Clematis Part 1 - Cutting, Wrist Strap, Body, Slip pocket

Blue Calla Patterns Link - bluecallapatter...?aff=6
My Facebook Group: / friendsofdebbyhunker

[@melissagillard9381]

Thank you SOOOO much for this step by step tutorial!!! I'm new to sewing and if I don't have step by step as a visual (video), I wouldn't be able to make anything!!! This is amazing!!! Thank you again & please keep making tutorials

[@decofilboutiqueatelier6226]

Hi Debby I 'm about to try this pattern too and I also printed out 2 pieces of each pattern pieces so I have it in one but I was wondering why you left a gap in between the 2 pieces of paper? Thank you for your help

[@funwithtoys3163]

Good question

[@corrisabate1481]

Aloha Debbie, My name is Corri, I'm from Hilo, Hawaii. I have been watching tutorials on how to sew bags, for awhile and made some also. Since watching your tutorials, I have been so happy with your ways, that's best work for you. I like how you teach and share. I have just completed my first Clematis Wristlet bag. And out of all the bags I have sewn. I must say I am happy, satisfied, and proud of myself of how I have sewn this bag. I Thank you for your time and teaching. Will be looking forward of more of your tutorials. As we say in Hawaii: Mahalo, Malama Pono ( Thank You and Take Care)

[@DebbyHunker]

Thank you so much for your kind words Corri! I’m so glad you are happy with your first Clematis, I’m sure you will make many more, just like the rest of us!

[@corrisabate1481]

Thank you for responding, I love your personality. I am trying to get on your FB group.

[@ohiogal6763]

Hi Debby. The wooden tool you're using is called a point press. It's used in garment sewing, tailoring, etc. You can use the flat base as a clapper. I have a suggestion to share for it's use. Before you turn the slip pocket right side out you'll use the point press to press open the side seams and top seam. With the bottom of the pocket open you'll be able to the point press inside. Pressing those seams open before turning really gives crisp edges and not as much fuss to poke out the upper corners.

[@BoojiePanda]

Thank you for the name of the tool! I was able to search for them on Etsy, and a lot of shops are selling them between $20 to $40 dollars (not padded) USD.

[@ohiogal6763]

I had pads, never used them. You'll gt a very crisp open seam on the wood.

[@lindab259]

Your teaching style is spot on! Thank you 👍👍👍👍👍

[@swr4him1]

I like how you used the seam for when you closed your wrist strap to use for stitching below your d-ring. This helps to keep that stitching straight. Also love that you use the pressing tool. I have used it more for purse seams than I have for other seams. I also found padded cover for it. It is a very old pressing tool and also have one formed almost like a ham on the top with legs and I can turn it to do round seams. Thanks for video! So helpful!

[@DebbyHunker]

Thanks Claret! I'm a big believer in having the proper tools... I have a ham as well, but mine doesn't have legs. I use it for pressing the zipper seams, which you will see in the next segment... You need curved forms to press curves neatly. I think I might make a little cover for mine now too! Thanks for mentioning that!

[@djeoutdoors]

Your instructions are awesome 👏 Love the tips and tricks, so helpful. Thank you, I just subscribed!

[@atiyasperfecttreas]

Thank you soo much this is the bag I was going to make but was searching for a video tut and found none. I'm a visual learner and you explained it well so I'm not afraid to try this one.

[@DebbyHunker]

I hope you find the info you need in my video!

[@atiyasperfecttreas]

Oh yes I did the bit of clipping the vinyl before sewing was genius

[@LeftyOne12]

I love you humor and teaching methods

[@DebbyHunker]

Thank you!

[@etchedinthread]

You're using your quarter inch foot on your machine. But by switching to a zipper foot, you may be able to get closer to your D-ring, if you want. I keep a Viking ankle and the Viking narrow zipper foot for close sewing on a Pfaff. Or you can purchase an adjustable zipper foot with low shank. Thank you for the amazing video!!

