and 150w adapters. Let me know if this works for you.

[@vnagaravi]

@@handmedowntech Can you add a connector picture?

[@handmedowntech]

Added a couple of views for the connector. It is the same for all of the adapters.

[@vnagaravi]

@@handmedowntech I got a 150W adapter from HP, but this is a different model. drive.google.com/drive/folders/146t79hgUeFOLTBbxbYdQtc3wSzifmNEs

[@handmedowntech]

It looks very close but the 150W I have is 19.5V and 7.7A - which I believe is the one used by the units using the K processors and also the GPU. Which unit are you trying to use this with?

[@hzoltan90]

What is the idle, idleish power draw of these mini pcs? (T cpu, 1 RAM, 1 nvme ssd 1 SATA HDD)

[@handmedowntech]

I'll have to connect it up with my killawatt to see. Might be able to test it this weekend.

[@hzoltan90]

Thanks :)

[@williamcody3415]

Amps x Volts = Watts if not labeled that is how you know. (19.5V X 7.7A = 150.15W) (19.5V X 4.62A = 90.09) etc IF processor is 35W + 2x 1.5V Dimms + 5 volt 2.5" HDD/SSD etc etc obviously a 35 or 45 will not work. AND how confusing they make it sometimes using Volts Sometimes AMPS and sometimes watts for those that dont know how those relate. Sometimes no boot and error code , sometimes a CPU throttling happens putting it in Limp mode at around 0.80 MHz. a 65W or even a 90W should fix this. using a 130W on a machine that only NEEDS a 65W to run is fine more is available but the unit will only draw what it needs .... dont worry about frying the unit because of an over sized brick. the brick does not PUSH 130 W into a machine needing 65 W thus burning it up. some people freak out about that. it is having a power brick with not enough capacity to give the machine what it is calling for. also if your killawatt shows under load you are drawing say 52W on a 65W brick... you are not maxing it out, but you are making it work up close to its capacity and maybe running hot. I would recommend just bumping up to a 90W adapter and letting it max out at just over half capacity and run cooler and last longer. You can always do math or guess but if you must know, go to the OEM page and look up the model and see what size came with the unit. If you are brand loyal and have multiple like this creator does, I do recommend LABELS in BIG letters to easily tell what capacity each is. I know for SOME that dont use this math a lot it gets confusing. it is essentially the same at home though. your house has 110V Power in the USA. your dryer may use 220V though lol its just 2 - 110V lines you will see a 2 space breaker is all.. but a portable heater on the box tells you it 1500W soooo uhhhh. same as a hairdryer. but the microwave is 1150W. so you go check the circuit panel and it says its a 20 AMP line WTF? lol they dont make it easy that way. Again AVW A x V = W and at your home 110 V is constant value. Each breaker tells you max across each circuit in amps So 110V x 15A = 1650W so the heater or hair dryer will work but if anything else is on that circuit, it might trip. and 110V x 20A = 2200W so on a standard single breaker 2200 watts is MAX total for that circuit. you cant run the heater and the hairdryer at full power together which is 3000W. Not talking down to anyone, just want to take some guess work out and show that once you learn how to do the very simple math, it works from house circuits to small computer stuff. it works the other way also... going FROM WATTS just DIVIDE will your 1150 W microwave work on a circuit? 1150W / 110V = 10.45A on a 20A breaker is fine even a 15 A BUT you have to add the other things on the same circuit and total them to see if all can run at same time. JUST LIKE one the computer with a CPU RAM HDD/SSDs video card etc. again not talking down to those that know this stuff and dont feel bad if you dont. I just helped a neighbor with this formula and MADE him on paper do the conversions in front of me until I saw his lightbulb go off. lol he had overloaded several circuits in his OLD house on old panel and just couldte figure out all the circuits tripping when something turned on while something else was running. we traced and labeled everything, ... well started labeling appliances but as we were he got very comfortable at figuring out what each value was that he didnt need to. in just a couple hours he was ballparking each value in his head.

[@handmedowntech]

This is really informative. I'm sure others knew this but I was totally clueless to that formula. Very helpful. Thank you.