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Here we are outside Bagrati Cathedral in Kutaisi, western Georgia, with Chveni Kvarteti (ჩვენი კვარტეტი), one of the Imereti region’s most prominent polyphony choirs.
The four men sing in perfect harmony beneath the cathedral’s enormous arches, serenading their hometown with a love song, ‘Kutais’o Kutais’o’, while their bandleader, Irakli Sirbiladze, gently fingerpicks a guitar. The cathedral is on Ukimerioni Hill and has breathtaking panoramic views of the city, framed by the beautiful Caucasus mountains.
Sirbiladze explains why Georgia is known for its vocal polyphony, which likely predates the introduction of Christianity in the fourth century. With ostinato formulas, rhythmic drones and colourful modulations, there’s a goosebump-inducing power to the music that varies from one region to the next.