[@melaniestdenis9251]

hi debby. love love love your videos. another way to press these wierd shapes....use a straightening iron lol. i use them for pressing my collars and all kinds of things lol

[@tracyswearingen8757]

You rock! Totally enjoyed your tutorials. Your a natural 🙌👊

[@DebbyHunker]

Thanks Tracy!!! 🙌🏼👊🏼

[@lynnehayman8347]

Hi Debby, great video. I know you used vinyl for the lower outer part of the bag and therefore did not interface it, if I was to choose a fabric instead of the vinyl would I interface this please. Many thanks.

[@DebbyHunker]

Hi Lynne! Yes, if you use fabric, ou will need to interface it. You could do it two ways... Either interface each piece separately, or I tread of cutting the top and the bottom interfacing separately, cut two extra lining interfacing pieces, sew the top and bottom fabrics together, top stitch, and then interface the whole thing. Hope that makes sense. Let me know if you have any more questions!

[@sabrinacharette6357]

Hi Debby. Love your tutorials. I'm new to all the handbag sewing but am hooked. Just wondering if you could recommend what type of needle I should use if I am going to try my hand at vinyl. Not sure if my machine will co-operate. Love you hacks as well!

[@DebbyHunker]

Hi Sabrina! Welcome to the wonderful world of handbags! You’re going to have a lot of fun! You really don’t need a special needle for vinyl. I am having really good luck with 100/16 topstitch needles. They are a little heavier, and they have a larger eye for the thread. I’m not sure why I like them so much, but I just do. They work for me. I have a great Facebook group called Friends of Debby Hunker too! Lots of great info there, and lots of wonderful ladies to help answer questions! facebook.com/groups/friendsofdebbyhunker/

[@znycelondon5313]

Yes🌹 Really enjoyed this first part. 🌹

[@sewTeri]

Debbie, where do you get the purple pen that you use to trace around the patterns and the cost please, I love your videos. I noticed that you got the TL2010q. I got it last month. I also love, love this machine

[@DebbyHunker]

I bought my purple pens from AliExpress. I bought them in bulk (50) at that time and so they were less than $1 each. I’ve paid $6 for brand name ones that have lasted a fraction of the amount of time these ones have lasted. Oh yes, I love my 2010!!!

[@princess-sofyiamandy9958]

Hi Debby gr8 Tutorial thanks can u please tell me the size of your swivel hook/lobster clasp and d ring and which one do U use and also where can I buy them plz! Thankssss a lot

[@DebbyHunker]

I like to use 1/2” d-rings. I like the smaller size of them. The swivel clasp size that I have been using is 3/4”. I buy my hardware from Emmalinebags.com

[@EMERMADAIDAN]

Love your video! What do you find is a good stitch length to use when you are top stitching? I would love my top stitching to pop like yours. Thanks!

[@DebbyHunker]

Play around a little, 3.5-4 is what I use mostly. Also, getting a heavier thread will certainly make your topstitching more noticeable. In a domestic machine, using a 100/16 topstitch needle with an upholstery weight thread will show more than regular thread. I use Tex 70 bonded nylon in my Juki TL2010Q.

[@PrincessAndMonkey]

I love how you did the strap! Never seen that before. Can you tell me what weight and type of thread how used for the edging of the vinyl layer? It almost looks as thick as Perle.

[@DebbyHunker]

I used Tex 90 bonded nylon thread. I buy it through my local upholstery wholesaler.

[@marybowers789]

I could not find the pattern 🙃 you do a good job with your videos thank you 😊

[@cjchacha1]

bluecallapatterns.com/products/new-the-clematis-wristlet-free-pdf-sewing-pattern

[@stephanniemetz3610]

Sew fun! I may have to make this for myself.

[@sharonarmstrong4578]

Hi Debby Thank you for making this video, I haven't finished watching but I am sewing one at the same time and your information is so clear. I find a lot of videos short cut a lot but you showing every step is really helpful. A couple of questions though and I apologise if you have stated it somewhere, What type of sewing machine needles and thread do you recommend? And also what is the brand of your machine.? I am up to top stitching the exterior where you join the top and bottom piece together and am finding my machine is not being nice and is not feeding my vinyl through evenly. I did change to a Teflon foot, which did help a bit but I have ended up with a lot of little stitches bunched up. I notice you have an industrial machine for the topstitching (which I don't and wish I did) and it sews through so nicely. What length stitch did you use? I am off now to continue on with the lining and watch the rest of you video. Cheers from Australia.

[@DebbyHunker]

Hi Sharon! If you would like, please come join us in my Group... facebook.com/groups/257918111347055/ Thank you for your kind words! I'm glad you're finding my videos helpful! My domestic machine is a Pfaff Creative 3.0. One of the nice features of Pfaff is IDT, which is their integrated dual feed technology. There is a little walking type foot behind the presser foot that pulls the fabric from the top while the feed dogs feed from the bottom... When you sew your vinyl, try changing your stitch length to 3 or even 3.5 and see if that helps. Sometimes you need to help the sticky materials through a little... I'm just using a Schmetz 90/14 needle. I was using regular polyester thread when I was top stitching with my domestic, but you could bump up the topstitching thread and use a 100 needle if you would like your stitching to show up more. On my industrial, I use 4.5 as my stitch length. If your bunched up stitches are at the beginning of your seam, try using a leader first. If you don't know what that is, it's a scrap of fabric that you start to sew on, then continue to your project seam. It gives you something to pull gently on to get your seam started until your feed dogs can do the work.

[@sharonarmstrong4578]

Some great information... off to join and look forward to your further videos. Onto the zipper

[@dianeduncan5814]

Hi Debby, great tutorial :D i have never sewn with vinyl/leather i only have a Janome 6600P ( it has a walking foot) would i be able to sew the vinyl (or very lightweight leather) with this machine and maybe a leather or microtex needle? thanks xo

[@DebbyHunker]

The only way to know is to try! I don’t think you’ll have much problems, but if you want to make sure, do some testing with scraps. Duplicate the thickness you’ll be using and give it a go!

[@dianeduncan5814]

Thanks lovey :)

[@TERRIDONEY]

Thank you Debby!

[@sabrinacharette6357]

Found your Facebook page already, great site! If I was looking for a good used industrial machine which would you recommend? Also where do you find you fabulous fabrics and vinyls? Is there an online store somewhere? I only have a Fabricland store nearby however when I get a chance I am close to a Niagara Falls and Buffalo New York so the Hobby Lobby and Joanns are much better. Thanks for all you help for us newbies! 😁

[@DebbyHunker]

I would love to recommend a machine for you, but I honestly don’t have a lot of knowledge in that area. I know I’m really happy with my Titan. If you find something that you would like an opinion on, that’s a great question to ask in my group. You will get helpful opinions there. As for my vinyl and fabrics, well, I’m really limited on my selection... Fabricland and Marshall Fabrics are my choices. I’m just really good at scrounging I guess, LOL... A new bag making friend of mine has a condo in Toronto and we’re talking about taking a little trip to the fabric district out there.

[@annasinger741]

Thanks for this video! Wanted to ask why you left space between the two pattern pieces when cutting out the exterior and lining. I'm just getting started on mine.

[@DebbyHunker]

The only reason it's there is to make it easier to fold for storage. It's the same size as the original.

[@atlladyleo1]

@@DebbyHunker so.... you did trim the original pattern pieces a little, then added the tape?

[@DebbyHunker]

Yes, that’s right. I trimmed each piece 1/8” and left a 1/4” space

[@sharonarmstrong4578]

Hi Debby I notice on your vinyl accent piece pattern you have a clear gap in the middle. Did you trim a bit from the original pattern piece to be able to add this clear piece in? Because that left piece looks like it is cut normal size (has fold written on it)

[@jobutcher1093]

Hi, I'm just making this and I was wondering why you left a gap between the pieces? I know they are supposed to be cut on the fold of the fabric, so I'm not sure why there's that gap.

[@bettymendoza370]

I just made a order from you .thanks

[@janetgolay5629]

It looks like you may have enlarged the pattern just a bit at the fold line, did you? Great video! Thanks.

[@DebbyHunker]

No, actually I just trimmed the pattern pieces back 1/8" and the space is 1/4"... I just did that so it folds easier into my envelopes... 😂

[@2847Katie]

Why did you trim back 1/8 inch?

[@wmyoung1000]

are you enlarging you pattern? i dont see where you made them, you have a gap inbetween pieced?

[@sobeidacastro2339]

Pretty thanks

[@znycelondon5313]

One question.... I notice on your pattern pieces it states.....place on fold. Could you please clarify as I see you have a space in between your taped pattern pieces. I want to make sure I do it correctly.Thank you.

[@Woodsie.]

Good question. Did you ever get an answer to this question?

[@znycelondon5313]

No....did not!

[@znycelondon5313]

Maybe it was not important as other questions posted 🤔

[@tlennon53t]

I notice there is a space you put between pattern pieces- is that 1/2 “ ?

[@sharonarmstrong4578]

When sewing the slip pocket onto the lining, what is the purpose of sewing in an inch along the top?

[@DebbyHunker]

I think it's so that the stress on the side seam from putting things in and taking things out is spread over a bigger area... I'm speculating, but I think that's why... You can choose a shorter length if you want...

[@sharonarmstrong4578]

Thank you Debby, that makes total sense.....

[@eyeonart6865]

Please where did you get the fabric with the art stuff on it?

[@sherrymcneal476]

Debbie, thank you for this video. I am excited to start my first clematis bag.. can you explain to me the gap in your pattern piece and how much gap to leave if not cutting on the fold..

[@DebbyHunker]

It’s just a gap to make it easier to fold the pattern piece for storage. It’s the original size if you print two pieces and tape them together.

[@sherrymcneal476]

Debby Hunker ok great thank you for clarifying 🤗

[@shelleygensler985]

What size tailors ham do you recommend?

[@eszterszocs4756]

Nagyon szeretném elkésziteni ,de nem találom a mintát

[@jenniferc8902]

Hi Debby, what fusable fleece du you use ? Thanks !

[@DebbyHunker]

Hi! I have been using HeatNBond fleece... I’m not very happy with it though and will be looking for a better alternative... I find it’s nearly impossible to tell which is the glue side and I feel it takes way too much time and effort to get it to fuse.

[@cutflower36]

hi, is the bottom of the pattern piece shorter than the top piece? mine is a little off

[@DebbyHunker]

If you clip the edge like I show in the video, you will probably find that as it “opens” against the edge, it fits better.

[@cutflower36]

Debby thanks for the answer, which interfacing did you use? I got the pellon SF101, bt I think it seems thin.

[@silverredfern]

I noticed on your pattern you have a space where your pattern is pieced together. is there a reason?

[@DebbyHunker]

I just put that in there to make it easier to fold my pieces and put them into an envelope. It's the exact same size as the original pattern.

[@silverredfern]

Debby Hunker lol! I thought wow, I love it! I'm going to remember that for my patterns. They can be hard to store.

[@kiuakakirstine8257]

I also store my patterns in envelopes. I punch holes on one side a put them in a binder. I draw a little doddle on the envelope, so I know what it is. I also staple a fabricpiece on the envelope to know that sort of material I used for the given pattern. (Hope this makes sence. English isn't my first language, so there might be some typos and gramma-mistakes... 😂)

[@janetmcadamsbailey1874]

why did you leave the space between the two pattern pieces

[@joannalawrence8790]

She does this so she can fold the laminated pattern.

[@purserverancehandcrafted5297]

Whar type of industrial machine you use. Sewed through vinyl like butter.

[@DebbyHunker]

My machine is a Titan 650BL. It's a combination feed... walking foot and needle feed

[@laurenwilson6870]

What industrial sewing machine do you use?

[@DebbyHunker]

In this video (nearly 5 years ago) I was using a Titan TN650BL, but I now use a Titan 1541S Doodabug Edition.

[@laurenwilson6870]

@@DebbyHunker awesome thank you I’ve always wanted one been sewing since I was 6

[@lucypease8547]

How do I print the clematis pattern

[@DebbyHunker]

Use my link to the Blue Calla website, download the free pattern, print from the download. 😊

[@lucypease8547]

Debby Hunker blue calla

[@DebbyHunker]

bluecallapatterns.com/collections/sewing-patterns/products/new-the-clematis-wristlet-free-pdf-sewing-pattern?aff=6

[@duchermariefrance5855]

C